WAGGA WAGGA NSW
DAY 17
REST DAY
A day about town, taking care of general trivialities and lazing in the park.
I have to confess some disappointment at how few touring cyclists I’ve actually come across to this point.
Two.
That’s how many.
And this was over 2 weeks ago at Winmalee in the Blue Mountains.
Even then they were going the other way.
I hear so many adventurous tales of bike riders all over the wide brown land, so it does seem a little strange to be approaching 1000 km of my journey through a well populated area of Australia and to have only come across 2 cyclists going the other way.
And it’s not even summer or winter.
Or perhaps Sydney to Adelaide just isn’t extreme enough for the hardcorers any longer??
Anyway, I guess this all serves me better to carve my own path….
I’ll be hanging about in Wagga for 2 days. I feel as though I could push on tomorrow, but since I’ve paid my camp site up and they won’t give me a refund for the 3rd night, I might as well stay.
Besides, I’ve made friends with my neighbours.
Got invited around for dinner and everything tonight.
Sandy cooked up some Bolognaise and we washed it down with a beer and some evil Goon*.
*Goon is cheap cask wine – the most famous Aussie brand is Coolabah. By this theory, you can get absolutely wrecked for about $7 and act like a complete Goon etc, etc………
Well, there was none of this really.
Everything remained very polite as Sandy and his sidekick B.J are working and looking for work respectively in Wagga, so this amounted to an early start for both of them.
There was the usual banter campfire banter about the state of the world and the meaning of life and aside from said Goon, there were no particular substances involved so discussion remained in general, silliness-free……
Monday, April 14, 2008
Sunday, April 13, 2008
WAGGA WAGGA NSW
DAY 16
YOUNG – WAGGA WAGGA
158.12 km
Total Time – 07.00 – 17.00 (10h)
Time on Bike – 7h 35m 51s
Max. speed – 65.5 km/h
Av. Speed – 20.8 km/h
Today was BT. Bloody Terrific.
First 150 day of the trip. Tired but satisfied.
Spinifex, millions of locusts, turtles, catheads, curious motorists.
I made friends with them all along the way.
Predicted rain did not eventuate despite an overnight soaking in Young.
School holidays however did eventuate and 7 am along the Olympic Highway out of Young was Sunday morning rush hour.
It took me about an hour to figure it out - but there were simply too many kiddies waving at me out of the back of car windows.
Perhaps they were just off to church…..
There was some extended climbing out of Young first thing, followed by some more serious climbing south of Cootamundra.
And once the terrain levelled out, the headwind kicked in for the final 20 km into Junee.
I’m not complaining – or maybe I am – it just gets a little frustrating when you’re grinding uphill at 7 km/h for an hour at a time, knowing there is another 7, 8, 9 hours in front of you.
Anyway, enough of this.
There were bountiful flat and downhill runs to keep me sufficiently pleased during the day and the average speed hovering above 20 km/h for majority.
Any average speed above 20 km/h is indeed fair travelling and I recognise this.
I just enjoy whingeing every now and then.
Pulling into Junee around 2 pm, surrounded by beautifully kept 19th century buildings throughout the town square (Junee train station is especially conspicuous), I could have easily stayed.
110 kilometres were already registered and with an uncomfortable headwind likely to accompany me into Wagga Wagga, why not just call it a day?
With only 40 km to cover for my final destination, I just knew I had it in me.
So down with a chicken burger and chocolate milkshake (fine nutrition for the road, people) in Junee and off into the afternoon.
And it wasn’t nearly as bad as expected.
My friendly headwind seemed to diminish the further I travelled and aside from a 5 km section south of Wallacetown rest stop, I was barrelling along at 30 km/h + for the most part.
The final gripe for the day was on the approaches to Wagga Wagga - the 7 km to go sign corresponded well with my own computer measurements and there was only spitting distance to go.
To my dismay, another 2 km down the way, a new sign presented, informing me of 9 km to Wagga.
More bad language, but the facts were a magical extra 4 kilometres had appeared from nowhere - with 149 already on the clock and just a small dose of fatigue, I wasn’t seeing the funny side of it.
I pedalled onwards as it seemed pointless sleeping beneath a highway overpass for the night.
On the stroke of 5 pm I reached my resting place in Wagga and pitched a tent not long after.
DAY 16
YOUNG – WAGGA WAGGA
158.12 km
Total Time – 07.00 – 17.00 (10h)
Time on Bike – 7h 35m 51s
Max. speed – 65.5 km/h
Av. Speed – 20.8 km/h
Today was BT. Bloody Terrific.
First 150 day of the trip. Tired but satisfied.
Spinifex, millions of locusts, turtles, catheads, curious motorists.
I made friends with them all along the way.
Predicted rain did not eventuate despite an overnight soaking in Young.
School holidays however did eventuate and 7 am along the Olympic Highway out of Young was Sunday morning rush hour.
It took me about an hour to figure it out - but there were simply too many kiddies waving at me out of the back of car windows.
Perhaps they were just off to church…..
There was some extended climbing out of Young first thing, followed by some more serious climbing south of Cootamundra.
And once the terrain levelled out, the headwind kicked in for the final 20 km into Junee.
I’m not complaining – or maybe I am – it just gets a little frustrating when you’re grinding uphill at 7 km/h for an hour at a time, knowing there is another 7, 8, 9 hours in front of you.
Anyway, enough of this.
There were bountiful flat and downhill runs to keep me sufficiently pleased during the day and the average speed hovering above 20 km/h for majority.
Any average speed above 20 km/h is indeed fair travelling and I recognise this.
I just enjoy whingeing every now and then.
Pulling into Junee around 2 pm, surrounded by beautifully kept 19th century buildings throughout the town square (Junee train station is especially conspicuous), I could have easily stayed.
110 kilometres were already registered and with an uncomfortable headwind likely to accompany me into Wagga Wagga, why not just call it a day?
With only 40 km to cover for my final destination, I just knew I had it in me.
So down with a chicken burger and chocolate milkshake (fine nutrition for the road, people) in Junee and off into the afternoon.
And it wasn’t nearly as bad as expected.
My friendly headwind seemed to diminish the further I travelled and aside from a 5 km section south of Wallacetown rest stop, I was barrelling along at 30 km/h + for the most part.
The final gripe for the day was on the approaches to Wagga Wagga - the 7 km to go sign corresponded well with my own computer measurements and there was only spitting distance to go.
To my dismay, another 2 km down the way, a new sign presented, informing me of 9 km to Wagga.
More bad language, but the facts were a magical extra 4 kilometres had appeared from nowhere - with 149 already on the clock and just a small dose of fatigue, I wasn’t seeing the funny side of it.
I pedalled onwards as it seemed pointless sleeping beneath a highway overpass for the night.
On the stroke of 5 pm I reached my resting place in Wagga and pitched a tent not long after.
YOUNG NSW
DAY 15
Lambing Flat Festival 2008.
Young was once known as Lambing Flat when gold was gold, soap was on not a rope and bushrangers were very scary men.
The annual LFF is day of fairy floss stalls, pony rides, vintage cars, combustion engines, model trains, steak sandwiches and jumping castles.
There are also a number of re-enactments – everything from the trial of 1860’s bad boy, Frank Gardiner to daily goings-on in a colonial classroom.
Some strange dancing held my attention for some time – lots of tinkling bells and hanky waving. I didn’t quite understand, but went with it for the while.
It was a most-of-the-day affair – I didn’t mind in the least really as it’s not something I’d do every weekend.
I sensed it was time to leave though, when I experienced a flashback to a previous existence and John Williamson was my favourite artist…..
Tomorrow, it is predicted to rain.
2 weeks on the road and not a single wet drop.
I must be due.
My schedule tomorrow is to make it through to Wagga Wagga.
If I make it as far, it will be a big day in the rain - but this is the goal.
DAY 15
Lambing Flat Festival 2008.
Young was once known as Lambing Flat when gold was gold, soap was on not a rope and bushrangers were very scary men.
The annual LFF is day of fairy floss stalls, pony rides, vintage cars, combustion engines, model trains, steak sandwiches and jumping castles.
There are also a number of re-enactments – everything from the trial of 1860’s bad boy, Frank Gardiner to daily goings-on in a colonial classroom.
Some strange dancing held my attention for some time – lots of tinkling bells and hanky waving. I didn’t quite understand, but went with it for the while.
It was a most-of-the-day affair – I didn’t mind in the least really as it’s not something I’d do every weekend.
I sensed it was time to leave though, when I experienced a flashback to a previous existence and John Williamson was my favourite artist…..
Tomorrow, it is predicted to rain.
2 weeks on the road and not a single wet drop.
I must be due.
My schedule tomorrow is to make it through to Wagga Wagga.
If I make it as far, it will be a big day in the rain - but this is the goal.
Friday, April 11, 2008
DAY 14 - YOUNG NSW
YOUNG NSW
DAY 14
COWRA – YOUNG
77.21 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 12.00 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike – 3h 40m 38s
Max. speed – 62.2 km/h
Av. Speed - 21 km/h
Nice ride today.
Good news also today - the on-board computer is back in action.
No flats, good stats and a happy camp all around.
And judging by those stats, things are beginning to flatten out – terrain wise, that is.
I’m heading south for the first time on this trip.
Cowra has marked the turning point – the end of 10 days of exploring Central West NSW and the beginning of exploring an area known as the Riverina.
The Riverina is so named because of the junction of 2 major river systems – the Murray-Darling and the Murrumbidgee.
This physically takes place a bit further on, but for now I have arrived in the “Cherry Capital of the World”, or at least of Australia, Young.
I’ll be here for a couple of days, although probably won’t be eating cherries.
I'm not a huge fan, even at Christmas time - although there are also lots of plums, prunes and other treats that will surely grab my fancy.
Tomorrow is the Lambing Flats festival in Carrington Park, so will be reporting on this next posting.
It so happens that Young hosts only 2 festivals per year and I’ve arrived in town for one of them.
“Something for everyone…” the posters about town guarantee.
We shall see.
DAY 14
COWRA – YOUNG
77.21 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 12.00 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike – 3h 40m 38s
Max. speed – 62.2 km/h
Av. Speed - 21 km/h
Nice ride today.
Good news also today - the on-board computer is back in action.
No flats, good stats and a happy camp all around.
And judging by those stats, things are beginning to flatten out – terrain wise, that is.
I’m heading south for the first time on this trip.
Cowra has marked the turning point – the end of 10 days of exploring Central West NSW and the beginning of exploring an area known as the Riverina.
The Riverina is so named because of the junction of 2 major river systems – the Murray-Darling and the Murrumbidgee.
This physically takes place a bit further on, but for now I have arrived in the “Cherry Capital of the World”, or at least of Australia, Young.
I’ll be here for a couple of days, although probably won’t be eating cherries.
I'm not a huge fan, even at Christmas time - although there are also lots of plums, prunes and other treats that will surely grab my fancy.
Tomorrow is the Lambing Flats festival in Carrington Park, so will be reporting on this next posting.
It so happens that Young hosts only 2 festivals per year and I’ve arrived in town for one of them.
“Something for everyone…” the posters about town guarantee.
We shall see.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
DAY 13 - COWRA NSW
COWRA NSW
DAY 13
With the trike in for an overnight workshop, a day around Cowra was all mine.
Firstly, back to the original, original plan.
This was due to be a stay in nearby Woodstock in what sold itself as a “Backpacker Farmstay” – with a range of accommodation from tent sites right through to $150 per night honeymoon suites.
A tent site would have suited me just fine, however after several attempts to make contact, it would seem that “Riverslea Station” has been removed from the accommodation world map, so it was never meant to be.
And here I am in Cowra.
I was probably always going to come here – I just didn’t get to experience the true splendour of Riverslea – I am genuinely disappointed however, life goes on.
After a grand total of 4 tyre punctures yesterday (yes, there was another since the last writing), today was set to be a mix of sightseeing and problem-solving.
Sightseeing was easily my first choice, so up out of the tent and a slow walk up the hill to Cowra’s famous Japanese Gardens.
At this point, a short history lesson may be appropriate before launching a critique of the gardens.
Several thousand foreign soldiers were held here in Cowra during World War 2 as POW’s.
In August 1944, about 1000 of the Japanese contingent staged an uprising in the middle of the night that became known as the “Cowra Breakout”.
The motivation behind this was the Bushido philosophy of engagement, whereby it was much more noble to be slain in battle than perish as a nameless soldier at the enemy’s hands – the Japanese were very much driven by this, hence why they did what they did.
Several hundred Japanese and some Australians were killed in the Breakout.
There is a permanent memorial and the POW Camp still remains in Cowra.
Not until the 1970’s, had memories of the past faded sufficiently for work to begin on the nearby Japanese Gardens – partly as a tribute to what had gone before, but also as a symbol of more peaceful relations after WW2.
A top-flight Japanese garden architect, Mr Nakajima was commissioned and the gardens were completed in several stages over a 10 year period 1976 – 86.
These days a $10 entry fee gains access to the gardens and cultural centre. You can also waste some money in the souvenir shop or take time to fine dine in the restaurant next door.
I settled for the gardens and cultural centre for today – about an hour snapping some photos outside and afterwards, I found the cultural centre very well presented and quite worthwhile.
I didn’t sign the visitor’s book, but plodded back down the hill for some internet time and a session with my punctured tubes,
The problem with Cathead punctures (which are the ones that I have – please see yesterday’s blog) are that they are so fine, you can’t even see them.
They bubble in water, but after this, you’re lost.
Several attempts and some eye-strain later, 4 tubes were patched and I dedicated the next hour or so to some quality hammock time.
Harry at the sometime bike shop ran some necessary repairs for me overnight and with a full quota of tubes, I am now ready for the Cathead mission to Young tomorrow......
DAY 13
With the trike in for an overnight workshop, a day around Cowra was all mine.
Firstly, back to the original, original plan.
This was due to be a stay in nearby Woodstock in what sold itself as a “Backpacker Farmstay” – with a range of accommodation from tent sites right through to $150 per night honeymoon suites.
A tent site would have suited me just fine, however after several attempts to make contact, it would seem that “Riverslea Station” has been removed from the accommodation world map, so it was never meant to be.
And here I am in Cowra.
I was probably always going to come here – I just didn’t get to experience the true splendour of Riverslea – I am genuinely disappointed however, life goes on.
After a grand total of 4 tyre punctures yesterday (yes, there was another since the last writing), today was set to be a mix of sightseeing and problem-solving.
Sightseeing was easily my first choice, so up out of the tent and a slow walk up the hill to Cowra’s famous Japanese Gardens.
At this point, a short history lesson may be appropriate before launching a critique of the gardens.
Several thousand foreign soldiers were held here in Cowra during World War 2 as POW’s.
In August 1944, about 1000 of the Japanese contingent staged an uprising in the middle of the night that became known as the “Cowra Breakout”.
The motivation behind this was the Bushido philosophy of engagement, whereby it was much more noble to be slain in battle than perish as a nameless soldier at the enemy’s hands – the Japanese were very much driven by this, hence why they did what they did.
Several hundred Japanese and some Australians were killed in the Breakout.
There is a permanent memorial and the POW Camp still remains in Cowra.
Not until the 1970’s, had memories of the past faded sufficiently for work to begin on the nearby Japanese Gardens – partly as a tribute to what had gone before, but also as a symbol of more peaceful relations after WW2.
A top-flight Japanese garden architect, Mr Nakajima was commissioned and the gardens were completed in several stages over a 10 year period 1976 – 86.
These days a $10 entry fee gains access to the gardens and cultural centre. You can also waste some money in the souvenir shop or take time to fine dine in the restaurant next door.
I settled for the gardens and cultural centre for today – about an hour snapping some photos outside and afterwards, I found the cultural centre very well presented and quite worthwhile.
I didn’t sign the visitor’s book, but plodded back down the hill for some internet time and a session with my punctured tubes,
The problem with Cathead punctures (which are the ones that I have – please see yesterday’s blog) are that they are so fine, you can’t even see them.
They bubble in water, but after this, you’re lost.
Several attempts and some eye-strain later, 4 tubes were patched and I dedicated the next hour or so to some quality hammock time.
Harry at the sometime bike shop ran some necessary repairs for me overnight and with a full quota of tubes, I am now ready for the Cathead mission to Young tomorrow......
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
DAY 12 - COWRA NSW
COWRA NSW
DAY 12
CANOWINDRA - COWRA
35 km (approx.)
Total Time – 08.00 – 11.15 (3h 15m)
Time on Bike – 1h 55m 38s
Max. speed – 70 km/h (approx.)
Av. Speed - ???
35km isn’t far really.
It’s not.
But here’s how to make it a challenge:
- First pick a route that includes 20 km of protracted uphill climbing.
- Second, on a bike whose makeshift rear derailleur has made its shift and does not behave well at all on 20 km of protracted uphill climbing.
- Thirdly, get 3 flat tyres in the space of 500 meters.
- Fourthly, well….it wasn’t really an effort but I managed to turn a 90 minute ride into a 3.25 hour ordeal. Easy as this.
Still, I got to Cowra all in good time – just not as early as planned.
Now, back to these flat tyres – I need to elaborate on this, as it is far too uncanny to be true.
In over 600 km of riding so far, there hasn’t been a single flat tyre. Not one. This is not a bad record at all. Another 600 km without a flat would be even greater, but not to complain so far.
Sure enough, about 12 km from Cowra the right trailer tyre was first to blow.
Fair enough and 25 minutes later, with problem fixed, onwards to Cowra.
Not even 500 metres hence, stereo hissing from front and rear had me hopping mad.
Very naughty words indeed, but the biggest tantrum ever was not going to get me further towards Cowra.
Double trouble – this time the OTHER trailer tyre AND the left front trike tyre together.
It’s almost a shame all did not go down together in 3-part harmony.
Another 45 minutes and with just a little carry-on, I chose to make a prayer at this time.
It must have worked, as I was in Cowra 30 minutes later.
Now, why exactly had this happened?
Well, I don’t really know, but there some ugly little critters called “Catheads” and they are everywhere in this part of the world.
They don’t breathe, but they are 3-pronged spurs (in the shape of a cat’s head) – something like a noxious weed but it does stand to reason that these are the things that pierced my tyres so.
Why it happened in the space of 500 meters?
I think this part is just bad luck…..
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
DAY 11 - CANOWINDRA NSW
CANOWINDRA NSW
DAY 11
FORBES - CANOWINDRA
85 km (approx.)
Total Time – 07.30 – 13.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 38m 29s
Max. speed – 60 km/h (approx.)
Av. Speed 18 km/h (approx.)
A change of plans today.
Well, 2 changes actually.
The original, original plan was from Forbes to a place called Woodstock.
I had some very attractive accommodation lined up near Woodstock, around which it may have been possible to spend at least a few days.
In the last few days, perhaps a change of heart – mainly the threat of backtracking – and Cowra firmed as a much more practical option.
Riding over 50km along Lachlan Valley Way this morning, I arrived in a town called Gooloogong by 11am.
LVW is an entirely flat, yet quite monotonous stretch of highway along the banks of the Lachlan River and worse still, working into a strong headwind, Gooloogong was a welcome respite.
Even better is that the town is junction between several other locations, Canowindra being but one.
Sitting in the shade with my Mango Weis bar, I immediately entertained the direct route to Canowindra as the ideal gateway to my getaway in Woodstock.
Only 30 km to Canowindra (as against 40 to Cowra) and the same again to Woodstock – it hardly felt like backtracking.
It was now or never, so I downed the remainder of my Weis bar and turned left.
And a better route it was – a little hillier, but infinitely more interesting and the wind dissipated almost immediately.
Canowindra (that’s Ca-nown-dra, NOT Cano-windra) is a small but beautiful town.
Small, but still big enough for 4 pubs.
In fact, I drank at the Royal Hotel this evening. Not a lot, but I still had a drink – and some food – pizza, to elaborate.
And as the evening wore on, I learned that the bushranger Ben Hall had robbed the Royal Hotel, not once, but 3 times.
Impressive.
This is of course, the same Ben Hall that was killed by the police in Forbes and still lies there.
I aired my theory over the bar as to whether bushrangers were in fact 19th century freedom fighters.
No, was the emphatic response – common thieves at best and generally bad eggs.
Ben Hall was a possible exception. He was at least a landowner who got pissed off when the police locked him up for a month for something or other and by the time he got out, the local bob had taken off with his wife.
From then on, it was Ben versus the rest.
Sadly, the rest won and Ben was only 27.
DAY 11
FORBES - CANOWINDRA
85 km (approx.)
Total Time – 07.30 – 13.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 38m 29s
Max. speed – 60 km/h (approx.)
Av. Speed 18 km/h (approx.)
A change of plans today.
Well, 2 changes actually.
The original, original plan was from Forbes to a place called Woodstock.
I had some very attractive accommodation lined up near Woodstock, around which it may have been possible to spend at least a few days.
In the last few days, perhaps a change of heart – mainly the threat of backtracking – and Cowra firmed as a much more practical option.
Riding over 50km along Lachlan Valley Way this morning, I arrived in a town called Gooloogong by 11am.
LVW is an entirely flat, yet quite monotonous stretch of highway along the banks of the Lachlan River and worse still, working into a strong headwind, Gooloogong was a welcome respite.
Even better is that the town is junction between several other locations, Canowindra being but one.
Sitting in the shade with my Mango Weis bar, I immediately entertained the direct route to Canowindra as the ideal gateway to my getaway in Woodstock.
Only 30 km to Canowindra (as against 40 to Cowra) and the same again to Woodstock – it hardly felt like backtracking.
It was now or never, so I downed the remainder of my Weis bar and turned left.
And a better route it was – a little hillier, but infinitely more interesting and the wind dissipated almost immediately.
Canowindra (that’s Ca-nown-dra, NOT Cano-windra) is a small but beautiful town.
Small, but still big enough for 4 pubs.
In fact, I drank at the Royal Hotel this evening. Not a lot, but I still had a drink – and some food – pizza, to elaborate.
And as the evening wore on, I learned that the bushranger Ben Hall had robbed the Royal Hotel, not once, but 3 times.
Impressive.
This is of course, the same Ben Hall that was killed by the police in Forbes and still lies there.
I aired my theory over the bar as to whether bushrangers were in fact 19th century freedom fighters.
No, was the emphatic response – common thieves at best and generally bad eggs.
Ben Hall was a possible exception. He was at least a landowner who got pissed off when the police locked him up for a month for something or other and by the time he got out, the local bob had taken off with his wife.
From then on, it was Ben versus the rest.
Sadly, the rest won and Ben was only 27.
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