DAY 87 - PORT GERMEIN SA

PORT GERMEIN SA

DAY 87

CRYSTAL BROOK – PORT GERMEIN

87.24 km

Total Time: 09.00 – 16.30 (7h 30m)

Time on Bike: 5h 05m 45s

Max. Speed: 62.8 km/h

Av. Speed: 17.1 km/h


Laura, Stone Hut Bakery, Port Germein Gorge.

These were the experiences that made the day.

And genuine little cracker of a day it was.

Some nasty old climbing first up this morning but since I was basically taking a shortcut into heart of the Southern Flinders, I can say no more.

I chose to take the hills on their value and preferred instead to enjoy the wonderful Flinders vistas spreading out before me on all sides.

These are incredibly beautiful and ancient landscapes and it gets even better further on.

I could have been Frodo Baggins on the road to Minas Tirith this morning – well actually more like Strider on a trike – I kind of like that brooding omniscient wisdom he exudes…..

As a ride, the back run into Laura was probably the day’s highlight – even better than my afternoon foray down Port Germein Gorge, so this is a big call.

A slightly extended stop in the town of Laura (second time on this trip), then set things up for lunchtime in Stone Hut.

I would suggest there is one single reason to visit Stone Hut.

This is the same reason why most from South Australia and beyond visit and why the town has earned its rightful place on the tourist radar.

It is the Old Bakery.

For all the bakeries from coast to coast, the only one that can make a staunch claim for actually having the best pies in the Universe is Stone Hut.

I even have a fridge magnet now to prove it.

There are various other nice thingies – slices, ciders, wines, conserves etc., but the pies are really the shit.

Sadly, many of life’s little goodies don’t come for free and OBSH is not exempt.

A full-blooded Stone Hut experience doesn’t allow anyone to leave without shedding at least $20.

Outback pies get just about everyone in – Kangaroo, Ox, Goat, Camel and Crocodile are the big sellers and if there isn’t a hot one for lunch, you can raid the fridge and take one for dinner.

My personal agenda was a Spinach/Fetta number from the heater and a thick oozing Caramel Tart for the road.

With no Hot Outback options on offer, I just had to take a Cold Crocodile for some future hour.

Indeed, $20 later I decided to pedal onwards, entirely guilt-free and in high anticipation of the upcoming Port Germein Gorge.

PGG turnoff is another 25 km or so along B82 from Stone Hut, through the town of Wirrabara and up the other side of a steepish pinch.

A 27 kilometre run down the Gorge follows – the main section is a winding, narrow and highly uneven 10 km runaway.

My speed was well up for the whole deal, but my body was the victim.

This was definitely the one ride that may have given me misgivings about owning a non-suspended tricycle.

I’m generally not a small fellow but I was bouncing around like a wee little baby all the way down.

Making a few odd noises along the way as well.

I was really trying my hardest to express joy in the moment but most of it was actually the wind being thrashed out of me over humps, bumps, tree roots and other butchered surfaces at around 60 km/h.

At speed, it all came and went too quickly.

As much as I lapped up a massive rollaway through the some of the oldest and deepest crevices of the Southern Flinders, the road surface really did suck and the dull light conditions once again did not offer things at their best.

I set down in Port Germein by 4.30 pm and the day had surely earned its stripes.

By choice, my Crocodile Pie has been postponed until Port Augusta tomorrow and instead I elected for what became a fairly inadequate affair at the local pub.

I guess this means that Croc is gonna taste even better tomorrow night.