SWAN HILL VIC
DAY 31
KERANG – SWAN HILL
67.67 km
Total Time – 08.10 – 12.50 (4h 40m)
Time on Bike – 3h 49m 01s
Max. speed – 29.3 km/h
Av. Speed – 17.7 km/h
67.67 km today – 20 km of grinding uphill and a cold, gusting cross wind included for no extra cost.
The wind entirely numbed the left-hand side of my body for most of the morning – a 90° dog leg at one point actually gave me about 5 km of tail – but from every turn in the road thereafter, I was consistently bent back in towards it.
Still, I managed a respectable 17 km/h + in the conditions and was set up in Swan Hill by lunchtime.
There is only 600 km to cover into Adelaide now.
I’ll take a day in town tomorrow and then travel towards Robinvale by Wednesday.
Mildura should be my destination over the weekend, which will leave only a 3 - 4 day run into Adelaide.
Part of my journey today took me through what is the equivalent of Victoria’s lakes district.
There are several dozen lakes situated in close proximity between Kerang and Swan Hill and I can only presume that they are quite popular with holiday makers and tourists alike.
And if the very tragic Lake Boga is any example, I can only presume that at least some of these lakes have also been very popular with the drought.
Having previously seen National Geographic images and similar of the Aral Sea in Kazakhstan and now having seen Lake Boga today, there is some sort of scary scenario that is developing around the world that should not be ignored.
Lake Boga has not seen any water for what I can only imagine is a number of years.
It is an expanse of perhaps 8 kilometres in all directions and you can literally drive a car across it.
In fact, given the tyre tracks I saw this morning, somebody already has.
The shopping village is a ghost town; the caravan park is closed; the yacht club is awaiting demolition; the town’s seaplane symbol really needs to be changed to something else – it is difficult to imagine that this lake will ever hold water again.
Why nature has decided to remove the bathplug on this formerly abundant ecosystem, I cannot exactly understand.
But to actually descend over the rise into Lake Boga and witness such a wide vista of roasted black clay - only to realise that it is supposed to be full of water – is not something I personally take any comfort from at all.
Monday, April 28, 2008
DAY 30 - KERANG VIC
KERANG VIC
DAY 30
ECHUCA - KERANG
109.15 km
Total Time – 07.45 – 14.45 (7h)
Time on Bike – 5h 38m 48s
Max. speed – 29.9 km/h
Av. Speed – 19.3 km/h
A cold front has come across from the Great Southern Ocean (there is a rather large mass of ice called Antarctica floating in the deep south of this ocean) in the past 24 hours and there have been snowfalls in some higher parts of Victoria.
It has also caused rainfalls across most of the state.
From my selfish perspective, this means that I rode directly into a huge storm front as I was leaving the town of Cohuna at about 1 pm.
It is the only rain that has affected my progress in a month since leaving Sydney.
Not that it affected my progress – I just kept going – and got soaking wet.
For most other people in this part of the world, it means long overdue rainfall – especially for farmers – although most will contend that there will never be enough rain to make this drought any better.
In terms of temperature range, the top today was 15°C and it will the same tomorrow.
There is also a cold wind from the south-west – this was a headwind for most of today, which should become more of a cross breeze as I head northwest tomorrow.
Tonight, I will wear at least 2 pairs of socks when I tuck in as it will get down as low as 3°C.
Because as we all know, when your paddles are cold, then most of the rest of you is as well.
It is an overnight stay only in Kerang, as I plan to push on to Swan Hill at first light.
DAY 30
ECHUCA - KERANG
109.15 km
Total Time – 07.45 – 14.45 (7h)
Time on Bike – 5h 38m 48s
Max. speed – 29.9 km/h
Av. Speed – 19.3 km/h
A cold front has come across from the Great Southern Ocean (there is a rather large mass of ice called Antarctica floating in the deep south of this ocean) in the past 24 hours and there have been snowfalls in some higher parts of Victoria.
It has also caused rainfalls across most of the state.
From my selfish perspective, this means that I rode directly into a huge storm front as I was leaving the town of Cohuna at about 1 pm.
It is the only rain that has affected my progress in a month since leaving Sydney.
Not that it affected my progress – I just kept going – and got soaking wet.
For most other people in this part of the world, it means long overdue rainfall – especially for farmers – although most will contend that there will never be enough rain to make this drought any better.
In terms of temperature range, the top today was 15°C and it will the same tomorrow.
There is also a cold wind from the south-west – this was a headwind for most of today, which should become more of a cross breeze as I head northwest tomorrow.
Tonight, I will wear at least 2 pairs of socks when I tuck in as it will get down as low as 3°C.
Because as we all know, when your paddles are cold, then most of the rest of you is as well.
It is an overnight stay only in Kerang, as I plan to push on to Swan Hill at first light.
DAY 29 - ECHUCA/MOAMA
ECHUCA/MOAMA
DAY 29
Ah yes.
I have decided from today onwards that I wish to reincarnate as a paddle steamer.
There could be worse forms of existence than chugging gently up and down the river all day long, people admiring you, everyone on board relaxed and enjoying the ride, puffing off a bit of steam every so often, tooting your horn just because you can, the sound and feel of a beautifully reconditioned motor rhythmically thumping along at a speed that is neither fast nor slow…..
Today I took a ride upon the P.S Pevensey.
It is the second oldest of the fleet that still operates from the Port of Echuca.
The oldest is the P.S Adelaide, which dates to 1866.
Pevensey dates to 1910 and was made into a movie star during the 1980’s when it headlined as “Philadelphia” in an Aussie TV series called “All the Rivers Run”.
There was an option to take an all day ride with the Adelaide – this included lunch at a nearby wine estate and I guess the rest of the time would have been spent on the river.
As it happened, an hour on the Pevensey was sufficient (and just a little more budget friendly)……
This is not an experience that should be compared with climbing K-2 blindfolded or BASE jumping off the Chrysler Building, however it is something I could easily recommend to anyone.
In fact my Top 5 list of “Things to do in Australia” has now officially received a new entrant.
Don’t ask me for the other 4, but I would say at the very least Melbourne, Noosa, Tasmania and southern coastal NSW would all make the cut…..
With the pungent smell of burning redgum still in my nostrils and the errant hooting of paddle steamers in the night still wringing through my ears, I continue my onwards journey tomorrow.
It has been a wonderful stay in Echuca and the next destination is set to be Kerang.
This afternoon’s weather has taken a downward turn - for the first time on the trip.
A cold front has moved in from the southwest, bringing rains and what I expect will be a gusty headwind tomorrow.
There is something close to 100 km to be covered, which may now be tough going in the conditions.
Next report: Kerang…..
DAY 29
Ah yes.
I have decided from today onwards that I wish to reincarnate as a paddle steamer.
There could be worse forms of existence than chugging gently up and down the river all day long, people admiring you, everyone on board relaxed and enjoying the ride, puffing off a bit of steam every so often, tooting your horn just because you can, the sound and feel of a beautifully reconditioned motor rhythmically thumping along at a speed that is neither fast nor slow…..
Today I took a ride upon the P.S Pevensey.
It is the second oldest of the fleet that still operates from the Port of Echuca.
The oldest is the P.S Adelaide, which dates to 1866.
Pevensey dates to 1910 and was made into a movie star during the 1980’s when it headlined as “Philadelphia” in an Aussie TV series called “All the Rivers Run”.
There was an option to take an all day ride with the Adelaide – this included lunch at a nearby wine estate and I guess the rest of the time would have been spent on the river.
As it happened, an hour on the Pevensey was sufficient (and just a little more budget friendly)……
This is not an experience that should be compared with climbing K-2 blindfolded or BASE jumping off the Chrysler Building, however it is something I could easily recommend to anyone.
In fact my Top 5 list of “Things to do in Australia” has now officially received a new entrant.
Don’t ask me for the other 4, but I would say at the very least Melbourne, Noosa, Tasmania and southern coastal NSW would all make the cut…..
With the pungent smell of burning redgum still in my nostrils and the errant hooting of paddle steamers in the night still wringing through my ears, I continue my onwards journey tomorrow.
It has been a wonderful stay in Echuca and the next destination is set to be Kerang.
This afternoon’s weather has taken a downward turn - for the first time on the trip.
A cold front has moved in from the southwest, bringing rains and what I expect will be a gusty headwind tomorrow.
There is something close to 100 km to be covered, which may now be tough going in the conditions.
Next report: Kerang…..
Friday, April 25, 2008
DAY 28 - ECHUCA/MOAMA
ECHUCA/MOAMA
DAY 28
Sorry - haven't posted for a few days - I'm still alive.
Long days on the road and public holidays don't auger well for internet time.
And just as I had become excited about arriving in Victoria, I have realised that my camp is indeed on the Moama side of the river – and this I am afraid, is still New South Wales.
It’s OK really, as I have been walking back and forth across the border all day long.
Quite fun actually.
It is ANZAC Day 2008.
ANZAC Day is a day of a respect for all Australian and New Zealand citizens who have served their countries in war and other times of nationalistic calling (Cronulla riots excluded).
It is an official Public Holiday in both countries although many establishments (particularly those that serve the tourist trade) do not necessarily respect it.
I have no opinion either way, although my strong feeling is that if our former righteous leader Mr John Howard still had a say, it would become ANZAC month – something akin to a religious festival.
I can just imagine banter around the party room - but first a consultation with wife and confidante Jeanette:
John: “You know darling, everybody knows that Muslims are basically vermin. They are mostly terrorists or troublemakers. But they do have some good ideas in their culture. That one where they fast for a month – Rama….Rama….??”
Jeanette: “I think it’s Ramadan dear….”
John: “Yes that one. Anyway, just imagine if we set aside a similar time for our ANZACS, where everyone could pay respect over a few beers from dawn till dusk. Sit around talking about the war and every young person could be assigned a digger as mentor. That way, the young ones will learn the full range of Australian history – all the way back to 1915!!”
Jeanette: “That’s a wonderful idea, darling. A great vision!”
John: “Thanks dear, though I think I’ll probably have to sneak it up everybody after we win the next election….”
Thankfully for humankind, they didn’t win the next election and ANZAC Day should remain as it is for time to come….
Today has been a rest day – some laundry, some rehydration and a general look about town.
And I have quickly formed the view that Echuca is probably the nicest place I have visited so far on this trip.
The Port of Echuca is the historical quarter and it is not only authentically preserved (complete with dusty main street and original 1860’s Star Hotel), it has also been tastily up-marketed with some fine eateries and other outlets – all housed in the original structures from the period.
Tourism, for what it is worth, can be either a blight or a worthwhile commodity in the history and heritage of a particular place.
My travels around the world have taken me through many interesting and beautiful places and there are not so many places that have survived successfully by remaining frigid to the mass tourism market.
And it is quite sad that this predicament tends to spoil a location rather than enhance it.
On first impressions, Echuca is a rare oyster – one for which tourism is a necessity but also its best friend.
This of course, has been backed up by the effort that has been made to authentically preserve the original heritage of the Port.
The history of the Port is the riverboat trade – where up to 100 paddle steamers worked the Murray River up and down, supplying outlying rural areas with valuables and other goods as required.
Some of these boats still ply the river 140 years on – albeit for touristic joy rides – and they are mostly in immaculate condition.
Tomorrow, it has been decided, is my day to play tourist.
It is not something I particularly embrace, but I would like to believe that my tourist dollar in Echuca is being quite well spent.
DAY 28
Sorry - haven't posted for a few days - I'm still alive.
Long days on the road and public holidays don't auger well for internet time.
And just as I had become excited about arriving in Victoria, I have realised that my camp is indeed on the Moama side of the river – and this I am afraid, is still New South Wales.
It’s OK really, as I have been walking back and forth across the border all day long.
Quite fun actually.
It is ANZAC Day 2008.
ANZAC Day is a day of a respect for all Australian and New Zealand citizens who have served their countries in war and other times of nationalistic calling (Cronulla riots excluded).
It is an official Public Holiday in both countries although many establishments (particularly those that serve the tourist trade) do not necessarily respect it.
I have no opinion either way, although my strong feeling is that if our former righteous leader Mr John Howard still had a say, it would become ANZAC month – something akin to a religious festival.
I can just imagine banter around the party room - but first a consultation with wife and confidante Jeanette:
John: “You know darling, everybody knows that Muslims are basically vermin. They are mostly terrorists or troublemakers. But they do have some good ideas in their culture. That one where they fast for a month – Rama….Rama….??”
Jeanette: “I think it’s Ramadan dear….”
John: “Yes that one. Anyway, just imagine if we set aside a similar time for our ANZACS, where everyone could pay respect over a few beers from dawn till dusk. Sit around talking about the war and every young person could be assigned a digger as mentor. That way, the young ones will learn the full range of Australian history – all the way back to 1915!!”
Jeanette: “That’s a wonderful idea, darling. A great vision!”
John: “Thanks dear, though I think I’ll probably have to sneak it up everybody after we win the next election….”
Thankfully for humankind, they didn’t win the next election and ANZAC Day should remain as it is for time to come….
Today has been a rest day – some laundry, some rehydration and a general look about town.
And I have quickly formed the view that Echuca is probably the nicest place I have visited so far on this trip.
The Port of Echuca is the historical quarter and it is not only authentically preserved (complete with dusty main street and original 1860’s Star Hotel), it has also been tastily up-marketed with some fine eateries and other outlets – all housed in the original structures from the period.
Tourism, for what it is worth, can be either a blight or a worthwhile commodity in the history and heritage of a particular place.
My travels around the world have taken me through many interesting and beautiful places and there are not so many places that have survived successfully by remaining frigid to the mass tourism market.
And it is quite sad that this predicament tends to spoil a location rather than enhance it.
On first impressions, Echuca is a rare oyster – one for which tourism is a necessity but also its best friend.
This of course, has been backed up by the effort that has been made to authentically preserve the original heritage of the Port.
The history of the Port is the riverboat trade – where up to 100 paddle steamers worked the Murray River up and down, supplying outlying rural areas with valuables and other goods as required.
Some of these boats still ply the river 140 years on – albeit for touristic joy rides – and they are mostly in immaculate condition.
Tomorrow, it has been decided, is my day to play tourist.
It is not something I particularly embrace, but I would like to believe that my tourist dollar in Echuca is being quite well spent.
DAY 27 - ECHUCA VIC
ECHUCA VIC
DAY 27
TOCUMWAL - ECHUCA
137.51 km
Total Time – 08.15 – 16.45 (8h 30m)
Time on Bike – 6h 17m 02s
Max. Speed – 34 km/h
Av. Speed – 21.9 km/h
Happy Birthday to me.
Another year of life has passed me by.
36 are now gone and I have commenced my 37th year in the state of Victoria.
To think in another 36 years, I’ll be 72 and then another I’ll be 108….
Anyway, by way of celebration, I rode nearly 140 km today.
Back to back with a 140 day yesterday and I’m quite satisfied.
This sets me back only a day from the Colleambally debacle and am now only 800 km from Adelaide.
My ETA in Adelaide should be no more than 2 weeks.
Not that I’m in a hurry, but it would be good to arrive in under 6 weeks.
There are still some points of interest along the way, which will be revealed in good time.
After 280 kilometres in 33 hours, I’ll be taking a rest day tomorrow.
April 25 is ANZAC Day in Australia (Public Holiday) and without question Echuca is a nice place to be.
I’ve got a great camping spot right on the river and in my own humble opinion, I deserve a short break.
Echuca is in fact part of a twin town set up, with itself on the southern bank of the Murray River and the half-sized Moama on the northern bank.
I may even refer to my location in future as Echuca-Moama - so now everything is clear.
My camp is an exactly central position – under the bridge on the Moama side, but only a 15 minute walk to central Echuca on the other.
The Port of Echuca is quite famous for its paddle-steamers.
My inner Huck Finn is curious enough now to consider a ride down the river tomorrow.
If such an adventure is generally agreeable with my budget, then it may well happen…..
DAY 27
TOCUMWAL - ECHUCA
137.51 km
Total Time – 08.15 – 16.45 (8h 30m)
Time on Bike – 6h 17m 02s
Max. Speed – 34 km/h
Av. Speed – 21.9 km/h
Happy Birthday to me.
Another year of life has passed me by.
36 are now gone and I have commenced my 37th year in the state of Victoria.
To think in another 36 years, I’ll be 72 and then another I’ll be 108….
Anyway, by way of celebration, I rode nearly 140 km today.
Back to back with a 140 day yesterday and I’m quite satisfied.
This sets me back only a day from the Colleambally debacle and am now only 800 km from Adelaide.
My ETA in Adelaide should be no more than 2 weeks.
Not that I’m in a hurry, but it would be good to arrive in under 6 weeks.
There are still some points of interest along the way, which will be revealed in good time.
After 280 kilometres in 33 hours, I’ll be taking a rest day tomorrow.
April 25 is ANZAC Day in Australia (Public Holiday) and without question Echuca is a nice place to be.
I’ve got a great camping spot right on the river and in my own humble opinion, I deserve a short break.
Echuca is in fact part of a twin town set up, with itself on the southern bank of the Murray River and the half-sized Moama on the northern bank.
I may even refer to my location in future as Echuca-Moama - so now everything is clear.
My camp is an exactly central position – under the bridge on the Moama side, but only a 15 minute walk to central Echuca on the other.
The Port of Echuca is quite famous for its paddle-steamers.
My inner Huck Finn is curious enough now to consider a ride down the river tomorrow.
If such an adventure is generally agreeable with my budget, then it may well happen…..
DAY 26 - TOCUMWAL NSW
TOCUMWAL NSW
DAY 26
COLLEAMBALLY - TOCUMWAL
142.3 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 16.30 (9h)
Time on Bike – 6h 09m 37s
Max. speed – 30.4 km/h
Av. Speed – 23.1 km/h
Now, where was I?
Bike trip, Sydney to Adelaide, stuck for days on end in a remote outpost…..
OK.
Time to move on and I have made way to the border town of Tocumwal.
From here, it will be farewell to NSW Riverina after nearly 2 weeks of cycling through the towns and countryside of the region.
Tomorrow marks the beginning of following Australia’s biggest river, the Murray, from here in Tocumwal through to Mildura in north-west Victoria.
I will be taking to the Murray Valley Highway for the most part of 500 km, before the final 400 km run into Adelaide.
Today was over 140 km – all entirely flat although the terrain and road surfaces allowed little advantage for making fast time.
75 kilometres lie between Colleambally and Jerilderie - a flat and barren outback journey with no settlements along the way.
For information on the town of Jerilderie, it may be helpful to take a Google search on the bushranger Ned Kelly. This should tell you all you need to know….
South along the Newell Highway from Jerilderie is the town of Finley, most famous as the home town of the Aussie band Spiderbait.
I don’t think they were around as I passed through this afternoon, although I stopped in for a nice piece of pie and a drink.
From Finley, it is just on 20 kilometres through to Tocumwal and it is here where I have set up camp.
The net delay from the extended stay in Colleambally should only be about a day.
This is a good result, all things considered.
I have also saved time by coming to Tocumwal, instead of heading further west to the town of Deniliquin.
The ETA for Adelaide will still be between 2 – 3 weeks, because I am going to take the time to explore things along the way, just as I have done from the start.
Tomorrow, across the border into Victoria first thing and around 100 km into the river town of Echuca.
DAY 26
COLLEAMBALLY - TOCUMWAL
142.3 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 16.30 (9h)
Time on Bike – 6h 09m 37s
Max. speed – 30.4 km/h
Av. Speed – 23.1 km/h
Now, where was I?
Bike trip, Sydney to Adelaide, stuck for days on end in a remote outpost…..
OK.
Time to move on and I have made way to the border town of Tocumwal.
From here, it will be farewell to NSW Riverina after nearly 2 weeks of cycling through the towns and countryside of the region.
Tomorrow marks the beginning of following Australia’s biggest river, the Murray, from here in Tocumwal through to Mildura in north-west Victoria.
I will be taking to the Murray Valley Highway for the most part of 500 km, before the final 400 km run into Adelaide.
Today was over 140 km – all entirely flat although the terrain and road surfaces allowed little advantage for making fast time.
75 kilometres lie between Colleambally and Jerilderie - a flat and barren outback journey with no settlements along the way.
For information on the town of Jerilderie, it may be helpful to take a Google search on the bushranger Ned Kelly. This should tell you all you need to know….
South along the Newell Highway from Jerilderie is the town of Finley, most famous as the home town of the Aussie band Spiderbait.
I don’t think they were around as I passed through this afternoon, although I stopped in for a nice piece of pie and a drink.
From Finley, it is just on 20 kilometres through to Tocumwal and it is here where I have set up camp.
The net delay from the extended stay in Colleambally should only be about a day.
This is a good result, all things considered.
I have also saved time by coming to Tocumwal, instead of heading further west to the town of Deniliquin.
The ETA for Adelaide will still be between 2 – 3 weeks, because I am going to take the time to explore things along the way, just as I have done from the start.
Tomorrow, across the border into Victoria first thing and around 100 km into the river town of Echuca.
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
DAY 25 - COLLEAMBALLY NSW
COLLEAMBALLY NSW
DAY 25
I'll probably miss Colleambally.
It has been an unusual and opportune union and I also know that I was meant to be here.
Pushbike John has been the source of some timely support and countless anecdotes about life on the road.
Thanks also to Val for having me here and looking out for my equipment during the sojourn in Melbourne.
And for such a small dot on the map, the locals in Coly should buy themselves a beer.
This place is in the middle of nowhere.
To travel 20 kilometres south of here and there is more outback than in the great Outback itself.
Some of the flattest and barren terrain on the planet is between here and Jerilderie – if it weren’t for the irrigation systems there would be nothing but nothing and a bit of saltbush.
I hope to post some photos in the coming days.
Back to the bike tomorrow and it is all set.
I stocked up on 10 fresh tubes and some other bits in Melbourne.
I have also installed some tyre guards by way of cutting up the used inner tubes and plastering them on the inside walls of all 5 tyres.
Also plastered in my brain is the mandate to NEVER EVER ride across anything other than a sealed road surface between here and Adelaide.
Caution must even be taken around grassed patches in rest areas and caravan parks.
Catheads and other dangerous spurs are absolutely everywhere.
Local knowledge has it that the long drought, followed by solid summer rains between November - February have been a fecund environment for the current plague.
The long hard Cathead spurs puncture tyres immediately on entry and then snap off as the wheel rotates, remaining embedded in the tyre and if not removed, will simply punch holes in fresh tubes as you replace them.
This is exactly why 9 of my 10 tubes were destroyed on Saturday.
Even, today I was still cutting spurs out of my tyres after repeated examination over the past 3 days.
There will likely be more problems, but at least I can go to sleep with good preparation.
The next trip to Melbourne will be my own choice. Mid-May seems like a good time.
I move on tomorrow with apprehension and just a hint of paranoia but will get to my next destination on time and intact.
DAY 25
I'll probably miss Colleambally.
It has been an unusual and opportune union and I also know that I was meant to be here.
Pushbike John has been the source of some timely support and countless anecdotes about life on the road.
Thanks also to Val for having me here and looking out for my equipment during the sojourn in Melbourne.
And for such a small dot on the map, the locals in Coly should buy themselves a beer.
This place is in the middle of nowhere.
To travel 20 kilometres south of here and there is more outback than in the great Outback itself.
Some of the flattest and barren terrain on the planet is between here and Jerilderie – if it weren’t for the irrigation systems there would be nothing but nothing and a bit of saltbush.
I hope to post some photos in the coming days.
Back to the bike tomorrow and it is all set.
I stocked up on 10 fresh tubes and some other bits in Melbourne.
I have also installed some tyre guards by way of cutting up the used inner tubes and plastering them on the inside walls of all 5 tyres.
Also plastered in my brain is the mandate to NEVER EVER ride across anything other than a sealed road surface between here and Adelaide.
Caution must even be taken around grassed patches in rest areas and caravan parks.
Catheads and other dangerous spurs are absolutely everywhere.
Local knowledge has it that the long drought, followed by solid summer rains between November - February have been a fecund environment for the current plague.
The long hard Cathead spurs puncture tyres immediately on entry and then snap off as the wheel rotates, remaining embedded in the tyre and if not removed, will simply punch holes in fresh tubes as you replace them.
This is exactly why 9 of my 10 tubes were destroyed on Saturday.
Even, today I was still cutting spurs out of my tyres after repeated examination over the past 3 days.
There will likely be more problems, but at least I can go to sleep with good preparation.
The next trip to Melbourne will be my own choice. Mid-May seems like a good time.
I move on tomorrow with apprehension and just a hint of paranoia but will get to my next destination on time and intact.
Monday, April 21, 2008
DAY 24 - MELBOURNE/COLLEAMBALLY
MELBOURNE/COLLEAMBALLY
DAY 24
Everything was taken care of first thing today.
I routed a phone directory beforehand, so was covered up to about Plan H.
As it happened, Plan A came good and was able to obtain all by 9.30 am.
This enabled me to wander around Melbourne for a day - not something I find unenjoyable in the least - and be ready for a 6.30 pm train back to NSW.
Was back in Colleambally by midnight and who knows what will happen tomorrow??
DAY 24
Everything was taken care of first thing today.
I routed a phone directory beforehand, so was covered up to about Plan H.
As it happened, Plan A came good and was able to obtain all by 9.30 am.
This enabled me to wander around Melbourne for a day - not something I find unenjoyable in the least - and be ready for a 6.30 pm train back to NSW.
Was back in Colleambally by midnight and who knows what will happen tomorrow??
Sunday, April 20, 2008
DAY 23 - MELBOURNE VIC
MELBOURNE VIC
DAY 23
No this is not a mistake.
Nor have I quit in a fit of pique and run crying to the nearest airport.
After sifting through numerous options, coming to Melbourne was simply the best one.
All my stuff is still is "Coly" and I will be returning in 24 hours.
My predicament was such, that I have needed to solve it as practically as possible and with all the givens - my disabled equipment, remoteness of location, irregularity of transport, nothing being open on a Sunday, my specialised trike tyres and general desire to get back on the road AQAP - then the once weekly 1.50 pm bus out of Coleambally this afternoon was the only way to go.
The bus drove to Shepparton VIC, followed by a transfer to V-Line train direct to Melbourne.
I was in Melbourne by 7.30 pm and after some foot patrol for an hour or so, stumbled across a very amenable room (with queen-size bed and en-suite if you please) for a mere $34 overnight.
A feed in Brunswick Street, Gelatissimo in Lygon Street, then back to digs for a sound nap to complete one of the more interesting weekends of my existence.
Towmorrow, the mission is on - to track down a fresh quiver of inner-tubes that will allow me to get back to Coleambally and continue on my quest to Adelaide.
At least in Melbourne, I am 99% certain that this will get done.
Stay tuned.....
DAY 23
No this is not a mistake.
Nor have I quit in a fit of pique and run crying to the nearest airport.
After sifting through numerous options, coming to Melbourne was simply the best one.
All my stuff is still is "Coly" and I will be returning in 24 hours.
My predicament was such, that I have needed to solve it as practically as possible and with all the givens - my disabled equipment, remoteness of location, irregularity of transport, nothing being open on a Sunday, my specialised trike tyres and general desire to get back on the road AQAP - then the once weekly 1.50 pm bus out of Coleambally this afternoon was the only way to go.
The bus drove to Shepparton VIC, followed by a transfer to V-Line train direct to Melbourne.
I was in Melbourne by 7.30 pm and after some foot patrol for an hour or so, stumbled across a very amenable room (with queen-size bed and en-suite if you please) for a mere $34 overnight.
A feed in Brunswick Street, Gelatissimo in Lygon Street, then back to digs for a sound nap to complete one of the more interesting weekends of my existence.
Towmorrow, the mission is on - to track down a fresh quiver of inner-tubes that will allow me to get back to Coleambally and continue on my quest to Adelaide.
At least in Melbourne, I am 99% certain that this will get done.
Stay tuned.....
Saturday, April 19, 2008
DAY 22 - COLEAMBALLY NSW
COLEAMBALLY NSW
DAY 22
GRIFFITH - COLEAMBALLY
83.97 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 15.00 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike – 3h 34m 33s
Max. speed – 38.4 km/h
Av. Speed – 23.5 km/h
Coleambally is easily the last place I expected to be.
I am stuck.
Stuck in Coleambally and it will be several days before I am back on the road and all because of this morning.
This morning was just too good to be true; an absolute flyer – the easiest 70 kilometres of the trip – dead flat and a blustering tailwind to die for.
I was on target for a big 170 km day to Finley, but not before stopping in here at “Coly”, just shy of 11 am.
There is a big rest park on the highway full of shady trees and a kiddies playground.
I’d just allowed some of those kiddies and turn on my bike – they thought it was a Go-Kart and I wasn’t about to disappoint them.
A quick refuel and back into it.
I followed a loose, sandy car track out of the rest park and back towards the highway, but it seemed instead to lead towards a private residence after 400 metres or so.
In one of my more irresponsible moments, I flinched and made a snap decision to rough ride a direct line towards the highway.
And straight through a verdant field of the fattest, juiciest Catheads you ever did see.
5 working tyres – 5 spares and upwards of 40 punctures was the net total as at 4 pm this afternoon.
And not a replacement tube within at least 70 km.
A complete cat (head)astrpohe.
The good news is that there is no good news.
Well, Coly is actually quite a nice little town. Nothing open on a Sunday, but I should get by.
Val is only charging me $7 to camp for as many nights as I need to be here.
There are a number of plans that may or may not come off.
I may even end up on a train to Melbourne if one of the more extreme versions comes to pass.
Still, it sure looks like there will be a few days ahead to work things out.
If I’m back in the game by Tuesday, I’ll have done well.
Until then, good night, God Bless America and God Bless your Catheads……
DAY 22
GRIFFITH - COLEAMBALLY
83.97 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 15.00 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike – 3h 34m 33s
Max. speed – 38.4 km/h
Av. Speed – 23.5 km/h
Coleambally is easily the last place I expected to be.
I am stuck.
Stuck in Coleambally and it will be several days before I am back on the road and all because of this morning.
This morning was just too good to be true; an absolute flyer – the easiest 70 kilometres of the trip – dead flat and a blustering tailwind to die for.
I was on target for a big 170 km day to Finley, but not before stopping in here at “Coly”, just shy of 11 am.
There is a big rest park on the highway full of shady trees and a kiddies playground.
I’d just allowed some of those kiddies and turn on my bike – they thought it was a Go-Kart and I wasn’t about to disappoint them.
A quick refuel and back into it.
I followed a loose, sandy car track out of the rest park and back towards the highway, but it seemed instead to lead towards a private residence after 400 metres or so.
In one of my more irresponsible moments, I flinched and made a snap decision to rough ride a direct line towards the highway.
And straight through a verdant field of the fattest, juiciest Catheads you ever did see.
5 working tyres – 5 spares and upwards of 40 punctures was the net total as at 4 pm this afternoon.
And not a replacement tube within at least 70 km.
A complete cat (head)astrpohe.
The good news is that there is no good news.
Well, Coly is actually quite a nice little town. Nothing open on a Sunday, but I should get by.
Val is only charging me $7 to camp for as many nights as I need to be here.
There are a number of plans that may or may not come off.
I may even end up on a train to Melbourne if one of the more extreme versions comes to pass.
Still, it sure looks like there will be a few days ahead to work things out.
If I’m back in the game by Tuesday, I’ll have done well.
Until then, good night, God Bless America and God Bless your Catheads……
DAY 21 - GRIFFITH NSW
GRIFFITH NSW
DAY 21
My body was in need of a restful day and some serious rehydration.
I am generally loathed to keep abreast with everyday carry-on whilst travelling, however 3 hours at the Library was not only what was needed, but provided ripe opportunity to bury my head in a newspaper or 4.
Alas, I am now up to date.
Ready now also, for southbound passage tomorrow and over the next few days.
The cultural mix in Griffith is an interesting one.
Indian, Polynesian, Asian and southern European are predominant. Not as many indigenous Kooris as the rest, and of course the usual proportion of whitefellas…..
Why Griffith of all places has attracted such polygenic peoples, I’m not quite sure but it has something to do perhaps with the fertile agriculture of the region as well as the generally sunny climate….
With so many Indians in town, I have been a little disappointed not to find more sumptuous curry houses around – there is one in the main street but it is an a-la-carte, sit-down affair – not so much for me…..
I have discovered though, why so much grass is green and why domestic gardens look as though they have been modelled for a magazine.
It is the MIA.
Not to be confused with the Mafia (even though there’s lots of that about).
MIA is the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area.
Australia is basically a big desert – unless you happen to live near the coast like 85% of the population.
For everyone else, water is quite a precious resource.
At least in recent times, the coastal folk have started to learn the lesson with permanent water restrictions now in Sydney for about 3 years, in response to the worst drought in 100 years.
No water restrictions around here though – 500 km inland or not.
It has all been worked out in the MIA, so the question must be raised as to why the rest of the wide brown land can’t get it together.
I quote from a well informed tourist brochure:
“Water is diverted from the river at Berembed Weir upstream of Narrandera and Gogeldrie Weir near Leeton. Flows continue through a network of supply channels to each farm where it is measured onto the property.”
“Company staff adjust the channel flows to meet the changing needs of customers. Drainage channels collect storm run-off from farms and take it to Barren Box Swamp just west of Griffith which serves as an en-route storage for customers further down the system”.
So there it is, as simple as can be.
And not a permanent restriction or desalination plant in sight.
DAY 21
My body was in need of a restful day and some serious rehydration.
I am generally loathed to keep abreast with everyday carry-on whilst travelling, however 3 hours at the Library was not only what was needed, but provided ripe opportunity to bury my head in a newspaper or 4.
Alas, I am now up to date.
Ready now also, for southbound passage tomorrow and over the next few days.
The cultural mix in Griffith is an interesting one.
Indian, Polynesian, Asian and southern European are predominant. Not as many indigenous Kooris as the rest, and of course the usual proportion of whitefellas…..
Why Griffith of all places has attracted such polygenic peoples, I’m not quite sure but it has something to do perhaps with the fertile agriculture of the region as well as the generally sunny climate….
With so many Indians in town, I have been a little disappointed not to find more sumptuous curry houses around – there is one in the main street but it is an a-la-carte, sit-down affair – not so much for me…..
I have discovered though, why so much grass is green and why domestic gardens look as though they have been modelled for a magazine.
It is the MIA.
Not to be confused with the Mafia (even though there’s lots of that about).
MIA is the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area.
Australia is basically a big desert – unless you happen to live near the coast like 85% of the population.
For everyone else, water is quite a precious resource.
At least in recent times, the coastal folk have started to learn the lesson with permanent water restrictions now in Sydney for about 3 years, in response to the worst drought in 100 years.
No water restrictions around here though – 500 km inland or not.
It has all been worked out in the MIA, so the question must be raised as to why the rest of the wide brown land can’t get it together.
I quote from a well informed tourist brochure:
“Water is diverted from the river at Berembed Weir upstream of Narrandera and Gogeldrie Weir near Leeton. Flows continue through a network of supply channels to each farm where it is measured onto the property.”
“Company staff adjust the channel flows to meet the changing needs of customers. Drainage channels collect storm run-off from farms and take it to Barren Box Swamp just west of Griffith which serves as an en-route storage for customers further down the system”.
So there it is, as simple as can be.
And not a permanent restriction or desalination plant in sight.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
DAY 20 - GRIFFITH NSW
GRIFFITH NSW
DAY 20
NARRANDERA - GRIFFITH
98.15 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 13.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 14m 14s
Max. speed – 41.4 km/h
Av. Speed – 23.1 km/h
90 km plus tax today.
I am quite tired, which may indicate that more energy is actually consumed for 5 hours on the flat every day
There are no hills, but the effort is probably more constant.
For every monster hill climbed, there is normally a nice rest flying down the other side.
No such advantage is available legging across the flats of Riverina NSW.
Today took me through the well-watered, palm-lined streets of Yanco and Leeton, before taking a 90º dog-leg at a place called Whitton.
This swung everything north for a dead-straight Nullabor-ish 25 km - into the sun and a headwind.
The first time I've headed north on this trip - and probably the last.
At this stage, I am taking something of an indirect route to Adelaide anyway.
I know this is adding days and miles to the journey, but I really don’t care.
Total distance covered to date is around 1100 km. There is about this again to reach Adelaide.
Destinations such as Wagga and here in Griffith have been added to the original itinerary, and simply because I have wanted to.
The route from here will head directly south – towards the Murray River and I will cross into Victoria by mid-next week.
For now, I will be hanging around Griffith tomorrow before the next scheduled ride on Saturday.
DAY 20
NARRANDERA - GRIFFITH
98.15 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 13.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 14m 14s
Max. speed – 41.4 km/h
Av. Speed – 23.1 km/h
90 km plus tax today.
I am quite tired, which may indicate that more energy is actually consumed for 5 hours on the flat every day
There are no hills, but the effort is probably more constant.
For every monster hill climbed, there is normally a nice rest flying down the other side.
No such advantage is available legging across the flats of Riverina NSW.
Today took me through the well-watered, palm-lined streets of Yanco and Leeton, before taking a 90º dog-leg at a place called Whitton.
This swung everything north for a dead-straight Nullabor-ish 25 km - into the sun and a headwind.
The first time I've headed north on this trip - and probably the last.
At this stage, I am taking something of an indirect route to Adelaide anyway.
I know this is adding days and miles to the journey, but I really don’t care.
Total distance covered to date is around 1100 km. There is about this again to reach Adelaide.
Destinations such as Wagga and here in Griffith have been added to the original itinerary, and simply because I have wanted to.
The route from here will head directly south – towards the Murray River and I will cross into Victoria by mid-next week.
For now, I will be hanging around Griffith tomorrow before the next scheduled ride on Saturday.
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
DAY 19 - NARRANDERA NSW
NARRANDERA NSW
DAY 19
WAGGA WAGGA - NARRANDERA
109.35 km
Total Time – 08.00 – 13.30 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 34m 34s
Max. speed – 46.9 km/h
Av. Speed – 23.9 km/h
The journey continues.
By the above statistics, something is very telling.
When the maximum speed is low and the average speed high, flat terrain is most likely responsible.
Today’s was the flattest ride so far.
Dead flat from start to end.
More can be expected in the coming days.
Unfortunately it doesn’t make for the most exciting riding – scenery in particular is fairly uninspiring.
Conditions otherwise were superb today.
Flat terrain, wide open skies, 21°C, gentle cross-breezes.
There were a few trucks.
Quite a few and for some reason, etiquette appears to be not so highly regarded in these parts.
I’ve had more than a fair break along the way – most people stop short of being impressed when I relate how most traffic responds to me.
Today was the first time I felt maybe I’m coming back to the field.
Or maybe it was the conditions.
The Sturt Highway isn’t a 10-lane freeway by any means – and the road shoulder is just a little inconsistent.
I do my best – and the 34-wheeler B-Doubles should behave themselves.
The size discrepancy is enormous and there’s no way I’m gonna win.
I would like to make it to Adelaide upright, after all…..
It will be just a one-night stand in Narrandera.
A very leafy and well-kept town, I may say.
Something of a cross between Canberra and Belrose (equally leafy suburb in Sydney), such is the manicured attention and comfortable ambience around the town.
There’s also some typically fine historic pubs along the main street, as well as a number of buildings (homes included) that have earned National Trust status.
Ramshackled is not a description that could be necessarily apply to Narrandera.
I have set up camp at nearby Lake Talbot.
Not to miss the opportunity, I took a therapeutic swim in said lake shortly after arrival.
20 minutes of genial frolic later and my 110 km legs were almost back to normal.
Tomorrow will see me push onwards to the town of Griffith – the second city of the Riverina to Wagga and quite a multi-ethnic affair I’m told.
DAY 19
WAGGA WAGGA - NARRANDERA
109.35 km
Total Time – 08.00 – 13.30 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 34m 34s
Max. speed – 46.9 km/h
Av. Speed – 23.9 km/h
The journey continues.
By the above statistics, something is very telling.
When the maximum speed is low and the average speed high, flat terrain is most likely responsible.
Today’s was the flattest ride so far.
Dead flat from start to end.
More can be expected in the coming days.
Unfortunately it doesn’t make for the most exciting riding – scenery in particular is fairly uninspiring.
Conditions otherwise were superb today.
Flat terrain, wide open skies, 21°C, gentle cross-breezes.
There were a few trucks.
Quite a few and for some reason, etiquette appears to be not so highly regarded in these parts.
I’ve had more than a fair break along the way – most people stop short of being impressed when I relate how most traffic responds to me.
Today was the first time I felt maybe I’m coming back to the field.
Or maybe it was the conditions.
The Sturt Highway isn’t a 10-lane freeway by any means – and the road shoulder is just a little inconsistent.
I do my best – and the 34-wheeler B-Doubles should behave themselves.
The size discrepancy is enormous and there’s no way I’m gonna win.
I would like to make it to Adelaide upright, after all…..
It will be just a one-night stand in Narrandera.
A very leafy and well-kept town, I may say.
Something of a cross between Canberra and Belrose (equally leafy suburb in Sydney), such is the manicured attention and comfortable ambience around the town.
There’s also some typically fine historic pubs along the main street, as well as a number of buildings (homes included) that have earned National Trust status.
Ramshackled is not a description that could be necessarily apply to Narrandera.
I have set up camp at nearby Lake Talbot.
Not to miss the opportunity, I took a therapeutic swim in said lake shortly after arrival.
20 minutes of genial frolic later and my 110 km legs were almost back to normal.
Tomorrow will see me push onwards to the town of Griffith – the second city of the Riverina to Wagga and quite a multi-ethnic affair I’m told.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
DAY 18 - WAGGA WAGGA NSW
WAGGA WAGGA NSW
DAY 18
REST DAY #2
Another day in Wagga and I will dedicate this very post to the largest inland NSW city and the 4th largest overall.
The list goes: Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong, Wagga Wagga.
Canberra does not count because we all know this is the ACT.....
Anyway, with about 10 000 students about town, Wagga probably qualifies as a college town and it is.
It also lends itself to the upmarket as far as inland cities go.
Boutiques, cafes and maple trees line Baylis Street from one end to another and it is quite a long street too.
There is generally a lot to look at, given said student population and of course, there are no shortages of places to get a good feed.
Food is my petrol and there should be no issue of conscience with loading myself up with a good meal in lieu of filling a car with $50 of gas every other day.
This said, I've been making quite gainful use of Woolworths' salad bar.
In fact, I'd go so far as to say it rocks.
I can basically blow in and out for under $10 every time and be 100% guaranteed of a nutritious feed.
Sure, I could fill up on pizza and salad every night or even pub grub is always on.
These options would consume my budget in one hit on a regular basis - not to mention my love handles.
I'd be riding 120 km a day just to burn off last nights' pizza at this rate......
Wagga is also fairly unique in that it has 2 names the same - Wagga Wagga - but most just call it Wagga.
Strangley, there is a suburb in my Sydney neighbourhood named Curl Curl, but nobody simply calls this just "Curl".
One of life's oddities, this one......
Once again, mine host Sandy brewed up another splendid rendition of Bolognaise tonight - plenty was left from overnight, except this time with mushrooms into the mix and washed down with one of my favourite but long forgotten drops - Tooheys Old.
A dark, strong and malty mix is the Old - not quite a Stout but a different Ale nonetheless, and I have certainly been rekindling my fondness for it on this trip.
Some of the beautiful, historic inland pubs just pour it out on tap and it is first choice bar none.
Another early night is at hand, as I face a nice even 100km to Narranderra tomorrow.
I will prepare for bed soon, and drift off to dreamland to the sweet sounds of bagpipes and marching drums, as the Wagga Wagga City Pipeband rehearse at full tilt outside of my tent......
Good Night to you all.
DAY 18
REST DAY #2
Another day in Wagga and I will dedicate this very post to the largest inland NSW city and the 4th largest overall.
The list goes: Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong, Wagga Wagga.
Canberra does not count because we all know this is the ACT.....
Anyway, with about 10 000 students about town, Wagga probably qualifies as a college town and it is.
It also lends itself to the upmarket as far as inland cities go.
Boutiques, cafes and maple trees line Baylis Street from one end to another and it is quite a long street too.
There is generally a lot to look at, given said student population and of course, there are no shortages of places to get a good feed.
Food is my petrol and there should be no issue of conscience with loading myself up with a good meal in lieu of filling a car with $50 of gas every other day.
This said, I've been making quite gainful use of Woolworths' salad bar.
In fact, I'd go so far as to say it rocks.
I can basically blow in and out for under $10 every time and be 100% guaranteed of a nutritious feed.
Sure, I could fill up on pizza and salad every night or even pub grub is always on.
These options would consume my budget in one hit on a regular basis - not to mention my love handles.
I'd be riding 120 km a day just to burn off last nights' pizza at this rate......
Wagga is also fairly unique in that it has 2 names the same - Wagga Wagga - but most just call it Wagga.
Strangley, there is a suburb in my Sydney neighbourhood named Curl Curl, but nobody simply calls this just "Curl".
One of life's oddities, this one......
Once again, mine host Sandy brewed up another splendid rendition of Bolognaise tonight - plenty was left from overnight, except this time with mushrooms into the mix and washed down with one of my favourite but long forgotten drops - Tooheys Old.
A dark, strong and malty mix is the Old - not quite a Stout but a different Ale nonetheless, and I have certainly been rekindling my fondness for it on this trip.
Some of the beautiful, historic inland pubs just pour it out on tap and it is first choice bar none.
Another early night is at hand, as I face a nice even 100km to Narranderra tomorrow.
I will prepare for bed soon, and drift off to dreamland to the sweet sounds of bagpipes and marching drums, as the Wagga Wagga City Pipeband rehearse at full tilt outside of my tent......
Good Night to you all.
Monday, April 14, 2008
DAY 17 - WAGGA WAGGA NSW
WAGGA WAGGA NSW
DAY 17
REST DAY
A day about town, taking care of general trivialities and lazing in the park.
I have to confess some disappointment at how few touring cyclists I’ve actually come across to this point.
Two.
That’s how many.
And this was over 2 weeks ago at Winmalee in the Blue Mountains.
Even then they were going the other way.
I hear so many adventurous tales of bike riders all over the wide brown land, so it does seem a little strange to be approaching 1000 km of my journey through a well populated area of Australia and to have only come across 2 cyclists going the other way.
And it’s not even summer or winter.
Or perhaps Sydney to Adelaide just isn’t extreme enough for the hardcorers any longer??
Anyway, I guess this all serves me better to carve my own path….
I’ll be hanging about in Wagga for 2 days. I feel as though I could push on tomorrow, but since I’ve paid my camp site up and they won’t give me a refund for the 3rd night, I might as well stay.
Besides, I’ve made friends with my neighbours.
Got invited around for dinner and everything tonight.
Sandy cooked up some Bolognaise and we washed it down with a beer and some evil Goon*.
*Goon is cheap cask wine – the most famous Aussie brand is Coolabah. By this theory, you can get absolutely wrecked for about $7 and act like a complete Goon etc, etc………
Well, there was none of this really.
Everything remained very polite as Sandy and his sidekick B.J are working and looking for work respectively in Wagga, so this amounted to an early start for both of them.
There was the usual banter campfire banter about the state of the world and the meaning of life and aside from said Goon, there were no particular substances involved so discussion remained in general, silliness-free……
DAY 17
REST DAY
A day about town, taking care of general trivialities and lazing in the park.
I have to confess some disappointment at how few touring cyclists I’ve actually come across to this point.
Two.
That’s how many.
And this was over 2 weeks ago at Winmalee in the Blue Mountains.
Even then they were going the other way.
I hear so many adventurous tales of bike riders all over the wide brown land, so it does seem a little strange to be approaching 1000 km of my journey through a well populated area of Australia and to have only come across 2 cyclists going the other way.
And it’s not even summer or winter.
Or perhaps Sydney to Adelaide just isn’t extreme enough for the hardcorers any longer??
Anyway, I guess this all serves me better to carve my own path….
I’ll be hanging about in Wagga for 2 days. I feel as though I could push on tomorrow, but since I’ve paid my camp site up and they won’t give me a refund for the 3rd night, I might as well stay.
Besides, I’ve made friends with my neighbours.
Got invited around for dinner and everything tonight.
Sandy cooked up some Bolognaise and we washed it down with a beer and some evil Goon*.
*Goon is cheap cask wine – the most famous Aussie brand is Coolabah. By this theory, you can get absolutely wrecked for about $7 and act like a complete Goon etc, etc………
Well, there was none of this really.
Everything remained very polite as Sandy and his sidekick B.J are working and looking for work respectively in Wagga, so this amounted to an early start for both of them.
There was the usual banter campfire banter about the state of the world and the meaning of life and aside from said Goon, there were no particular substances involved so discussion remained in general, silliness-free……
Sunday, April 13, 2008
WAGGA WAGGA NSW
DAY 16
YOUNG – WAGGA WAGGA
158.12 km
Total Time – 07.00 – 17.00 (10h)
Time on Bike – 7h 35m 51s
Max. speed – 65.5 km/h
Av. Speed – 20.8 km/h
Today was BT. Bloody Terrific.
First 150 day of the trip. Tired but satisfied.
Spinifex, millions of locusts, turtles, catheads, curious motorists.
I made friends with them all along the way.
Predicted rain did not eventuate despite an overnight soaking in Young.
School holidays however did eventuate and 7 am along the Olympic Highway out of Young was Sunday morning rush hour.
It took me about an hour to figure it out - but there were simply too many kiddies waving at me out of the back of car windows.
Perhaps they were just off to church…..
There was some extended climbing out of Young first thing, followed by some more serious climbing south of Cootamundra.
And once the terrain levelled out, the headwind kicked in for the final 20 km into Junee.
I’m not complaining – or maybe I am – it just gets a little frustrating when you’re grinding uphill at 7 km/h for an hour at a time, knowing there is another 7, 8, 9 hours in front of you.
Anyway, enough of this.
There were bountiful flat and downhill runs to keep me sufficiently pleased during the day and the average speed hovering above 20 km/h for majority.
Any average speed above 20 km/h is indeed fair travelling and I recognise this.
I just enjoy whingeing every now and then.
Pulling into Junee around 2 pm, surrounded by beautifully kept 19th century buildings throughout the town square (Junee train station is especially conspicuous), I could have easily stayed.
110 kilometres were already registered and with an uncomfortable headwind likely to accompany me into Wagga Wagga, why not just call it a day?
With only 40 km to cover for my final destination, I just knew I had it in me.
So down with a chicken burger and chocolate milkshake (fine nutrition for the road, people) in Junee and off into the afternoon.
And it wasn’t nearly as bad as expected.
My friendly headwind seemed to diminish the further I travelled and aside from a 5 km section south of Wallacetown rest stop, I was barrelling along at 30 km/h + for the most part.
The final gripe for the day was on the approaches to Wagga Wagga - the 7 km to go sign corresponded well with my own computer measurements and there was only spitting distance to go.
To my dismay, another 2 km down the way, a new sign presented, informing me of 9 km to Wagga.
More bad language, but the facts were a magical extra 4 kilometres had appeared from nowhere - with 149 already on the clock and just a small dose of fatigue, I wasn’t seeing the funny side of it.
I pedalled onwards as it seemed pointless sleeping beneath a highway overpass for the night.
On the stroke of 5 pm I reached my resting place in Wagga and pitched a tent not long after.
DAY 16
YOUNG – WAGGA WAGGA
158.12 km
Total Time – 07.00 – 17.00 (10h)
Time on Bike – 7h 35m 51s
Max. speed – 65.5 km/h
Av. Speed – 20.8 km/h
Today was BT. Bloody Terrific.
First 150 day of the trip. Tired but satisfied.
Spinifex, millions of locusts, turtles, catheads, curious motorists.
I made friends with them all along the way.
Predicted rain did not eventuate despite an overnight soaking in Young.
School holidays however did eventuate and 7 am along the Olympic Highway out of Young was Sunday morning rush hour.
It took me about an hour to figure it out - but there were simply too many kiddies waving at me out of the back of car windows.
Perhaps they were just off to church…..
There was some extended climbing out of Young first thing, followed by some more serious climbing south of Cootamundra.
And once the terrain levelled out, the headwind kicked in for the final 20 km into Junee.
I’m not complaining – or maybe I am – it just gets a little frustrating when you’re grinding uphill at 7 km/h for an hour at a time, knowing there is another 7, 8, 9 hours in front of you.
Anyway, enough of this.
There were bountiful flat and downhill runs to keep me sufficiently pleased during the day and the average speed hovering above 20 km/h for majority.
Any average speed above 20 km/h is indeed fair travelling and I recognise this.
I just enjoy whingeing every now and then.
Pulling into Junee around 2 pm, surrounded by beautifully kept 19th century buildings throughout the town square (Junee train station is especially conspicuous), I could have easily stayed.
110 kilometres were already registered and with an uncomfortable headwind likely to accompany me into Wagga Wagga, why not just call it a day?
With only 40 km to cover for my final destination, I just knew I had it in me.
So down with a chicken burger and chocolate milkshake (fine nutrition for the road, people) in Junee and off into the afternoon.
And it wasn’t nearly as bad as expected.
My friendly headwind seemed to diminish the further I travelled and aside from a 5 km section south of Wallacetown rest stop, I was barrelling along at 30 km/h + for the most part.
The final gripe for the day was on the approaches to Wagga Wagga - the 7 km to go sign corresponded well with my own computer measurements and there was only spitting distance to go.
To my dismay, another 2 km down the way, a new sign presented, informing me of 9 km to Wagga.
More bad language, but the facts were a magical extra 4 kilometres had appeared from nowhere - with 149 already on the clock and just a small dose of fatigue, I wasn’t seeing the funny side of it.
I pedalled onwards as it seemed pointless sleeping beneath a highway overpass for the night.
On the stroke of 5 pm I reached my resting place in Wagga and pitched a tent not long after.
YOUNG NSW
DAY 15
Lambing Flat Festival 2008.
Young was once known as Lambing Flat when gold was gold, soap was on not a rope and bushrangers were very scary men.
The annual LFF is day of fairy floss stalls, pony rides, vintage cars, combustion engines, model trains, steak sandwiches and jumping castles.
There are also a number of re-enactments – everything from the trial of 1860’s bad boy, Frank Gardiner to daily goings-on in a colonial classroom.
Some strange dancing held my attention for some time – lots of tinkling bells and hanky waving. I didn’t quite understand, but went with it for the while.
It was a most-of-the-day affair – I didn’t mind in the least really as it’s not something I’d do every weekend.
I sensed it was time to leave though, when I experienced a flashback to a previous existence and John Williamson was my favourite artist…..
Tomorrow, it is predicted to rain.
2 weeks on the road and not a single wet drop.
I must be due.
My schedule tomorrow is to make it through to Wagga Wagga.
If I make it as far, it will be a big day in the rain - but this is the goal.
DAY 15
Lambing Flat Festival 2008.
Young was once known as Lambing Flat when gold was gold, soap was on not a rope and bushrangers were very scary men.
The annual LFF is day of fairy floss stalls, pony rides, vintage cars, combustion engines, model trains, steak sandwiches and jumping castles.
There are also a number of re-enactments – everything from the trial of 1860’s bad boy, Frank Gardiner to daily goings-on in a colonial classroom.
Some strange dancing held my attention for some time – lots of tinkling bells and hanky waving. I didn’t quite understand, but went with it for the while.
It was a most-of-the-day affair – I didn’t mind in the least really as it’s not something I’d do every weekend.
I sensed it was time to leave though, when I experienced a flashback to a previous existence and John Williamson was my favourite artist…..
Tomorrow, it is predicted to rain.
2 weeks on the road and not a single wet drop.
I must be due.
My schedule tomorrow is to make it through to Wagga Wagga.
If I make it as far, it will be a big day in the rain - but this is the goal.
Friday, April 11, 2008
DAY 14 - YOUNG NSW
YOUNG NSW
DAY 14
COWRA – YOUNG
77.21 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 12.00 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike – 3h 40m 38s
Max. speed – 62.2 km/h
Av. Speed - 21 km/h
Nice ride today.
Good news also today - the on-board computer is back in action.
No flats, good stats and a happy camp all around.
And judging by those stats, things are beginning to flatten out – terrain wise, that is.
I’m heading south for the first time on this trip.
Cowra has marked the turning point – the end of 10 days of exploring Central West NSW and the beginning of exploring an area known as the Riverina.
The Riverina is so named because of the junction of 2 major river systems – the Murray-Darling and the Murrumbidgee.
This physically takes place a bit further on, but for now I have arrived in the “Cherry Capital of the World”, or at least of Australia, Young.
I’ll be here for a couple of days, although probably won’t be eating cherries.
I'm not a huge fan, even at Christmas time - although there are also lots of plums, prunes and other treats that will surely grab my fancy.
Tomorrow is the Lambing Flats festival in Carrington Park, so will be reporting on this next posting.
It so happens that Young hosts only 2 festivals per year and I’ve arrived in town for one of them.
“Something for everyone…” the posters about town guarantee.
We shall see.
DAY 14
COWRA – YOUNG
77.21 km
Total Time – 07.30 – 12.00 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike – 3h 40m 38s
Max. speed – 62.2 km/h
Av. Speed - 21 km/h
Nice ride today.
Good news also today - the on-board computer is back in action.
No flats, good stats and a happy camp all around.
And judging by those stats, things are beginning to flatten out – terrain wise, that is.
I’m heading south for the first time on this trip.
Cowra has marked the turning point – the end of 10 days of exploring Central West NSW and the beginning of exploring an area known as the Riverina.
The Riverina is so named because of the junction of 2 major river systems – the Murray-Darling and the Murrumbidgee.
This physically takes place a bit further on, but for now I have arrived in the “Cherry Capital of the World”, or at least of Australia, Young.
I’ll be here for a couple of days, although probably won’t be eating cherries.
I'm not a huge fan, even at Christmas time - although there are also lots of plums, prunes and other treats that will surely grab my fancy.
Tomorrow is the Lambing Flats festival in Carrington Park, so will be reporting on this next posting.
It so happens that Young hosts only 2 festivals per year and I’ve arrived in town for one of them.
“Something for everyone…” the posters about town guarantee.
We shall see.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
DAY 13 - COWRA NSW
COWRA NSW
DAY 13
With the trike in for an overnight workshop, a day around Cowra was all mine.
Firstly, back to the original, original plan.
This was due to be a stay in nearby Woodstock in what sold itself as a “Backpacker Farmstay” – with a range of accommodation from tent sites right through to $150 per night honeymoon suites.
A tent site would have suited me just fine, however after several attempts to make contact, it would seem that “Riverslea Station” has been removed from the accommodation world map, so it was never meant to be.
And here I am in Cowra.
I was probably always going to come here – I just didn’t get to experience the true splendour of Riverslea – I am genuinely disappointed however, life goes on.
After a grand total of 4 tyre punctures yesterday (yes, there was another since the last writing), today was set to be a mix of sightseeing and problem-solving.
Sightseeing was easily my first choice, so up out of the tent and a slow walk up the hill to Cowra’s famous Japanese Gardens.
At this point, a short history lesson may be appropriate before launching a critique of the gardens.
Several thousand foreign soldiers were held here in Cowra during World War 2 as POW’s.
In August 1944, about 1000 of the Japanese contingent staged an uprising in the middle of the night that became known as the “Cowra Breakout”.
The motivation behind this was the Bushido philosophy of engagement, whereby it was much more noble to be slain in battle than perish as a nameless soldier at the enemy’s hands – the Japanese were very much driven by this, hence why they did what they did.
Several hundred Japanese and some Australians were killed in the Breakout.
There is a permanent memorial and the POW Camp still remains in Cowra.
Not until the 1970’s, had memories of the past faded sufficiently for work to begin on the nearby Japanese Gardens – partly as a tribute to what had gone before, but also as a symbol of more peaceful relations after WW2.
A top-flight Japanese garden architect, Mr Nakajima was commissioned and the gardens were completed in several stages over a 10 year period 1976 – 86.
These days a $10 entry fee gains access to the gardens and cultural centre. You can also waste some money in the souvenir shop or take time to fine dine in the restaurant next door.
I settled for the gardens and cultural centre for today – about an hour snapping some photos outside and afterwards, I found the cultural centre very well presented and quite worthwhile.
I didn’t sign the visitor’s book, but plodded back down the hill for some internet time and a session with my punctured tubes,
The problem with Cathead punctures (which are the ones that I have – please see yesterday’s blog) are that they are so fine, you can’t even see them.
They bubble in water, but after this, you’re lost.
Several attempts and some eye-strain later, 4 tubes were patched and I dedicated the next hour or so to some quality hammock time.
Harry at the sometime bike shop ran some necessary repairs for me overnight and with a full quota of tubes, I am now ready for the Cathead mission to Young tomorrow......
DAY 13
With the trike in for an overnight workshop, a day around Cowra was all mine.
Firstly, back to the original, original plan.
This was due to be a stay in nearby Woodstock in what sold itself as a “Backpacker Farmstay” – with a range of accommodation from tent sites right through to $150 per night honeymoon suites.
A tent site would have suited me just fine, however after several attempts to make contact, it would seem that “Riverslea Station” has been removed from the accommodation world map, so it was never meant to be.
And here I am in Cowra.
I was probably always going to come here – I just didn’t get to experience the true splendour of Riverslea – I am genuinely disappointed however, life goes on.
After a grand total of 4 tyre punctures yesterday (yes, there was another since the last writing), today was set to be a mix of sightseeing and problem-solving.
Sightseeing was easily my first choice, so up out of the tent and a slow walk up the hill to Cowra’s famous Japanese Gardens.
At this point, a short history lesson may be appropriate before launching a critique of the gardens.
Several thousand foreign soldiers were held here in Cowra during World War 2 as POW’s.
In August 1944, about 1000 of the Japanese contingent staged an uprising in the middle of the night that became known as the “Cowra Breakout”.
The motivation behind this was the Bushido philosophy of engagement, whereby it was much more noble to be slain in battle than perish as a nameless soldier at the enemy’s hands – the Japanese were very much driven by this, hence why they did what they did.
Several hundred Japanese and some Australians were killed in the Breakout.
There is a permanent memorial and the POW Camp still remains in Cowra.
Not until the 1970’s, had memories of the past faded sufficiently for work to begin on the nearby Japanese Gardens – partly as a tribute to what had gone before, but also as a symbol of more peaceful relations after WW2.
A top-flight Japanese garden architect, Mr Nakajima was commissioned and the gardens were completed in several stages over a 10 year period 1976 – 86.
These days a $10 entry fee gains access to the gardens and cultural centre. You can also waste some money in the souvenir shop or take time to fine dine in the restaurant next door.
I settled for the gardens and cultural centre for today – about an hour snapping some photos outside and afterwards, I found the cultural centre very well presented and quite worthwhile.
I didn’t sign the visitor’s book, but plodded back down the hill for some internet time and a session with my punctured tubes,
The problem with Cathead punctures (which are the ones that I have – please see yesterday’s blog) are that they are so fine, you can’t even see them.
They bubble in water, but after this, you’re lost.
Several attempts and some eye-strain later, 4 tubes were patched and I dedicated the next hour or so to some quality hammock time.
Harry at the sometime bike shop ran some necessary repairs for me overnight and with a full quota of tubes, I am now ready for the Cathead mission to Young tomorrow......
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
DAY 12 - COWRA NSW
COWRA NSW
DAY 12
CANOWINDRA - COWRA
35 km (approx.)
Total Time – 08.00 – 11.15 (3h 15m)
Time on Bike – 1h 55m 38s
Max. speed – 70 km/h (approx.)
Av. Speed - ???
35km isn’t far really.
It’s not.
But here’s how to make it a challenge:
- First pick a route that includes 20 km of protracted uphill climbing.
- Second, on a bike whose makeshift rear derailleur has made its shift and does not behave well at all on 20 km of protracted uphill climbing.
- Thirdly, get 3 flat tyres in the space of 500 meters.
- Fourthly, well….it wasn’t really an effort but I managed to turn a 90 minute ride into a 3.25 hour ordeal. Easy as this.
Still, I got to Cowra all in good time – just not as early as planned.
Now, back to these flat tyres – I need to elaborate on this, as it is far too uncanny to be true.
In over 600 km of riding so far, there hasn’t been a single flat tyre. Not one. This is not a bad record at all. Another 600 km without a flat would be even greater, but not to complain so far.
Sure enough, about 12 km from Cowra the right trailer tyre was first to blow.
Fair enough and 25 minutes later, with problem fixed, onwards to Cowra.
Not even 500 metres hence, stereo hissing from front and rear had me hopping mad.
Very naughty words indeed, but the biggest tantrum ever was not going to get me further towards Cowra.
Double trouble – this time the OTHER trailer tyre AND the left front trike tyre together.
It’s almost a shame all did not go down together in 3-part harmony.
Another 45 minutes and with just a little carry-on, I chose to make a prayer at this time.
It must have worked, as I was in Cowra 30 minutes later.
Now, why exactly had this happened?
Well, I don’t really know, but there some ugly little critters called “Catheads” and they are everywhere in this part of the world.
They don’t breathe, but they are 3-pronged spurs (in the shape of a cat’s head) – something like a noxious weed but it does stand to reason that these are the things that pierced my tyres so.
Why it happened in the space of 500 meters?
I think this part is just bad luck…..
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
DAY 11 - CANOWINDRA NSW
CANOWINDRA NSW
DAY 11
FORBES - CANOWINDRA
85 km (approx.)
Total Time – 07.30 – 13.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 38m 29s
Max. speed – 60 km/h (approx.)
Av. Speed 18 km/h (approx.)
A change of plans today.
Well, 2 changes actually.
The original, original plan was from Forbes to a place called Woodstock.
I had some very attractive accommodation lined up near Woodstock, around which it may have been possible to spend at least a few days.
In the last few days, perhaps a change of heart – mainly the threat of backtracking – and Cowra firmed as a much more practical option.
Riding over 50km along Lachlan Valley Way this morning, I arrived in a town called Gooloogong by 11am.
LVW is an entirely flat, yet quite monotonous stretch of highway along the banks of the Lachlan River and worse still, working into a strong headwind, Gooloogong was a welcome respite.
Even better is that the town is junction between several other locations, Canowindra being but one.
Sitting in the shade with my Mango Weis bar, I immediately entertained the direct route to Canowindra as the ideal gateway to my getaway in Woodstock.
Only 30 km to Canowindra (as against 40 to Cowra) and the same again to Woodstock – it hardly felt like backtracking.
It was now or never, so I downed the remainder of my Weis bar and turned left.
And a better route it was – a little hillier, but infinitely more interesting and the wind dissipated almost immediately.
Canowindra (that’s Ca-nown-dra, NOT Cano-windra) is a small but beautiful town.
Small, but still big enough for 4 pubs.
In fact, I drank at the Royal Hotel this evening. Not a lot, but I still had a drink – and some food – pizza, to elaborate.
And as the evening wore on, I learned that the bushranger Ben Hall had robbed the Royal Hotel, not once, but 3 times.
Impressive.
This is of course, the same Ben Hall that was killed by the police in Forbes and still lies there.
I aired my theory over the bar as to whether bushrangers were in fact 19th century freedom fighters.
No, was the emphatic response – common thieves at best and generally bad eggs.
Ben Hall was a possible exception. He was at least a landowner who got pissed off when the police locked him up for a month for something or other and by the time he got out, the local bob had taken off with his wife.
From then on, it was Ben versus the rest.
Sadly, the rest won and Ben was only 27.
DAY 11
FORBES - CANOWINDRA
85 km (approx.)
Total Time – 07.30 – 13.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 38m 29s
Max. speed – 60 km/h (approx.)
Av. Speed 18 km/h (approx.)
A change of plans today.
Well, 2 changes actually.
The original, original plan was from Forbes to a place called Woodstock.
I had some very attractive accommodation lined up near Woodstock, around which it may have been possible to spend at least a few days.
In the last few days, perhaps a change of heart – mainly the threat of backtracking – and Cowra firmed as a much more practical option.
Riding over 50km along Lachlan Valley Way this morning, I arrived in a town called Gooloogong by 11am.
LVW is an entirely flat, yet quite monotonous stretch of highway along the banks of the Lachlan River and worse still, working into a strong headwind, Gooloogong was a welcome respite.
Even better is that the town is junction between several other locations, Canowindra being but one.
Sitting in the shade with my Mango Weis bar, I immediately entertained the direct route to Canowindra as the ideal gateway to my getaway in Woodstock.
Only 30 km to Canowindra (as against 40 to Cowra) and the same again to Woodstock – it hardly felt like backtracking.
It was now or never, so I downed the remainder of my Weis bar and turned left.
And a better route it was – a little hillier, but infinitely more interesting and the wind dissipated almost immediately.
Canowindra (that’s Ca-nown-dra, NOT Cano-windra) is a small but beautiful town.
Small, but still big enough for 4 pubs.
In fact, I drank at the Royal Hotel this evening. Not a lot, but I still had a drink – and some food – pizza, to elaborate.
And as the evening wore on, I learned that the bushranger Ben Hall had robbed the Royal Hotel, not once, but 3 times.
Impressive.
This is of course, the same Ben Hall that was killed by the police in Forbes and still lies there.
I aired my theory over the bar as to whether bushrangers were in fact 19th century freedom fighters.
No, was the emphatic response – common thieves at best and generally bad eggs.
Ben Hall was a possible exception. He was at least a landowner who got pissed off when the police locked him up for a month for something or other and by the time he got out, the local bob had taken off with his wife.
From then on, it was Ben versus the rest.
Sadly, the rest won and Ben was only 27.
Monday, April 7, 2008
DAY 10 - FORBES NSW
FORBES NSW
DAY 10
No riding today, instead a day about town.
First stop this morning was Forbes Literary Institute (a.k.a “The Library”) for the usual. The internet is free in Forbes.
I was an early arrival, so waited half an hour or so in the adjacent Victoria Park.
And a hive of activity it was – people everywhere, coming and going.
Anyone would think they are a well-read lot, these Forbians, queuing up for the library with such zeal first thing on a Monday morning.
Not quite as it seems, sadly.
You see, the Library and the Court House are next door neighbours in Forbes.
If I’d not known better, I’d have said they were giving away money in there, such was its popularity.
Perhaps the library could join up, in an attempt to increase its patronage?
I sat in that park for about 32 minutes and would say over 100 people came and went in that time – and anyone who didn’t go, hung around.
Not quite half the town, but gee, not far off.
And if any of the conversation that passed my ears was indicative, an ugly mix of alcohol and violence would seem to have accounted for most of the attendees on this particular morning - given that there are approximately 20 pubs in Forbes, this may not come as such a surprise…..
Aside from the legally challenged locals, Forbes is a particularly tidy town.
Not a big regional centre anywhere near the size of Bathurst or Orange, Forbes could very well qualify its existence on picturesque river banks and weeping willows.
The Lachlan River flows right through the middle of Forbes, as it does my next destination Cowra, providing a recreational bonanza for visitors and locals alike.
Fishing is quite popular – the “lake” is loaded with fat carp I’m told. Just drop a line in and you’ll come up with something.
There is also some history about and in accordance with many central western towns, it is highly respected and important to the culture of the region.
Gold was dug up throughout this region during the 1850’s in great seams – a “gold rush” was declared.
Prospectors came from far and wide – even overseas to find their fortunes – many did and left a lot wealthier than when they arrived.
Or else, liked Australia so much and could afford to stay, so they did.
Concurrently, the legend of the “bushranger” evolved – these were Robin Hood-inspired folk who used shotguns instead of bows and arrows.
Some were even known to wear tin buckets on their heads as everyday work attire.
Controversy rages to this day as to whether these people were the freedom fighters of their time or simply common bandits.
I would lean personally toward the common bandit model, however this has not prevented some off their ilk assuming legend status
The Kelly brothers, Ned in particular and one Ben Hall were amongst the elite of their profession.
Ben Hall is buried in Forbes, where he unco-incidentally was shot and killed.
He also has a motel named after him.
DAY 10
No riding today, instead a day about town.
First stop this morning was Forbes Literary Institute (a.k.a “The Library”) for the usual. The internet is free in Forbes.
I was an early arrival, so waited half an hour or so in the adjacent Victoria Park.
And a hive of activity it was – people everywhere, coming and going.
Anyone would think they are a well-read lot, these Forbians, queuing up for the library with such zeal first thing on a Monday morning.
Not quite as it seems, sadly.
You see, the Library and the Court House are next door neighbours in Forbes.
If I’d not known better, I’d have said they were giving away money in there, such was its popularity.
Perhaps the library could join up, in an attempt to increase its patronage?
I sat in that park for about 32 minutes and would say over 100 people came and went in that time – and anyone who didn’t go, hung around.
Not quite half the town, but gee, not far off.
And if any of the conversation that passed my ears was indicative, an ugly mix of alcohol and violence would seem to have accounted for most of the attendees on this particular morning - given that there are approximately 20 pubs in Forbes, this may not come as such a surprise…..
Aside from the legally challenged locals, Forbes is a particularly tidy town.
Not a big regional centre anywhere near the size of Bathurst or Orange, Forbes could very well qualify its existence on picturesque river banks and weeping willows.
The Lachlan River flows right through the middle of Forbes, as it does my next destination Cowra, providing a recreational bonanza for visitors and locals alike.
Fishing is quite popular – the “lake” is loaded with fat carp I’m told. Just drop a line in and you’ll come up with something.
There is also some history about and in accordance with many central western towns, it is highly respected and important to the culture of the region.
Gold was dug up throughout this region during the 1850’s in great seams – a “gold rush” was declared.
Prospectors came from far and wide – even overseas to find their fortunes – many did and left a lot wealthier than when they arrived.
Or else, liked Australia so much and could afford to stay, so they did.
Concurrently, the legend of the “bushranger” evolved – these were Robin Hood-inspired folk who used shotguns instead of bows and arrows.
Some were even known to wear tin buckets on their heads as everyday work attire.
Controversy rages to this day as to whether these people were the freedom fighters of their time or simply common bandits.
I would lean personally toward the common bandit model, however this has not prevented some off their ilk assuming legend status
The Kelly brothers, Ned in particular and one Ben Hall were amongst the elite of their profession.
Ben Hall is buried in Forbes, where he unco-incidentally was shot and killed.
He also has a motel named after him.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
DAY 9 - FORBES NSW
FORBES NSW
DAY 9
ORANGE – FORBES
120 km (approx.)
Total Time – 07.00 – 13.00 (6h)
Time on Bike – 4h 56m 30s
Max. speed – 70 km/h ++ (approx.)
Av. Speed - 21 km/h (approx.)
Best ride of the trip today folks.
Superb.
Not only was downhill predominant, but there was also a genuine tailwind for the first time and some wonderful Central West scenery to boot.
After a week of pedalling uphill, I think I deserved it.
First of all though, I extend a very big thank you to the Toms and Newcombe families in Orange for 2 days of very comfortable hospitality, and of course the use of a car yesterday.
I resume once again fully fed and rested and ready for what lies ahead.
Now back to today.
I wheeled out of Orange just after 7 am, with the prospect of 120 kilometres to be covered in order to reach my set destination of Forbes.
Topography alone suggested that from 900 meters above sea level, the Lachlan River would not likely be any further elevated than this and by rights I would surely be enjoying some extended downhill flying.
Evidence from the last 120 day would still have me on the road 12 hours later and with Daylight Savings now at an end until October, my intention was certainly not in favour of a repeat effort.
An early start was a good start and after some steep initial climbs out of Orange, I was away with conditions firming in my favour the further I went along.
Cudal marked 40 kilometres and it was behind me by 9 am.
With some plentiful downhill finally coming my way and a healthy tailwind on board, the only thing set to slow me was the odd curious local stopping me the middle of the highway for Sunday morning chat.
I’d made 80 kilometres by 11 am and with an extended 20 minute rester in Eugowra, Forbes for lunch was now a formality.
Of the 36 kilometres west of Eugowra, 30 of them were dead pan flat, making for a sure lunch date and early shower in Forbes.
So, with a designated camp in the town of Forbes, I shall set about on some explorations tomorrow with the next ride now planned for Tuesday.
NB. In attempting to adjust the time for the end of Daylight Savings on my on-board computer this morning, I successfully reset the entire unit, meaning it will need to be re-calibrated at the earliest possible convenience and statistics for the next few rides will unfortunately be “guesstimations” at best. Sorry.
DAY 9
ORANGE – FORBES
120 km (approx.)
Total Time – 07.00 – 13.00 (6h)
Time on Bike – 4h 56m 30s
Max. speed – 70 km/h ++ (approx.)
Av. Speed - 21 km/h (approx.)
Best ride of the trip today folks.
Superb.
Not only was downhill predominant, but there was also a genuine tailwind for the first time and some wonderful Central West scenery to boot.
After a week of pedalling uphill, I think I deserved it.
First of all though, I extend a very big thank you to the Toms and Newcombe families in Orange for 2 days of very comfortable hospitality, and of course the use of a car yesterday.
I resume once again fully fed and rested and ready for what lies ahead.
Now back to today.
I wheeled out of Orange just after 7 am, with the prospect of 120 kilometres to be covered in order to reach my set destination of Forbes.
Topography alone suggested that from 900 meters above sea level, the Lachlan River would not likely be any further elevated than this and by rights I would surely be enjoying some extended downhill flying.
Evidence from the last 120 day would still have me on the road 12 hours later and with Daylight Savings now at an end until October, my intention was certainly not in favour of a repeat effort.
An early start was a good start and after some steep initial climbs out of Orange, I was away with conditions firming in my favour the further I went along.
Cudal marked 40 kilometres and it was behind me by 9 am.
With some plentiful downhill finally coming my way and a healthy tailwind on board, the only thing set to slow me was the odd curious local stopping me the middle of the highway for Sunday morning chat.
I’d made 80 kilometres by 11 am and with an extended 20 minute rester in Eugowra, Forbes for lunch was now a formality.
Of the 36 kilometres west of Eugowra, 30 of them were dead pan flat, making for a sure lunch date and early shower in Forbes.
So, with a designated camp in the town of Forbes, I shall set about on some explorations tomorrow with the next ride now planned for Tuesday.
NB. In attempting to adjust the time for the end of Daylight Savings on my on-board computer this morning, I successfully reset the entire unit, meaning it will need to be re-calibrated at the earliest possible convenience and statistics for the next few rides will unfortunately be “guesstimations” at best. Sorry.
Saturday, April 5, 2008
DAY 8 - ORANGE NSW
ORANGE NSW
DAY 8
REST DAY
60 km (Hyundai)
I got a car today, courtesy of my hosts in Orange and a good thing too, as I got to some places that would not have been practical on the bike.
First up were the Orange Botanic Gardens – not exactly a rush of adrenaline fuelled exhilaration, but a quiet hour or so of meditative reflection on the trip so far.
Next up, the impressive Mt Canobolas, which sits up 4500 ft off the floor of the plain, was also made possible with the use of a car.
Unfortunately, the Canobolas summit is peppered with a small city of oversized communications towers, but I still made a point of driving to the top and surveying the surrounding landscape – specifically for signs of massive mountain ranges (or else lusciously flat plains) in the direction I will next be headed.
Forbes is the next destination and the news may or may not be good.
In theory, the trip should be downhill – from 900 m above sea level to the bed of the Lachlan River. 120-odd kilometres tomorrow should deliver the verdict…..
Penultimate stop for the day was a lazy hour or so at Lake Canobolas (not far from Mt Canobolas by much at all) and finally some obligatory tastings at some of many fine local wineries…..
DAY 8
REST DAY
60 km (Hyundai)
I got a car today, courtesy of my hosts in Orange and a good thing too, as I got to some places that would not have been practical on the bike.
First up were the Orange Botanic Gardens – not exactly a rush of adrenaline fuelled exhilaration, but a quiet hour or so of meditative reflection on the trip so far.
Next up, the impressive Mt Canobolas, which sits up 4500 ft off the floor of the plain, was also made possible with the use of a car.
Unfortunately, the Canobolas summit is peppered with a small city of oversized communications towers, but I still made a point of driving to the top and surveying the surrounding landscape – specifically for signs of massive mountain ranges (or else lusciously flat plains) in the direction I will next be headed.
Forbes is the next destination and the news may or may not be good.
In theory, the trip should be downhill – from 900 m above sea level to the bed of the Lachlan River. 120-odd kilometres tomorrow should deliver the verdict…..
Penultimate stop for the day was a lazy hour or so at Lake Canobolas (not far from Mt Canobolas by much at all) and finally some obligatory tastings at some of many fine local wineries…..
Friday, April 4, 2008
DAY 7 - ORANGE NSW
ORANGE NSW
BATHURST - ORANGE
64.55 Km
Total Time – 08.30 – 12.30 (4h 00m)
Time on Bike – 3h 27m 53s
Max. speed – 72.6 km/h
Av. Speed - 18.6 km/h
I’m beginning to feel a bit like Jack and the Beanstalk.
With a general lack of local knowledge, it has been easy to presume that once the Blue Mountains are crossed west of Sydney, then everything becomes either downhill or at best pretty flat.
The Great Western Highway between Lithgow and Bathurst passes over a 1200 m section of the Great Dividing Range, but there is pay dirt, with a nice 20 km descent into Bathurst, which lies on a fairly flat alluvial plain.
If I’d done a little more research, then I may have known that Orange is almost 1000 m above sea level and from those flat Bathurst plains, you’ve gotta get up here somehow.
I spent 12km and nearly 2 hours climbing the Rocks Pass today, searching for the downhill that never came.
Not that it’s heavily strenuous – just mighty slow and just a little frustrating.
The days’ statistics are actually quite flattering, considering, and the countryside along the way, quite beautiful.
Even better was the cold westerly that has been lashing the Central West for 3 days abated overnight and if anything, swung around today and was giving me a gentle push.
I’ll be staying here in Orange for a couple of days with family friends and rumour has it that I may even have the use of a car tomorrow…..
BATHURST - ORANGE
64.55 Km
Total Time – 08.30 – 12.30 (4h 00m)
Time on Bike – 3h 27m 53s
Max. speed – 72.6 km/h
Av. Speed - 18.6 km/h
I’m beginning to feel a bit like Jack and the Beanstalk.
With a general lack of local knowledge, it has been easy to presume that once the Blue Mountains are crossed west of Sydney, then everything becomes either downhill or at best pretty flat.
The Great Western Highway between Lithgow and Bathurst passes over a 1200 m section of the Great Dividing Range, but there is pay dirt, with a nice 20 km descent into Bathurst, which lies on a fairly flat alluvial plain.
If I’d done a little more research, then I may have known that Orange is almost 1000 m above sea level and from those flat Bathurst plains, you’ve gotta get up here somehow.
I spent 12km and nearly 2 hours climbing the Rocks Pass today, searching for the downhill that never came.
Not that it’s heavily strenuous – just mighty slow and just a little frustrating.
The days’ statistics are actually quite flattering, considering, and the countryside along the way, quite beautiful.
Even better was the cold westerly that has been lashing the Central West for 3 days abated overnight and if anything, swung around today and was giving me a gentle push.
I’ll be staying here in Orange for a couple of days with family friends and rumour has it that I may even have the use of a car tomorrow…..
Thursday, April 3, 2008
DAY 6 - BATHURST NSW
BATHURST NSW
DAY 6
BATHURST & MOUNT PANORAMA
41.7 Km
Total Time – 10.00 – 14.30 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike – 2h 10m 38s
Max. speed – 87.6 km/h!!!
(The new Low Rider Speed Record)
Av. Speed 19.2 km/h
I went racing this morning.
Not against anything but my own speed record.
And I won!
87.6 km/h is now the new benchmark and of all places to have done it – Conrod Straight at Mount Panorama – one of the fastest and most famous strips of tarmac on the planet.
My previous best of 86.3 has been eclipsed by a whole 1.3 km/h.
Mount Panorama itself is a world-famous Aussie icon – even if you couldn’t care a fig and half for car racing – the Mountain has an aura of greatness.
And taking the bike around for 2 circuits this morning was just wicked.
To have watched it on television for many years and even having completed circuits on a tour bus does not convey how steep and treacherous the track actually is.
Sure, the top racing speeds are impressive at 300 km/h ++, but the real soul of the circuit (aside from the incredible scenery) are the tight, steep drop-away curves and the impossible inclinations up the side of the mountain.
To come raging over the Skyline at top speed and then to just see the road disappear underneath you…..
Anyway, as fun as it was, there is more to Bathurst than just a racing track.
It is an impressive town, Bathurst.
Not just another hicko small town with a bit of history and some nice scenery.
There is actually something going on here.
It’s a big college town, for starters so the vibe around town is a young one.
There’s a tonne of history - mainly from the 1850's gold rushes - and unlike a lot of other places in Australia, you can actually feel it in Bathurst – in the architecture, the gardens and the culture.
Outside of Europe, Melbourne and Bathurst have the most impressive green spaces in an Australian urban area that I’ve experienced. (Not including National Parks or Botanic Gardens)
The effort has been made to preserve the heritage in Bathurst – it is important to the culture of the region. And whilst I’m sure the locals find reasons to complain, for the outsider it’s one of the first things to be noticed.
My experiences in Bathurst date back to the early 1980’s and to Abercrombie House – a famous Bathurst estate that is still owned by the founder of my former junior school.
Each year, we would board a stinky noisy bus and take a compulsory week-long excursion out into the countryside to stay in the rat-infested dorms at Abercrombie.
It’s been 25 years, but after taking a trundle out there this afternoon, I’d reckon absolutely nothing has changed in this time……
DAY 6
BATHURST & MOUNT PANORAMA
41.7 Km
Total Time – 10.00 – 14.30 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike – 2h 10m 38s
Max. speed – 87.6 km/h!!!
(The new Low Rider Speed Record)
Av. Speed 19.2 km/h
I went racing this morning.
Not against anything but my own speed record.
And I won!
87.6 km/h is now the new benchmark and of all places to have done it – Conrod Straight at Mount Panorama – one of the fastest and most famous strips of tarmac on the planet.
My previous best of 86.3 has been eclipsed by a whole 1.3 km/h.
Mount Panorama itself is a world-famous Aussie icon – even if you couldn’t care a fig and half for car racing – the Mountain has an aura of greatness.
And taking the bike around for 2 circuits this morning was just wicked.
To have watched it on television for many years and even having completed circuits on a tour bus does not convey how steep and treacherous the track actually is.
Sure, the top racing speeds are impressive at 300 km/h ++, but the real soul of the circuit (aside from the incredible scenery) are the tight, steep drop-away curves and the impossible inclinations up the side of the mountain.
To come raging over the Skyline at top speed and then to just see the road disappear underneath you…..
Anyway, as fun as it was, there is more to Bathurst than just a racing track.
It is an impressive town, Bathurst.
Not just another hicko small town with a bit of history and some nice scenery.
There is actually something going on here.
It’s a big college town, for starters so the vibe around town is a young one.
There’s a tonne of history - mainly from the 1850's gold rushes - and unlike a lot of other places in Australia, you can actually feel it in Bathurst – in the architecture, the gardens and the culture.
Outside of Europe, Melbourne and Bathurst have the most impressive green spaces in an Australian urban area that I’ve experienced. (Not including National Parks or Botanic Gardens)
The effort has been made to preserve the heritage in Bathurst – it is important to the culture of the region. And whilst I’m sure the locals find reasons to complain, for the outsider it’s one of the first things to be noticed.
My experiences in Bathurst date back to the early 1980’s and to Abercrombie House – a famous Bathurst estate that is still owned by the founder of my former junior school.
Each year, we would board a stinky noisy bus and take a compulsory week-long excursion out into the countryside to stay in the rat-infested dorms at Abercrombie.
It’s been 25 years, but after taking a trundle out there this afternoon, I’d reckon absolutely nothing has changed in this time……
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
DAY 5 - BATHURST NSW
BATHURST NSW
DAY 5
LITHGOW - BATHURST
83.11 Km
Total Time – 08.40 – 16.10 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 34m 57s
Max. speed – 77.4 km/h
Av. Speed 18.1 km/h
Something happened today.
As unfathomable as it may have been, I so nearly got on a train and came back to Sydney.
I know in my heart that it wasn’t because I had the shits and was just about to give up so soon.
Not at all.
It’s just that I was confronted with a problem that seemed to literally have no solution and given that it was not able to be solved, there was no other way of continuing.
Had things come to this, it would not have been game over – just a major setback and well…..
With the bike back in working order, the trailer was also due some attention as it is just as important for this to be working as one with the bike.
Each step of the process offered an improvement but delivered nothing.
I could see there was something wrong – back to front - with this stupid piece of aluminium on wheels and this was the fundamental problem.
Bad design or maybe the wrong piece of equipment altogether – an impasse was at hand.
Stuck in Lithgow and going nowhere – except with a one-way ticket to Sydney in my mouth, fuddling this way and that on the platform with my troublesome equipment.
The longer I looked at it, the more I could see what was wrong – IT was wrong, but what to do about it?
Sure enough, returning to my buddies at Insane Cycles down the way and telling them what I thought was wrong.
Could they fix it? It wasn’t conventional, but still worth a shot.
10 minutes later, hey presto – it might just have worked. Pretty Zen, but Bathurst was still on. I had to give it a go.
Back up to the train station pleading my case and a full refund was granted. I didn’t need to go back to Sydney after all.
And the bike and trailer just sung through to Bathurst.
DAY 5
LITHGOW - BATHURST
83.11 Km
Total Time – 08.40 – 16.10 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike – 4h 34m 57s
Max. speed – 77.4 km/h
Av. Speed 18.1 km/h
Something happened today.
As unfathomable as it may have been, I so nearly got on a train and came back to Sydney.
I know in my heart that it wasn’t because I had the shits and was just about to give up so soon.
Not at all.
It’s just that I was confronted with a problem that seemed to literally have no solution and given that it was not able to be solved, there was no other way of continuing.
Had things come to this, it would not have been game over – just a major setback and well…..
With the bike back in working order, the trailer was also due some attention as it is just as important for this to be working as one with the bike.
Each step of the process offered an improvement but delivered nothing.
I could see there was something wrong – back to front - with this stupid piece of aluminium on wheels and this was the fundamental problem.
Bad design or maybe the wrong piece of equipment altogether – an impasse was at hand.
Stuck in Lithgow and going nowhere – except with a one-way ticket to Sydney in my mouth, fuddling this way and that on the platform with my troublesome equipment.
The longer I looked at it, the more I could see what was wrong – IT was wrong, but what to do about it?
Sure enough, returning to my buddies at Insane Cycles down the way and telling them what I thought was wrong.
Could they fix it? It wasn’t conventional, but still worth a shot.
10 minutes later, hey presto – it might just have worked. Pretty Zen, but Bathurst was still on. I had to give it a go.
Back up to the train station pleading my case and a full refund was granted. I didn’t need to go back to Sydney after all.
And the bike and trailer just sung through to Bathurst.
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
DAY 4 - LITHGOW NSW
LITHGOW NSW
DAY 4
REST DAY
I woke this morning with Elephantitis in my lower lip and my right eye half closed.
Normally, I would need to have picked a fight with someone a lot bigger and meaner to earn these trophies, but no such melodrama, I’m afraid.
To be truthful, I really don’t know why my face had suddenly taken on this unusual complexion, but suspect the sun, wind and general dirtiness of life on the road had just got the better of me and this is way it chose to express itself.
Either way the signals were there, and it was time for a rest.
Lithgow wasn’t exactly the location I had in mind, but I have made the most of it.
Firstly, I took the opportunity to get the brakes on the bike fixed and they are now of required snappiness for the ride to Bathurst.
Secondly, it was time to attend to an issue of packing obesity and remove some excess weight from my groaning trailer bag.
There is a reason why the trailer has been bottoming out all-too-regularly and I’m hoping this will at least address the problem in the short term.
The bag I posted back to Sydney today weighed nearly 3 kg – life is difficult enough and I do not believe I will miss whatever was in it.
These are the things that needed to be done and with them out of the way, I afforded myself a few hours to engage my surroundings.
Lithgow is a very quiet and unremarkable town and this is the longest I have ever spent here.
Don’t get me wrong, it is quite nice – surrounded by rolling hills and a crisp, clear but very dry climate – cheap for Real Estate too, if that’s what you’re into.
$150 000 will acquire a spacious 3-bedder house with a tin roof and no more than 5 minutes from the action.
If you have no real problem with everything closing at 8 pm or no particular desire for a 6-figure salary, then Lithgow may indeed be the lifestyle alternative for you.
In 2008, the glory of mining wealth is long past and I am fairly sure the Small Arms factory is now a museum.
Most local folk survive most likely by farming or by working along the main commercial strip in town and there would also be a certain breed who commutes to Sydney on a daily basis.
Slow but sure, Lithgow trundles on, tucked away safely in its little valley behind the Blue Mountains and generally accepting its place in the big wide world.
Anyway, thanks Lithgow and I’ll never say a bad word about you again.
DAY 4
REST DAY
I woke this morning with Elephantitis in my lower lip and my right eye half closed.
Normally, I would need to have picked a fight with someone a lot bigger and meaner to earn these trophies, but no such melodrama, I’m afraid.
To be truthful, I really don’t know why my face had suddenly taken on this unusual complexion, but suspect the sun, wind and general dirtiness of life on the road had just got the better of me and this is way it chose to express itself.
Either way the signals were there, and it was time for a rest.
Lithgow wasn’t exactly the location I had in mind, but I have made the most of it.
Firstly, I took the opportunity to get the brakes on the bike fixed and they are now of required snappiness for the ride to Bathurst.
Secondly, it was time to attend to an issue of packing obesity and remove some excess weight from my groaning trailer bag.
There is a reason why the trailer has been bottoming out all-too-regularly and I’m hoping this will at least address the problem in the short term.
The bag I posted back to Sydney today weighed nearly 3 kg – life is difficult enough and I do not believe I will miss whatever was in it.
These are the things that needed to be done and with them out of the way, I afforded myself a few hours to engage my surroundings.
Lithgow is a very quiet and unremarkable town and this is the longest I have ever spent here.
Don’t get me wrong, it is quite nice – surrounded by rolling hills and a crisp, clear but very dry climate – cheap for Real Estate too, if that’s what you’re into.
$150 000 will acquire a spacious 3-bedder house with a tin roof and no more than 5 minutes from the action.
If you have no real problem with everything closing at 8 pm or no particular desire for a 6-figure salary, then Lithgow may indeed be the lifestyle alternative for you.
In 2008, the glory of mining wealth is long past and I am fairly sure the Small Arms factory is now a museum.
Most local folk survive most likely by farming or by working along the main commercial strip in town and there would also be a certain breed who commutes to Sydney on a daily basis.
Slow but sure, Lithgow trundles on, tucked away safely in its little valley behind the Blue Mountains and generally accepting its place in the big wide world.
Anyway, thanks Lithgow and I’ll never say a bad word about you again.
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