PORT LINCOLN SA
DAY 63
Whalers Way, Fur Seals, Cape Carnot Blowhole, Theakstone Cravasse, Lincoln Night Trails.
And thanks to Jeff for taking me out and allowing me to enjoy all these Port Lincoln experiences.
The past 48 hours have unfolded in a completely unique and unexpected way.
There can be no amount of planning that can account for the way things like this turn out and it is exactly what makes life interesting.
It is also what attracts me to the idea of becoming a professional traveller although this may be a way off just yet.
A day's excursion to the privately owned Whalers Way is an uncommon travel experience - mainly because you do in fact need a permit to access the area - but also because Port Lincoln in general is not a major attraction on the radar of many travellers.
For the sake of Lincoln iteslf, this probably needs to change - but for anyone who should make the effort to come and explore one the southernmost points on the world map, then it is pure bonanza.
Whalers Way is part of an area mapped out by the 18th century explorer Matthew Flinders and a lot of what he came across features throughout the sanctuary.
Massive 400 ft sawtoothed limestone cliffs, desert islands, cravasses, caves, bays, beaches, blowholes, fur seal colonies and incredibly powerful rock formations litter the small but wild strip of coastline that has been carved by centuries of extremity in the Great Southern Ocean.
On location nearby also is one of Australia's biggest wind farms - perfectly situated on a west-facing bluff to capture enough kilo-giga-watts to power the entire Eyre Peninsula - and if exploited effectively, would surely power all of South Australia and beyond.
It is but a grand vision at present, although with 36 working operational mills, it should be at the very least considered a big green step in the right direction.....
It is difficult however, not to wonder how much longer this beautiful area can remain as naturally powerful and untouched as it is.
Tourism would bring in good dollars for certain, but with booming tuna farms and grain exports, Lincoln is not exactly struggling for survival.
As much as it is generally a shame for people to bypass it, Lincoln can probably afford to let everyone keep believing they are getting their money's worth on the Great Ocean Road and gloating for days after seeing the 12 Apostles and London Bridge.
I personally reckon they have something more impressive, even though the tourist brochures maybe aren't quite up to speed just yet.
After a day of clifftop marvelling and world-class oceanscapes, Jeff then had me tag along for the experience of a Port Lincoln nightride - cutting across the leg-burning hillsides and backtracks of Lincoln's topography and finishing up along the soon to be bicycling-integrated Parnkalla Trail.
The "Peninsula Pedallers" collective have in just these past 2 days, made a successful submission to Lincoln Council for a comprehensive upgrade of said trail as well a more user-compatible completion of the existing bike lane into Port Lincoln, which would ideally eliminate the need for any roadside death within the city limits.
I had already formed the opinion that the entry into Lincoln was one of the friendlier I have expereienced on this trip, but it is something of an inspiration that a small group of locals are actually lobbying at local government level to make it even better.
To initate similar action in my own backyard I can only regard as a distant fantasy, although I believe that one should never say never.
I also believe that one should choose one's battles with discernment.
Of course Sydney could learn something from Port Lincoln but this sadly remains in about the same likelihood of an Indigenous Australian becoming a Prime Minister.....
I will depart for Coffin Bay tomorrow morning.
Friday, May 30, 2008
Thursday, May 29, 2008
DAY 62 - PORT LINCOLN SA
PORT LINCOLN SA
DAY 62
36.31 km
Total Time: 09.45 – 17.45 (8h)
Time on Bike: 2h 26m 32s
Max. Speed: 43.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 14.9 km/h
A day of twisted fate and incidental meetings has resulted in a significant shift from my outset plan.
The complication of events does not bear description in this space but the net conclusion is that my stay in Port Lincoln is now extended to at least Saturday.
I have been afforded the very best of hospitality by a group of local fanatics from a collective known as “Peninsula Pedallers” and am now staying at the residence of one of their number – a lady by the name of Raylene.
Dinner tonight was conducted at the home of another one of their number – a man by the name of Jeff – and all afternoon cutting some bay side trails with anyone who had the urge to come along.
Tomorrow is a promise of further surprises, so it is not my job to pre-empt anything at this young stage.
Lincoln is a particularly beautiful location – there is nothing to dispute about this – so I am gaining a great deal of privilege to be sharing in this experience.
There is everything to gain and nothing to lose from here onwards and I am also enjoying some respite from the cycle of “tent up/tent down” that has been prevalent for the majority of my time on the road.
5 nights straight without pitching is a record for this trip.
To have slept comfortably in a proper bed for those nights has been even more refreshing and I am not minding in the least the thought of getting back into my little yellow hutch when the time comes.
For now I am just trying to let the happiness of events settle within me.
Hopefully, this will take place soon enough and I may be able to report from the town of Lincoln in greater detail.
DAY 62
36.31 km
Total Time: 09.45 – 17.45 (8h)
Time on Bike: 2h 26m 32s
Max. Speed: 43.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 14.9 km/h
A day of twisted fate and incidental meetings has resulted in a significant shift from my outset plan.
The complication of events does not bear description in this space but the net conclusion is that my stay in Port Lincoln is now extended to at least Saturday.
I have been afforded the very best of hospitality by a group of local fanatics from a collective known as “Peninsula Pedallers” and am now staying at the residence of one of their number – a lady by the name of Raylene.
Dinner tonight was conducted at the home of another one of their number – a man by the name of Jeff – and all afternoon cutting some bay side trails with anyone who had the urge to come along.
Tomorrow is a promise of further surprises, so it is not my job to pre-empt anything at this young stage.
Lincoln is a particularly beautiful location – there is nothing to dispute about this – so I am gaining a great deal of privilege to be sharing in this experience.
There is everything to gain and nothing to lose from here onwards and I am also enjoying some respite from the cycle of “tent up/tent down” that has been prevalent for the majority of my time on the road.
5 nights straight without pitching is a record for this trip.
To have slept comfortably in a proper bed for those nights has been even more refreshing and I am not minding in the least the thought of getting back into my little yellow hutch when the time comes.
For now I am just trying to let the happiness of events settle within me.
Hopefully, this will take place soon enough and I may be able to report from the town of Lincoln in greater detail.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
DAY 61 - PORT LINCOLN SA
PORT LINCOLN SA
DAY 61
TUMBY BAY – PORT LINCOLN
58.93 km
Total Time: 08.45 – 13.30 (4h 45m)
Time on Bike: 3h 06m 35s
Max. Speed: 61.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.9 km/h
Port Lincoln makes the claim of being Australia’s Seafood Capital.
This is just a little misleading for account of the fact that there is every chance that it is indeed Australia’s fishing capital.
The reality is however, that most of what gets caught isn’t anywhere to be found along the main promenade of Port Lincoln.
It is basically shipped off to the East Asian archipelago as soon as it is caught and the locals are loving it.
Lincoln has a noticeably strong economy and some rather supreme real estate hangs off the side of the surrounding hills with accompanying world class views across beautiful Boston Bay and beyond.
It is certainly a nice corner of the world, no matter what your preferences.
And after conquering 330 kilometres of the Lincoln Highway, the final 10 into the local capital finally delivered on my dream to cling dramatically to the shoreline within metres of the deep blue and bring back those Big Sur memories.
I also almost got run over today.
The would-be-murderer was a caravan-hauling Grey Nomad menace, undermining in a moment the so far impeccable record of all others of the ilk.
Such a shame really, and as veritably pissed off as I was, it was close enough to the wind to embrace the day in the knowledge that everything is still intact.
It may also be no small coincidence that I am actually sharing digs with the B-Double driver who was travelling directly behind at the time and witnessed the incident unfold, in lieu of being an accessory to highway manslaughter…..
It is a one-nighter only in the town of Lincoln, courtesy of the bay side Boston Hotel and an onwards pedal to destination Coffin Bay tomorrow.
DAY 61
TUMBY BAY – PORT LINCOLN
58.93 km
Total Time: 08.45 – 13.30 (4h 45m)
Time on Bike: 3h 06m 35s
Max. Speed: 61.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.9 km/h
Port Lincoln makes the claim of being Australia’s Seafood Capital.
This is just a little misleading for account of the fact that there is every chance that it is indeed Australia’s fishing capital.
The reality is however, that most of what gets caught isn’t anywhere to be found along the main promenade of Port Lincoln.
It is basically shipped off to the East Asian archipelago as soon as it is caught and the locals are loving it.
Lincoln has a noticeably strong economy and some rather supreme real estate hangs off the side of the surrounding hills with accompanying world class views across beautiful Boston Bay and beyond.
It is certainly a nice corner of the world, no matter what your preferences.
And after conquering 330 kilometres of the Lincoln Highway, the final 10 into the local capital finally delivered on my dream to cling dramatically to the shoreline within metres of the deep blue and bring back those Big Sur memories.
I also almost got run over today.
The would-be-murderer was a caravan-hauling Grey Nomad menace, undermining in a moment the so far impeccable record of all others of the ilk.
Such a shame really, and as veritably pissed off as I was, it was close enough to the wind to embrace the day in the knowledge that everything is still intact.
It may also be no small coincidence that I am actually sharing digs with the B-Double driver who was travelling directly behind at the time and witnessed the incident unfold, in lieu of being an accessory to highway manslaughter…..
It is a one-nighter only in the town of Lincoln, courtesy of the bay side Boston Hotel and an onwards pedal to destination Coffin Bay tomorrow.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
DAY 60 - TUMBY BAY SA
TUMBY BAY SA
DAY 60
Of every meteorological possibility, clear sunny hours were least likely today, but this is what arrived.
I could have ridden but didn’t.
In fact, I didn’t do much at all today.
It was a quiet and relaxing day.
Not so bad once in a while.
Back on the bike tomorrow.
DAY 60
Of every meteorological possibility, clear sunny hours were least likely today, but this is what arrived.
I could have ridden but didn’t.
In fact, I didn’t do much at all today.
It was a quiet and relaxing day.
Not so bad once in a while.
Back on the bike tomorrow.
Monday, May 26, 2008
DAY 59 - TUMBY BAY SA
TUMBY BAY SA
DAY 59
PORT NEILL – TUMBY BAY
47.35 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 12.30 (3h 30m)
Time on Bike: 2h 37m 15s
Max. Speed: 38.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.1 km/h
A 2-hour electrical storm escorted me into Tumby Bay and there may or may not be more on the way.
I have booked into the local pub for 2 days so will be staying again tomorrow.
For $8 more than camping in the rain, I’m sleeping in a bed and have a balcony overlooking the bay, no less.
And a few waterlogged items should be ready to roll again by Wednesday.
Good money is on more rain for tomorrow, so I’m feeling the decision to stay will pay up.
Tumby is worth an extra day anyway, just because it is too nice.
The bay here is a special and I’m starting to feel like I’m on vacation.
Yes, there is a big difference between travelling and just kicking back on a holiday and the gap is slightly narrower around here.
It has all been pre-empted of course, by the last few days coming south from Whyalla.
Each stop has moved in a little closer to one fat, rambling fishing trip.
I still haven’t caught anything but I’m making a point of eating up big style.
At least dangling the line each afternoon is removing a portion of the guilt, but what else is there to do if the little buggers won’t bite?
In fact, they were biting this afternoon but nothing big enough to care about.
Still, where there are little ones, big ones are sure to follow.
I’m wishing so anyhow.
DAY 59
PORT NEILL – TUMBY BAY
47.35 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 12.30 (3h 30m)
Time on Bike: 2h 37m 15s
Max. Speed: 38.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.1 km/h
A 2-hour electrical storm escorted me into Tumby Bay and there may or may not be more on the way.
I have booked into the local pub for 2 days so will be staying again tomorrow.
For $8 more than camping in the rain, I’m sleeping in a bed and have a balcony overlooking the bay, no less.
And a few waterlogged items should be ready to roll again by Wednesday.
Good money is on more rain for tomorrow, so I’m feeling the decision to stay will pay up.
Tumby is worth an extra day anyway, just because it is too nice.
The bay here is a special and I’m starting to feel like I’m on vacation.
Yes, there is a big difference between travelling and just kicking back on a holiday and the gap is slightly narrower around here.
It has all been pre-empted of course, by the last few days coming south from Whyalla.
Each stop has moved in a little closer to one fat, rambling fishing trip.
I still haven’t caught anything but I’m making a point of eating up big style.
At least dangling the line each afternoon is removing a portion of the guilt, but what else is there to do if the little buggers won’t bite?
In fact, they were biting this afternoon but nothing big enough to care about.
Still, where there are little ones, big ones are sure to follow.
I’m wishing so anyhow.
Sunday, May 25, 2008
DAY 58 - PORT NEILL SA
PORT NEILL SA
DAY 58
ARNO BAY – PORT NEILL
40.33 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 12.10 (2h 40m)
Time on Bike: 2h 29m 44s
Max. Speed: 38 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.1 km/h
Sorry, this is the first post for some time.
A Universal conspiracy has been in place against any Internet connection for about a week – long days on the road, one-horse towns, strange opening hours, obscure computer software – I’ve had it all.
Anyway, the road goes on and I have reached the deathly quiet but oddly appealing fishing village of Port Neill.
It comes across as not much more than a shanty town, with the familiar attractions of a local pub, general store, Caravan Park and possibly the longest jetty on the Eyre Peninsula.
I negotiated a fairly forgettable 40 kilometre section of the Lincoln Highway this morning.
Probably 30 of these were a slow uphill slog and probably 20 of these again were into a headwind.
Quite perplexing for a stretch of road that is never more than 6 km from the coast…..
I push on to Tumby Bay tomorrow morning and am still yet to hook up an ocean feed.
Nothing whatsoever again this afternoon, although it is on good recommendation that a after-hours night session could reap a veritable harvest.
Problem being, that unless for immediate consumption, it is not likely to travel well.
I’ll just have to keep working my luck in the daylight hours and all results will be posted in good time.
DAY 58
ARNO BAY – PORT NEILL
40.33 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 12.10 (2h 40m)
Time on Bike: 2h 29m 44s
Max. Speed: 38 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.1 km/h
Sorry, this is the first post for some time.
A Universal conspiracy has been in place against any Internet connection for about a week – long days on the road, one-horse towns, strange opening hours, obscure computer software – I’ve had it all.
Anyway, the road goes on and I have reached the deathly quiet but oddly appealing fishing village of Port Neill.
It comes across as not much more than a shanty town, with the familiar attractions of a local pub, general store, Caravan Park and possibly the longest jetty on the Eyre Peninsula.
I negotiated a fairly forgettable 40 kilometre section of the Lincoln Highway this morning.
Probably 30 of these were a slow uphill slog and probably 20 of these again were into a headwind.
Quite perplexing for a stretch of road that is never more than 6 km from the coast…..
I push on to Tumby Bay tomorrow morning and am still yet to hook up an ocean feed.
Nothing whatsoever again this afternoon, although it is on good recommendation that a after-hours night session could reap a veritable harvest.
Problem being, that unless for immediate consumption, it is not likely to travel well.
I’ll just have to keep working my luck in the daylight hours and all results will be posted in good time.
DAY 57 - ARNO BAY SA
ARNO BAY SA
DAY 57
I am feeling generally like a spoiled little brat in Arno Bay.
Such a shame life can’t be one continuous day like this one, although much of what I have experienced here is not so much about the place as about the people.
Caravan parks are funny old places at the best of times.
Not unlike hostels in that you get a collective of humans out of their routines (often travellers great distances from home) and this in itself can make for interesting connections.
It is rare a thing though, when somehow you feel as though you are the centre of attention in a particular place.
Not so much the centre of attention as that everyone knows who you are and even scarier, knows where you’ve been and what you’ve been doing – up to several weeks previously.
Soon enough word gets out about you and your story and people have started filling in the gaps and know things you haven’t even told them, just by talking to everybody else.
Things are then being done for you – not in a mothering kind of way but gifts that are bestowed from above.
I’m not embarrassed at the end of it all.
It’s just good to know that people can do things for others that they don’t need to but maybe just because they want to.
So what am I referring to in all of this?
Let’s just say for example that I’ve fed out on fish today without casting a line or spending any money.
And let’s also just say for another example that I am now set up to catch a feast from the sea anywhere I happen to be for the next 2 weeks and beyond.
I’ve had a good run for certain in Arno Bay.
Next stop is Port Neill and everything will be good there, just like it was here.
DAY 57
I am feeling generally like a spoiled little brat in Arno Bay.
Such a shame life can’t be one continuous day like this one, although much of what I have experienced here is not so much about the place as about the people.
Caravan parks are funny old places at the best of times.
Not unlike hostels in that you get a collective of humans out of their routines (often travellers great distances from home) and this in itself can make for interesting connections.
It is rare a thing though, when somehow you feel as though you are the centre of attention in a particular place.
Not so much the centre of attention as that everyone knows who you are and even scarier, knows where you’ve been and what you’ve been doing – up to several weeks previously.
Soon enough word gets out about you and your story and people have started filling in the gaps and know things you haven’t even told them, just by talking to everybody else.
Things are then being done for you – not in a mothering kind of way but gifts that are bestowed from above.
I’m not embarrassed at the end of it all.
It’s just good to know that people can do things for others that they don’t need to but maybe just because they want to.
So what am I referring to in all of this?
Let’s just say for example that I’ve fed out on fish today without casting a line or spending any money.
And let’s also just say for another example that I am now set up to catch a feast from the sea anywhere I happen to be for the next 2 weeks and beyond.
I’ve had a good run for certain in Arno Bay.
Next stop is Port Neill and everything will be good there, just like it was here.
DAY 56 - ARNO BAY SA
ARNO BAY SA
DAY 56
COWELL – ARNO BAY
51.16 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 13.00 (4h)
Time on Bike: 2h 42m 41s
Max. Speed: 38.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.9 km/h
There will be no long hauls for the next few.
With only 40 kilometres each between the next 3 towns, I might as well drop in to all of them.
The weather is executive and there are tailwinds aplenty.
And I also went fishing for squid this afternoon.
Didn’t catch anything but now I find out that squid haven’t been caught off the jetty here for a couple of weeks, although it won’t stop me trying again tomorrow.
It so happens I went travelling with some fishing line, mostly as a means of making repairs if required, but now it is ready made complete with brand new lure and floater.
Just dangle it off and watch the little critters bite.
Not this easy I’m afraid and I was sadly relegated to the local supermarket once again this evening.
Not to be denied however, I went one better and splurged on a dozen of Cowell’s finest oysters.
At $7 the Baker’s Dozen, it is hardly excessive but they are rather easy on the palate.
Buying them unshucked means you need to find a way to crack the buggers open without slicing off 2 or 3 fingers or else causing cuts that take months to heal.
Hot water works or better still, placing them on a hotplate on which somebody else is cooking a steak and just wait for the juice to start spurting out of the sides.
You then know they are just ready to slide open and onto your waiting tongue - and not an abrasion in sight.
I didn’t quite escape so easily tonight and have a couple of beauties to show off for the next while.
Injuries aside, I’m starting to like this place and may or may not move on tomorrow.
Port Neill is the next stop and it will probably be more of the same.
Or just stop here another day and indulge awhile.
DAY 56
COWELL – ARNO BAY
51.16 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 13.00 (4h)
Time on Bike: 2h 42m 41s
Max. Speed: 38.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.9 km/h
There will be no long hauls for the next few.
With only 40 kilometres each between the next 3 towns, I might as well drop in to all of them.
The weather is executive and there are tailwinds aplenty.
And I also went fishing for squid this afternoon.
Didn’t catch anything but now I find out that squid haven’t been caught off the jetty here for a couple of weeks, although it won’t stop me trying again tomorrow.
It so happens I went travelling with some fishing line, mostly as a means of making repairs if required, but now it is ready made complete with brand new lure and floater.
Just dangle it off and watch the little critters bite.
Not this easy I’m afraid and I was sadly relegated to the local supermarket once again this evening.
Not to be denied however, I went one better and splurged on a dozen of Cowell’s finest oysters.
At $7 the Baker’s Dozen, it is hardly excessive but they are rather easy on the palate.
Buying them unshucked means you need to find a way to crack the buggers open without slicing off 2 or 3 fingers or else causing cuts that take months to heal.
Hot water works or better still, placing them on a hotplate on which somebody else is cooking a steak and just wait for the juice to start spurting out of the sides.
You then know they are just ready to slide open and onto your waiting tongue - and not an abrasion in sight.
I didn’t quite escape so easily tonight and have a couple of beauties to show off for the next while.
Injuries aside, I’m starting to like this place and may or may not move on tomorrow.
Port Neill is the next stop and it will probably be more of the same.
Or just stop here another day and indulge awhile.
DAY 55 - COWELL SA
COWELL SA
DAY 55
WHYALLA - COWELL
112.93 km
Total Time: 08.45 – 15.15 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 39m 59s
Max. Speed: 49.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.9 km/h
I am still yet to hit the mark on the Eyre Peninsula.
To be fair, it has only been 2 days and common wisdom has it that all the best spots are around on the other side anyway.
I will be heading further south tomorrow to one of 3 locations – Arno Bay, Port Neill or Tumby Bay.
They all about 40 km apart and one of them should be the final stop before hitting the big smoke of Port Lincoln.
After sampling some of the more diverse landscapes Australia has to offer over the past few days, today’s ride was back to reality – 110 kilometres of Spinifex and Mallee scrub, with just a few hills thrown in for a bit of a lark.
At least said hills had another side, which hasn’t necessarily been the experience so far along the way.
Plenty of extended downhill flying countered the scenic tedium and I basically made pretty good time.
Southwards from here, the Lincoln Highway does travel somewhat closer to the coast, but it is hardly expected to be Big Sur.
Never mind, I will make a hand of whatever cards are dealt, although I will indulge a major complaint at this point and say that I am fed up with Caravan Parks who see fit to charge me double on the basis that they have no unpowered tent sites.
It is complete bullshit, particularly when they can see I am alone, on a bike, have minimal needs and have mostly ridden all fucking day to get there.
I am staying in one such this evening and for the rate tey have charged, I would just about be better off paying an extra $10 for a bed at the pub.
Next time, I may well.
And in addition, the facilities here are crap.
At least I had a hot shower. I should be grateful.
Alas, this is my gripe for the day - the ride was actually pretty good, so I have to find something or other to whinge about…..
DAY 55
WHYALLA - COWELL
112.93 km
Total Time: 08.45 – 15.15 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 39m 59s
Max. Speed: 49.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.9 km/h
I am still yet to hit the mark on the Eyre Peninsula.
To be fair, it has only been 2 days and common wisdom has it that all the best spots are around on the other side anyway.
I will be heading further south tomorrow to one of 3 locations – Arno Bay, Port Neill or Tumby Bay.
They all about 40 km apart and one of them should be the final stop before hitting the big smoke of Port Lincoln.
After sampling some of the more diverse landscapes Australia has to offer over the past few days, today’s ride was back to reality – 110 kilometres of Spinifex and Mallee scrub, with just a few hills thrown in for a bit of a lark.
At least said hills had another side, which hasn’t necessarily been the experience so far along the way.
Plenty of extended downhill flying countered the scenic tedium and I basically made pretty good time.
Southwards from here, the Lincoln Highway does travel somewhat closer to the coast, but it is hardly expected to be Big Sur.
Never mind, I will make a hand of whatever cards are dealt, although I will indulge a major complaint at this point and say that I am fed up with Caravan Parks who see fit to charge me double on the basis that they have no unpowered tent sites.
It is complete bullshit, particularly when they can see I am alone, on a bike, have minimal needs and have mostly ridden all fucking day to get there.
I am staying in one such this evening and for the rate tey have charged, I would just about be better off paying an extra $10 for a bed at the pub.
Next time, I may well.
And in addition, the facilities here are crap.
At least I had a hot shower. I should be grateful.
Alas, this is my gripe for the day - the ride was actually pretty good, so I have to find something or other to whinge about…..
DAY 54 - WHYALLA SA
WHYALLA SA
DAY 54
PORT AUGUSTA - WHYALLA
86.41 km
Total Time: 07.30 – 13.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 10m 12s
Max. Speed: 43.3 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.7 km/h
I wheeled out of Port Augusta this morning with a full moon setting in the west.
This happened at about a similar time that the sun was breaking over the cold blue sheets of cloud behind the Flinders Ranges and casting some golden light on a brand new road ahead.
A model May autumn morning was on order as I encountered the mightiest road junction in Australia for the first time.
The top of the hill is where the Eyre and Stuart collide before parting ways for nearly 6000 collective kilometres in either direction.
An exciting thing it is too – all the human adventures and dramas and experiences that have taken place beyond here and to imagine for a moment if they could all gather in this one location and share but just a few.
It is truly an overwhelming feeling.
My particular calling this morning was the Eyre Highway.
Not quite to Perth as the sign says, but it is the gateway to my own personal adventure on this very occasion.
The opening 30 kilometres was my first taste of genuine outback cycling.
It is simply stunning.
The territory is so vast and wonderfully open – the ancient red earth was glowing fresh in a new morning light with the highway but a frail silver ribbon rippling across the surface and into the infinite.
And this is only a taste.
Another inherent and relentless feature of Aussie Outback culture from Port Augusta onwards are the phenomenal Road Trains.
B-Doubles with 8 extra wheels is what they are and they are my newest highway acquaintances.
I am gradually warming to the concept of 42 wheels running straight over the top of me.
34 just weren’t quite enough – I feel as though 42 would do a much cleaner job.
Joke as I may, though for obvious bloody reasons they are not to be minced with.
Not because I am particularly scared of them.
It just makes sense that the potential for catastrophe just got bigger.
My mood however is a happy one as I sense this threat as barely superficial - the majority of truckies have in fact been good little boys and I must give overall credit to their behaviour towards me.
There has only been a single instance of a close call – about 1½ km north of Jerilderie NSW – my number was nearly called, just not quite loud enough on this particular morning.
An odd instance of impudence along the way as well, but the way I see it, this is inevitable……
I took a swim in Whyalla this afternoon and will be heading further south to Cowell tomorrow.
The sums are already tallying the return trip to Port Augusta to a fairly even 1000 km.
200 of these will be down by tomorrow evening, so I’m happier than ever to keep taking my time as there are some potentially very pleasant places to encounter along the way.
DAY 54
PORT AUGUSTA - WHYALLA
86.41 km
Total Time: 07.30 – 13.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 10m 12s
Max. Speed: 43.3 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.7 km/h
I wheeled out of Port Augusta this morning with a full moon setting in the west.
This happened at about a similar time that the sun was breaking over the cold blue sheets of cloud behind the Flinders Ranges and casting some golden light on a brand new road ahead.
A model May autumn morning was on order as I encountered the mightiest road junction in Australia for the first time.
The top of the hill is where the Eyre and Stuart collide before parting ways for nearly 6000 collective kilometres in either direction.
An exciting thing it is too – all the human adventures and dramas and experiences that have taken place beyond here and to imagine for a moment if they could all gather in this one location and share but just a few.
It is truly an overwhelming feeling.
My particular calling this morning was the Eyre Highway.
Not quite to Perth as the sign says, but it is the gateway to my own personal adventure on this very occasion.
The opening 30 kilometres was my first taste of genuine outback cycling.
It is simply stunning.
The territory is so vast and wonderfully open – the ancient red earth was glowing fresh in a new morning light with the highway but a frail silver ribbon rippling across the surface and into the infinite.
And this is only a taste.
Another inherent and relentless feature of Aussie Outback culture from Port Augusta onwards are the phenomenal Road Trains.
B-Doubles with 8 extra wheels is what they are and they are my newest highway acquaintances.
I am gradually warming to the concept of 42 wheels running straight over the top of me.
34 just weren’t quite enough – I feel as though 42 would do a much cleaner job.
Joke as I may, though for obvious bloody reasons they are not to be minced with.
Not because I am particularly scared of them.
It just makes sense that the potential for catastrophe just got bigger.
My mood however is a happy one as I sense this threat as barely superficial - the majority of truckies have in fact been good little boys and I must give overall credit to their behaviour towards me.
There has only been a single instance of a close call – about 1½ km north of Jerilderie NSW – my number was nearly called, just not quite loud enough on this particular morning.
An odd instance of impudence along the way as well, but the way I see it, this is inevitable……
I took a swim in Whyalla this afternoon and will be heading further south to Cowell tomorrow.
The sums are already tallying the return trip to Port Augusta to a fairly even 1000 km.
200 of these will be down by tomorrow evening, so I’m happier than ever to keep taking my time as there are some potentially very pleasant places to encounter along the way.
DAY 53 - PORT AUGUSTA SA
PORT AUGUSTA SA
DAY 53
QUORN – PORT AUGUSTA
48.8 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 13.15 (3h 45m)
Time on Bike: 2h 24m 25s
Max. Speed: 56.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.3 km/h
A gem of a ride today.
I took the much anticipated Pichi Richi Pass, which is the premier road trip of the Southern Flinders.
But for the conditions, which represented every known shade of the greyscale, it may have been the best ride yet.
My attempts at capturing the moment therefore are not as they may have been.
It was a good thing I tried to smile at times, just to be able to locate myself.
Charcoal skies notwithstanding, I refused to allow my enjoyment to be diminished at any stage. I am better for the experience.
The Pichi Richi Pass is a route followed by part of the former Great Northern train line between Adelaide and Darwin.
Nowadays is "The Ghan", which takes what I would suggest is more direct but far less fulfilling route, bypasses entirely an area which would have once made it a truly great train journey.
Instead, one can either pay nearly AU$2000 to enjoy 3 luxurious days of watching saltbush and red dirt flash by on the other side of the glass or else take the Pichi Richi railway from Port Augusta to Quorn for around $60 return.
The Pichi Richi runs periodically during the year on incredibly well restored steam and diesel engines and you can even put your head out of the windows to feel that wonderful Flinders breeze in your face.
My personal endorsement remains and a bike trip is the best way to go.
However, I would not be at all opposed to getting on this wonderful old steamer and having the second best fun ever.
My appetite has absolutely been whet by this experience and I am currently researching a possible route further into the Flinders on the return journey from Ceduna.
Depending on a chosen agenda, I would need to account for around a week (plus some change) and a certain amount of time on unsealed roads. It would completely be worth it.
For now, I am enjoying a one-nighter in Port Augusta before moving south to Whyalla tomorrow.
Port Augusta is a very pleasant settlement, wedged in between the head of the Spencer Gulf and the stunning Southern Flinders that look down on the town from the north with something that could be likened to a religious benevolence, particularly at sunset.
It is also one of the great crossroads of Australia – the junction of the Eyre and Stuart Highways – the Eyre following a 2500 km odyssey across the Nullabor Plain to Perth in the west and the Stuart 3000+ km through the Great Outback to Darwin in the north.
In true World V style, I will follow neither.
Instead, my path will take to southbound Lincoln Highway in a 1000 km loop of the Eyre Peninsula.
The southern most point is Port Lincoln, from where I will follow the western coastal road around to Ceduna.
Time for some fishing.
DAY 53
QUORN – PORT AUGUSTA
48.8 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 13.15 (3h 45m)
Time on Bike: 2h 24m 25s
Max. Speed: 56.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.3 km/h
A gem of a ride today.
I took the much anticipated Pichi Richi Pass, which is the premier road trip of the Southern Flinders.
But for the conditions, which represented every known shade of the greyscale, it may have been the best ride yet.
My attempts at capturing the moment therefore are not as they may have been.
It was a good thing I tried to smile at times, just to be able to locate myself.
Charcoal skies notwithstanding, I refused to allow my enjoyment to be diminished at any stage. I am better for the experience.
The Pichi Richi Pass is a route followed by part of the former Great Northern train line between Adelaide and Darwin.
Nowadays is "The Ghan", which takes what I would suggest is more direct but far less fulfilling route, bypasses entirely an area which would have once made it a truly great train journey.
Instead, one can either pay nearly AU$2000 to enjoy 3 luxurious days of watching saltbush and red dirt flash by on the other side of the glass or else take the Pichi Richi railway from Port Augusta to Quorn for around $60 return.
The Pichi Richi runs periodically during the year on incredibly well restored steam and diesel engines and you can even put your head out of the windows to feel that wonderful Flinders breeze in your face.
My personal endorsement remains and a bike trip is the best way to go.
However, I would not be at all opposed to getting on this wonderful old steamer and having the second best fun ever.
My appetite has absolutely been whet by this experience and I am currently researching a possible route further into the Flinders on the return journey from Ceduna.
Depending on a chosen agenda, I would need to account for around a week (plus some change) and a certain amount of time on unsealed roads. It would completely be worth it.
For now, I am enjoying a one-nighter in Port Augusta before moving south to Whyalla tomorrow.
Port Augusta is a very pleasant settlement, wedged in between the head of the Spencer Gulf and the stunning Southern Flinders that look down on the town from the north with something that could be likened to a religious benevolence, particularly at sunset.
It is also one of the great crossroads of Australia – the junction of the Eyre and Stuart Highways – the Eyre following a 2500 km odyssey across the Nullabor Plain to Perth in the west and the Stuart 3000+ km through the Great Outback to Darwin in the north.
In true World V style, I will follow neither.
Instead, my path will take to southbound Lincoln Highway in a 1000 km loop of the Eyre Peninsula.
The southern most point is Port Lincoln, from where I will follow the western coastal road around to Ceduna.
Time for some fishing.
Monday, May 19, 2008
DAY 52 - QUORN SA
QUORN SA
DAY 52
MELROSE - QUORN
70.33 km
Total Time: 08.15 – 12.45 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike: 3h 39m 07s
Max. Speed: 42.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.2 km/h
One of the better rides in recent history, this morning.
A nice 10 km downhill run out of Melrose opened the account and things really didn’t deteriorate from here.
The rain has mostly cleared, though there may or may not be some more during the week.
Melrose is traditionally one of South Australia’s coldest places so I’m not so concerned about what the temperature is doing.
Port Augusta is traditionally 4ºC or more warmer, so it will all work out.
I’ve taken an extra day to visit Quorn just for the sake of it.
It was easy enough to take Horrocks Pass straight into Port Augusta this morning but instead I’ve chosen the Pichi Richi Pass and will arrive tomorrow.
Quorn is very much a part of the landscape of the Flinders Ranges.
And now getting a taste of what lies further north, I’m tempted to keep going.
Trouble is, as incredibly beautiful as the Flinders may be, it isn’t long before the roads begin to feralise and this is not good news.
With the luxury of an appropriate vehicle or as a quite well prepared cycle tour, there is no doubt the Flinders is one of Australia’s more unique and exotic locations.
Underrated too, I daresay as the tourist sheep flock to the “Outback” of the Northern Territory and elsewhere.
Unfortunately this time around, I’m not prepared to go triking for great distances along unsealed roads and this is the deal when travelling the Flinders.
Personally, I would prefer taking this as an entirely separate trip and do it properly.
For an Aussie Outback experience, there seems little value in choosing the drudgery and distance of the Nullabor or the commercial rort of Uluru over this particular part of world…..
Enough said and I will begin travelling around the Eyre Peninsula shortly.
Heading south of Port Augusta, this part of the journey will commence.
I am looking forward to it greatly as this is the first coastal travelling I have done so far.
The round trip return to Port Augusta should take around 3 weeks – 2 along the coast and 1 of semi-arid riding back along the Eyre Highway to PA.
I also have some feelings that this section of the trip will be a photography bonanza.
Now I will say no more, or else it may rain mercilessly for the next month…..
DAY 52
MELROSE - QUORN
70.33 km
Total Time: 08.15 – 12.45 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike: 3h 39m 07s
Max. Speed: 42.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.2 km/h
One of the better rides in recent history, this morning.
A nice 10 km downhill run out of Melrose opened the account and things really didn’t deteriorate from here.
The rain has mostly cleared, though there may or may not be some more during the week.
Melrose is traditionally one of South Australia’s coldest places so I’m not so concerned about what the temperature is doing.
Port Augusta is traditionally 4ºC or more warmer, so it will all work out.
I’ve taken an extra day to visit Quorn just for the sake of it.
It was easy enough to take Horrocks Pass straight into Port Augusta this morning but instead I’ve chosen the Pichi Richi Pass and will arrive tomorrow.
Quorn is very much a part of the landscape of the Flinders Ranges.
And now getting a taste of what lies further north, I’m tempted to keep going.
Trouble is, as incredibly beautiful as the Flinders may be, it isn’t long before the roads begin to feralise and this is not good news.
With the luxury of an appropriate vehicle or as a quite well prepared cycle tour, there is no doubt the Flinders is one of Australia’s more unique and exotic locations.
Underrated too, I daresay as the tourist sheep flock to the “Outback” of the Northern Territory and elsewhere.
Unfortunately this time around, I’m not prepared to go triking for great distances along unsealed roads and this is the deal when travelling the Flinders.
Personally, I would prefer taking this as an entirely separate trip and do it properly.
For an Aussie Outback experience, there seems little value in choosing the drudgery and distance of the Nullabor or the commercial rort of Uluru over this particular part of world…..
Enough said and I will begin travelling around the Eyre Peninsula shortly.
Heading south of Port Augusta, this part of the journey will commence.
I am looking forward to it greatly as this is the first coastal travelling I have done so far.
The round trip return to Port Augusta should take around 3 weeks – 2 along the coast and 1 of semi-arid riding back along the Eyre Highway to PA.
I also have some feelings that this section of the trip will be a photography bonanza.
Now I will say no more, or else it may rain mercilessly for the next month…..
Sunday, May 18, 2008
DAY 51 - MELROSE SA
MELROSE SA
DAY 51
Sorry, no action today.
Rain, wind, mist, cold and dirty wet.
All set for the town of Quorn tomorrow.
DAY 51
Sorry, no action today.
Rain, wind, mist, cold and dirty wet.
All set for the town of Quorn tomorrow.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
DAY 50 - MELROSE SA
MELROSE SA
DAY 50
GLADSTONE - MELROSE
64.7 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.00 (6h)
Time on Bike: 3h 47m 53s
Max. Speed: 37.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 17 km/h
Surprises continue to flow, but first a weather report.
In a word: shithouse.
That’s 2 words really, joined together, but the point is made.
I actually rode today because conditions in Gladstone were quite acceptable when I decided to leave.
Plenty of rain about but the wind had backed off, which counted for a whole lot more.
I made some pretty good time with a few downpours along the way and finally 20 km short of Melrose, a howling tailwind out of nowhere came along for the ride with copious approval from this cold, wet traveller.
Worse luck, the final 5 into Melrose were upwards and wet but not to complain.
Melrose is a small village at the foot of Mount Remarkable, an impressive lump of rock that rises out of the Southern Flinders Ranges, around 300 km north of Adelaide.
Impressive enough to be visible from more than 50 kilometres in every direction and also impressive enough to be scaled in the right conditions.
Slush and mud are best left for someone else, so I’m indoors drying out.
I’m staying in a backpackers for only the second time around, which also happens to be part of the local caravan park set up.
For $15 there’s a bed and some interesting folk about.
There’s a gathering here of the South Australian Vincent Owners Club – 20 or so fanatics that have sadly had their fun ruined by crap weather this weekend.
The Vincent is a classic British motorbike from the 40’s and 50’s that are now worth a small squillion for the dedicated fanciers who own them.
There was a whole lot of biking talk going on but also a deal of curiosity about my little solo venture.
I resisted a few well-meaning offers to hook up a Vincent 500-single to the back of my little beast but not on an offer to join them all for dinner at the town’s nicest pub – especially since they were paying.
The pub was the warmest building in town by some distance and by home time, the consensus was that the weather had gone from worse to much worse.
No more riding this weekend.
And in these conditions, I will probably stay put myself.
Forecasts for Monday are somewhat more conducive for human activity so this will have to be it.
DAY 50
GLADSTONE - MELROSE
64.7 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.00 (6h)
Time on Bike: 3h 47m 53s
Max. Speed: 37.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 17 km/h
Surprises continue to flow, but first a weather report.
In a word: shithouse.
That’s 2 words really, joined together, but the point is made.
I actually rode today because conditions in Gladstone were quite acceptable when I decided to leave.
Plenty of rain about but the wind had backed off, which counted for a whole lot more.
I made some pretty good time with a few downpours along the way and finally 20 km short of Melrose, a howling tailwind out of nowhere came along for the ride with copious approval from this cold, wet traveller.
Worse luck, the final 5 into Melrose were upwards and wet but not to complain.
Melrose is a small village at the foot of Mount Remarkable, an impressive lump of rock that rises out of the Southern Flinders Ranges, around 300 km north of Adelaide.
Impressive enough to be visible from more than 50 kilometres in every direction and also impressive enough to be scaled in the right conditions.
Slush and mud are best left for someone else, so I’m indoors drying out.
I’m staying in a backpackers for only the second time around, which also happens to be part of the local caravan park set up.
For $15 there’s a bed and some interesting folk about.
There’s a gathering here of the South Australian Vincent Owners Club – 20 or so fanatics that have sadly had their fun ruined by crap weather this weekend.
The Vincent is a classic British motorbike from the 40’s and 50’s that are now worth a small squillion for the dedicated fanciers who own them.
There was a whole lot of biking talk going on but also a deal of curiosity about my little solo venture.
I resisted a few well-meaning offers to hook up a Vincent 500-single to the back of my little beast but not on an offer to join them all for dinner at the town’s nicest pub – especially since they were paying.
The pub was the warmest building in town by some distance and by home time, the consensus was that the weather had gone from worse to much worse.
No more riding this weekend.
And in these conditions, I will probably stay put myself.
Forecasts for Monday are somewhat more conducive for human activity so this will have to be it.
Friday, May 16, 2008
DAY 49 - GLADSTONE SA
GLADSTONE SA
DAY 49
REST DAY
A nasty old day it was.
The weather bureau forecast everything that came forth – all except the hail.
A pounding northwest wind all morning was backed up by 5 hours of rain in the afternoon.
And it tumbled in buckets.
Top temps of 10ºC prevailed for the most part and not much better is expected tomorrow.
Glad as I am to have taken a rest today, a ride tomorrow is not a high priority.
It’s the wind that I’m against.
A cold, caning headwind is not my friend at all.
Rain by itself is civilised, but the wind is brutal.
I’ll ride if I can, but nothing to be decided until morning.
DAY 49
REST DAY
A nasty old day it was.
The weather bureau forecast everything that came forth – all except the hail.
A pounding northwest wind all morning was backed up by 5 hours of rain in the afternoon.
And it tumbled in buckets.
Top temps of 10ºC prevailed for the most part and not much better is expected tomorrow.
Glad as I am to have taken a rest today, a ride tomorrow is not a high priority.
It’s the wind that I’m against.
A cold, caning headwind is not my friend at all.
Rain by itself is civilised, but the wind is brutal.
I’ll ride if I can, but nothing to be decided until morning.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
DAY 48 - GLADSTONE SA
GLADSTONE SA
DAY 48
AUBURN - GLADSTONE
109.22 km
Total Time: 08.00 – 16.45 (8h 45m)
Time on Bike: 6h 38m 59s
Max. Speed: 55.5 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.4 km/h
I’ve cycled 180 kilometres from Gawler yesterday morning.
Conservatively, 110 of these have been uphill and most of these 110 into a headwind.
180 km feels like about 300 right now. I’m quite buggered.
My advisors, in their well-meaning enthusiasm, neglected to mention that the trip from Gawler to Clare is 100 kilometres directly uphill.
And beyond this, there’s more of where that came from.
Beautiful countryside, but hard and exasperating work.
The alternative of course, was the traffic and truck laden Highway 1 – no particular scenery and just a little more dangerous.
At least I had the road to myself for great chunks of the trip today.
Gladstone is still over 100 km from Port Augusta and I’m taking my time over this.
It has started raining tonight and all hell is forecast for the next 3 days – electrical storms, hail stones, torrential downpours.
Tomorrow may be a good indoors day in this light and I need to do some laundry.
There is also a niggling physical problem I would like to rest up before pushing on.
I have a nice cheap camp and I can pretend to back in Flagstaff, Arizona for a day – there are enough Ponderosa’s to take me back and the Southern Flinders even have a few peaks over yonder to complete the resemblance.
No snow about worse luck, unless the hail stones come good. This may go close.
So I may not be riding for a while, or maybe I will.
There will still be a couple of stops before Augusta, then it will be fishing time as I hit the road down the Eyre Peninsula early next week.
DAY 48
AUBURN - GLADSTONE
109.22 km
Total Time: 08.00 – 16.45 (8h 45m)
Time on Bike: 6h 38m 59s
Max. Speed: 55.5 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.4 km/h
I’ve cycled 180 kilometres from Gawler yesterday morning.
Conservatively, 110 of these have been uphill and most of these 110 into a headwind.
180 km feels like about 300 right now. I’m quite buggered.
My advisors, in their well-meaning enthusiasm, neglected to mention that the trip from Gawler to Clare is 100 kilometres directly uphill.
And beyond this, there’s more of where that came from.
Beautiful countryside, but hard and exasperating work.
The alternative of course, was the traffic and truck laden Highway 1 – no particular scenery and just a little more dangerous.
At least I had the road to myself for great chunks of the trip today.
Gladstone is still over 100 km from Port Augusta and I’m taking my time over this.
It has started raining tonight and all hell is forecast for the next 3 days – electrical storms, hail stones, torrential downpours.
Tomorrow may be a good indoors day in this light and I need to do some laundry.
There is also a niggling physical problem I would like to rest up before pushing on.
I have a nice cheap camp and I can pretend to back in Flagstaff, Arizona for a day – there are enough Ponderosa’s to take me back and the Southern Flinders even have a few peaks over yonder to complete the resemblance.
No snow about worse luck, unless the hail stones come good. This may go close.
So I may not be riding for a while, or maybe I will.
There will still be a couple of stops before Augusta, then it will be fishing time as I hit the road down the Eyre Peninsula early next week.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
DAY 47 - AUBURN SA
AUBURN SA
DAY 47
GAWLER - AUBURN
77.25 km
Total Time: 09.20 – 16.20 (7h)
Time on Bike: 5h 15m 41s
Max. Speed: 42.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.1 km/h
Officially, today was the second slowest day so far.
Not since climbing across the Blue Mountains on Day 2 has there been a slower day.
No surprises really, after 60 kilometres of grinding and relentless uphill.
The hills today were layered, so that I would climb for 10 or 12 km’s, then it would flatten out for 1 or 2, then another 10 km of uphill.
Guaranteed was another set of hills hiding behind the ones I’d just climbed.
And if this wasn’t enough, it was all straight into a headwind.
To be fair, anything else in these conditions would have been a complete waste of a tailwind, so probably just as well.
Today was also the only day I pulled up short of the planned destination.
Clare is another 24 kilometres onward - and uphill I can only presume.
With an hour of daylight left and crawling along at about 12 – 13 km/h, simple math can determine that I would have been still trundling along in the dark and this is not a great plan.
I have pitched just outside of town in what is supposedly a caravan park but I won’t be paying for it.
Auburn is barely on the map but it is a tidy little town on the Clare Valley wine trail, full of B&B’s and host to some National Heritage buildings that have mostly been converted to accommodation or restaurants.
The town pub is one such building, with a blackboard menu that would consume twice my daily budget without even having a drink.
All well and nice for the quaffing set.
Once again, the town supermarket has supplied this traveller with an oddly fashioned meal – mostly out of a tin on this occasion, however after quite a luxurious few days in Adelaide, I must not complain.
Complain I will however, first thing tomorrow when those hills start to rise and I realise that I will likely be in for another day of tedious climbing.
Such a shame really, as the countryside is quite the picture.
Grinding for hours uphill is simply no fun I’m afraid, although short of taking another route, there is little to be done about it.
DAY 47
GAWLER - AUBURN
77.25 km
Total Time: 09.20 – 16.20 (7h)
Time on Bike: 5h 15m 41s
Max. Speed: 42.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.1 km/h
Officially, today was the second slowest day so far.
Not since climbing across the Blue Mountains on Day 2 has there been a slower day.
No surprises really, after 60 kilometres of grinding and relentless uphill.
The hills today were layered, so that I would climb for 10 or 12 km’s, then it would flatten out for 1 or 2, then another 10 km of uphill.
Guaranteed was another set of hills hiding behind the ones I’d just climbed.
And if this wasn’t enough, it was all straight into a headwind.
To be fair, anything else in these conditions would have been a complete waste of a tailwind, so probably just as well.
Today was also the only day I pulled up short of the planned destination.
Clare is another 24 kilometres onward - and uphill I can only presume.
With an hour of daylight left and crawling along at about 12 – 13 km/h, simple math can determine that I would have been still trundling along in the dark and this is not a great plan.
I have pitched just outside of town in what is supposedly a caravan park but I won’t be paying for it.
Auburn is barely on the map but it is a tidy little town on the Clare Valley wine trail, full of B&B’s and host to some National Heritage buildings that have mostly been converted to accommodation or restaurants.
The town pub is one such building, with a blackboard menu that would consume twice my daily budget without even having a drink.
All well and nice for the quaffing set.
Once again, the town supermarket has supplied this traveller with an oddly fashioned meal – mostly out of a tin on this occasion, however after quite a luxurious few days in Adelaide, I must not complain.
Complain I will however, first thing tomorrow when those hills start to rise and I realise that I will likely be in for another day of tedious climbing.
Such a shame really, as the countryside is quite the picture.
Grinding for hours uphill is simply no fun I’m afraid, although short of taking another route, there is little to be done about it.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
DAY 46 - GAWLER SA
GAWLER SA
DAY 46
ADELAIDE - GAWLER
58.95 km
Total Time: 11.00 – 17.00 (6h)
Time on Bike: 2h 50m 46s
Max. Speed: 52.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.7 km/h
I love it when things happen for a reason.
At the time though, everything seems like a complete fucking disaster and misery is all that’s on offer.
By day’s end, hindsight has had time to kick in and the coins often begin to drop.
I snapped my chain this morning in Adelaide, about 20 minutes after departure.
After riding 2200 kilometres from Sydney, the chain just decided to break as I was crossing an intersection near the city centre.
It was not a crippling problem at all - the main issue was always going to be the amount of time spent dicking around in Adelaide trying to fix it.
3 hours later, I was back in action, although just as afternoon rush hour beckoned once again on Main North Road, which of course happened to be my escape route towards the Clare Valley.
By 2.30 pm, the original destination of Port Wakefield was completely out of the question and I hastily revised the day’s proceedings towards Gawler.
Another 2½ hour game of life and death awaited on the main north route out of Adelaide as I aimed to put as much distance on the clock AQAP.
Conditions for the duration were as horrific as expected and again I am seriously relieved to have made it into Gawler with my life intact.
So in hindsight of the day’s activities, I believe there is a reason for what happened this morning and it has brought me here to Gawler.
Gawler is a hub of access to 3 main centres in the region: Barossa Valley, Adelaide and Clare Valley.
Having successfully explored the two former, Clare Valley lies directly north of here and is, I am led to believe an infinitely more interesting (and safer) route than straight up the guts of Highway 1 into Port Augusta.
I’ll still arrive at PA in the same amount of time but the main idea is to seize the opportunity and hopefully raise the bar of enjoyment in the process.
Gawler is likely the most practical place to be and yet there still may be reasons as to why this path has been chosen for me.
I am as curious as you are.
DAY 46
ADELAIDE - GAWLER
58.95 km
Total Time: 11.00 – 17.00 (6h)
Time on Bike: 2h 50m 46s
Max. Speed: 52.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.7 km/h
I love it when things happen for a reason.
At the time though, everything seems like a complete fucking disaster and misery is all that’s on offer.
By day’s end, hindsight has had time to kick in and the coins often begin to drop.
I snapped my chain this morning in Adelaide, about 20 minutes after departure.
After riding 2200 kilometres from Sydney, the chain just decided to break as I was crossing an intersection near the city centre.
It was not a crippling problem at all - the main issue was always going to be the amount of time spent dicking around in Adelaide trying to fix it.
3 hours later, I was back in action, although just as afternoon rush hour beckoned once again on Main North Road, which of course happened to be my escape route towards the Clare Valley.
By 2.30 pm, the original destination of Port Wakefield was completely out of the question and I hastily revised the day’s proceedings towards Gawler.
Another 2½ hour game of life and death awaited on the main north route out of Adelaide as I aimed to put as much distance on the clock AQAP.
Conditions for the duration were as horrific as expected and again I am seriously relieved to have made it into Gawler with my life intact.
So in hindsight of the day’s activities, I believe there is a reason for what happened this morning and it has brought me here to Gawler.
Gawler is a hub of access to 3 main centres in the region: Barossa Valley, Adelaide and Clare Valley.
Having successfully explored the two former, Clare Valley lies directly north of here and is, I am led to believe an infinitely more interesting (and safer) route than straight up the guts of Highway 1 into Port Augusta.
I’ll still arrive at PA in the same amount of time but the main idea is to seize the opportunity and hopefully raise the bar of enjoyment in the process.
Gawler is likely the most practical place to be and yet there still may be reasons as to why this path has been chosen for me.
I am as curious as you are.
Monday, May 12, 2008
DAY 45 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 45
Final day in Adelaide for the time being with Part 2 of the journey set to begin.
The decision has been made to head further west as the time of year dictates it as best to do so.
My objective will be the Eyre Peninsula – the largest of 3 peninsulas that hang off the bottom of South Australia and an area that I would never otherwise choose to explore.
All the more reason then, to do so.
The most common trip of travellers heading west from Adelaide is to take the long haul straight across the 1200 kilometre Nullarbor Plain and either directly or indirectly end up in Perth, Western Australia.
It is certainly the most obvious route and almost certainly the most difficult.
A 3000 kilometre odyssey, including long stretches of isolation, no showering and days (or weeks) of rationed food and water.
Not something to be taken lightly at all, yet not difficult to the point of being prohibitive.
It should really come down to desire and willingness to want to travel to Perth in this manner.
For myself, at this point, I have no particular purpose to travel to Perth and therefore believe that there are actually far better trips to consider than taking on the Nullabor just because it’s there.
Just for the record though, it is likely that I will travel as far as Ceduna - the official East – West starting point of the Nullabor Plain and this will also signify that I have ridden halfway across Australia by tricycle.
To haul straight across the Nullabor on Highway 1 (as most who attempt to impress the world in such a way do) inherently ignores the majority of the Eyre Peninsula –– and this my friends is good enough reason for me.
It has also been decided that this trip will likely end in Melbourne, as the Eyre Peninsula is a circular route that will take me back past Adelaide and eventually to Melbourne along the coastline of South Australia and Victoria.
ETA in Melbourne should be mid-July, but this at present is but a detail.
For now, I can reflect on the past few days in Adelaide and the wonderful hospitality of Geoff and Hellina Barnes.
I have also spent some good time hanging out with their son Adam who was good enough to weld up my broken mudguard this evening, as well as take me out for a tour of his workshop located in the grounds of the old Adelaide Gaol.
Adam is a sculptor of some repute and stores many a block of marble and granite in the old horse yard as well as the odd cast iron column as they lay in wait to be transformed into something yet to be thought of.
The Gaol itself is still as solid as the rock that holds it together, even though it was decommissioned in 1985 and is no more than a current day tourist attraction.
Not a bad view of the city skyline either for all the old prisoners.
I wouldn’t score something this presentable in a 3 or 4 star job about town for a 100-odd-dollars per night.
Doubtless though that Adelaide’s updated correctional facility is likely twice as efficient and half as aesthetically impressive as its former self…..
Time has now come to move on in the morning, however it was most satisfying to indulge in the fine home cooking of my hosts this evening as well as some generous servings of local South Aussie cheese and wine product.
This should never be something to be denied, no matter how far I have to ride tomorrow.
It is not certain exactly which route I will choose, however it is certain I will do everything possible to avoid wheeling out of town in midst of morning rush hour.
DAY 45
Final day in Adelaide for the time being with Part 2 of the journey set to begin.
The decision has been made to head further west as the time of year dictates it as best to do so.
My objective will be the Eyre Peninsula – the largest of 3 peninsulas that hang off the bottom of South Australia and an area that I would never otherwise choose to explore.
All the more reason then, to do so.
The most common trip of travellers heading west from Adelaide is to take the long haul straight across the 1200 kilometre Nullarbor Plain and either directly or indirectly end up in Perth, Western Australia.
It is certainly the most obvious route and almost certainly the most difficult.
A 3000 kilometre odyssey, including long stretches of isolation, no showering and days (or weeks) of rationed food and water.
Not something to be taken lightly at all, yet not difficult to the point of being prohibitive.
It should really come down to desire and willingness to want to travel to Perth in this manner.
For myself, at this point, I have no particular purpose to travel to Perth and therefore believe that there are actually far better trips to consider than taking on the Nullabor just because it’s there.
Just for the record though, it is likely that I will travel as far as Ceduna - the official East – West starting point of the Nullabor Plain and this will also signify that I have ridden halfway across Australia by tricycle.
To haul straight across the Nullabor on Highway 1 (as most who attempt to impress the world in such a way do) inherently ignores the majority of the Eyre Peninsula –– and this my friends is good enough reason for me.
It has also been decided that this trip will likely end in Melbourne, as the Eyre Peninsula is a circular route that will take me back past Adelaide and eventually to Melbourne along the coastline of South Australia and Victoria.
ETA in Melbourne should be mid-July, but this at present is but a detail.
For now, I can reflect on the past few days in Adelaide and the wonderful hospitality of Geoff and Hellina Barnes.
I have also spent some good time hanging out with their son Adam who was good enough to weld up my broken mudguard this evening, as well as take me out for a tour of his workshop located in the grounds of the old Adelaide Gaol.
Adam is a sculptor of some repute and stores many a block of marble and granite in the old horse yard as well as the odd cast iron column as they lay in wait to be transformed into something yet to be thought of.
The Gaol itself is still as solid as the rock that holds it together, even though it was decommissioned in 1985 and is no more than a current day tourist attraction.
Not a bad view of the city skyline either for all the old prisoners.
I wouldn’t score something this presentable in a 3 or 4 star job about town for a 100-odd-dollars per night.
Doubtless though that Adelaide’s updated correctional facility is likely twice as efficient and half as aesthetically impressive as its former self…..
Time has now come to move on in the morning, however it was most satisfying to indulge in the fine home cooking of my hosts this evening as well as some generous servings of local South Aussie cheese and wine product.
This should never be something to be denied, no matter how far I have to ride tomorrow.
It is not certain exactly which route I will choose, however it is certain I will do everything possible to avoid wheeling out of town in midst of morning rush hour.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
DAY 44 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 44
In a bygone era, trams ran around the city of Adelaide on a small scale European-style network, similar to that which operates in Melbourne.
Forward to 2008 and it is a single line only that runs from the city centre to the western beach centre of Glenelg and back again.
My digs in Black Forest lie at Stop 5 on the tramline between both points, so it is a location of utmost convenience.
Glenelg itself is a popular destination for a couple of reasons – one that it is so accessible and secondly it is a rather attractive place to visit.
Adelaide’s beaches are not quite surfing magnets.
They all lie on St Vincent Gulf, which attracts little or no swell at any given time unless a Force 5 cyclone spontaneously erupts off Kangaroo Island and sends a few 4-metre peaks in Adelaide’s direction.
Glenelg lies on what would be best described as a genteel bay, with a few baby ripples splashing onto the shore at regular intervals.
It is entirely swimmable – the water is clean and generally quite warm – a very comfortable 18°C at West Beach yesterday.
And it is for these reasons that Glenelg is more a hotspot for families, tourists and weekend cruisers than surfing punks and hippies.
There are vague urban myths about sharks coming into shore and dining on unsuspecting bathers – it is unquestionably shark territory, however one would be considered most unfortunate to cross paths with such a hungry beast on a sunny Autumn afternoon.
A couple of excitable teenage girls took the plunge today, squealing all the way up to their shoulders and finally daring a full body emersion.
On Mother’s Day in Glenelg, revellers were out in numbers on what was an incredibly beautiful day.
Back on land, fish and chips and ice creams were absolutely the order of the day along the grassy palm-fringed promenade, before engaging either some ball games or else a brief siesta in the lowering westerly sun.
Today, I made an early departure for the city centre and some overdue Internet time at the State Library.
Tomorrow, I will consider revising this order for my final day in Adelaide.
City chores should consume the morning hours before heading out to Glenelg for what should be a glorious Autumn sunset.
DAY 44
In a bygone era, trams ran around the city of Adelaide on a small scale European-style network, similar to that which operates in Melbourne.
Forward to 2008 and it is a single line only that runs from the city centre to the western beach centre of Glenelg and back again.
My digs in Black Forest lie at Stop 5 on the tramline between both points, so it is a location of utmost convenience.
Glenelg itself is a popular destination for a couple of reasons – one that it is so accessible and secondly it is a rather attractive place to visit.
Adelaide’s beaches are not quite surfing magnets.
They all lie on St Vincent Gulf, which attracts little or no swell at any given time unless a Force 5 cyclone spontaneously erupts off Kangaroo Island and sends a few 4-metre peaks in Adelaide’s direction.
Glenelg lies on what would be best described as a genteel bay, with a few baby ripples splashing onto the shore at regular intervals.
It is entirely swimmable – the water is clean and generally quite warm – a very comfortable 18°C at West Beach yesterday.
And it is for these reasons that Glenelg is more a hotspot for families, tourists and weekend cruisers than surfing punks and hippies.
There are vague urban myths about sharks coming into shore and dining on unsuspecting bathers – it is unquestionably shark territory, however one would be considered most unfortunate to cross paths with such a hungry beast on a sunny Autumn afternoon.
A couple of excitable teenage girls took the plunge today, squealing all the way up to their shoulders and finally daring a full body emersion.
On Mother’s Day in Glenelg, revellers were out in numbers on what was an incredibly beautiful day.
Back on land, fish and chips and ice creams were absolutely the order of the day along the grassy palm-fringed promenade, before engaging either some ball games or else a brief siesta in the lowering westerly sun.
Today, I made an early departure for the city centre and some overdue Internet time at the State Library.
Tomorrow, I will consider revising this order for my final day in Adelaide.
City chores should consume the morning hours before heading out to Glenelg for what should be a glorious Autumn sunset.
Saturday, May 10, 2008
DAY 43 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 43
WEST BEACH – BLACK FOREST
17.99 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 11.45 (1h 45m)
Time on Bike: 1h 05m 43s
Max. Speed: 26.3 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.4 km/h
My first day around Adelaide in 17 years.
Last time I was here in 1991, Gulf War 1 had just kicked off and Australia was in recession.
Adelaide 2008 style is infinitely more impressive.
The feeling is that this is a fully qualified international city now – not on the same scale as either Sydney or Melbourne would boast but there is no evidence about that suggests otherwise.
The Fringe Festival caravan has stopped off in Adelaide for many a year and in Womad and the newly appointed International Guitar Festival, there are some truly original experiences that can rightly stamp themselves as pure Adelaide.
There is still more of Melbourne about Adelaide than any other Oz city and that is nothing to shy away from.
I can’t quite summon an international comparison, although there are just a few cathedrals about and this could lay claim to most anywhere in Europe.
There is one attraction however, that may just separate Adelaide from all others.
This is the Adelaide Oval.
Adelaide Oval lays claim to being one of the finest cricket grounds in the world.
And as cricket grounds are not abundant in many places other than Australia, England, India and the West Indies, this is basically fair enough.
I watched part of a test match here on my last visit and even to the outsider, it is a fine specimen of its kind.
As a purpose-built ground and at nearly 130 years old it is as fresh as a new stadium without ever having sacrificed its history.
The ground still caters to its patronage with timber and grass instead of metal and plastic that sterilise most sporting arenas around the world.
Any event here is more comfortable with 20 000 heads being close to the action than 100 000 watching on a screen from 500 metres away.
With the River Torrens and the Festival Hall precinct as a backdrop and flanked by European gardens and Cathedrals, Adelaide Oval is the unique centrepiece of the city, even if you do compare sporting details with bathroom duty….
Personally, the day in Adelaide opened with a swim at West Beach – my only glimpse of the ocean in the past 6 weeks.
Not nearly as cold either as some would claim – though with a 10 am checkout beckoning, I had to get moving.
With bike packed, I headed towards Black Forest to finally make good my dossing appointment with Geoff and Hellina.
Just over 15 kilometres and an ice cream stop in Glenelg later, all things were good and I have a place to stay until Tuesday.
The afternoon became mine about town and a major objective to see my camera back in good health and functioning again.
If there was good news to be had for the day, it is that the little digger has some breath yet.
As things stand, the current dilemma is either battery or charger related and with some love and kind words, the photos will be still flowing until at least the end of this trip.
More Adelaide adventures to follow in coming days along with some very pleasing photos…..
DAY 43
WEST BEACH – BLACK FOREST
17.99 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 11.45 (1h 45m)
Time on Bike: 1h 05m 43s
Max. Speed: 26.3 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.4 km/h
My first day around Adelaide in 17 years.
Last time I was here in 1991, Gulf War 1 had just kicked off and Australia was in recession.
Adelaide 2008 style is infinitely more impressive.
The feeling is that this is a fully qualified international city now – not on the same scale as either Sydney or Melbourne would boast but there is no evidence about that suggests otherwise.
The Fringe Festival caravan has stopped off in Adelaide for many a year and in Womad and the newly appointed International Guitar Festival, there are some truly original experiences that can rightly stamp themselves as pure Adelaide.
There is still more of Melbourne about Adelaide than any other Oz city and that is nothing to shy away from.
I can’t quite summon an international comparison, although there are just a few cathedrals about and this could lay claim to most anywhere in Europe.
There is one attraction however, that may just separate Adelaide from all others.
This is the Adelaide Oval.
Adelaide Oval lays claim to being one of the finest cricket grounds in the world.
And as cricket grounds are not abundant in many places other than Australia, England, India and the West Indies, this is basically fair enough.
I watched part of a test match here on my last visit and even to the outsider, it is a fine specimen of its kind.
As a purpose-built ground and at nearly 130 years old it is as fresh as a new stadium without ever having sacrificed its history.
The ground still caters to its patronage with timber and grass instead of metal and plastic that sterilise most sporting arenas around the world.
Any event here is more comfortable with 20 000 heads being close to the action than 100 000 watching on a screen from 500 metres away.
With the River Torrens and the Festival Hall precinct as a backdrop and flanked by European gardens and Cathedrals, Adelaide Oval is the unique centrepiece of the city, even if you do compare sporting details with bathroom duty….
Personally, the day in Adelaide opened with a swim at West Beach – my only glimpse of the ocean in the past 6 weeks.
Not nearly as cold either as some would claim – though with a 10 am checkout beckoning, I had to get moving.
With bike packed, I headed towards Black Forest to finally make good my dossing appointment with Geoff and Hellina.
Just over 15 kilometres and an ice cream stop in Glenelg later, all things were good and I have a place to stay until Tuesday.
The afternoon became mine about town and a major objective to see my camera back in good health and functioning again.
If there was good news to be had for the day, it is that the little digger has some breath yet.
As things stand, the current dilemma is either battery or charger related and with some love and kind words, the photos will be still flowing until at least the end of this trip.
More Adelaide adventures to follow in coming days along with some very pleasing photos…..
DAY 42 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 42
KAPUNDA - ADELAIDE
176.02 km
Total Time: 08.30 – 19.00 (10h 30m)
Time on Bike: 8h 45m 41s
Max. Speed: 59.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.1 km/h
Sydney to Adelaide.
Mission Accomplished.
And the very day could not have been more eventful.
Everything that could have been packed into 180 kilometres was and nothing was left to spare.
Superlative weather, abundant downhill runs, spectacular landscapes, missed turnoffs, huge mountain passes, fertile agricultural valleys, Australia’s premier wine production area, taking on rush hour traffic in a major city, night riding through Adelaide, missing my accommodation connection, finding an alternative in the dark, impromptu dinner engagements……
At this point, I should be expected to elaborate but initially I should just be grateful that I have arrived and that a major section of this particular trip has been achieved.
6 weeks to the day has seen me through and though I may have anticipated arriving a week or more earlier, I am not in the least bit sorry to have taken the extra time to experience what I have.
The plan from here is still not entirely clear but is also not important right now.
My attitude from the start dictated how today evolved.
There was a general plan but absolutely no pressure as to how it may unfold.
With maps close at hand, the agenda involved an early southward journey from Kapunda, linking back with the Sturt Highway to Nuriootpa and following a route through the Barossa Valley to Gawler, before the final afternoon run into Adelaide.
All quite straightforward on paper but this is rarely how things happen.
First miss for the day was a turnoff – the net result, an extra 15 – 20 kilometres and close to 2 hours to the day’s proceedings.
And worse still were the 2 reasonably huge mountain passes between Gawler and Nuriootpa that were my punishment.
In perspective, the opening 40 kilometres were dreamlike – crystal clear skies with a 20°C high and an absolute lifetime of downhill flying.
Only problem was I had overshot the mark in all the excitement and found myself in Gawler at 10 am – about 5 hours ahead of time.
The next 2 hours were spent climbing back up the hills I had just ripped on but still, Nuriootpa became a lunch break instead of just play-lunch.
The next 2 hours again, were simply superb.
Cutting through the Barossa Valley, indeed quite hilly in parts – was the most pleasant of experiences rolling through Australia’s most famous area of wine production.
The strip between Nuriootpa and Tanunda is both well trafficked and highly commercial, but beyond this are rolling hills, lush vineyards and stylish villages – not even accounting for a near oversupply of cellar door sales and various other attractions.
Lyndoch was the last important town on my particular route and with the assistance of extended some downhill trajectory, I was in Gawler and ready for the Adelaide assault by 2.30 pm.
This is where things started getting a little sticky.
Entry into any major city should never be considered during a rush hour.
Whether Friday rush hour is worse than another day of the week is arguable, but let’s just say it is.
The Sturt Highway becomes the Main North Road as Adelaide’s extended suburbia begins and this is also where the fun begins.
30 kilometres is the distance that needs to be covered into Adelaide from where freeway conditions end – the fragile line between life and death becomes significantly thinner at this point.
Conditions are as follows:
· 2-lane highway with no shoulder and maximum traffic volume “limited” to 80 km/h
· A “bike lane” fading in and out in 2 kilometre stretches, just whenever
· Pot-holes, cracks, crevices, lumps, bumps, broken glass, rocks, any other roadside shit that can be thought of just to make life interesting
· 3-lane highway with no bike lane and maximum traffic volume and only fate between myself and certain, immediate death
· “Bike lane”, (closer to the city) that doubles as a bus lane/parking lane for cars – the only opportunity to pass parked cars is to wait for traffic lights to run the cycle
· By the time I was in Adelaide, the sun had gone down. Now just apply all the above to the dark of night
I deserve to be dead; or at least not in an upright position.
Of all the potentially dangerous situations that I may have faced on the roads on a daily basis, the final 5 hours of today’s ride on my lowrider were easily the most threatening.
Plain stupid actually – this was really dangerous stuff and I’m not just putting it in for effect.
Still, matters did not become easier when I missed my accommodation connection in all the chaos.
Geoff and Hellina, who I’d met in Mildura were expecting me and arrive as I did in the dark with seemingly nobody home was not the happy ending I had in mind.
My Lonely Planet guides have been used sparingly thus far, but they earned their keep this evening as I sought alternatives in an essentially foreign environment.
All things led me to the West Beach area – one of Adelaide’s most reputable beaches and another 10 km hike in the dark lay ahead.
The supplied “bike lane” became just a little friendlier as I moved towards Glenelg and if I’d known any better, I’d have said that rush hour was slowly melting into the weekend.
Another 20 minutes or so beyond Adelaide’s international airport and the turnoff towards West Beach led me to where I needed to be.
Expensive as it is, I’ll be heading off in the morning, but not before an early dip in the Gulf of St Vincent as shark supper and hopefully this time onto my dossing appointment with Geoff and Hellina in the Black Forest area.
What a day.
And it is finally time for a nap……
DAY 42
KAPUNDA - ADELAIDE
176.02 km
Total Time: 08.30 – 19.00 (10h 30m)
Time on Bike: 8h 45m 41s
Max. Speed: 59.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.1 km/h
Sydney to Adelaide.
Mission Accomplished.
And the very day could not have been more eventful.
Everything that could have been packed into 180 kilometres was and nothing was left to spare.
Superlative weather, abundant downhill runs, spectacular landscapes, missed turnoffs, huge mountain passes, fertile agricultural valleys, Australia’s premier wine production area, taking on rush hour traffic in a major city, night riding through Adelaide, missing my accommodation connection, finding an alternative in the dark, impromptu dinner engagements……
At this point, I should be expected to elaborate but initially I should just be grateful that I have arrived and that a major section of this particular trip has been achieved.
6 weeks to the day has seen me through and though I may have anticipated arriving a week or more earlier, I am not in the least bit sorry to have taken the extra time to experience what I have.
The plan from here is still not entirely clear but is also not important right now.
My attitude from the start dictated how today evolved.
There was a general plan but absolutely no pressure as to how it may unfold.
With maps close at hand, the agenda involved an early southward journey from Kapunda, linking back with the Sturt Highway to Nuriootpa and following a route through the Barossa Valley to Gawler, before the final afternoon run into Adelaide.
All quite straightforward on paper but this is rarely how things happen.
First miss for the day was a turnoff – the net result, an extra 15 – 20 kilometres and close to 2 hours to the day’s proceedings.
And worse still were the 2 reasonably huge mountain passes between Gawler and Nuriootpa that were my punishment.
In perspective, the opening 40 kilometres were dreamlike – crystal clear skies with a 20°C high and an absolute lifetime of downhill flying.
Only problem was I had overshot the mark in all the excitement and found myself in Gawler at 10 am – about 5 hours ahead of time.
The next 2 hours were spent climbing back up the hills I had just ripped on but still, Nuriootpa became a lunch break instead of just play-lunch.
The next 2 hours again, were simply superb.
Cutting through the Barossa Valley, indeed quite hilly in parts – was the most pleasant of experiences rolling through Australia’s most famous area of wine production.
The strip between Nuriootpa and Tanunda is both well trafficked and highly commercial, but beyond this are rolling hills, lush vineyards and stylish villages – not even accounting for a near oversupply of cellar door sales and various other attractions.
Lyndoch was the last important town on my particular route and with the assistance of extended some downhill trajectory, I was in Gawler and ready for the Adelaide assault by 2.30 pm.
This is where things started getting a little sticky.
Entry into any major city should never be considered during a rush hour.
Whether Friday rush hour is worse than another day of the week is arguable, but let’s just say it is.
The Sturt Highway becomes the Main North Road as Adelaide’s extended suburbia begins and this is also where the fun begins.
30 kilometres is the distance that needs to be covered into Adelaide from where freeway conditions end – the fragile line between life and death becomes significantly thinner at this point.
Conditions are as follows:
· 2-lane highway with no shoulder and maximum traffic volume “limited” to 80 km/h
· A “bike lane” fading in and out in 2 kilometre stretches, just whenever
· Pot-holes, cracks, crevices, lumps, bumps, broken glass, rocks, any other roadside shit that can be thought of just to make life interesting
· 3-lane highway with no bike lane and maximum traffic volume and only fate between myself and certain, immediate death
· “Bike lane”, (closer to the city) that doubles as a bus lane/parking lane for cars – the only opportunity to pass parked cars is to wait for traffic lights to run the cycle
· By the time I was in Adelaide, the sun had gone down. Now just apply all the above to the dark of night
I deserve to be dead; or at least not in an upright position.
Of all the potentially dangerous situations that I may have faced on the roads on a daily basis, the final 5 hours of today’s ride on my lowrider were easily the most threatening.
Plain stupid actually – this was really dangerous stuff and I’m not just putting it in for effect.
Still, matters did not become easier when I missed my accommodation connection in all the chaos.
Geoff and Hellina, who I’d met in Mildura were expecting me and arrive as I did in the dark with seemingly nobody home was not the happy ending I had in mind.
My Lonely Planet guides have been used sparingly thus far, but they earned their keep this evening as I sought alternatives in an essentially foreign environment.
All things led me to the West Beach area – one of Adelaide’s most reputable beaches and another 10 km hike in the dark lay ahead.
The supplied “bike lane” became just a little friendlier as I moved towards Glenelg and if I’d known any better, I’d have said that rush hour was slowly melting into the weekend.
Another 20 minutes or so beyond Adelaide’s international airport and the turnoff towards West Beach led me to where I needed to be.
Expensive as it is, I’ll be heading off in the morning, but not before an early dip in the Gulf of St Vincent as shark supper and hopefully this time onto my dossing appointment with Geoff and Hellina in the Black Forest area.
What a day.
And it is finally time for a nap……
KAPUNDA SA
DAY 41
MORGAN - KAPUNDA
97.98 km
Total Time: 07.30 – 15.00 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 57m 25s
Max. Speed: 53 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.4 km/h
I’m so close now, less than 100 km from Adelaide, depending on which way I choose to go.
It definitely feels like mission accomplished – Part 1 anyway.
I will be continuing beyond Adelaide, so this is now the decision that needs to made as to which direction I head in.
It’s not something to be deliberated about. I can pretty well make my mind up one way or another.
Today’s ride was in 2 very different halves.
Leaving Morgan (on time for once), the first 60 kilometres to Eudunda this morning was like pedalling through quicksand.
Flat uphill grinding against an unforgiving road surface - the only positives were no headwind and minimal traffic.
There were many stages where I simply could not have been going any slower and worse still, most of the scenery was little more than mallee scrub and saltbush.
As the bike’s lower gear set was being worked out of commission, the average speed just got slower and slower and slower…..
Eudunda, of course is situated halfway up a 500 metre climb that stretches over about 5 kilometres.
The plan was always to take a lunchbreak here anyway, so my burning and numbing feet could re-introduce themselves to the rest of my blood supply and my stomach could re-introduce itself to some quality replenishment.
I also broke into the local High School and helped myself to an Internet connection at their Library for a half hour or so during this time.
It has not been possible to get anywhere near a computer since Sunday, so it was nice to touch base with the world again and post some overdue blogs.
After a refuel in Eudunda and with some fresh air in ever softening tyres, I prepared myself for the afternoon haul to Kapunda, which was set to add another 30 kilometres to the day’s odometer.
I was not looking forward in the least to a replay of the morning’s effort, particularly with the first 3 kilometres out of Eudunda straight uphill.
As it turned out, the initial uphill was the end of it and I was gifted close to 20 km’s of sweet, sweet downhill into Kapunda thereafter.
The drudgery of mallee scrub and saltbush miraculously transformed into luscious vistas of blue skies and rolling hills of the green and sort of dry drought burnt brown variety.
Best of all, I was looking down on it, which can only mean one thing.
I rolled into Kapunda just on 3 pm – the final 27 km’s taking only 95 minutes out of my day.
The atmosphere here in Kapunda is most relaxed and I am camped amongst some very cooling pines, knowing I’ll be in Adelaide in less than 24 hours.
Next report: Adelaide City.
DAY 41
MORGAN - KAPUNDA
97.98 km
Total Time: 07.30 – 15.00 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 57m 25s
Max. Speed: 53 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.4 km/h
I’m so close now, less than 100 km from Adelaide, depending on which way I choose to go.
It definitely feels like mission accomplished – Part 1 anyway.
I will be continuing beyond Adelaide, so this is now the decision that needs to made as to which direction I head in.
It’s not something to be deliberated about. I can pretty well make my mind up one way or another.
Today’s ride was in 2 very different halves.
Leaving Morgan (on time for once), the first 60 kilometres to Eudunda this morning was like pedalling through quicksand.
Flat uphill grinding against an unforgiving road surface - the only positives were no headwind and minimal traffic.
There were many stages where I simply could not have been going any slower and worse still, most of the scenery was little more than mallee scrub and saltbush.
As the bike’s lower gear set was being worked out of commission, the average speed just got slower and slower and slower…..
Eudunda, of course is situated halfway up a 500 metre climb that stretches over about 5 kilometres.
The plan was always to take a lunchbreak here anyway, so my burning and numbing feet could re-introduce themselves to the rest of my blood supply and my stomach could re-introduce itself to some quality replenishment.
I also broke into the local High School and helped myself to an Internet connection at their Library for a half hour or so during this time.
It has not been possible to get anywhere near a computer since Sunday, so it was nice to touch base with the world again and post some overdue blogs.
After a refuel in Eudunda and with some fresh air in ever softening tyres, I prepared myself for the afternoon haul to Kapunda, which was set to add another 30 kilometres to the day’s odometer.
I was not looking forward in the least to a replay of the morning’s effort, particularly with the first 3 kilometres out of Eudunda straight uphill.
As it turned out, the initial uphill was the end of it and I was gifted close to 20 km’s of sweet, sweet downhill into Kapunda thereafter.
The drudgery of mallee scrub and saltbush miraculously transformed into luscious vistas of blue skies and rolling hills of the green and sort of dry drought burnt brown variety.
Best of all, I was looking down on it, which can only mean one thing.
I rolled into Kapunda just on 3 pm – the final 27 km’s taking only 95 minutes out of my day.
The atmosphere here in Kapunda is most relaxed and I am camped amongst some very cooling pines, knowing I’ll be in Adelaide in less than 24 hours.
Next report: Adelaide City.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
DAY 40 - MORGAN SA
MORGAN SA
DAY 40
WAIKERIE - MORGAN
44.63 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 13.00 (3h 30m)
Time on Bike: 2h 29m 35s
Max. Speed: 55.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.9 km/h
Today’s ride in Aussie parlance, was what is known as a bludge.
Well, in comparison with the previous 2 days, it was.
I have arrived in Morgan, a small but very quiet riverside village with a punt running across a 150 metre stretch of water to connect vehicles from one side to another.
Leaving the Sturt Highway holds no regrets so far, as I traversed some very nice and relatively quiet countryside today – lots of orchards and vineyards again for most of the distance and most importantly, no effing trucks.
The only complaint I could muster was some less than amiable road surface through some of these backwaters – a number of craters I averted this morning would be best suited on the moon.
Never mind, because the citrus fruit right now is literally falling off the tree.
It is easy enough to just pinch a whole lot of it as you go along – the mandarins or “mandis” are particularly sumptuous.
Don’t get me wrong, I can’t exactly load up on bags of fruit – just the odd juicy one along the way for sustenance…..
I guess my story at present is both good and bad.
Bad news is my camera has been indefinitely on vacation since Lake Mungo.
This means ongoing missed photo opportunities and a general feeling of travelling along blindfolded.
Sort of blindfolded with only one leg and one arm, if this makes sense.
I am unable to determine the exact nature of my camera’s obstinance and will likely need to wait until arrival in Adelaide to do so.
This I anticipate will be no later than Friday.
Meanwhile I must push on and this leads me to the good news which is indeed an ETA for Adelaide of Friday.
Morgan is well under 200 kilometres to go and this should not be a problem.
I continue along the back roads tomorrow morning and will aim for the town of Kapunda by days’ end, leaving only 100 km into Adelaide.
DAY 40
WAIKERIE - MORGAN
44.63 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 13.00 (3h 30m)
Time on Bike: 2h 29m 35s
Max. Speed: 55.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.9 km/h
Today’s ride in Aussie parlance, was what is known as a bludge.
Well, in comparison with the previous 2 days, it was.
I have arrived in Morgan, a small but very quiet riverside village with a punt running across a 150 metre stretch of water to connect vehicles from one side to another.
Leaving the Sturt Highway holds no regrets so far, as I traversed some very nice and relatively quiet countryside today – lots of orchards and vineyards again for most of the distance and most importantly, no effing trucks.
The only complaint I could muster was some less than amiable road surface through some of these backwaters – a number of craters I averted this morning would be best suited on the moon.
Never mind, because the citrus fruit right now is literally falling off the tree.
It is easy enough to just pinch a whole lot of it as you go along – the mandarins or “mandis” are particularly sumptuous.
Don’t get me wrong, I can’t exactly load up on bags of fruit – just the odd juicy one along the way for sustenance…..
I guess my story at present is both good and bad.
Bad news is my camera has been indefinitely on vacation since Lake Mungo.
This means ongoing missed photo opportunities and a general feeling of travelling along blindfolded.
Sort of blindfolded with only one leg and one arm, if this makes sense.
I am unable to determine the exact nature of my camera’s obstinance and will likely need to wait until arrival in Adelaide to do so.
This I anticipate will be no later than Friday.
Meanwhile I must push on and this leads me to the good news which is indeed an ETA for Adelaide of Friday.
Morgan is well under 200 kilometres to go and this should not be a problem.
I continue along the back roads tomorrow morning and will aim for the town of Kapunda by days’ end, leaving only 100 km into Adelaide.
DAY 39 - WAIKERIE SA
WAIKERIE SA
DAY 39
RENMARK – WAIKERIE
92.24 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 16.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 15m 14s
Max. Speed: 50.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.5 km/h
The journey through Riverland South Australia continues and I’m officially sick of the Sturt Highway.
It’s boring and full of trucks and it is nothing but good timing that I’m now taking a series of back roads into Adelaide.
Today’s ride was mostly slow, uphill grinding. Into a whistling headwind, it was a major test of patience.
In fact the past 2 days have been similar scenarios – yesterday was a longer distance but today the headwind was stronger and colder.
I’ll at least excuse the first 30 kilometres of today’s ride. There was some climbing, but the road took a scenic path through some pleasant agri-towns such as Berri and Glossop.
Vineyards, orchards and wine estates lining the road for miles on end and the odd roadside fruit stall, bursting fresh with the local produce.
Beyond this – mallee scrub, wheat fields and B-Doubles ad bloody nauseum.
It was another late start this morning, but with the lesser distance, this was not so much a problem.
I took a spa in Renmark before I left.
For the money I paid to stay there, it had to be done.
In daylight, it was a nice place to stay – just a shame I arrived in the dark because I didn’t actually need to go much further to sleep right on the river and away from the highway volume.
Indeed, I crashed very readily last evening and the noise did not disturb at all.
Onwards tomorrow towards Morgan, which is only 40 km along from here.
An easier day all around is due and will enjoy the shorter distance and catching the river ferry into town.
DAY 39
RENMARK – WAIKERIE
92.24 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 16.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 15m 14s
Max. Speed: 50.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.5 km/h
The journey through Riverland South Australia continues and I’m officially sick of the Sturt Highway.
It’s boring and full of trucks and it is nothing but good timing that I’m now taking a series of back roads into Adelaide.
Today’s ride was mostly slow, uphill grinding. Into a whistling headwind, it was a major test of patience.
In fact the past 2 days have been similar scenarios – yesterday was a longer distance but today the headwind was stronger and colder.
I’ll at least excuse the first 30 kilometres of today’s ride. There was some climbing, but the road took a scenic path through some pleasant agri-towns such as Berri and Glossop.
Vineyards, orchards and wine estates lining the road for miles on end and the odd roadside fruit stall, bursting fresh with the local produce.
Beyond this – mallee scrub, wheat fields and B-Doubles ad bloody nauseum.
It was another late start this morning, but with the lesser distance, this was not so much a problem.
I took a spa in Renmark before I left.
For the money I paid to stay there, it had to be done.
In daylight, it was a nice place to stay – just a shame I arrived in the dark because I didn’t actually need to go much further to sleep right on the river and away from the highway volume.
Indeed, I crashed very readily last evening and the noise did not disturb at all.
Onwards tomorrow towards Morgan, which is only 40 km along from here.
An easier day all around is due and will enjoy the shorter distance and catching the river ferry into town.
DAY 38 - RENMARK SA
RENMARK SA
DAY 38
MILDURA - RENMARK
163.59 km
Total Time – 08.10 – 18.30 (10h 20m)
Time on Bike – 8h 45m 12s
Max. speed – 40.5 km/h
Av. Speed – 18.7 km/h
I finished in the dark today.
This is not something I plan to make a habit of even though I rode into the sunset for the last 40 minutes.
Very romantic.
First 160 day of the trip today and not really the best day to sleep in.
I got a late start because of this and was behind for most of the day.
It wasn’t easy riding either with long stretches of uphill and a gusting headwind for most of the day.
It is probably a good thing I’m not still on the road right now.
As I said, arriving in a strange place in the dark is not an ideal formula.
I’ve got myself a camp in an overpriced resort-style park, complete with all the bits and pieces and slap next to the highway so I can look forward to falling asleep to the sweet tune of B-Doubles grunting along in both directions throughout the night.
It does seem as though there is a spa pool on site so I’ll be sure to jump in before departure in the morning – first because I want to and secondly as I’d be best to milk it for the money I’ve parted with to be here.
Destination tomorrow will possibly be Waikerie.
There is an option to take a back road tomorrow, but perhaps this is best left to the day after.
If I can handle just one more day on the Sturt Highway, this will work.
It’s around 75 kilometres direct to Waikerie from Renmark, which is only half a days’ ride.
The traffic today was not so bad at all, despite the scenic drudgery.
I’ve never had so many people giving me the highway salute today – that’s not anything impolite either.
Drivers waving, sounding their horns, flashing their lights – I even had some attention from truckies today – this is almost unheard of.
Give me more of this, a booming tailwind, 70 km of downhill and life will be quite satisfactory this time tomorrow evening.
DAY 38
MILDURA - RENMARK
163.59 km
Total Time – 08.10 – 18.30 (10h 20m)
Time on Bike – 8h 45m 12s
Max. speed – 40.5 km/h
Av. Speed – 18.7 km/h
I finished in the dark today.
This is not something I plan to make a habit of even though I rode into the sunset for the last 40 minutes.
Very romantic.
First 160 day of the trip today and not really the best day to sleep in.
I got a late start because of this and was behind for most of the day.
It wasn’t easy riding either with long stretches of uphill and a gusting headwind for most of the day.
It is probably a good thing I’m not still on the road right now.
As I said, arriving in a strange place in the dark is not an ideal formula.
I’ve got myself a camp in an overpriced resort-style park, complete with all the bits and pieces and slap next to the highway so I can look forward to falling asleep to the sweet tune of B-Doubles grunting along in both directions throughout the night.
It does seem as though there is a spa pool on site so I’ll be sure to jump in before departure in the morning – first because I want to and secondly as I’d be best to milk it for the money I’ve parted with to be here.
Destination tomorrow will possibly be Waikerie.
There is an option to take a back road tomorrow, but perhaps this is best left to the day after.
If I can handle just one more day on the Sturt Highway, this will work.
It’s around 75 kilometres direct to Waikerie from Renmark, which is only half a days’ ride.
The traffic today was not so bad at all, despite the scenic drudgery.
I’ve never had so many people giving me the highway salute today – that’s not anything impolite either.
Drivers waving, sounding their horns, flashing their lights – I even had some attention from truckies today – this is almost unheard of.
Give me more of this, a booming tailwind, 70 km of downhill and life will be quite satisfactory this time tomorrow evening.
DAY 37 - MILDURA VIC
MILDURA VIC
DAY 37
15.08 km
Total Time: 12.45 – 18.15 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 56m 22s
Max. Speed: 36.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 16 km/h
All good things must end and I’m out of Mildura at first light tomorrow.
It is also farewell to Victoria for now as I am due to cross into South Australia at some time tomorrow.
Tomorrow is destination Renmark – just short of 100 miles (160 km) and possibly the longest day of the trip.
I am getting better at pacing myself over the longer hauls, in terms of fluid intake and covering distances without a break - food intake also counts but not as much as these factors.
58 km leaving Colleambally a couple of weeks back is the longest stretch I have put in on this trip without rest.
The opening run of each day tends to be the longest, usually 25 - 40 kilometres although mostly, I prefer working in 15 – 20 km stretches once everything is moving.
Naturally, it always depends on prevailing conditions but this is close to what happens on a regular day of say 100 km or more.
Daylight is available at this time of year between 7 am and 5.30 pm, so the maximum day is around 10 hours anyway – 100 miles really is optimum distance in such a time frame.
Solid tailwind and extended downhill stretches are the only factors that can make a difference here.
My final day in Mildura has been pretty well low-key.
I got in fairly late after jamming downtown in a café last evening.
Folkways in 8th Street is run by a Maori guy called Joel and informal jam sessions are the norm on most nights of the week.
Instruments are already set up so it is just a matter of being there.
Informality is the key here and after 2 full years of basically not playing at all, this suited me just fine.
The standard of musicians and equipment was not maybe what I’m used to but like I said, this was very much off the record.
If there was anything to write about here, I was at least able to blow off some cobwebs and play from memory for a few hours and it really wasn’t so bad after all….
DAY 37
15.08 km
Total Time: 12.45 – 18.15 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 56m 22s
Max. Speed: 36.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 16 km/h
All good things must end and I’m out of Mildura at first light tomorrow.
It is also farewell to Victoria for now as I am due to cross into South Australia at some time tomorrow.
Tomorrow is destination Renmark – just short of 100 miles (160 km) and possibly the longest day of the trip.
I am getting better at pacing myself over the longer hauls, in terms of fluid intake and covering distances without a break - food intake also counts but not as much as these factors.
58 km leaving Colleambally a couple of weeks back is the longest stretch I have put in on this trip without rest.
The opening run of each day tends to be the longest, usually 25 - 40 kilometres although mostly, I prefer working in 15 – 20 km stretches once everything is moving.
Naturally, it always depends on prevailing conditions but this is close to what happens on a regular day of say 100 km or more.
Daylight is available at this time of year between 7 am and 5.30 pm, so the maximum day is around 10 hours anyway – 100 miles really is optimum distance in such a time frame.
Solid tailwind and extended downhill stretches are the only factors that can make a difference here.
My final day in Mildura has been pretty well low-key.
I got in fairly late after jamming downtown in a café last evening.
Folkways in 8th Street is run by a Maori guy called Joel and informal jam sessions are the norm on most nights of the week.
Instruments are already set up so it is just a matter of being there.
Informality is the key here and after 2 full years of basically not playing at all, this suited me just fine.
The standard of musicians and equipment was not maybe what I’m used to but like I said, this was very much off the record.
If there was anything to write about here, I was at least able to blow off some cobwebs and play from memory for a few hours and it really wasn’t so bad after all….
Saturday, May 3, 2008
DAY 36 - LAKE MUNGO NSW
LAKE MUNGO NSW
DAY 36
I have just visited one of the most important archaeological sites on Planet Earth.
Archaeology is not my strong hand by a long way and I am not about to win any great debates on the vagaries of how human evolution may or may not have occurred, however for the purposes of a deal of personal interest (not to mention quite a unique travel experience), Lake Mungo was a huge must when I decided to journey through this part of the world.
Mungo is the subject of many a University thesis and other rambling intellectualisations, so for the purposes of a humble blog, I will keep my commentary minimal.
From Mildura, the Willandra Lakes area (of which Mungo is the most important site) is around 110 kilometres, making Mildura the perfect place to access it.
90 kilometres of this is along corrugated dirt track, which left the option of a grand triking/camping adventure poorly situated.
The best option was always going to be an organised tour – 98% of the time, this is simply not my preference but on this occasion it was the only way to go.
Graham Clarke is a highly experienced and knowledgeable Koori guide who runs Harry Nanya Tours, which includes full-day tours of some of the main Mungo sites, the information centre, and also includes lunch and snacks.
I was also able to be picked up from my campsite, so away we went as a group of 6 on a days’ adventure to Mungo.
We were on site at Mungo by 10 am, where the entire story was compressed into a 2-hour dialogue for our digestion.
Basically (or not so basically), archaeological findings of human remains throughout the lake bed at Mungo have been dated as the oldest and most original of anywhere in the world – somewhere between 45 000 and 60 000 years old.
The importance of all this apparently puts paid to any evolution theories that humans have directly descended from various ape and baboon species across the breadth of the African continent.
The Mungo findings provide a stronger case that Australian Aboriginals are indeed the oldest and most original surviving human culture that has ever existed.
The theory of our guide was in favour of an original landmass called Gondwanaland (which is indeed widely proven) – this included what maps now call Australia, Antarctica and South America – New Zealand and South Pacific Islands as well).
This leads to the next theory that the Australian Aboriginals most likely evolved from something of what is now South America, but as floods and an Ice Age rolled in, Australia was separated and this is how the Aboriginals evolved in a more isolated and original way.
What is also known is that the Aboriginal gene is very weak – it will be watered down and eventually eliminated over time – this process is already widely activated.
Where this leaves me and my white skinned, blue-eyed and European ways, I’m not quite sure, although given the murkiness of my family history, I could conceivably be 1/512th cast Aboriginal……or something like this.
Yet another thought provoking idea that arose as our guide mapped out metaphorical timelines in the Mungo sand was that human existence counts for perhaps the equivalent of 5 seconds in the continuum of time and space.
Not much at all really and on this evidence, it well may be argued that at present rates of consumption and destruction on our tiny planet, it is highly unlikely that we be around in another 5 seconds…..
And of course, I could not have travelled all the way to Lake Mungo without at least some level of personal disaster.
Photographic opportunities abound at several points, particularly at an area called the Walls of China.
And what better time for my camera batteries to completely run out of charge than the first photo of the day?
Normally the camera will flash a warning, but on such an important occasion, why the hell should it?
With no access to a charger or spares, a fellow tourist fortunately came to the rescue with the use of her own camera (another Canon Power Shot, no less) and now the miracles of email should have these surrogate photos delivered to my inbox sometime in the next days…..
DAY 36
I have just visited one of the most important archaeological sites on Planet Earth.
Archaeology is not my strong hand by a long way and I am not about to win any great debates on the vagaries of how human evolution may or may not have occurred, however for the purposes of a deal of personal interest (not to mention quite a unique travel experience), Lake Mungo was a huge must when I decided to journey through this part of the world.
Mungo is the subject of many a University thesis and other rambling intellectualisations, so for the purposes of a humble blog, I will keep my commentary minimal.
From Mildura, the Willandra Lakes area (of which Mungo is the most important site) is around 110 kilometres, making Mildura the perfect place to access it.
90 kilometres of this is along corrugated dirt track, which left the option of a grand triking/camping adventure poorly situated.
The best option was always going to be an organised tour – 98% of the time, this is simply not my preference but on this occasion it was the only way to go.
Graham Clarke is a highly experienced and knowledgeable Koori guide who runs Harry Nanya Tours, which includes full-day tours of some of the main Mungo sites, the information centre, and also includes lunch and snacks.
I was also able to be picked up from my campsite, so away we went as a group of 6 on a days’ adventure to Mungo.
We were on site at Mungo by 10 am, where the entire story was compressed into a 2-hour dialogue for our digestion.
Basically (or not so basically), archaeological findings of human remains throughout the lake bed at Mungo have been dated as the oldest and most original of anywhere in the world – somewhere between 45 000 and 60 000 years old.
The importance of all this apparently puts paid to any evolution theories that humans have directly descended from various ape and baboon species across the breadth of the African continent.
The Mungo findings provide a stronger case that Australian Aboriginals are indeed the oldest and most original surviving human culture that has ever existed.
The theory of our guide was in favour of an original landmass called Gondwanaland (which is indeed widely proven) – this included what maps now call Australia, Antarctica and South America – New Zealand and South Pacific Islands as well).
This leads to the next theory that the Australian Aboriginals most likely evolved from something of what is now South America, but as floods and an Ice Age rolled in, Australia was separated and this is how the Aboriginals evolved in a more isolated and original way.
What is also known is that the Aboriginal gene is very weak – it will be watered down and eventually eliminated over time – this process is already widely activated.
Where this leaves me and my white skinned, blue-eyed and European ways, I’m not quite sure, although given the murkiness of my family history, I could conceivably be 1/512th cast Aboriginal……or something like this.
Yet another thought provoking idea that arose as our guide mapped out metaphorical timelines in the Mungo sand was that human existence counts for perhaps the equivalent of 5 seconds in the continuum of time and space.
Not much at all really and on this evidence, it well may be argued that at present rates of consumption and destruction on our tiny planet, it is highly unlikely that we be around in another 5 seconds…..
And of course, I could not have travelled all the way to Lake Mungo without at least some level of personal disaster.
Photographic opportunities abound at several points, particularly at an area called the Walls of China.
And what better time for my camera batteries to completely run out of charge than the first photo of the day?
Normally the camera will flash a warning, but on such an important occasion, why the hell should it?
With no access to a charger or spares, a fellow tourist fortunately came to the rescue with the use of her own camera (another Canon Power Shot, no less) and now the miracles of email should have these surrogate photos delivered to my inbox sometime in the next days…..
DAY 35 - MILDURA VIC
MILDURA VIC
DAY 35
27.96 km
Total Time: 11.30 – 17.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 1h 54m 27s
Max. Speed: 34.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 14.6 km/h
There could be worse ways to spend a day than hanging around Mildura.
I have somewhat of a different approach here already as I am getting around town on the trike.
It is the first time on the trip that this has happened, solely because of my close proximity to the centre in every town I have visited.
Not so in Mildura – my camp is about 5 kilometres out of town and this, in my opinion is way too far to walk when I can ride in about 10 minutes flat.
No problem really, so long as the little beast is chained up nice and tight when I go wandering about town.
It does however, draw a certain amount of attention which I need to be mindful of.
The low key attitude will always be my first priority, which is why I am ever happy to keep the bike locked up as I cruise about in anonymity.
So long as the trike is source of positive responses from the locals, then there need not be a problem.
And that’s the way I want to keep it.
First up though, was an early morning feed around the campfire with new found Adelaidian friends Geoff and Helena before their departure.
Chilli eggs on toast (with optional bacon, mandarin and prunes – not altogether of course) were on the menu and although not an abundant serving, it sure tasted good.
With breakfast settled, few other plans existed for the day in front of me, other than checking out the township and dealing with yet another bag of well worn 250 km laundry.
Oh, and there was also the need to book in my activity for tomorrow, which deserves to be left as a surprise for those still reading this blog.
I am looking forward to it as a very unique opportunity and Mildura is one of the few places in the world that has access to this experience.
My excellent budget diligence will need to be laid aside for just a day and the decision has been made to hang the expense.
It’s not thousands of dollars anyway – just that my current $40 per day lifestyle wouldn’t quite accommodate what will take place tomorrow.
Now I’ve made everybody smell the cheese, tomorrow’s report is compulsive reading.
DAY 35
27.96 km
Total Time: 11.30 – 17.00 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 1h 54m 27s
Max. Speed: 34.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 14.6 km/h
There could be worse ways to spend a day than hanging around Mildura.
I have somewhat of a different approach here already as I am getting around town on the trike.
It is the first time on the trip that this has happened, solely because of my close proximity to the centre in every town I have visited.
Not so in Mildura – my camp is about 5 kilometres out of town and this, in my opinion is way too far to walk when I can ride in about 10 minutes flat.
No problem really, so long as the little beast is chained up nice and tight when I go wandering about town.
It does however, draw a certain amount of attention which I need to be mindful of.
The low key attitude will always be my first priority, which is why I am ever happy to keep the bike locked up as I cruise about in anonymity.
So long as the trike is source of positive responses from the locals, then there need not be a problem.
And that’s the way I want to keep it.
First up though, was an early morning feed around the campfire with new found Adelaidian friends Geoff and Helena before their departure.
Chilli eggs on toast (with optional bacon, mandarin and prunes – not altogether of course) were on the menu and although not an abundant serving, it sure tasted good.
With breakfast settled, few other plans existed for the day in front of me, other than checking out the township and dealing with yet another bag of well worn 250 km laundry.
Oh, and there was also the need to book in my activity for tomorrow, which deserves to be left as a surprise for those still reading this blog.
I am looking forward to it as a very unique opportunity and Mildura is one of the few places in the world that has access to this experience.
My excellent budget diligence will need to be laid aside for just a day and the decision has been made to hang the expense.
It’s not thousands of dollars anyway – just that my current $40 per day lifestyle wouldn’t quite accommodate what will take place tomorrow.
Now I’ve made everybody smell the cheese, tomorrow’s report is compulsive reading.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
DAY 34 - MILDURA VIC
MILDURA VIC
DAY 34
ROBINVALE - MILDURA
101.32 km
Total Time – 09.50 – 16.50 (7h)
Time on Bike – 5h 16m 40s
Max. Speed – 42 km/h
Av. Speed – 19.2 km/h
A late start today – no particular reason other than I felt like staying in the bed awhile longer.
Just as well really, as it was coming down rain at 7 am and by 9.30 everything was dry, including the tent.
Good conditions for riding then, with a good cloud cover and cool temperatures, once again.
The light tended on gloomy all day – the sun making only a short appearance around midday.
So after a feed up in nearby Euston, it was away towards Mildura along the Sturt Highway for the first time since Wagga Wagga, nearly 3 weeks ago.
Back into New South Wales also for the entirety of today’s ride – this will be the final time in NSW on this trip, until I arrive once again in Sydney.
The drudgery of the Sturt Highway and its occupants continued for the most part of 70 kilometres before the orchards and vineyards of Mildura began lining either side of the roadway about 20 kilometres out.
I have passed many a fair share of orchards and vineyards on this trip, but would contend that nowhere has quite as many as Mildura.
It is after all, an area well known for its fertile agriculture – citrus fruits in particular - local mandarins have become my standard after dinner fare for the past week or more.
It’s a shame I have had to set up camp about 5 kilometres out of town – simply because there is no camping in Mildura itself.
There are half-a-dozen or so hostels in town, so it was a decision to take on a sterile hostel environment for a few days and keep everything within walking distance, or instead, head bush and bike the extra distance into town for daily needs.
After some brief debate, I have chosen the latter – the paydirt is some beautiful bushland camping in the area I have chosen, right on the Murray River and well away from any roads, arterial or otherwise.
I met up with Helena and Geoff about 10 minutes after arrival and not only did they cook me dinner, but have offered some space on their floor when I get to Adelaide.
They travel around on a 1960’s BSA 650, complete with fully enclosed sidecar and gas cooker – purchased by them in London in 1971 for £115.
Not content to just trundle around Europe, they rode it all the way back to Adelaide, including a stint in Iraq, which was actually still a beautiful place in 1971.
Impressive stuff.
The old girl is still on the road, currently on a return trip from Adelaide to Griffith.
And not only do I now have a game plan for Adelaide, but have also been tipped off on some preferable routes to get there.
With only 400 km to go, the alternatives will likely add a couple of days and a few more miles to the trip, but who’s counting?
Let’s just go ahead and have some fun and I’ll still get to where I’m going in good time.
DAY 34
ROBINVALE - MILDURA
101.32 km
Total Time – 09.50 – 16.50 (7h)
Time on Bike – 5h 16m 40s
Max. Speed – 42 km/h
Av. Speed – 19.2 km/h
A late start today – no particular reason other than I felt like staying in the bed awhile longer.
Just as well really, as it was coming down rain at 7 am and by 9.30 everything was dry, including the tent.
Good conditions for riding then, with a good cloud cover and cool temperatures, once again.
The light tended on gloomy all day – the sun making only a short appearance around midday.
So after a feed up in nearby Euston, it was away towards Mildura along the Sturt Highway for the first time since Wagga Wagga, nearly 3 weeks ago.
Back into New South Wales also for the entirety of today’s ride – this will be the final time in NSW on this trip, until I arrive once again in Sydney.
The drudgery of the Sturt Highway and its occupants continued for the most part of 70 kilometres before the orchards and vineyards of Mildura began lining either side of the roadway about 20 kilometres out.
I have passed many a fair share of orchards and vineyards on this trip, but would contend that nowhere has quite as many as Mildura.
It is after all, an area well known for its fertile agriculture – citrus fruits in particular - local mandarins have become my standard after dinner fare for the past week or more.
It’s a shame I have had to set up camp about 5 kilometres out of town – simply because there is no camping in Mildura itself.
There are half-a-dozen or so hostels in town, so it was a decision to take on a sterile hostel environment for a few days and keep everything within walking distance, or instead, head bush and bike the extra distance into town for daily needs.
After some brief debate, I have chosen the latter – the paydirt is some beautiful bushland camping in the area I have chosen, right on the Murray River and well away from any roads, arterial or otherwise.
I met up with Helena and Geoff about 10 minutes after arrival and not only did they cook me dinner, but have offered some space on their floor when I get to Adelaide.
They travel around on a 1960’s BSA 650, complete with fully enclosed sidecar and gas cooker – purchased by them in London in 1971 for £115.
Not content to just trundle around Europe, they rode it all the way back to Adelaide, including a stint in Iraq, which was actually still a beautiful place in 1971.
Impressive stuff.
The old girl is still on the road, currently on a return trip from Adelaide to Griffith.
And not only do I now have a game plan for Adelaide, but have also been tipped off on some preferable routes to get there.
With only 400 km to go, the alternatives will likely add a couple of days and a few more miles to the trip, but who’s counting?
Let’s just go ahead and have some fun and I’ll still get to where I’m going in good time.
DAY 33 - ROBINVALE VIC
ROBINVALE VIC
DAY 33
SWAN HILL - ROBINVALE
150 km
Total Time – 07.45 – 17.00 (9h 15m)
Time on Bike – 7h 25m 45s
Max. speed – 41.5 km/h
Av. Speed – 20.2 km/h
Second biggest day of the trip today and I’m feeling it.
Most of the terrain was undulating, which got my speed up for some extended stretches but the pay off was some extended stretches of climbing throughout.
It was a particularly dark and gloomy day in this part of the world – the first of its kind I’ve had during the trip.
The experience has basically been an entire month of wide open blue skies and aside from storm fronts on Sunday between Echuca and Kerang, today was something of an anomaly.
Best part of this though was the cool conditions. In fact I picked up some solid tailwind for the final run into Robinvale, late today.
Earlier in the morning, I was stopped along the highway by a fellow who claimed he could not see me very well as I was riding along.
It was the second time during the day he had driven past me and it was on the second occasion he felt compelled to stop.
He had a point.
I was dressed quite inappropriately for the conditions – I probably had underestimated how bad the light was today.
Add to the fact that this same fellow was standing in front of me downing a Jim Beam mixer and I felt 90% sure that he was stoned, then this is the sort of character that needs to paid attention to.
I took it as an appreciative gesture, because if I am to meet an untimely demise on the great highways of Australia, it is far more likely to be at the whim of a whacked out stoner than an impudent B-Double driver.
The B-Doubles just want to show you who’s boss – unless they genuinely don’t see you, they will give you a hard time rather than kill you – even though some of them try it on for a lark.
I have however, noticed a distinct increase of such impoliteness, probably since the town of Jerilderie about a week ago.
I’m not sure what is in the water – maybe it is the extremity of the drought in this area, but the attitude is certainly more hardcore the further I have gone along.
It may also be that the Murray Valley Highway is quite a narrow and well used runway, with little or no shoulder for miles at a time.
B-Doubles (and others) have limited stopping power and it is not necessarily easy for them to crank it down quickly from 110 km/h when I suddenly appear in front of them and there are 20 vehicles coming in the opposite direction.
I will give them at least the benefit of this doubt, even though some of them still need a kick in the face…..
DAY 33
SWAN HILL - ROBINVALE
150 km
Total Time – 07.45 – 17.00 (9h 15m)
Time on Bike – 7h 25m 45s
Max. speed – 41.5 km/h
Av. Speed – 20.2 km/h
Second biggest day of the trip today and I’m feeling it.
Most of the terrain was undulating, which got my speed up for some extended stretches but the pay off was some extended stretches of climbing throughout.
It was a particularly dark and gloomy day in this part of the world – the first of its kind I’ve had during the trip.
The experience has basically been an entire month of wide open blue skies and aside from storm fronts on Sunday between Echuca and Kerang, today was something of an anomaly.
Best part of this though was the cool conditions. In fact I picked up some solid tailwind for the final run into Robinvale, late today.
Earlier in the morning, I was stopped along the highway by a fellow who claimed he could not see me very well as I was riding along.
It was the second time during the day he had driven past me and it was on the second occasion he felt compelled to stop.
He had a point.
I was dressed quite inappropriately for the conditions – I probably had underestimated how bad the light was today.
Add to the fact that this same fellow was standing in front of me downing a Jim Beam mixer and I felt 90% sure that he was stoned, then this is the sort of character that needs to paid attention to.
I took it as an appreciative gesture, because if I am to meet an untimely demise on the great highways of Australia, it is far more likely to be at the whim of a whacked out stoner than an impudent B-Double driver.
The B-Doubles just want to show you who’s boss – unless they genuinely don’t see you, they will give you a hard time rather than kill you – even though some of them try it on for a lark.
I have however, noticed a distinct increase of such impoliteness, probably since the town of Jerilderie about a week ago.
I’m not sure what is in the water – maybe it is the extremity of the drought in this area, but the attitude is certainly more hardcore the further I have gone along.
It may also be that the Murray Valley Highway is quite a narrow and well used runway, with little or no shoulder for miles at a time.
B-Doubles (and others) have limited stopping power and it is not necessarily easy for them to crank it down quickly from 110 km/h when I suddenly appear in front of them and there are 20 vehicles coming in the opposite direction.
I will give them at least the benefit of this doubt, even though some of them still need a kick in the face…..
DAY 32 - SWAN HILL VIC
SWAN HILL VIC
DAY 32
A quiet day by standards, but perhaps the biggest event is that the weather has returned to something resembling Autumn.
Temps should be back in the low 20’s in no time.
More clear skies ahead and farewell to that wind…..
Swan Hill is home to a paddle steamer called the Pyap.
I didn’t ride this one, although it did roll its way up and down the river past my tent more than once today.
Mildura should be the final paddle steamer stop on the tour and I believe there to be a couple of beauties up there to look forward to.
The steamer here is associated with a pioneer settlement tourist attraction in Swan Hill – only 500 meters from my camp in fact.
This area is more an authentic re-working of what a township would have looked like say, about 140 years ago.
A similar idea really to an attraction called Old Sydney Town – not quite a theme park but not at all in the same league as Echuca.
The Port of Echuca is as it was in the 1860’s – just subject to some modifications and modernisations over time – and a finely preserved specimen it is.
Anyway, it is shortly time for an early night in anticipation of a long day on the road tomorrow.
I 'm estimating a 150 day followed by 80-odd into Mildura on Thursday.
There will be a few days in Mildura (which I am hoping will include a very special excursion), with only then the final few days into Adelaide sometime next week.
DAY 32
A quiet day by standards, but perhaps the biggest event is that the weather has returned to something resembling Autumn.
Temps should be back in the low 20’s in no time.
More clear skies ahead and farewell to that wind…..
Swan Hill is home to a paddle steamer called the Pyap.
I didn’t ride this one, although it did roll its way up and down the river past my tent more than once today.
Mildura should be the final paddle steamer stop on the tour and I believe there to be a couple of beauties up there to look forward to.
The steamer here is associated with a pioneer settlement tourist attraction in Swan Hill – only 500 meters from my camp in fact.
This area is more an authentic re-working of what a township would have looked like say, about 140 years ago.
A similar idea really to an attraction called Old Sydney Town – not quite a theme park but not at all in the same league as Echuca.
The Port of Echuca is as it was in the 1860’s – just subject to some modifications and modernisations over time – and a finely preserved specimen it is.
Anyway, it is shortly time for an early night in anticipation of a long day on the road tomorrow.
I 'm estimating a 150 day followed by 80-odd into Mildura on Thursday.
There will be a few days in Mildura (which I am hoping will include a very special excursion), with only then the final few days into Adelaide sometime next week.
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