QUORN SA
DAY 90
PORT AUGUSTA - QUORN
47.32 km
Total Time: 08.55 – 14.20 (5h 25m)
Time on Bike: 3h 20m 48s
Max. Speed: 50.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.1 km/h
I took on Pichi Richi Pass today in no particular hurry and was well rewarded.
A sturdy climb ensued but with clear skies and a lesser speed, the experience was somewhat more fulfilling than ripping down in no time flat and having the whole deal flash by just like that.
My day-of-rest strategy triumphed yet again and I was followed up the pass by a blustery southwester, completely in line with prior forecasts.
I just keep pulling it – 3 weeks of tailwind in all directions is going past beginners luck and I’m starting to feel as though the greater plan is looking after me pretty damned well.
I’d best say no more for now ‘cos it’s not over just yet…..
So another overnight visit in Quorn before taking on the Flinders more earnestly.
Quorn is the obvious junction of the Southern Flinders and what lies further north, which is the Flinders Ranges National Park and beyond.
What I need to get right is the balance between what I want to do here and what I can do.
The Flinders is full of both the accessible and inaccessible.
Less accessible rather than inaccessible but there’s no reason to be silly about it.
It is the kind of place that one could dedicate to many years of time and exploration and still not master the art.
So to spend a week or so of my precious time is really just to shake it by the hand and hopefully leave with a handsome impression.
At this infant stage, I would much prefer to let the Flinders adventure unfold in its own time and own unique way and then it should not really fail.
I leave Quorn for the northern town of Hawker tomorrow and the weekend awaits.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
DAY 89 - PORT AUGUSTA SA
PORT AUGUSTA SA
DAY 89
REST DAY
A wicked northerly worked up overnight and by daybreak this morning, the small but nagging list of things I have really, really needed to get done, suddenly had greater priority.
So I’ve taken an extra day in Port Augusta.
Not such a difficult decision really, ‘cos I got everything done and there is no way I wanted to be cranking up Pichi Richi Pass into that wind.
Nothing exhilarating – just laundry, some overdue internet and a few bike repairs - I attended to a couple of punctures myself, but also decided to take advantage of staying in a town with 2 bike shops and address an ongoing 4000 kilometre problem by fixing it for good.
Since my opening day rear-derailleur suffering in Sydney, I have been riding along on a makeshift 7-speed derailleur that was fitted by those kind fellows at Insane Cycles in Lithgow NSW.
Problem being that my set up is 9-speed, which basically means I’ve travelled all that way on 21 gears instead of 27.
Poor little me, indeed.
So today, I went for the compatible 9-speed and $..... later, I’m back up to speed, as it were.
All there was for the rest of the day was to sit about and wait for that wind to swing around.
And the good forecasts are calling for just this - a late evening change to the southwest, which is just sweet music to my ears…..
DAY 89
REST DAY
A wicked northerly worked up overnight and by daybreak this morning, the small but nagging list of things I have really, really needed to get done, suddenly had greater priority.
So I’ve taken an extra day in Port Augusta.
Not such a difficult decision really, ‘cos I got everything done and there is no way I wanted to be cranking up Pichi Richi Pass into that wind.
Nothing exhilarating – just laundry, some overdue internet and a few bike repairs - I attended to a couple of punctures myself, but also decided to take advantage of staying in a town with 2 bike shops and address an ongoing 4000 kilometre problem by fixing it for good.
Since my opening day rear-derailleur suffering in Sydney, I have been riding along on a makeshift 7-speed derailleur that was fitted by those kind fellows at Insane Cycles in Lithgow NSW.
Problem being that my set up is 9-speed, which basically means I’ve travelled all that way on 21 gears instead of 27.
Poor little me, indeed.
So today, I went for the compatible 9-speed and $..... later, I’m back up to speed, as it were.
All there was for the rest of the day was to sit about and wait for that wind to swing around.
And the good forecasts are calling for just this - a late evening change to the southwest, which is just sweet music to my ears…..
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
DAY 88 - PORT AUGUSTA SA
PORT AUGUSTA SA
DAY 88
PORT GERMEIN – PORT AUGUSTA
81.12 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 16.00 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 08m 01s
Max. Speed: 37.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.8 km/h
This being the second and final visit in Port Augusta for now.
After 3 weeks of tailwinds and a day to remember yesterday, the Karmic laws of the Universe had to activate sooner or later.
I traversed the section of National Highway A1 today between Port Germein and Port Augusta and I can only express relief that there is no more.
Headwind, trucks, buses, caravans, miles of groaning uphill and I won’t even refer to road surfaces.
At least the sun was shining.
I will be making the most of my sleeping hours this evening as the Pichi Richi Pass awaits tomorrow.
Having ridden down PRP some weeks ago, I will be taking the northerly ascent in the morning, ensuring some seriously hard yards.
It is only 40 km to Quorn, but it may take anything from 3 to 6 hours.
If fine weather holds however, the scenery will be stunning.
This is my reward.
Everything over the next week will be Flinders-centric and I couldn’t be happier.
The Flinders represent my final mission on this particular trip before turning back towards Adelaide and finally Melbourne, so it has to count.
Weather is the catalyst.
It can be as cold as it wants to be, but I really do want the sun to be shining, ‘cos it just won’t be as good if it isn’t.
I will set off for Quorn in the morning and am looking forward to everything that is about to happen.
DAY 88
PORT GERMEIN – PORT AUGUSTA
81.12 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 16.00 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 08m 01s
Max. Speed: 37.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.8 km/h
This being the second and final visit in Port Augusta for now.
After 3 weeks of tailwinds and a day to remember yesterday, the Karmic laws of the Universe had to activate sooner or later.
I traversed the section of National Highway A1 today between Port Germein and Port Augusta and I can only express relief that there is no more.
Headwind, trucks, buses, caravans, miles of groaning uphill and I won’t even refer to road surfaces.
At least the sun was shining.
I will be making the most of my sleeping hours this evening as the Pichi Richi Pass awaits tomorrow.
Having ridden down PRP some weeks ago, I will be taking the northerly ascent in the morning, ensuring some seriously hard yards.
It is only 40 km to Quorn, but it may take anything from 3 to 6 hours.
If fine weather holds however, the scenery will be stunning.
This is my reward.
Everything over the next week will be Flinders-centric and I couldn’t be happier.
The Flinders represent my final mission on this particular trip before turning back towards Adelaide and finally Melbourne, so it has to count.
Weather is the catalyst.
It can be as cold as it wants to be, but I really do want the sun to be shining, ‘cos it just won’t be as good if it isn’t.
I will set off for Quorn in the morning and am looking forward to everything that is about to happen.
DAY 87 - PORT GERMEIN SA
PORT GERMEIN SA
DAY 87
CRYSTAL BROOK – PORT GERMEIN
87.24 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.30 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 05m 45s
Max. Speed: 62.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.1 km/h
Laura, Stone Hut Bakery, Port Germein Gorge.
These were the experiences that made the day.
And genuine little cracker of a day it was.
Some nasty old climbing first up this morning but since I was basically taking a shortcut into heart of the Southern Flinders, I can say no more.
I chose to take the hills on their value and preferred instead to enjoy the wonderful Flinders vistas spreading out before me on all sides.
These are incredibly beautiful and ancient landscapes and it gets even better further on.
I could have been Frodo Baggins on the road to Minas Tirith this morning – well actually more like Strider on a trike – I kind of like that brooding omniscient wisdom he exudes…..
As a ride, the back run into Laura was probably the day’s highlight – even better than my afternoon foray down Port Germein Gorge, so this is a big call.
A slightly extended stop in the town of Laura (second time on this trip), then set things up for lunchtime in Stone Hut.
I would suggest there is one single reason to visit Stone Hut.
This is the same reason why most from South Australia and beyond visit and why the town has earned its rightful place on the tourist radar.
It is the Old Bakery.
For all the bakeries from coast to coast, the only one that can make a staunch claim for actually having the best pies in the Universe is Stone Hut.
I even have a fridge magnet now to prove it.
There are various other nice thingies – slices, ciders, wines, conserves etc., but the pies are really the shit.
Sadly, many of life’s little goodies don’t come for free and OBSH is not exempt.
A full-blooded Stone Hut experience doesn’t allow anyone to leave without shedding at least $20.
Outback pies get just about everyone in – Kangaroo, Ox, Goat, Camel and Crocodile are the big sellers and if there isn’t a hot one for lunch, you can raid the fridge and take one for dinner.
My personal agenda was a Spinach/Fetta number from the heater and a thick oozing Caramel Tart for the road.
With no Hot Outback options on offer, I just had to take a Cold Crocodile for some future hour.
Indeed, $20 later I decided to pedal onwards, entirely guilt-free and in high anticipation of the upcoming Port Germein Gorge.
PGG turnoff is another 25 km or so along B82 from Stone Hut, through the town of Wirrabara and up the other side of a steepish pinch.
A 27 kilometre run down the Gorge follows – the main section is a winding, narrow and highly uneven 10 km runaway.
My speed was well up for the whole deal, but my body was the victim.
This was definitely the one ride that may have given me misgivings about owning a non-suspended tricycle.
I’m generally not a small fellow but I was bouncing around like a wee little baby all the way down.
Making a few odd noises along the way as well.
I was really trying my hardest to express joy in the moment but most of it was actually the wind being thrashed out of me over humps, bumps, tree roots and other butchered surfaces at around 60 km/h.
At speed, it all came and went too quickly.
As much as I lapped up a massive rollaway through the some of the oldest and deepest crevices of the Southern Flinders, the road surface really did suck and the dull light conditions once again did not offer things at their best.
I set down in Port Germein by 4.30 pm and the day had surely earned its stripes.
By choice, my Crocodile Pie has been postponed until Port Augusta tomorrow and instead I elected for what became a fairly inadequate affair at the local pub.
I guess this means that Croc is gonna taste even better tomorrow night.
DAY 87
CRYSTAL BROOK – PORT GERMEIN
87.24 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.30 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 05m 45s
Max. Speed: 62.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.1 km/h
Laura, Stone Hut Bakery, Port Germein Gorge.
These were the experiences that made the day.
And genuine little cracker of a day it was.
Some nasty old climbing first up this morning but since I was basically taking a shortcut into heart of the Southern Flinders, I can say no more.
I chose to take the hills on their value and preferred instead to enjoy the wonderful Flinders vistas spreading out before me on all sides.
These are incredibly beautiful and ancient landscapes and it gets even better further on.
I could have been Frodo Baggins on the road to Minas Tirith this morning – well actually more like Strider on a trike – I kind of like that brooding omniscient wisdom he exudes…..
As a ride, the back run into Laura was probably the day’s highlight – even better than my afternoon foray down Port Germein Gorge, so this is a big call.
A slightly extended stop in the town of Laura (second time on this trip), then set things up for lunchtime in Stone Hut.
I would suggest there is one single reason to visit Stone Hut.
This is the same reason why most from South Australia and beyond visit and why the town has earned its rightful place on the tourist radar.
It is the Old Bakery.
For all the bakeries from coast to coast, the only one that can make a staunch claim for actually having the best pies in the Universe is Stone Hut.
I even have a fridge magnet now to prove it.
There are various other nice thingies – slices, ciders, wines, conserves etc., but the pies are really the shit.
Sadly, many of life’s little goodies don’t come for free and OBSH is not exempt.
A full-blooded Stone Hut experience doesn’t allow anyone to leave without shedding at least $20.
Outback pies get just about everyone in – Kangaroo, Ox, Goat, Camel and Crocodile are the big sellers and if there isn’t a hot one for lunch, you can raid the fridge and take one for dinner.
My personal agenda was a Spinach/Fetta number from the heater and a thick oozing Caramel Tart for the road.
With no Hot Outback options on offer, I just had to take a Cold Crocodile for some future hour.
Indeed, $20 later I decided to pedal onwards, entirely guilt-free and in high anticipation of the upcoming Port Germein Gorge.
PGG turnoff is another 25 km or so along B82 from Stone Hut, through the town of Wirrabara and up the other side of a steepish pinch.
A 27 kilometre run down the Gorge follows – the main section is a winding, narrow and highly uneven 10 km runaway.
My speed was well up for the whole deal, but my body was the victim.
This was definitely the one ride that may have given me misgivings about owning a non-suspended tricycle.
I’m generally not a small fellow but I was bouncing around like a wee little baby all the way down.
Making a few odd noises along the way as well.
I was really trying my hardest to express joy in the moment but most of it was actually the wind being thrashed out of me over humps, bumps, tree roots and other butchered surfaces at around 60 km/h.
At speed, it all came and went too quickly.
As much as I lapped up a massive rollaway through the some of the oldest and deepest crevices of the Southern Flinders, the road surface really did suck and the dull light conditions once again did not offer things at their best.
I set down in Port Germein by 4.30 pm and the day had surely earned its stripes.
By choice, my Crocodile Pie has been postponed until Port Augusta tomorrow and instead I elected for what became a fairly inadequate affair at the local pub.
I guess this means that Croc is gonna taste even better tomorrow night.
DAY 86 - CRYSTAL BROOK SA
CRYSTAL BROOK SA
DAY 86
PORT BROUGHTON – CRYSTAL BROOK
51.96 km
Total Time: 09.40 – 17.40 (8h)
Time on Bike: 3h 10m 52s
Max. Speed: 36.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.3 km/h
8 hours is an inordinate amount of time to be on the road for 50 kilometres.
I can explain.
Trundling along this morning minding my own business in the middle of somewhere, I could see some strangers on the road, way up ahead.
One, then another and then maybe 3, so pulling closer I stopped to talk.
These people, as it happened were a group of volunteers, spending their Sunday morning bush loving within the Clements Gap Conservation Park.
Within 5 minutes, another vehicle arrived and behind this, a small convoy full of more bush lovers.
Amongst the rush was an invitation for me to join them all for a barbeque lunch, so long as I didn’t mind waiting around for an hour or so.
Thanking them kindly, I pushed on with some ambivalence but no sooner paused metres ahead for some photo time.
The incline to the Southern Flinders is about as worthy of photo time as anything gets, so it wasn’t as if I was stalling for time or anything.
Still, 20 minutes later and that lunch invitation was fresh enough to warrant a gentle coast back down the hill to take it up.
And this is what became of my afternoon.
A 4-hour impromptu barbeque luncheon at the foot of the Flinders Ranges with 30-odd strangers is not such a terrible use of a Sunday afternoon.
By 4 pm however, 20 kilometres of hill and dale remained to Crystal Brook and it was time roll again.
Good food had mixed with wine and beer for the duration and I must stress drink-riding is not something I endorse, it’s just that sometimes…..
I am alive and well made it to Crystal Brook this evening.
My Flinders adventure now awaits over the next week or more ahead.
DAY 86
PORT BROUGHTON – CRYSTAL BROOK
51.96 km
Total Time: 09.40 – 17.40 (8h)
Time on Bike: 3h 10m 52s
Max. Speed: 36.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.3 km/h
8 hours is an inordinate amount of time to be on the road for 50 kilometres.
I can explain.
Trundling along this morning minding my own business in the middle of somewhere, I could see some strangers on the road, way up ahead.
One, then another and then maybe 3, so pulling closer I stopped to talk.
These people, as it happened were a group of volunteers, spending their Sunday morning bush loving within the Clements Gap Conservation Park.
Within 5 minutes, another vehicle arrived and behind this, a small convoy full of more bush lovers.
Amongst the rush was an invitation for me to join them all for a barbeque lunch, so long as I didn’t mind waiting around for an hour or so.
Thanking them kindly, I pushed on with some ambivalence but no sooner paused metres ahead for some photo time.
The incline to the Southern Flinders is about as worthy of photo time as anything gets, so it wasn’t as if I was stalling for time or anything.
Still, 20 minutes later and that lunch invitation was fresh enough to warrant a gentle coast back down the hill to take it up.
And this is what became of my afternoon.
A 4-hour impromptu barbeque luncheon at the foot of the Flinders Ranges with 30-odd strangers is not such a terrible use of a Sunday afternoon.
By 4 pm however, 20 kilometres of hill and dale remained to Crystal Brook and it was time roll again.
Good food had mixed with wine and beer for the duration and I must stress drink-riding is not something I endorse, it’s just that sometimes…..
I am alive and well made it to Crystal Brook this evening.
My Flinders adventure now awaits over the next week or more ahead.
DAY 85 - PORT BROUGHTON SA
PORT BROUGHTON SA
DAY 85
KADINA – PORT BROUGHTON
50.91 km
Total Time: 12.00 – 14.45 (2h 45m)
Time on Bike: 2h 34m 47s
Max. Speed: 42.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.7 km/h
I would like to dedicate today’s ride to Esbjörn Svensson – a pianist, jazz musician, composer and leader of the great Swedish band E.S.T who died in a sea diving accident last weekend.
Beautiful and original music is hard to come by these days and E.S.T was responsible for creating some heartfelt and exciting new music that was gaining more and more popularity around the world.
E.S.T were successfully crossing over from smoky jazz clubs to rock arenas and concert halls everywhere they played and all without gimmicks and celebrity that many lesser acts need to gain fame in this day and age.
Life just isn’t fair sometimes – especially when such people leave quickly and before their time.
I still haven’t worked it out but certain things aren’t easy to accept.
RIP Esbjörn Svensson with deepest respect. (1964 – 2008)
DAY 85
KADINA – PORT BROUGHTON
50.91 km
Total Time: 12.00 – 14.45 (2h 45m)
Time on Bike: 2h 34m 47s
Max. Speed: 42.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.7 km/h
I would like to dedicate today’s ride to Esbjörn Svensson – a pianist, jazz musician, composer and leader of the great Swedish band E.S.T who died in a sea diving accident last weekend.
Beautiful and original music is hard to come by these days and E.S.T was responsible for creating some heartfelt and exciting new music that was gaining more and more popularity around the world.
E.S.T were successfully crossing over from smoky jazz clubs to rock arenas and concert halls everywhere they played and all without gimmicks and celebrity that many lesser acts need to gain fame in this day and age.
Life just isn’t fair sometimes – especially when such people leave quickly and before their time.
I still haven’t worked it out but certain things aren’t easy to accept.
RIP Esbjörn Svensson with deepest respect. (1964 – 2008)
Friday, June 20, 2008
DAY 84 - KADINA SA
KADINA SA
DAY 84
PORT VICTORIA - KADINA
89.07 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.45 (7h 45m)
Time on Bike: 5h 01m 41s
Max. Speed: 39.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.7 km/h
I have arrived in Kadina more out of necessity than choice.
Moonta Bay was probably the best location for tonight.
Kadina is an unremarkable town by Yorke Peninsula standards but the payoff is that it is the biggest and best appointed service centre in the region by some distance.
Hence I am able to get my trolley wheels re-spoked here and not a day too soon.
One of them was particularly bad - it probably would not have made it to the next location.
By tomorrow though, I should be set for an onwards trip to the Flinders.
The other obvious advantage of Kadina is it is directly connected to the next destination, Port Broughton.
My feeling is to spend the weekend up there and then set off for my Flinders adventure on Monday morning.
I have scored a cosy $20 cabin for the evening, which does mean my tent stays wet for another 24 hours but at only 200 metres from the Port Broughton turnoff, I have but to collect the repaired wheels in the morning and away I go.
I’ve also never been gladder to have stayed awhile down in Edithburgh, as I continue to reap the southerly tailwind that swung around during Wednesday’s storm.
It was of little benefit this morning however, as I opened the account with 22 kilometres of tedious uphill crunch as a winter warmer.
112 minutes later and just shy of midday, I crawled into the town of Maitland at a tick or so over 9 km/h and in a mood like a dog’s arse.
In lieu of kicking something (or someone), I skulked into the local IGA for some well overdue breakfast snacks at the now well-frequented bargain bin and this seemed to work small wonders in alleviating my fug.
A belly full of sweet things together with some hearty conversation with a few yokels had me recharged and ready for the next 35 km section into Moonta.
It was not nearly half as bad and I wheeled into town right on 90 minutes later.
And in Moonta I could have stayed.
Further enquiry however, had it as much more prudent to push another hour through to Kadina and take care of business.
So this is what I have done.
DAY 84
PORT VICTORIA - KADINA
89.07 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.45 (7h 45m)
Time on Bike: 5h 01m 41s
Max. Speed: 39.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.7 km/h
I have arrived in Kadina more out of necessity than choice.
Moonta Bay was probably the best location for tonight.
Kadina is an unremarkable town by Yorke Peninsula standards but the payoff is that it is the biggest and best appointed service centre in the region by some distance.
Hence I am able to get my trolley wheels re-spoked here and not a day too soon.
One of them was particularly bad - it probably would not have made it to the next location.
By tomorrow though, I should be set for an onwards trip to the Flinders.
The other obvious advantage of Kadina is it is directly connected to the next destination, Port Broughton.
My feeling is to spend the weekend up there and then set off for my Flinders adventure on Monday morning.
I have scored a cosy $20 cabin for the evening, which does mean my tent stays wet for another 24 hours but at only 200 metres from the Port Broughton turnoff, I have but to collect the repaired wheels in the morning and away I go.
I’ve also never been gladder to have stayed awhile down in Edithburgh, as I continue to reap the southerly tailwind that swung around during Wednesday’s storm.
It was of little benefit this morning however, as I opened the account with 22 kilometres of tedious uphill crunch as a winter warmer.
112 minutes later and just shy of midday, I crawled into the town of Maitland at a tick or so over 9 km/h and in a mood like a dog’s arse.
In lieu of kicking something (or someone), I skulked into the local IGA for some well overdue breakfast snacks at the now well-frequented bargain bin and this seemed to work small wonders in alleviating my fug.
A belly full of sweet things together with some hearty conversation with a few yokels had me recharged and ready for the next 35 km section into Moonta.
It was not nearly half as bad and I wheeled into town right on 90 minutes later.
And in Moonta I could have stayed.
Further enquiry however, had it as much more prudent to push another hour through to Kadina and take care of business.
So this is what I have done.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
DAY 83 - PORT VICTORIA SA
PORT VICTORIA SA
DAY 83
EDITHBURGH – PORT VICTORIA
99.45 km
Total Time: 08.15 – 15.00 (6h 45m)
Time on Bike: 5h 17m 33s
Max. Speed: 38.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.8 km/h
My pedals keep turning and I satisfy expectations every day.
There is now only one more stop to complete a circuit of Yorke Peninsula and it has been done quickly.
From sunrise on the east coast this morning, I have crossed once again to the western, Spencer Gulf side of the peninsula for sunset this evening.
Port Victoria is one of the nicer places to be on this small strip of land.
There is history enough for those interested in all things maritime and the usual bounty of fishing to be had.
Personally, I just like turning up in a beautifully situated peaceful place to look out and just see the ocean and clouds and sky and sun.
Of course a few well-positioned Norfolk Island pines are always good Feng Shui.
My needs are quite simple really.
So long as there is a hot shower at the end of a good ride and a feed for the Kings at sundown, I will mostly sleep in peace.
Keeping each day on a tidy budget also helps the cause along.
The next few days however, are a mission of getting both drunk trailer wheels re-spoked.
I return to the “Copper Triangle” tomorrow – Moonta, Kadina and Wallaroo – these 3 towns are the main service centres for Yorke Peninsula, so my business should take place in one of these.
DAY 83
EDITHBURGH – PORT VICTORIA
99.45 km
Total Time: 08.15 – 15.00 (6h 45m)
Time on Bike: 5h 17m 33s
Max. Speed: 38.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.8 km/h
My pedals keep turning and I satisfy expectations every day.
There is now only one more stop to complete a circuit of Yorke Peninsula and it has been done quickly.
From sunrise on the east coast this morning, I have crossed once again to the western, Spencer Gulf side of the peninsula for sunset this evening.
Port Victoria is one of the nicer places to be on this small strip of land.
There is history enough for those interested in all things maritime and the usual bounty of fishing to be had.
Personally, I just like turning up in a beautifully situated peaceful place to look out and just see the ocean and clouds and sky and sun.
Of course a few well-positioned Norfolk Island pines are always good Feng Shui.
My needs are quite simple really.
So long as there is a hot shower at the end of a good ride and a feed for the Kings at sundown, I will mostly sleep in peace.
Keeping each day on a tidy budget also helps the cause along.
The next few days however, are a mission of getting both drunk trailer wheels re-spoked.
I return to the “Copper Triangle” tomorrow – Moonta, Kadina and Wallaroo – these 3 towns are the main service centres for Yorke Peninsula, so my business should take place in one of these.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
DAY 82 - EDITHBURGH SA
EDITHBURGH SA
DAY 82
I feel vindicated after the storm today.
What it did was dissipate the wind and now I’m free to keep moving.
And if you’re going to be trapped somewhere for a while, then Edithburgh is really not so bad for a day or two.
All of my sightseeing was completed this morning before the rain.
I must have known it was coming.
There was some nice photography around the tidal baths and I also made it up to the Wattle Point Wind Farm – Australia’s largest of its kind.
54 of the 55 turbines were working today.
Each 67 metre tower powers 950 homes each and these 55 turbines are spread over 11 sq. kilometres.
So I did some math.
It is approximately 1500 kilometres from Ceduna to Esperance.
Based on spreading the approximate 5 turbines over each square kilometre, 7500 turbines could potentially line up along the entire length of the Great Australian Bight, powering over 7 million Australian homes.
Increase this to 7 or 8 turbines per sq/km and you’re basically powering the entire country.
The only problems here are the upfront costs and manpower to get the turbines up and running and then of course, plugging them into the main grid.
I argue most strongly that any country that can organise and waste billions of dollars on Olympic Games as well as build multi-million dollar, state-of-the-art torture chambers for boat people can surely put a few more wind farms around the place and choose to part of the solution for once…..
The forecasts that count had the wind changing by tomorrow.
The drunks at the pub last night had the northerly buster hanging around until August.
In fact, the wind has moved on altogether.
Suits me just fine.
I also need to attend to some running bike repairs – broken spokes aplenty and they need to be fixed, so all the more reason to start heading back north and getting things done.
Yorketown, Minlaton, Port Victoria and maybe even Stansbury are on the radar for tomorrow.
Where I end up is entirely unknown, but as usual I know it will all work out.
DAY 82
I feel vindicated after the storm today.
What it did was dissipate the wind and now I’m free to keep moving.
And if you’re going to be trapped somewhere for a while, then Edithburgh is really not so bad for a day or two.
All of my sightseeing was completed this morning before the rain.
I must have known it was coming.
There was some nice photography around the tidal baths and I also made it up to the Wattle Point Wind Farm – Australia’s largest of its kind.
54 of the 55 turbines were working today.
Each 67 metre tower powers 950 homes each and these 55 turbines are spread over 11 sq. kilometres.
So I did some math.
It is approximately 1500 kilometres from Ceduna to Esperance.
Based on spreading the approximate 5 turbines over each square kilometre, 7500 turbines could potentially line up along the entire length of the Great Australian Bight, powering over 7 million Australian homes.
Increase this to 7 or 8 turbines per sq/km and you’re basically powering the entire country.
The only problems here are the upfront costs and manpower to get the turbines up and running and then of course, plugging them into the main grid.
I argue most strongly that any country that can organise and waste billions of dollars on Olympic Games as well as build multi-million dollar, state-of-the-art torture chambers for boat people can surely put a few more wind farms around the place and choose to part of the solution for once…..
The forecasts that count had the wind changing by tomorrow.
The drunks at the pub last night had the northerly buster hanging around until August.
In fact, the wind has moved on altogether.
Suits me just fine.
I also need to attend to some running bike repairs – broken spokes aplenty and they need to be fixed, so all the more reason to start heading back north and getting things done.
Yorketown, Minlaton, Port Victoria and maybe even Stansbury are on the radar for tomorrow.
Where I end up is entirely unknown, but as usual I know it will all work out.
DAY 81 - EDITHBURGH SA
EDITHBURGH SA
DAY 81
ARDROSSAN - EDITHBURGH
95.68 km
Total Time: 09.45 – 15.45 (6h)
Time on Bike: 4h 33m 33s
Max. Speed: 62.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 21 km/h
Today was dominated by the ugliest cold bitch of a wind blowing out of the north.
I’m allowed to call it this because I had it as tailwind for 90 kilometres – that’s how bad it was.
There is no chance I will be heading back north into it, so here I will stay until it either abates or swings around.
Various forecasts have it changing by Thursday or depending on who you talk to, it is here to stay for another week.
Edithburgh is in the south-eastern corner of Yorke Peninsula – “the heel of the boot”, as it were.
Well, the Achilles Tendon really but I’m not going to quibble.
I bypassed both Port Vincent and Stansbury on the way through – places I may ordinarily have stayed over in.
The wind was concurrently a deterrent and encouragement in my decision to keep moving.
So bad was it that normally beautiful surroundings would have been no fun at all.
And on the other side of this was the self-same wind blowing me along the St Vincent Highway, just as if I were being shot out of a gun.
I had to make the most of it.
But now having come as far south as I possibly can, the only way back is straight into the teeth of it.
Edithburgh is inviting enough to spend at least another day.
Coastal walks, tidal rock pools and a wind farm just over the hill should provide a small portfolio of photo ops, so I’ll be straight into it.
Just a shame the dopey grey conditions nullified the red glowing cliffs at Ardrossan this morning.
Save for around 10 minutes after sunrise, it was a non-event.
The sunrise alone was worth it though – an absolute “speccy”, as we may say around here.
DAY 81
ARDROSSAN - EDITHBURGH
95.68 km
Total Time: 09.45 – 15.45 (6h)
Time on Bike: 4h 33m 33s
Max. Speed: 62.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 21 km/h
Today was dominated by the ugliest cold bitch of a wind blowing out of the north.
I’m allowed to call it this because I had it as tailwind for 90 kilometres – that’s how bad it was.
There is no chance I will be heading back north into it, so here I will stay until it either abates or swings around.
Various forecasts have it changing by Thursday or depending on who you talk to, it is here to stay for another week.
Edithburgh is in the south-eastern corner of Yorke Peninsula – “the heel of the boot”, as it were.
Well, the Achilles Tendon really but I’m not going to quibble.
I bypassed both Port Vincent and Stansbury on the way through – places I may ordinarily have stayed over in.
The wind was concurrently a deterrent and encouragement in my decision to keep moving.
So bad was it that normally beautiful surroundings would have been no fun at all.
And on the other side of this was the self-same wind blowing me along the St Vincent Highway, just as if I were being shot out of a gun.
I had to make the most of it.
But now having come as far south as I possibly can, the only way back is straight into the teeth of it.
Edithburgh is inviting enough to spend at least another day.
Coastal walks, tidal rock pools and a wind farm just over the hill should provide a small portfolio of photo ops, so I’ll be straight into it.
Just a shame the dopey grey conditions nullified the red glowing cliffs at Ardrossan this morning.
Save for around 10 minutes after sunrise, it was a non-event.
The sunrise alone was worth it though – an absolute “speccy”, as we may say around here.
Monday, June 16, 2008
DAY 80 - ARDROSSAN SA
ARDROSSAN SA
DAY 80
WALLAROO – ARDROSSAN
79.23 km
Total Time: 09.45 – 15.15 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 25m 57s
Max. Speed: 44.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.9 km/h
Around the world in 80 days?
Not quite, although I’m sure it is quite possible.
Still, I reckon I’ve covered a lot of territory in this time.
Better this than sitting at home watching television. Life is all about the experience, after all.
It’s not over yet either – life that is.
Nor this particular sabbatical.
There is still ground to be covered and discoveries to be made – all with my own unique sense of timing and according to the greater plan.
I’m looking forward to it all now, mainly because I’ve been a little flat for just a few days.
Not sure if I was wanting to keep it rolling or not and be putting in the extra effort to get around.
I think it was all the hills messing with my head.
They can do that, hills.
Especially ones the size of those I’ve been climbing.
Today was not exactly flat either.
I’ve got to keep it together though – hills are hills and they aren’t going anywhere and what else is there to do?
Turn around and go back?
Not in your life.
Anyway, this Yorke Peninsula is too nice to miss.
Just think of crisp, clean bright blue air and a gentle ocean breeze whispering through the pines with water quietly lapping away as you close your eyes and drift away.
Now is the best time to be here.
The air is fresher and the water bluer. It is difficult to imagine a more uncomplicated scenario.
Winter days are bright and short at present, the nights cold and heavy with dew.
Ardrossan is fairly famous for its red, glowing cliffs and not without good cause.
With an eastern frontage, they are going to look best around sunrise.
I’d best be up and around with a camera come early morn.
Tuesday is a good day to travel south and a good day to maybe reach Port Vincent.
And another day in the world.
DAY 80
WALLAROO – ARDROSSAN
79.23 km
Total Time: 09.45 – 15.15 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 25m 57s
Max. Speed: 44.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.9 km/h
Around the world in 80 days?
Not quite, although I’m sure it is quite possible.
Still, I reckon I’ve covered a lot of territory in this time.
Better this than sitting at home watching television. Life is all about the experience, after all.
It’s not over yet either – life that is.
Nor this particular sabbatical.
There is still ground to be covered and discoveries to be made – all with my own unique sense of timing and according to the greater plan.
I’m looking forward to it all now, mainly because I’ve been a little flat for just a few days.
Not sure if I was wanting to keep it rolling or not and be putting in the extra effort to get around.
I think it was all the hills messing with my head.
They can do that, hills.
Especially ones the size of those I’ve been climbing.
Today was not exactly flat either.
I’ve got to keep it together though – hills are hills and they aren’t going anywhere and what else is there to do?
Turn around and go back?
Not in your life.
Anyway, this Yorke Peninsula is too nice to miss.
Just think of crisp, clean bright blue air and a gentle ocean breeze whispering through the pines with water quietly lapping away as you close your eyes and drift away.
Now is the best time to be here.
The air is fresher and the water bluer. It is difficult to imagine a more uncomplicated scenario.
Winter days are bright and short at present, the nights cold and heavy with dew.
Ardrossan is fairly famous for its red, glowing cliffs and not without good cause.
With an eastern frontage, they are going to look best around sunrise.
I’d best be up and around with a camera come early morn.
Tuesday is a good day to travel south and a good day to maybe reach Port Vincent.
And another day in the world.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
DAY 79 - WALLAROO SA
WALLAROO SA
DAY 79
REST DAY
A well-earned rest day on a fresh and sunny Sunday.
Yorke Peninsula beckons and Wallaroo is a welcome starting point.
I am camped in the North Beach area – a long established shanty strip with prime Spencer Gulf frontage and not much else about until recently.
Up until about 5 years ago, I’d reckon no one else in the world knew (or cared) that Wallaroo even existed, except either those who live and work here or those who came to fish.
Something has changed.
Copper Cove has come to town and along with it cashed up retirees, big city burn-outs and other wealthy investors turning what was not previously more than a sand dune into multi-million dollar real estate, complete with man-made channels, private jetties and Yorke Peninsula’s first high-rise hotel.
It is either paradise or a fucking eyesore – depending on your outlook.
Big city prices are a big part of the deal and I can only imagine new residents are adopting safe and comfortable lifestyles here.
Or else, at only 2½ hours from Adelaide, all those overpaid executives are cruising by one weekend and buying up convenient paradise the next for whatever it takes.
I actually don’t mind it.
I can easily say this when I could never afford to live here, but there are easily worse places to be.
Wallaroo is beautiful little town and unlike everything on Eyre Peninsula, is not so far away from the rest of the world.
And there is also something about Norfolk Island Pines that make you feel like you’re permanently on vacation….
Having enjoyed my little rest day, I will also enjoy getting back on the road tomorrow.
I believe I will be heading towards Ardrossan, on the eastern shoreline of Gulf St Vincent and from here a series of short hops down the coast as far south as Edithburgh.
Completing a circuit of Yorke Peninsula is not a big ask, so am allowing not much more than10 days, even with a few stops along the way.
For now, no more predictions beyond this and let’s see what happens.
DAY 79
REST DAY
A well-earned rest day on a fresh and sunny Sunday.
Yorke Peninsula beckons and Wallaroo is a welcome starting point.
I am camped in the North Beach area – a long established shanty strip with prime Spencer Gulf frontage and not much else about until recently.
Up until about 5 years ago, I’d reckon no one else in the world knew (or cared) that Wallaroo even existed, except either those who live and work here or those who came to fish.
Something has changed.
Copper Cove has come to town and along with it cashed up retirees, big city burn-outs and other wealthy investors turning what was not previously more than a sand dune into multi-million dollar real estate, complete with man-made channels, private jetties and Yorke Peninsula’s first high-rise hotel.
It is either paradise or a fucking eyesore – depending on your outlook.
Big city prices are a big part of the deal and I can only imagine new residents are adopting safe and comfortable lifestyles here.
Or else, at only 2½ hours from Adelaide, all those overpaid executives are cruising by one weekend and buying up convenient paradise the next for whatever it takes.
I actually don’t mind it.
I can easily say this when I could never afford to live here, but there are easily worse places to be.
Wallaroo is beautiful little town and unlike everything on Eyre Peninsula, is not so far away from the rest of the world.
And there is also something about Norfolk Island Pines that make you feel like you’re permanently on vacation….
Having enjoyed my little rest day, I will also enjoy getting back on the road tomorrow.
I believe I will be heading towards Ardrossan, on the eastern shoreline of Gulf St Vincent and from here a series of short hops down the coast as far south as Edithburgh.
Completing a circuit of Yorke Peninsula is not a big ask, so am allowing not much more than10 days, even with a few stops along the way.
For now, no more predictions beyond this and let’s see what happens.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
DAY 78 - WALLAROO SA
WALLAROO SA
DAY 78
CLEVE – WALLAROO (BIKE + FERRY)
67.21 km
Total Time: 08.00 – 15.00 (7h)
Time on Bike: 3h 50m 18s
Max. Speed: 57.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.5 km/h
I arrived today on Yorke Peninsula.
This is the middle piece of territory hanging off the bottom of SA.
Where to go and what to do next is not decided, although 450 kilometres since leaving Ceduna on Tuesday morning and I’m pretty hilled-out so there is a rest day due.
But first, back to today.
It was a 42 km, 3-hour haul from Cleve to Cowell and a cool, cloudy cruise it turned out to be.
I also spent a lot of time looking upwards.
This fascination for massive hills and how they intrude on what I normally regard as fun may still be the subject of a future human-interest lobby.
Something of an underground hill-chaser network – strange loners who travel to all corners, seeking out the most brutal of climbs and then spreading the wealth amongst other birds of feather or anyone else who may be the slightest bit interested.
I would imagine that somewhere out there, people are already doing it.
Or if not, the idea is all mine - here and now.
Still, my belief in destiny is strong enough to realise when things happen for a reason.
Consider this:
- All those nasty old monster hills between Cleve and Cowell, turning a normally straightforward 2-hour transit into an all-morning ordeal.
- Arriving in Cowell at 11 am with no intention to stay but no other game plan.
- Finding out at 11.05 that a once-daily ferry to Yorke Peninsula departs at 12 pm in Lucky Bay, 15 km away.
- Spending 5 minutes between 11.05 and 11.10 looking for a tree in Cowell under which to pitch my tent.
- Taking off at 11.10 on a fit of pique in an insane attempt to make the ferry.
- Afterburning for 50 minutes over 15 km of uphill pinch and diabolical gravel roads to make the ferry at 12.00.28.
- Receiving a round of applause from everyone onboard who had driven past and not stopped to offer me a lift.
So here I am in Wallaroo and here I will stay until Monday.
Amen.
DAY 78
CLEVE – WALLAROO (BIKE + FERRY)
67.21 km
Total Time: 08.00 – 15.00 (7h)
Time on Bike: 3h 50m 18s
Max. Speed: 57.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.5 km/h
I arrived today on Yorke Peninsula.
This is the middle piece of territory hanging off the bottom of SA.
Where to go and what to do next is not decided, although 450 kilometres since leaving Ceduna on Tuesday morning and I’m pretty hilled-out so there is a rest day due.
But first, back to today.
It was a 42 km, 3-hour haul from Cleve to Cowell and a cool, cloudy cruise it turned out to be.
I also spent a lot of time looking upwards.
This fascination for massive hills and how they intrude on what I normally regard as fun may still be the subject of a future human-interest lobby.
Something of an underground hill-chaser network – strange loners who travel to all corners, seeking out the most brutal of climbs and then spreading the wealth amongst other birds of feather or anyone else who may be the slightest bit interested.
I would imagine that somewhere out there, people are already doing it.
Or if not, the idea is all mine - here and now.
Still, my belief in destiny is strong enough to realise when things happen for a reason.
Consider this:
- All those nasty old monster hills between Cleve and Cowell, turning a normally straightforward 2-hour transit into an all-morning ordeal.
- Arriving in Cowell at 11 am with no intention to stay but no other game plan.
- Finding out at 11.05 that a once-daily ferry to Yorke Peninsula departs at 12 pm in Lucky Bay, 15 km away.
- Spending 5 minutes between 11.05 and 11.10 looking for a tree in Cowell under which to pitch my tent.
- Taking off at 11.10 on a fit of pique in an insane attempt to make the ferry.
- Afterburning for 50 minutes over 15 km of uphill pinch and diabolical gravel roads to make the ferry at 12.00.28.
- Receiving a round of applause from everyone onboard who had driven past and not stopped to offer me a lift.
So here I am in Wallaroo and here I will stay until Monday.
Amen.
DAY 77 - CLEVE SA
CLEVE SA
DAY 77
KIMBA - CLEVE
81.96 km
Total Time: 08.30 – 15.30 (7h)
Time on Bike: 5h 41m 02s
Max. Speed: 59.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 14.4 km/h
The best plans are meant to be altered.
There must be a reason, but it is hardly ever obvious.
From having the Nuttbush Retreat all but locked in for this evening, I have somehow ended up 80 kilometres south in the mountain village of Cleve.
Upon further enquiry, the Nuttbush set up was just not agreeable with my mode of travel.
I would have needed to carry up to 2 days supplies in with me and they would have also had to travel a full 120 kilometres along the Eyre Highway.
This left me with an 11th and ¾ hour conundrum.
All packed and set – logistically and psychologically – for a solid day along the Eyre to the next destination.
But by 9.30 am it really wasn’t on.
I was left with 3 options as I saw it:
A) Stay in Kimba another day and go for a 160 km Port Augusta long-haul on Saturday.
B) Push ahead and run the gauntlet to Nuttbush overloaded with Baked Beans and other tins of shit to somehow get me through.
C) Get out the map and find an alternative destination.
Option C won the day.
Cleve is a mere 70 kilometres from Kimba and a mighty mountain climb it is.
These are some serious and relentless pinches.
Today was the second slowest day of the trip – the slowest since the Day 2 Katoomba haul over the Blue Mountains.
Rolling skyward through the tumbledown wheat hills of the Eyre Peninsula was as scenically uninspiring as it was gruelling.
Yesterday was a grind of a day, relieved only by a hammering tailwind.
I couldn’t even pull this today – a nagging southerly headwind pinned me down in the quicksand, leaving a wretched slog across one endless mountaintop after another.
100 km yesterday was as good as 130.
80 today, as good as 120.
My unexpected location has now also disrupted existing onwards plans, so I’d best refrain from any more grand predictions.
I will taking off down the mountainside tomorrow morning as far as Cowell and then the rest is a big, scary mystery.
DAY 77
KIMBA - CLEVE
81.96 km
Total Time: 08.30 – 15.30 (7h)
Time on Bike: 5h 41m 02s
Max. Speed: 59.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 14.4 km/h
The best plans are meant to be altered.
There must be a reason, but it is hardly ever obvious.
From having the Nuttbush Retreat all but locked in for this evening, I have somehow ended up 80 kilometres south in the mountain village of Cleve.
Upon further enquiry, the Nuttbush set up was just not agreeable with my mode of travel.
I would have needed to carry up to 2 days supplies in with me and they would have also had to travel a full 120 kilometres along the Eyre Highway.
This left me with an 11th and ¾ hour conundrum.
All packed and set – logistically and psychologically – for a solid day along the Eyre to the next destination.
But by 9.30 am it really wasn’t on.
I was left with 3 options as I saw it:
A) Stay in Kimba another day and go for a 160 km Port Augusta long-haul on Saturday.
B) Push ahead and run the gauntlet to Nuttbush overloaded with Baked Beans and other tins of shit to somehow get me through.
C) Get out the map and find an alternative destination.
Option C won the day.
Cleve is a mere 70 kilometres from Kimba and a mighty mountain climb it is.
These are some serious and relentless pinches.
Today was the second slowest day of the trip – the slowest since the Day 2 Katoomba haul over the Blue Mountains.
Rolling skyward through the tumbledown wheat hills of the Eyre Peninsula was as scenically uninspiring as it was gruelling.
Yesterday was a grind of a day, relieved only by a hammering tailwind.
I couldn’t even pull this today – a nagging southerly headwind pinned me down in the quicksand, leaving a wretched slog across one endless mountaintop after another.
100 km yesterday was as good as 130.
80 today, as good as 120.
My unexpected location has now also disrupted existing onwards plans, so I’d best refrain from any more grand predictions.
I will taking off down the mountainside tomorrow morning as far as Cowell and then the rest is a big, scary mystery.
DAY 76 - KIMBA SA
KIMBA SA
DAY 76
WUDINNA - KIMBA
114.35 km
Total Time: 08.15 – 17.15 (9h)
Time on Bike: 6h 20m 57s
Max. Speed: 50.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 18 km/h
Another day, another 110 km of tailwinds.
I’m beginning to get attached to this type of luxury.
And in reference to luxury, I must take a moment to thank some kind people I have met in the past few days.
Ted and Maree in Wirrulla not only fed me up with breakfast, but also sent me on my way with a tasty supply of road rations that I am still making use of.
Since arriving here in Kimba I have been adopted already by 2 sets of neighbours, so big thanks to Richard and Ruth for the toasted sandwiches and tea cuppas and likewise to Peter and Maxine for the dinner and conversation.
There are also breakfast appointments to keep in the morning so it is not over with just yet…..
I am pleased to have covered over 300 kilometres since leaving Ceduna on Tuesday morning and it has been killer tailwinds all the way.
Even so, today’s ride was one of the most challenging of the trip – only 110 kilometres but over particularly hilly terrain – 2 such hills were absolute monsters, possibly as long and steep as I have had to climb at any stage.
Taking on this terrain with headwind would just about register defeat.
I can safely say that I may not have made 60 kilometres going in the other direction.
Other uninvited guests today were a massive storm front, which dropped a healthy share of rain over the final 30 km and a pesky plethora of flies which were set to wear me down over some of the longer and steeper climbs.
Problem being, with the strong tailwind, I had to reach almost 25 km/h to get wind in my face and disperse the flies.
Anything under this and the flies were on song and in masses – particularly infuriating during a couple of 45 minute hill climbs at around 8 – 10 km/h.
With only a week until Winter Solstice, I am interested to understand the operational vagaries of these largely useless creatures.
I can only register relief that this is not the midst of summer when the insect masses would surely become unbearable…..
So it is onwards along the Eyre in the morrow.
Destination has been determined as Nuttbush Retreat, an accommodation stop 40 kilometres west of Port Augusta, which leaves around 115 km to ride tomorrow.
Depending on circumstances, it may be a 2-day stay, leaving re-arrival in PA for Sunday and a final completion of the 1200 km Eyre Peninsula circuit.
DAY 76
WUDINNA - KIMBA
114.35 km
Total Time: 08.15 – 17.15 (9h)
Time on Bike: 6h 20m 57s
Max. Speed: 50.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 18 km/h
Another day, another 110 km of tailwinds.
I’m beginning to get attached to this type of luxury.
And in reference to luxury, I must take a moment to thank some kind people I have met in the past few days.
Ted and Maree in Wirrulla not only fed me up with breakfast, but also sent me on my way with a tasty supply of road rations that I am still making use of.
Since arriving here in Kimba I have been adopted already by 2 sets of neighbours, so big thanks to Richard and Ruth for the toasted sandwiches and tea cuppas and likewise to Peter and Maxine for the dinner and conversation.
There are also breakfast appointments to keep in the morning so it is not over with just yet…..
I am pleased to have covered over 300 kilometres since leaving Ceduna on Tuesday morning and it has been killer tailwinds all the way.
Even so, today’s ride was one of the most challenging of the trip – only 110 kilometres but over particularly hilly terrain – 2 such hills were absolute monsters, possibly as long and steep as I have had to climb at any stage.
Taking on this terrain with headwind would just about register defeat.
I can safely say that I may not have made 60 kilometres going in the other direction.
Other uninvited guests today were a massive storm front, which dropped a healthy share of rain over the final 30 km and a pesky plethora of flies which were set to wear me down over some of the longer and steeper climbs.
Problem being, with the strong tailwind, I had to reach almost 25 km/h to get wind in my face and disperse the flies.
Anything under this and the flies were on song and in masses – particularly infuriating during a couple of 45 minute hill climbs at around 8 – 10 km/h.
With only a week until Winter Solstice, I am interested to understand the operational vagaries of these largely useless creatures.
I can only register relief that this is not the midst of summer when the insect masses would surely become unbearable…..
So it is onwards along the Eyre in the morrow.
Destination has been determined as Nuttbush Retreat, an accommodation stop 40 kilometres west of Port Augusta, which leaves around 115 km to ride tomorrow.
Depending on circumstances, it may be a 2-day stay, leaving re-arrival in PA for Sunday and a final completion of the 1200 km Eyre Peninsula circuit.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
DAY 75 - WUDINNA SA
WUDINNA SA
DAY 75
WIRRULLA - WUDINNA
132.92 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 17.30 (8h 30m)
Time on Bike: 6h 48m 12s
Max. Speed: 38.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.5 km/h
I intend to relinquish soothsaying and stay solid with prayer.
Everything that was supposed to happen today didn’t.
Instead, I have been gifted yet another 120 kilometres of tailwinds, so I guess I’ll take it.
Clear skies and 19ºC was the scene for the day.
The only thing set to piss me off then, was the hilly terrain.
This section of the Eyre Highway runs along the foot of the Gawler Ranges for 100 km or more.
These aren’t gigantic mountain passes at all, just merely a lot of extended climbing and a general lot of up and down,
And at day’s end, it wasn’t really so bad.
Slow in parts, but I handled and all in good time.
Whilst on the topic of the Eyre Highway, I am now on my 2nd day of transit along National Highway 1 and if there is a quieter and more sparsely trafficked National arterial road anywhere in the world. I would be interested to hear about it.
I seriously have this road to myself for anything up to 30 minutes at a time in parts.
A little busier this afternoon, but hardly the heavy, unforgiving barrage I may have expected.
This area is South Australia’s wheat belt, so every town has a big white silo as its centrepiece.
They are actually quite becoming in the Eyre Highway aesthetic and they sure give me a good idea of distances, as they can normally be seen from about 10 km out.
Wudinna is one of the bigger centres between Ceduna and Port Augusta amongst a family of small and sleepy wheat-belt hamlets along the way.
I am now a little under halfway back to PA.
It will still only be a one-nighter here and then onto Kimba tomorrow.
One more stop again beyond this and I should be home and hosed by the weekend.
DAY 75
WIRRULLA - WUDINNA
132.92 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 17.30 (8h 30m)
Time on Bike: 6h 48m 12s
Max. Speed: 38.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.5 km/h
I intend to relinquish soothsaying and stay solid with prayer.
Everything that was supposed to happen today didn’t.
Instead, I have been gifted yet another 120 kilometres of tailwinds, so I guess I’ll take it.
Clear skies and 19ºC was the scene for the day.
The only thing set to piss me off then, was the hilly terrain.
This section of the Eyre Highway runs along the foot of the Gawler Ranges for 100 km or more.
These aren’t gigantic mountain passes at all, just merely a lot of extended climbing and a general lot of up and down,
And at day’s end, it wasn’t really so bad.
Slow in parts, but I handled and all in good time.
Whilst on the topic of the Eyre Highway, I am now on my 2nd day of transit along National Highway 1 and if there is a quieter and more sparsely trafficked National arterial road anywhere in the world. I would be interested to hear about it.
I seriously have this road to myself for anything up to 30 minutes at a time in parts.
A little busier this afternoon, but hardly the heavy, unforgiving barrage I may have expected.
This area is South Australia’s wheat belt, so every town has a big white silo as its centrepiece.
They are actually quite becoming in the Eyre Highway aesthetic and they sure give me a good idea of distances, as they can normally be seen from about 10 km out.
Wudinna is one of the bigger centres between Ceduna and Port Augusta amongst a family of small and sleepy wheat-belt hamlets along the way.
I am now a little under halfway back to PA.
It will still only be a one-nighter here and then onto Kimba tomorrow.
One more stop again beyond this and I should be home and hosed by the weekend.
DAY 74 - WIRRULLA SA
WIRRULLA SA
DAY 74
CEDUNA - WIRRULLA
102.62 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 22m 02s
Max. Speed: 40.3 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.1 km/h
I pray and I receive.
My metaphorical prayer delivered yet another day of fantastic tailwinds.
I also believe “Wirrulla” to be an Aboriginal word for “the challenge of staying dry when you ride all day to be caught short 10 kilometres from your destination and it rains and you have to set up your tent in the rain and because there is nowhere else to try and stay dry, you spend most of the evening in your tent, except for the time when you go to the pub for dinner and there is a log fire there and it is very warm but sooner or later you have to go back into your tent and go to sleep”.
I have checked with some local Koori translators and this is an extremely close proximity of the word….
My next destination is likely to be the town of Wudinna, another Aboriginal word, which I believe has a very close meaning to “riding a bicycle through the rain for 120 kilometres and arriving not in the least bit dry”.
I will need to check this meaning more closely when I arrive but I have it on good knowledge…..
The overnight wind was scary.
I often felt it possible that I would awaken with just me and my sleeping bag and everything else halfway across the Nullabor….or in the sea…..or heading up to Alice Springs in a hurry.
So to hit the road this morning and realise that this mini-cyclone was actually in my favour was nothing besides a miracle.
Well to be accurate, the opening 25 kilometres were mainly cross, but the highway deviated in a southeast direction beyond this and the wind swung around to the northwest this afternoon – so get your compass out….
It was a howler as well, cold and gale-force. I would not have wanted to be heading across the Nullabor into this.
And that’s just it.
The wind in this part of the world literally shifts by the hour – and radically.
One day’s westerly is tomorrow’s nor-easterly.
And today’s nor-westerly is tomorrow’s southerly, I believe.
I have thereby formed the opinion that in time, Australia must become home to the world’s biggest wind farm.
Wind stations will line the entire length of the Great Australian Bight from Ceduna in the east to approximately Esperance in the west and this will effectively power the southern hemisphere and beyond until the end of time as we know it.
The technology is developed and demand will catch up rapidly the way things are going, so it is but a matter of time…..
I am hoping to bring next weather report and more Aboriginal translations direct from Wudinna.
DAY 74
CEDUNA - WIRRULLA
102.62 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 22m 02s
Max. Speed: 40.3 km/h
Av. Speed: 19.1 km/h
I pray and I receive.
My metaphorical prayer delivered yet another day of fantastic tailwinds.
I also believe “Wirrulla” to be an Aboriginal word for “the challenge of staying dry when you ride all day to be caught short 10 kilometres from your destination and it rains and you have to set up your tent in the rain and because there is nowhere else to try and stay dry, you spend most of the evening in your tent, except for the time when you go to the pub for dinner and there is a log fire there and it is very warm but sooner or later you have to go back into your tent and go to sleep”.
I have checked with some local Koori translators and this is an extremely close proximity of the word….
My next destination is likely to be the town of Wudinna, another Aboriginal word, which I believe has a very close meaning to “riding a bicycle through the rain for 120 kilometres and arriving not in the least bit dry”.
I will need to check this meaning more closely when I arrive but I have it on good knowledge…..
The overnight wind was scary.
I often felt it possible that I would awaken with just me and my sleeping bag and everything else halfway across the Nullabor….or in the sea…..or heading up to Alice Springs in a hurry.
So to hit the road this morning and realise that this mini-cyclone was actually in my favour was nothing besides a miracle.
Well to be accurate, the opening 25 kilometres were mainly cross, but the highway deviated in a southeast direction beyond this and the wind swung around to the northwest this afternoon – so get your compass out….
It was a howler as well, cold and gale-force. I would not have wanted to be heading across the Nullabor into this.
And that’s just it.
The wind in this part of the world literally shifts by the hour – and radically.
One day’s westerly is tomorrow’s nor-easterly.
And today’s nor-westerly is tomorrow’s southerly, I believe.
I have thereby formed the opinion that in time, Australia must become home to the world’s biggest wind farm.
Wind stations will line the entire length of the Great Australian Bight from Ceduna in the east to approximately Esperance in the west and this will effectively power the southern hemisphere and beyond until the end of time as we know it.
The technology is developed and demand will catch up rapidly the way things are going, so it is but a matter of time…..
I am hoping to bring next weather report and more Aboriginal translations direct from Wudinna.
DAY 73 - CEDUNA SA
CEDUNA SA
DAY 73
My mind is basically made.
It probably has been for a while, so here it is.
I will be heading back east from Ceduna along the Eyre Highway towards Port Augusta and will look forward to a reunion with the Flinders Ranges in around a week.
I believe that my current level of self-sufficiency on this bike is simply not enough to seriously contemplate taking on the Nullabor.
This is not an excuse by any means and even with the smell of it cooking in the next kitchen since landing in Ceduna, it is just not the best option at this time.
There are other worthy reasons I could nominate, but there is really no point in this space.
I will be back on the road tomorrow morning and expect to be in Port Augusta by next weekend.
The timing has metered itself well over this weekend – crap weather and a public holiday has determined my decision to hang about and I am better for the experience.
Despite the warnings, I have not found Ceduna to be the isolated and inhospitable outpost many would have had me believe.
I can see how it can easily be taken as such, but I have not approached this 3-day tenure with a pejorative outlook.
To the contrary, I have made a dedicated effort to meet the locals halfway and I believe the effort has been rewarded.
Staying where I have has helped infinitely, but to make such close connections with a Koori community is not an everyday experience by any stretches.
There are going to be inherent problems in these communities for many a time to come, but it need not be as bad as all that.
I generally find the white man’s attitude to the whole thing as 99% fear based and formed on a worse-case stereotype and is not necessarily like this at all.
In any given scenario, it is only going to help to sense trouble before it happens, so don’t go there.
But to fear another because of their skin colour, ethnicity, socio-economic status or because they are vagrant scabs on a street corner is the height of human ignorance in my opinion.
It does not immediately classify them as murderers, thieves, rapists, serial killers or anything else.
An individual may be any one of these at any time.
Someone making a nuisance on a street corner is more an example of a pathetic life story than anything else – more a harm to themselves than anyone else.
Not exactly an edifying sight in a tidy little seaside town, but that’s life I guess.
I could go on but I believe the point to be well made.
Next stop - the town of Wirulla, some 90 kilometres east and a healthy day’s ride tomorrow.
DAY 73
My mind is basically made.
It probably has been for a while, so here it is.
I will be heading back east from Ceduna along the Eyre Highway towards Port Augusta and will look forward to a reunion with the Flinders Ranges in around a week.
I believe that my current level of self-sufficiency on this bike is simply not enough to seriously contemplate taking on the Nullabor.
This is not an excuse by any means and even with the smell of it cooking in the next kitchen since landing in Ceduna, it is just not the best option at this time.
There are other worthy reasons I could nominate, but there is really no point in this space.
I will be back on the road tomorrow morning and expect to be in Port Augusta by next weekend.
The timing has metered itself well over this weekend – crap weather and a public holiday has determined my decision to hang about and I am better for the experience.
Despite the warnings, I have not found Ceduna to be the isolated and inhospitable outpost many would have had me believe.
I can see how it can easily be taken as such, but I have not approached this 3-day tenure with a pejorative outlook.
To the contrary, I have made a dedicated effort to meet the locals halfway and I believe the effort has been rewarded.
Staying where I have has helped infinitely, but to make such close connections with a Koori community is not an everyday experience by any stretches.
There are going to be inherent problems in these communities for many a time to come, but it need not be as bad as all that.
I generally find the white man’s attitude to the whole thing as 99% fear based and formed on a worse-case stereotype and is not necessarily like this at all.
In any given scenario, it is only going to help to sense trouble before it happens, so don’t go there.
But to fear another because of their skin colour, ethnicity, socio-economic status or because they are vagrant scabs on a street corner is the height of human ignorance in my opinion.
It does not immediately classify them as murderers, thieves, rapists, serial killers or anything else.
An individual may be any one of these at any time.
Someone making a nuisance on a street corner is more an example of a pathetic life story than anything else – more a harm to themselves than anyone else.
Not exactly an edifying sight in a tidy little seaside town, but that’s life I guess.
I could go on but I believe the point to be well made.
Next stop - the town of Wirulla, some 90 kilometres east and a healthy day’s ride tomorrow.
Sunday, June 8, 2008
DAY 72 - CEDUNA SA
CEDUNA SA
DAY 72
I’ll probably hang around in Ceduna playing King of the Kids until Tuesday.
A number of reasons exist for this.
My indecision as to which direction to head really has little to do with it, although the extra time will either help to sway one or else completely confuse me.
Firstly, the prevailing weather conditions are not conducive to anything but doing what I’m doing.
The wind is all over the place, changing in direction and strength almost by the hour and it has rained for most of today.
Wind is a big part of the gig over here in these parts, so you want to be at least half certain it is going your way.
Local storm activity isn’t helping, so it’s just as easy to stay put.
Another factor is that tomorrow is a National Holiday.
I have never understood why we are always imposed with a public holiday to celebrate the Queen’s Birthday in June, when the actual birthday is in April.
It is surely nothing more than a typical bloody Aussie excuse for another day off and moreover a "Long Weekend" - shooting a hole in national productivity and making life even more difficult for the self-employed and other free agents such as travelling bicycle warriors.
I’m enjoying my time here staying with the Kooris regardless.
King of the Kids is what I am.
It’s not a role I shirk at all – after all, the majority of people I have connected with on this particular trip have been in the over-50’s demographic.
The kids are full of juice but it is quite refreshing. Nothing against the older and wiser set here, just a nice change of breeze.
Between Grey Nomads and the youngsters, I can hold my own quite readily and as usual, it’s the ones in the middle that concern me the most.
Some of the elders are in need of some serious review.
The only responsible adults around here have approached me for either cigarettes, money or chop-chop.
And the town hobos are simply wasting good oxygen.
I’m really not convinced of exactly what their problem is, but they are successfully detracting from Ceduna’s approachability to all-comers as well as keeping the standing of their own people entrenched in the dark ages.
And this is not racist in the least.
It just the way it is and it's not just Ceduna’s problem.
In the kids, I can see hope and freedom of spirit but unless they can get themselves out of the cycle and develop their own lives positively, their dysfunctional elders are the benchmark.
Rich white people always strive to comfort ourselves by wanting to help – whether by throwing money towards the problem or doing good in some other way.
Unfortunately, the only truth that will hold sway in these situations is that help is only ever available to those that help themselves.
DAY 72
I’ll probably hang around in Ceduna playing King of the Kids until Tuesday.
A number of reasons exist for this.
My indecision as to which direction to head really has little to do with it, although the extra time will either help to sway one or else completely confuse me.
Firstly, the prevailing weather conditions are not conducive to anything but doing what I’m doing.
The wind is all over the place, changing in direction and strength almost by the hour and it has rained for most of today.
Wind is a big part of the gig over here in these parts, so you want to be at least half certain it is going your way.
Local storm activity isn’t helping, so it’s just as easy to stay put.
Another factor is that tomorrow is a National Holiday.
I have never understood why we are always imposed with a public holiday to celebrate the Queen’s Birthday in June, when the actual birthday is in April.
It is surely nothing more than a typical bloody Aussie excuse for another day off and moreover a "Long Weekend" - shooting a hole in national productivity and making life even more difficult for the self-employed and other free agents such as travelling bicycle warriors.
I’m enjoying my time here staying with the Kooris regardless.
King of the Kids is what I am.
It’s not a role I shirk at all – after all, the majority of people I have connected with on this particular trip have been in the over-50’s demographic.
The kids are full of juice but it is quite refreshing. Nothing against the older and wiser set here, just a nice change of breeze.
Between Grey Nomads and the youngsters, I can hold my own quite readily and as usual, it’s the ones in the middle that concern me the most.
Some of the elders are in need of some serious review.
The only responsible adults around here have approached me for either cigarettes, money or chop-chop.
And the town hobos are simply wasting good oxygen.
I’m really not convinced of exactly what their problem is, but they are successfully detracting from Ceduna’s approachability to all-comers as well as keeping the standing of their own people entrenched in the dark ages.
And this is not racist in the least.
It just the way it is and it's not just Ceduna’s problem.
In the kids, I can see hope and freedom of spirit but unless they can get themselves out of the cycle and develop their own lives positively, their dysfunctional elders are the benchmark.
Rich white people always strive to comfort ourselves by wanting to help – whether by throwing money towards the problem or doing good in some other way.
Unfortunately, the only truth that will hold sway in these situations is that help is only ever available to those that help themselves.
Saturday, June 7, 2008
DAY 71 - CEDUNA SA
CEDUNA SA
DAY 71
SMOKY BAY - CEDUNA
49.27 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 12.00 (3h)
Time on Bike: 2h 10m 35s
Max. Speed: 39.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 21.3 km/h
I covered the final 40 km into Ceduna in just over 2 hours.
It would have been even quicker without 20 km of shitting uphill pinch between here and Smoky Bay.
This type of pain is strangely transient however and invariably has a habit of easing when the new destination is reached.
Nothing was different today.
And yet I still have a decision to make.
The weather is playing games, just to raise the level of temptation - what do I really want to do?
Heart says one thing, head another with heart and head together a necessitating nothing less than ubiquitousness.
I can head west – onto the Nullabor Plain – the wind is blowing ferociously in this direction.
This is contrary to the natural order, which dictates prevailing conditions from the west.
The Nullabor is an arduous, largely waterless, and sparsely catered for 1200 km long-haul.
A minimum 2 days by car; a conservative minimum of 8 days by bike – more likely 10 – 12.
There is basically nothing like it anywhere in the world, except perhaps the Stuart Highway between Adelaide and Darwin.
It is also not to be underestimated on any level - either an ultimate challenge or ultimate stupidity, fitting comfortably into both schools of consideration in my opinion.
To be honest, my heart says maybe or not really – it’s a massive long-haul and I really have to be psychologically and practically prepared for this one.
If not now, it will always be there later and there are basically other things I would rather do.
My head says why not, I’ve come this far – it is so close and so tempting.
The turnoff is only 250 metres up the road and away I go.
My ego says – Wow! Think of the kudos I’ll get for this one, and it will look pretty bloody impressive on the blog – let’s face it……
I’m gonna give it one more day.
My feeling is the weather conditions are not going to alter.
I will leave here in 2 days and I’d better be prepared to take it on into a fairly mighty headwind.
It was so hard out near the airport this morning, it was scaring me.
Or else it’s the Nullabor.
Sacrifice the beauty and originality of the Flinders Ranges, Yorke Peninsula, the Murraylands and Limestone Highway east of Adelaide.
All for the sake of a once in a lifetime long-haul and all I will do 1900 kilometres later is get on a plane in Perth and fly back to Sydney.
I guess this leaves the ball in my proverbial court……
DAY 71
SMOKY BAY - CEDUNA
49.27 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 12.00 (3h)
Time on Bike: 2h 10m 35s
Max. Speed: 39.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 21.3 km/h
I covered the final 40 km into Ceduna in just over 2 hours.
It would have been even quicker without 20 km of shitting uphill pinch between here and Smoky Bay.
This type of pain is strangely transient however and invariably has a habit of easing when the new destination is reached.
Nothing was different today.
And yet I still have a decision to make.
The weather is playing games, just to raise the level of temptation - what do I really want to do?
Heart says one thing, head another with heart and head together a necessitating nothing less than ubiquitousness.
I can head west – onto the Nullabor Plain – the wind is blowing ferociously in this direction.
This is contrary to the natural order, which dictates prevailing conditions from the west.
The Nullabor is an arduous, largely waterless, and sparsely catered for 1200 km long-haul.
A minimum 2 days by car; a conservative minimum of 8 days by bike – more likely 10 – 12.
There is basically nothing like it anywhere in the world, except perhaps the Stuart Highway between Adelaide and Darwin.
It is also not to be underestimated on any level - either an ultimate challenge or ultimate stupidity, fitting comfortably into both schools of consideration in my opinion.
To be honest, my heart says maybe or not really – it’s a massive long-haul and I really have to be psychologically and practically prepared for this one.
If not now, it will always be there later and there are basically other things I would rather do.
My head says why not, I’ve come this far – it is so close and so tempting.
The turnoff is only 250 metres up the road and away I go.
My ego says – Wow! Think of the kudos I’ll get for this one, and it will look pretty bloody impressive on the blog – let’s face it……
I’m gonna give it one more day.
My feeling is the weather conditions are not going to alter.
I will leave here in 2 days and I’d better be prepared to take it on into a fairly mighty headwind.
It was so hard out near the airport this morning, it was scaring me.
Or else it’s the Nullabor.
Sacrifice the beauty and originality of the Flinders Ranges, Yorke Peninsula, the Murraylands and Limestone Highway east of Adelaide.
All for the sake of a once in a lifetime long-haul and all I will do 1900 kilometres later is get on a plane in Perth and fly back to Sydney.
I guess this leaves the ball in my proverbial court……
DAY 70 - SMOKY BAY SA
SMOKY BAY SA
DAY 70
STREAKY BAY – SMOKY BAY
80.97 km
Total Time: 09.10 – 14.10 (5h)
Time on Bike: 3h 56m 56s
Max. Speed: 40.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.5 km/h
Tomorrow will be my final day on the Eyre Peninsula with only 40 km into Ceduna.
The Nullabor Plain beckons so close and part of me is eternally tempted and fascinated about the prospect of a Nullabor crossing.
Part of me also knows that it will still be there next year and the year after that and probably even in 10 years time.
I can make up all kinds of justification for making a decision one way or another, but ultimately a decision is made and that’s it really.
I don’t need to regret anything at the end of the day.
Smoky Bay is a dusty little outpost with nothing in particular to keep me here, although once again I have enjoyed the sociability of utilising the local caravan park - the campfire this evening was particularly magnetic.
Fishing is the main game in town, as it has been in most of the townships along the way but here there is literally nothing else to do.
Venus Bay was similarly peaceful – there is however a difference between peace, quiet and boredom.
Boredom is surely the ugly cousin amongst these and I need not know about it, especially as I travel alone.
So pedal onwards I must, towards the greater horizon and wherever it may lead.
Next stop Ceduna – end of the old and beginning of the new.
DAY 70
STREAKY BAY – SMOKY BAY
80.97 km
Total Time: 09.10 – 14.10 (5h)
Time on Bike: 3h 56m 56s
Max. Speed: 40.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.5 km/h
Tomorrow will be my final day on the Eyre Peninsula with only 40 km into Ceduna.
The Nullabor Plain beckons so close and part of me is eternally tempted and fascinated about the prospect of a Nullabor crossing.
Part of me also knows that it will still be there next year and the year after that and probably even in 10 years time.
I can make up all kinds of justification for making a decision one way or another, but ultimately a decision is made and that’s it really.
I don’t need to regret anything at the end of the day.
Smoky Bay is a dusty little outpost with nothing in particular to keep me here, although once again I have enjoyed the sociability of utilising the local caravan park - the campfire this evening was particularly magnetic.
Fishing is the main game in town, as it has been in most of the townships along the way but here there is literally nothing else to do.
Venus Bay was similarly peaceful – there is however a difference between peace, quiet and boredom.
Boredom is surely the ugly cousin amongst these and I need not know about it, especially as I travel alone.
So pedal onwards I must, towards the greater horizon and wherever it may lead.
Next stop Ceduna – end of the old and beginning of the new.
Thursday, June 5, 2008
DAY 69 - STREAKY BAY SA
STREAKY BAY SA
DAY 69
Streaky Bay was the site of a world-record shark catch in the year of 1990.
It was ratified by international fishing bodies as a completely legal catch at the time and still stands in the Guinness Book of Records to this day.
The monster was a 5.2 metre, 1500 kilogram female Great White, caught on lightweight 24 kg line and then roped and gaffed over a 5-hour period by a young guy who was only 21-years-old at the time.
A replica of the beast is held inside the Streaky Bay Roadhouse, amongst other paraphernalia, including newspaper articles relating to the catch as well as several mounted sets of shark jaws.
In the early hours of Tuesday morning last, the roadhouse was broken into and 2 sets of Great White jaws were stolen from the display.
It is subject to crime investigation at present and also interest from a television crew, who were on deck with cameras and microphones at the roadhouse this morning.
The cameraman was already recognised to me as the self-same who stopped me on the Lincoln Highway last week for a roadside interview and some action takes.
I don’t think my extraordinary expose was quite prime time material but I have requested that any usable footage be forwarded onto my home address in the near future…..
A decline of the afternoon’s weather dictated some tent time and a brief siesta for just about the first time on the trip.
Good news on this front is that my precious tailwind should be maintained well into tomorrow for the ride to Smoky Bay.
An extra couple of days into Ceduna after this would be most appreciated, then a swing around to the West/Southwest for about a week to blow me along the Eyre Highway back to Port Augusta.
DAY 69
Streaky Bay was the site of a world-record shark catch in the year of 1990.
It was ratified by international fishing bodies as a completely legal catch at the time and still stands in the Guinness Book of Records to this day.
The monster was a 5.2 metre, 1500 kilogram female Great White, caught on lightweight 24 kg line and then roped and gaffed over a 5-hour period by a young guy who was only 21-years-old at the time.
A replica of the beast is held inside the Streaky Bay Roadhouse, amongst other paraphernalia, including newspaper articles relating to the catch as well as several mounted sets of shark jaws.
In the early hours of Tuesday morning last, the roadhouse was broken into and 2 sets of Great White jaws were stolen from the display.
It is subject to crime investigation at present and also interest from a television crew, who were on deck with cameras and microphones at the roadhouse this morning.
The cameraman was already recognised to me as the self-same who stopped me on the Lincoln Highway last week for a roadside interview and some action takes.
I don’t think my extraordinary expose was quite prime time material but I have requested that any usable footage be forwarded onto my home address in the near future…..
A decline of the afternoon’s weather dictated some tent time and a brief siesta for just about the first time on the trip.
Good news on this front is that my precious tailwind should be maintained well into tomorrow for the ride to Smoky Bay.
An extra couple of days into Ceduna after this would be most appreciated, then a swing around to the West/Southwest for about a week to blow me along the Eyre Highway back to Port Augusta.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
DAY 68 - STREAKY BAY SA
STREAKY BAY SA
DAY 68
VENUS BAY – STREAKY BAY
84.46 km
Total Time: 08.40 – 14.10 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 04m 48s
Max. Speed: 41.5 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.7 km/h
I need to create an ode to tailwind; however my creative juices are not necessarily working in this direction so I may need some help.
Or perhaps it should be set to music.
Whatever, it was a day to remember but certainly not for the scenery.
I will happily ride through saltbush and mallee scrub every day in exchange for the amount of tailwind I had today.
80 kilometres of sweet, sweet tailwind.
Well, 72 to tell absolute truth.
I wheeled into Port Kenny at 9.30 for a roughly fashioned breakfast at the local roadhouse and it was also the only opportunity to replenish water supplies for the day.
By the time I wheeled out half-an-hour later, a caning breeze had worked up out of the south and I wanted every last piece of it.
It was puffing as I saw off Venus Bay into the mirror, but by show time out of Port Kenny, it was booming.
And a pacy 72 kilometres it was – just over 3 hours at an average of about 24.
I only stopped once – it was just too good.
Towards the end, the unremarkable scenic approach into Streaky Bay belies what hides beyond - the Streaky township itself is just a beauty.
The bay is completely sheltered from outside elements making for the perfect camping frontage and also one of the more appealing in local legend.
I’ve taken pole position right down on the waterfront, so I’m not exactly rushed to move again for the next while…..
Dave and Bernadette are fellow travellers I crossed paths with nearly 3000 kilometres ago in the town of Forbes NSW.
So how it is possible to meet them and their dog and their school bus again by complete chance in remote Streaky Bay SA is one of life’s more uncanny little patterns.
It kind of made me realise how much territory has actually been covered in the past 10 weeks.
And still I pedal onwards.
For now, I will enjoy at least another day around here in Streaky.
It’s just too nice.
DAY 68
VENUS BAY – STREAKY BAY
84.46 km
Total Time: 08.40 – 14.10 (5h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 04m 48s
Max. Speed: 41.5 km/h
Av. Speed: 20.7 km/h
I need to create an ode to tailwind; however my creative juices are not necessarily working in this direction so I may need some help.
Or perhaps it should be set to music.
Whatever, it was a day to remember but certainly not for the scenery.
I will happily ride through saltbush and mallee scrub every day in exchange for the amount of tailwind I had today.
80 kilometres of sweet, sweet tailwind.
Well, 72 to tell absolute truth.
I wheeled into Port Kenny at 9.30 for a roughly fashioned breakfast at the local roadhouse and it was also the only opportunity to replenish water supplies for the day.
By the time I wheeled out half-an-hour later, a caning breeze had worked up out of the south and I wanted every last piece of it.
It was puffing as I saw off Venus Bay into the mirror, but by show time out of Port Kenny, it was booming.
And a pacy 72 kilometres it was – just over 3 hours at an average of about 24.
I only stopped once – it was just too good.
Towards the end, the unremarkable scenic approach into Streaky Bay belies what hides beyond - the Streaky township itself is just a beauty.
The bay is completely sheltered from outside elements making for the perfect camping frontage and also one of the more appealing in local legend.
I’ve taken pole position right down on the waterfront, so I’m not exactly rushed to move again for the next while…..
Dave and Bernadette are fellow travellers I crossed paths with nearly 3000 kilometres ago in the town of Forbes NSW.
So how it is possible to meet them and their dog and their school bus again by complete chance in remote Streaky Bay SA is one of life’s more uncanny little patterns.
It kind of made me realise how much territory has actually been covered in the past 10 weeks.
And still I pedal onwards.
For now, I will enjoy at least another day around here in Streaky.
It’s just too nice.
DAY 67 - VENUS BAY SA
VENUS BAY SA
DAY 67
ELLISTON – VENUS BAY
70.82 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 14.30 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 00m 36s
Max. Speed: 49.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.6 km/h
I had a feeling I would be bush camping tonight.
So this is what I’m doing.
There’s not much to do in Venus Bay – except fishing.
There’s not even a pub, which basically is unheard of.
Oh, there is a nature trail that leads from the minnow cliff tops along the bay and further around to the escarpment that faces directly onto the Great Southern Ocean.
Now this is impressive stuff.
Wild nature at its zenith - the western cliffs here are as extreme as the elements that have carved them.
Winds and oceans have pounded this coastline for eons and a day and the result is an art form.
Jagged cliffs and deep-set coves have been scraped from the greater land mass like a blunt chisel in cold butter.
A solid winter swell was working today but you wouldn’t find anyone out in it.
The waves here are inaccessible anyhow, save for a helicopter drop-in.
And there is also the small issue of big fish.
That’s big fish with big jaws and sharp teeth that are very much on their home turf in these waters.
Beyond shark watching, there is nothing much to keep me here in Venus Bay so will be riding north to Streaky Bay tomorrow.
DAY 67
ELLISTON – VENUS BAY
70.82 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 14.30 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 00m 36s
Max. Speed: 49.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.6 km/h
I had a feeling I would be bush camping tonight.
So this is what I’m doing.
There’s not much to do in Venus Bay – except fishing.
There’s not even a pub, which basically is unheard of.
Oh, there is a nature trail that leads from the minnow cliff tops along the bay and further around to the escarpment that faces directly onto the Great Southern Ocean.
Now this is impressive stuff.
Wild nature at its zenith - the western cliffs here are as extreme as the elements that have carved them.
Winds and oceans have pounded this coastline for eons and a day and the result is an art form.
Jagged cliffs and deep-set coves have been scraped from the greater land mass like a blunt chisel in cold butter.
A solid winter swell was working today but you wouldn’t find anyone out in it.
The waves here are inaccessible anyhow, save for a helicopter drop-in.
And there is also the small issue of big fish.
That’s big fish with big jaws and sharp teeth that are very much on their home turf in these waters.
Beyond shark watching, there is nothing much to keep me here in Venus Bay so will be riding north to Streaky Bay tomorrow.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
DAY 66 - ELLISTON SA
ELLISTON SA
DAY 66
COFFIN BAY – ELLISTON
151.69 km
Total Time: 08.30 – 17.30 (9h)
Time on Bike: 7h 57m 42s
Max. Speed: 51.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 19 km/h
A maximum day on the road.
The first one for a while as well, but I mind not in the least.
Elliston is only 240 km from Ceduna, but there are a few stops between here and there.
It should only be a one-nighter here and then on towards a tiny hamlet called Venus Bay.
I’m quite happy with the way I dealt with today.
It was the biggest day for nearly a month and given the short-hop bludgy days of late, I could be excused for turning readily into a pile of lime-green jelly.
Not so at all – I was gassing along for most of the day and did it all with a minimum of rest stops.
It was a good day to go for distance anyway.
The weather was cool and plenty of cloud cover for the most, as well as long stretches with not a whole lot to excite about.
The major distractions along the way are gravel roads that lead to wild coastal hideaways fronting the Great Southern Ocean – great for camping, fishing, surfing and getting eaten by White Pointers.
I will try my luck with the White Pointers in the morning as I am camped about 100 meters behind Elliston’s main beach.
It is no joke – people have been attacked in Elliston as recently as last year.
And it would indeed be your lucky day to survive a mauling from one of these monsters…..
DAY 66
COFFIN BAY – ELLISTON
151.69 km
Total Time: 08.30 – 17.30 (9h)
Time on Bike: 7h 57m 42s
Max. Speed: 51.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 19 km/h
A maximum day on the road.
The first one for a while as well, but I mind not in the least.
Elliston is only 240 km from Ceduna, but there are a few stops between here and there.
It should only be a one-nighter here and then on towards a tiny hamlet called Venus Bay.
I’m quite happy with the way I dealt with today.
It was the biggest day for nearly a month and given the short-hop bludgy days of late, I could be excused for turning readily into a pile of lime-green jelly.
Not so at all – I was gassing along for most of the day and did it all with a minimum of rest stops.
It was a good day to go for distance anyway.
The weather was cool and plenty of cloud cover for the most, as well as long stretches with not a whole lot to excite about.
The major distractions along the way are gravel roads that lead to wild coastal hideaways fronting the Great Southern Ocean – great for camping, fishing, surfing and getting eaten by White Pointers.
I will try my luck with the White Pointers in the morning as I am camped about 100 meters behind Elliston’s main beach.
It is no joke – people have been attacked in Elliston as recently as last year.
And it would indeed be your lucky day to survive a mauling from one of these monsters…..
DAY 65 - COFFIN BAY SA
COFFIN BAY SA
DAY 65
Another perfect day in Coffin Bay.
Perfect only, that’s all it was.
For those with romance in their hearts, it is difficult to imagine a more idyllic location.
It obviously helps if you have some kind of passion for fishing, but it may not be a requirement.
I have neither romance in my heart nor a particular fascination with fish, but have still managed quite a pleasant stay.
A Sunday morning sleep-in opened the account.
After finally getting into gear around 11 am, I completed the “Oyster Trail” circuit walk begun last evening.
The second half leads uphill behind the town and up to the district lookout with panoramas for a good share of 10 km in all directions.
Coffin Bay National Park and nearby Mount Dutton feature heavily in the picture, as does the bay itself.
The afternoon session involved yet another attempt to catch some dinner and yet another empty hand (or hook in this case).
By 6 pm it was just as easy to buy up a feed of fish and chips and another dozen oysters than waste any more time and bait hooking weed out on the water.
So this is what I did.
Of course, I sliced my fingers up again quite nicely whilst shelling the oysters.
The obvious consolation to my bleeding flesh however, was a bag of 14 for the price of 12, which at $7.50 the dozen is fairly remarkable value.
Eyre Peninsula oysters are about twice as big and three times more succulent than the Sydney Rock variety that one has the privilege of parting with $25 per dozen for back home.
You do have to shuck them yourself though, which is factored into the sale price.
Tomorrow morning is likely an early departure, as the longest day in a few weeks beckons.
Times have been quite straightforward of late with only 40 – 50 km short hops between towns, but the next stop is Elliston so I can look forward to around 140 kilometres on the road this time around.
DAY 65
Another perfect day in Coffin Bay.
Perfect only, that’s all it was.
For those with romance in their hearts, it is difficult to imagine a more idyllic location.
It obviously helps if you have some kind of passion for fishing, but it may not be a requirement.
I have neither romance in my heart nor a particular fascination with fish, but have still managed quite a pleasant stay.
A Sunday morning sleep-in opened the account.
After finally getting into gear around 11 am, I completed the “Oyster Trail” circuit walk begun last evening.
The second half leads uphill behind the town and up to the district lookout with panoramas for a good share of 10 km in all directions.
Coffin Bay National Park and nearby Mount Dutton feature heavily in the picture, as does the bay itself.
The afternoon session involved yet another attempt to catch some dinner and yet another empty hand (or hook in this case).
By 6 pm it was just as easy to buy up a feed of fish and chips and another dozen oysters than waste any more time and bait hooking weed out on the water.
So this is what I did.
Of course, I sliced my fingers up again quite nicely whilst shelling the oysters.
The obvious consolation to my bleeding flesh however, was a bag of 14 for the price of 12, which at $7.50 the dozen is fairly remarkable value.
Eyre Peninsula oysters are about twice as big and three times more succulent than the Sydney Rock variety that one has the privilege of parting with $25 per dozen for back home.
You do have to shuck them yourself though, which is factored into the sale price.
Tomorrow morning is likely an early departure, as the longest day in a few weeks beckons.
Times have been quite straightforward of late with only 40 – 50 km short hops between towns, but the next stop is Elliston so I can look forward to around 140 kilometres on the road this time around.
DAY 64 - COFFIN BAY SA
COFFIN BAY SA
DAY 64
PORT LINCOLN – COFFIN BAY
48.83 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 13.30 (3h 30m)
Time on Bike: 2h 45m 04s
Max. Speed: 69.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.7 km/h
Surprises continue as the Eyre Peninsula’s western coast awaits.
My tenure in Port Lincoln has come to an end and it is to my hosts I am greatly indebted – Raylene and Kingsley for having me stay in their home and also to Jeff for the recumbent kinship as well as tour guide duties yesterday.
I have now made way to the small but pristine settlement of Coffin Bay and from here will commence the northward journey towards Ceduna, including a series of pit stops along the western coastline of Eyre Peninsula.
The ride out of Port Lincoln this morning was accompanied by Jeff and Raylene, supposedly only as far as the Cummins turn off about 25 kilometres along the way.
First stop though, was the Winters Hill summit for some photo snaps and final look down at the town of Lincoln from Eyre Peninsula’s highest vantage point.
Just in nick of time too.
Barely having returned our cameras to their pouches, a massive blanket of low slung sea fog rolled in from the north, shrouding the town completely within a matter of minutes.
With the fog’s inclement, black tentacles making haste towards us on the mountain summit and the town beneath temporarily removed from the face of the planet, it was time to start making our own haste down the other side of the hill and onwards into the morning.
As to plan, my cycle buddies rode the interim distance before terminating their ride at the Cummins junction and we bade each other farewell.
I was in Coffin Bay and pitching shortly after 1.30 pm and no sooner was joined by those same 2 I had last seen at the Cummins junction just over an hour previously.
This apparent change of heart was but only the first of surprises for the afternoon, as it so happened that Raylene’s husband Kingsley had also made the journey to Coffin Bay separately by car.
Now Kingsley has something of a reputation as one of the world’s great Barbeque Kings and he was not in the mood to allow this to slip today.
My only responsibility at this point was to attend to shower details and get myself down to the town’s picnic area AQAP.
A Kingsley Barbeque by definition, leaves nothing to chance and it was indeed a comprehensive affair.
A full-blooded serving of steak and salad was on the board, to be washed down only with a buffet of wines, beers and softies.
Steak is not a regular on my priority list, but this was not an occasion to be at my picky best.
There was plenty going about to even leave some to spare - everything being topped by a compilation dishing of fruit, custard and cream with bevvies still flowing until the end.
By 4 pm, I was finally back on my own, full as a shoe and with the best share of 36 hours to explore Coffin Bay, consume more oysters and, if some overdue good fortune comes my way, jig some fresh local catch from the big, beautiful bay.
The designated “Oyster Trail” walkway kept me occupied for the period up to and beyond sundown, with some delicious photography subject along Coffin’s shorelines and my blog will certainly be the better for it.
DAY 64
PORT LINCOLN – COFFIN BAY
48.83 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 13.30 (3h 30m)
Time on Bike: 2h 45m 04s
Max. Speed: 69.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.7 km/h
Surprises continue as the Eyre Peninsula’s western coast awaits.
My tenure in Port Lincoln has come to an end and it is to my hosts I am greatly indebted – Raylene and Kingsley for having me stay in their home and also to Jeff for the recumbent kinship as well as tour guide duties yesterday.
I have now made way to the small but pristine settlement of Coffin Bay and from here will commence the northward journey towards Ceduna, including a series of pit stops along the western coastline of Eyre Peninsula.
The ride out of Port Lincoln this morning was accompanied by Jeff and Raylene, supposedly only as far as the Cummins turn off about 25 kilometres along the way.
First stop though, was the Winters Hill summit for some photo snaps and final look down at the town of Lincoln from Eyre Peninsula’s highest vantage point.
Just in nick of time too.
Barely having returned our cameras to their pouches, a massive blanket of low slung sea fog rolled in from the north, shrouding the town completely within a matter of minutes.
With the fog’s inclement, black tentacles making haste towards us on the mountain summit and the town beneath temporarily removed from the face of the planet, it was time to start making our own haste down the other side of the hill and onwards into the morning.
As to plan, my cycle buddies rode the interim distance before terminating their ride at the Cummins junction and we bade each other farewell.
I was in Coffin Bay and pitching shortly after 1.30 pm and no sooner was joined by those same 2 I had last seen at the Cummins junction just over an hour previously.
This apparent change of heart was but only the first of surprises for the afternoon, as it so happened that Raylene’s husband Kingsley had also made the journey to Coffin Bay separately by car.
Now Kingsley has something of a reputation as one of the world’s great Barbeque Kings and he was not in the mood to allow this to slip today.
My only responsibility at this point was to attend to shower details and get myself down to the town’s picnic area AQAP.
A Kingsley Barbeque by definition, leaves nothing to chance and it was indeed a comprehensive affair.
A full-blooded serving of steak and salad was on the board, to be washed down only with a buffet of wines, beers and softies.
Steak is not a regular on my priority list, but this was not an occasion to be at my picky best.
There was plenty going about to even leave some to spare - everything being topped by a compilation dishing of fruit, custard and cream with bevvies still flowing until the end.
By 4 pm, I was finally back on my own, full as a shoe and with the best share of 36 hours to explore Coffin Bay, consume more oysters and, if some overdue good fortune comes my way, jig some fresh local catch from the big, beautiful bay.
The designated “Oyster Trail” walkway kept me occupied for the period up to and beyond sundown, with some delicious photography subject along Coffin’s shorelines and my blog will certainly be the better for it.
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