PORTLAND VIC
DAY 123
MOUNT GAMBIER - PORTLAND
116.71 km
Total Time: 08.45 – 17.30 (8h 15m)
(including 30 min time difference SA – VIC)
Time on Bike: 7h 20m
Max. Speed: 56.5 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.9 km/h
There was some long, hard, stone cold, boring riding today.
Oh, and there was the small sideshow of a shitload of log trucks.
Everything that I could possibly dislike was laid on with abundance.
Only howling wind and pouring rain were missing.
It rates a podium finish on terms of least inspiring rides.
Truth be told, I did unbelievably well to get in as early as I did, especially losing 30 minutes with the time difference.
At one stage, 7 pm was not out of reckoning and I gave myself absolutely no chance of finishing before dark.
And it was so freaking cold.
Single figures today, no doubt and I don’t care a crap what the forecasts said.
I’ve got a tough skin and I was struggling.
My feet got cold at about 3 am this morning and stayed so until a hot shower after 6 pm this evening.
My hands just took turns with my feet – feet cold, hands warm/ hands cold, feet warm or all 4 totally fucking cold together.
I just gave up after a point when I realised there was no chance of getting any feeling back.
At least 50 kilometres of C192 between Mount Gambier and Portland travels through large tracts of plantation pine forest and I wish it didn’t.
Absolutely none of it was flat and more to the point, there was some seriously slow and punishing grind.
One pass in particular was layered in 4 different sections, dragging me over it at not much better than walking pace and plummeting the average speed as low as the temperature.
And not to mention the log trucks, although I believe I have already.
I was largely unimpressed.
With still 45 kilometres to cover at 2.30 pm, I started to get my night lights warmed up.
Each section of the ride was getting progressively slower and an arrival any time between 5 and 7 pm was all I could see.
As so often happens, with a little perseverance, a lot of effort and an accompanying bad mouth, things eventually improve and the final 30 kilometres into Portland was relatively acceptable.
I wouldn’t want to another repeat of today any time soon, however.
This weather is harsh and I’m taking a day about town tomorrow.
If things improve, then good.
If not, I’m onwards to Port Fairy on Thursday in the cold yet again.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
DAY 122 - MOUNT GAMBIER SA
MOUNT GAMBIER SA
DAY 122
This should be my final day in South Australia for now, although I’d best not sound as if I’m glad about it.
3 months and 4000 kilometres is an effort I’m proud of – second only to what how the overall statistics will look in around 2 weeks.
Today was a day of 2 halves, 4 quarters or even 3 thirds as well.
2 halves was how it eventuated for my liking, taking care of business this morning and allowing the afternoon for sightseeing.
Business was mostly about fixing the tyre blow out from yesterday.
Bad news is that 7000+ kilometres has taken its toll and worn the tyre completely through, hence the tube explosion yesterday.
Good news is I bought a new tyre – one with knobbly bits, which should see me through.
The sightseeing part of the day then, was quite a unique one.
Mount Gambier is located in a formerly volcanically active limestone basin.
Most of the volcanic activity took place around 4500 years ago, meaning the landforms it created are merely babes in arms by Australian standards.
What remains are several good sized craters, lakes and a most interesting formation called a sinkhole.
Easily the most renowned feature is the Blue Lake and the surrounding Crater Lakes.
The Umpherston Sinkhole is located a little east of town, but I was still able to get around and see the lot.
The Blue Lake is so named for good reason.
Unfortunately it is not so blue at the very moment but I was hardly about to tumble into a sinkhole of disappointment over it.
It is the wrong time of year apparently, as the lake really comes into its own blueness between November and March.
The rest of the time it supposedly looks “grey”, although its inherent blueness was still on show today, despite the winter and despite the cloudy gloom about.
I actually had a slightly better time around at the adjacent Crater Lake, which also enabled a steep walk up to the 1904 Centenary Tower and panoramic views of said lake and the city of Mount Gambier as its backdrop.
Dropping back down to town around 3 pm, I took a late afternoon stroll out to the Sinkhole.
The Sinkhole was named after a former wealthy local named Umpherston who owned the land between 1868 and 1900 and created a place for people to visit and enjoy.
Mr U passed on in 1900 and for 70 odd years, various owners and others allowed the Sinkhole to degenerate and it was only repossessed and taken responsibility for during the 1970’s.
Since then, various community projects have tiered some spectacular gardens within the sunken limestone pit that is now filled with native and imported flora, vines, mosses, walkways and lookouts.
So this has been my Mount Gambier experience.
I am scheduled to cross back into Victoria early tomorrow morning, as I make for the coastal settlement of Portland, probably for a pair of evenings.
DAY 122
This should be my final day in South Australia for now, although I’d best not sound as if I’m glad about it.
3 months and 4000 kilometres is an effort I’m proud of – second only to what how the overall statistics will look in around 2 weeks.
Today was a day of 2 halves, 4 quarters or even 3 thirds as well.
2 halves was how it eventuated for my liking, taking care of business this morning and allowing the afternoon for sightseeing.
Business was mostly about fixing the tyre blow out from yesterday.
Bad news is that 7000+ kilometres has taken its toll and worn the tyre completely through, hence the tube explosion yesterday.
Good news is I bought a new tyre – one with knobbly bits, which should see me through.
The sightseeing part of the day then, was quite a unique one.
Mount Gambier is located in a formerly volcanically active limestone basin.
Most of the volcanic activity took place around 4500 years ago, meaning the landforms it created are merely babes in arms by Australian standards.
What remains are several good sized craters, lakes and a most interesting formation called a sinkhole.
Easily the most renowned feature is the Blue Lake and the surrounding Crater Lakes.
The Umpherston Sinkhole is located a little east of town, but I was still able to get around and see the lot.
The Blue Lake is so named for good reason.
Unfortunately it is not so blue at the very moment but I was hardly about to tumble into a sinkhole of disappointment over it.
It is the wrong time of year apparently, as the lake really comes into its own blueness between November and March.
The rest of the time it supposedly looks “grey”, although its inherent blueness was still on show today, despite the winter and despite the cloudy gloom about.
I actually had a slightly better time around at the adjacent Crater Lake, which also enabled a steep walk up to the 1904 Centenary Tower and panoramic views of said lake and the city of Mount Gambier as its backdrop.
Dropping back down to town around 3 pm, I took a late afternoon stroll out to the Sinkhole.
The Sinkhole was named after a former wealthy local named Umpherston who owned the land between 1868 and 1900 and created a place for people to visit and enjoy.
Mr U passed on in 1900 and for 70 odd years, various owners and others allowed the Sinkhole to degenerate and it was only repossessed and taken responsibility for during the 1970’s.
Since then, various community projects have tiered some spectacular gardens within the sunken limestone pit that is now filled with native and imported flora, vines, mosses, walkways and lookouts.
So this has been my Mount Gambier experience.
I am scheduled to cross back into Victoria early tomorrow morning, as I make for the coastal settlement of Portland, probably for a pair of evenings.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
DAY 121 - MOUNT GAMBIER SA
MOUNT GAMBIER SA
DAY 121
BEACHPORT – MOUNT GAMBIER
94.05 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 17.30 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 49m 44s
Max. Speed: 42.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.1 km/h
Mount Gambier is my final stop in South Australia.
The Mount is one of SA’s bigger and better known towns with some quite special features that I will be exploring tomorrow for the benefit of a future posting.
It is also one of Australia’s coldest places right at the moment although I’d be reckoning it’s just the beginning of more to come over the final 2 weeks of the journey.
Wheeling out of Beachport at 10 am this morning, my mood was strong with the weather having cleared to my satisfaction and the prevailing wind a lame shadow of its own self from yesterday.
I would stop short of describing conditions as warm, but the going was still good.
Millicent is only 35 kilometres onward from Beachport but at least 5ºC colder.
15º in Beachport is 10º in Millicent and there was still 50 km to Mount Gambier.
A couple of royal drenchings between Millicent and the Mount as well as a dramatic increase in the hilliness of the terrain made for some unhappy riding this afternoon.
I spent most of it either wet or cold and mainly both.
Oh, and there was the small issue of one of my trailer tyres blowing out 10 km from Mount Gambier.
Rather than commit to a running repair by the side of a fairly dangerous section of highway, the decision to push through in cold, wet and darkening conditions was absolutely the right one.
It was still cold and wet and almost dark by the time I found a camp this evening and I can confirm that if it weren’t for that wicked, freakish day about 3 weeks ago between Orroroo and Jamestown, then today would be in pole position by some distance.
And unfortunately, it just isn’t likely to improve from here, so I will be investing some warming type devices at some stage tomorrow.
This and a thorough look around the Mount should keep me occupied for the duration.
DAY 121
BEACHPORT – MOUNT GAMBIER
94.05 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 17.30 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 49m 44s
Max. Speed: 42.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.1 km/h
Mount Gambier is my final stop in South Australia.
The Mount is one of SA’s bigger and better known towns with some quite special features that I will be exploring tomorrow for the benefit of a future posting.
It is also one of Australia’s coldest places right at the moment although I’d be reckoning it’s just the beginning of more to come over the final 2 weeks of the journey.
Wheeling out of Beachport at 10 am this morning, my mood was strong with the weather having cleared to my satisfaction and the prevailing wind a lame shadow of its own self from yesterday.
I would stop short of describing conditions as warm, but the going was still good.
Millicent is only 35 kilometres onward from Beachport but at least 5ºC colder.
15º in Beachport is 10º in Millicent and there was still 50 km to Mount Gambier.
A couple of royal drenchings between Millicent and the Mount as well as a dramatic increase in the hilliness of the terrain made for some unhappy riding this afternoon.
I spent most of it either wet or cold and mainly both.
Oh, and there was the small issue of one of my trailer tyres blowing out 10 km from Mount Gambier.
Rather than commit to a running repair by the side of a fairly dangerous section of highway, the decision to push through in cold, wet and darkening conditions was absolutely the right one.
It was still cold and wet and almost dark by the time I found a camp this evening and I can confirm that if it weren’t for that wicked, freakish day about 3 weeks ago between Orroroo and Jamestown, then today would be in pole position by some distance.
And unfortunately, it just isn’t likely to improve from here, so I will be investing some warming type devices at some stage tomorrow.
This and a thorough look around the Mount should keep me occupied for the duration.
DAY 120 - BEACHPORT SA
BEACHPORT SA
DAY 120
A whale of a day around Beachport and in spite of all the rubbish weather.
Beachport’s permanent population is only 400 (not including the crayfish fleet) and after meeting around a quarter of them at the pub last evening, all that was left for today was something of a guided tour as well some attention to important logistics.
With hosts Shannon and Julie leading the way, there was not much to concern about.
A nice change to the norm has been 3 meals a day of a wholesome variety as well as the comfort of a warm bed.
My feet have been, well…..freezing of late, to be blunt.
Such have been the low night time mercury readings.
My +3 sleeping sack has been struggling just some and no amount of sock layering can improve a thing.
Once your feet are cold, that’s the way they tend to stay.
With only 2 weeks left and some of Australia’s southernmost areas immediately in front of me, I cannot expect any mercy from the winter depths of July and early August.
Today was no day to be riding anywhere anyway – this much I know and it was never going to be.
Instead, the fun of the day was something of a family 4-wheel-driving adventure around the sand hills between Beachport and Lake George.
Not exactly your everyday cycling expedition, but a spot of tobogganing and Frisbee frolic was more the order.
Myself, my hosts and their 2 young daughters took on the razorbacks with couple of sand sleds and a candle, with some Frisbee-ing in between for good measure.
I can’t possibly see the harm in breaking things up like this and there may even be new skills learned, such as the art of straight-line tobogganing.
Any fool can sideways lose before wiping out at speed towards the bottom, as I found.
My subsequent bravado was quickly nullified by a 6-year-old girl who plainly could do the thing.
It is rather too embarrassing to watch and learn in these conditions, so I instead settled on gentle on-the-job guidance from the child’s father.
Before long, I was charging down in a straight line with not a mouth of sand to be had.
And how good it felt when the kid totalled on the very next run…..
Final stop of the day was the Woakwine Cutting - a massive gorge that was dug out of the limestone by local farmers in 1957 as a means of draining their swamp into Lake George.
The humble machinery they used is still locked up on site as a display piece for the locals and visitors who pass on by.
As interesting as the cutting was, it was even more interesting to see how many bounces a rock will actually take to hit the bottom......
On return to base, a pre-dinner winter swim was on in the family pool and whilst this may chill to the bone at the very thought, it is nice to know of it as an indoor, heated affair.
31ºC in fact and some intense spa jet action was as good for massage value as any $50-an-hour therapist.
After 6000 kilometres, I reckon it’s well deserved and as I look forward towards a certain destination closer to Melbourne, it may not even be the last.
First things first though and as my Beachport stay concludes, it is onwards to the city of Mount Gambier tomorrow.
DAY 120
A whale of a day around Beachport and in spite of all the rubbish weather.
Beachport’s permanent population is only 400 (not including the crayfish fleet) and after meeting around a quarter of them at the pub last evening, all that was left for today was something of a guided tour as well some attention to important logistics.
With hosts Shannon and Julie leading the way, there was not much to concern about.
A nice change to the norm has been 3 meals a day of a wholesome variety as well as the comfort of a warm bed.
My feet have been, well…..freezing of late, to be blunt.
Such have been the low night time mercury readings.
My +3 sleeping sack has been struggling just some and no amount of sock layering can improve a thing.
Once your feet are cold, that’s the way they tend to stay.
With only 2 weeks left and some of Australia’s southernmost areas immediately in front of me, I cannot expect any mercy from the winter depths of July and early August.
Today was no day to be riding anywhere anyway – this much I know and it was never going to be.
Instead, the fun of the day was something of a family 4-wheel-driving adventure around the sand hills between Beachport and Lake George.
Not exactly your everyday cycling expedition, but a spot of tobogganing and Frisbee frolic was more the order.
Myself, my hosts and their 2 young daughters took on the razorbacks with couple of sand sleds and a candle, with some Frisbee-ing in between for good measure.
I can’t possibly see the harm in breaking things up like this and there may even be new skills learned, such as the art of straight-line tobogganing.
Any fool can sideways lose before wiping out at speed towards the bottom, as I found.
My subsequent bravado was quickly nullified by a 6-year-old girl who plainly could do the thing.
It is rather too embarrassing to watch and learn in these conditions, so I instead settled on gentle on-the-job guidance from the child’s father.
Before long, I was charging down in a straight line with not a mouth of sand to be had.
And how good it felt when the kid totalled on the very next run…..
Final stop of the day was the Woakwine Cutting - a massive gorge that was dug out of the limestone by local farmers in 1957 as a means of draining their swamp into Lake George.
The humble machinery they used is still locked up on site as a display piece for the locals and visitors who pass on by.
As interesting as the cutting was, it was even more interesting to see how many bounces a rock will actually take to hit the bottom......
On return to base, a pre-dinner winter swim was on in the family pool and whilst this may chill to the bone at the very thought, it is nice to know of it as an indoor, heated affair.
31ºC in fact and some intense spa jet action was as good for massage value as any $50-an-hour therapist.
After 6000 kilometres, I reckon it’s well deserved and as I look forward towards a certain destination closer to Melbourne, it may not even be the last.
First things first though and as my Beachport stay concludes, it is onwards to the city of Mount Gambier tomorrow.
Friday, July 25, 2008
DAY 119 - BEACHPORT SA
BEACHPORT SA
DAY 119
ROBE - BEACHPORT
61.79 km
Total Time: 09.15 – 15.00 (5h 45m)
Time on Bike: 3h 18m 29s
Max. Speed: 32.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.7 km/h
Timing is everything and it is the right time to be in Beachport, if only for reuniting with my hosts for the weekend, Shannon and Julie.
We originally met by chance at West Beach in Adelaide around the beginning of May and a standing invitation to visit has existed if ever I should arrive.
Well, my path has finally led me here and all things come together in these circumstances.
I addressed the local school children on arrival – all 30 of them – and they collectively had it that I may have ridden anywhere between 100 and 100 000 kilometres on the current journey.
100 000 is certainly an impressive feat and whilst laying claim to this was tempting, some ooh’s and ahh’s quietly circulated the small room when the 6000 figure was finally nominated.
I’m not sure many of these children could grasp how much 6000 kilometres actually is – I probably couldn’t have grasped it 5 months ago myself – but the odometer does not exaggerate.
Still, it is not quite a cause for major celebration right now.
There is a distance yet to be travelled and I do intend to complete it safely and with my being intact.
Whatever the final figure is at this point will stand.
Until then, the journey must roll on.
The hospitality of my current hosts will extend now to Sunday.
Mount Gambier waits beyond and the final leg of the journey into Melbourne will unfold.
I cannot create an exacting time frame but 2 weeks is probably fair play.
The time is right to wind this trip to an end and the prospect of a finishing time is exciting.
With no questions left to be answered this time around, new opportunities lie ahead in bounds.
DAY 119
ROBE - BEACHPORT
61.79 km
Total Time: 09.15 – 15.00 (5h 45m)
Time on Bike: 3h 18m 29s
Max. Speed: 32.2 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.7 km/h
Timing is everything and it is the right time to be in Beachport, if only for reuniting with my hosts for the weekend, Shannon and Julie.
We originally met by chance at West Beach in Adelaide around the beginning of May and a standing invitation to visit has existed if ever I should arrive.
Well, my path has finally led me here and all things come together in these circumstances.
I addressed the local school children on arrival – all 30 of them – and they collectively had it that I may have ridden anywhere between 100 and 100 000 kilometres on the current journey.
100 000 is certainly an impressive feat and whilst laying claim to this was tempting, some ooh’s and ahh’s quietly circulated the small room when the 6000 figure was finally nominated.
I’m not sure many of these children could grasp how much 6000 kilometres actually is – I probably couldn’t have grasped it 5 months ago myself – but the odometer does not exaggerate.
Still, it is not quite a cause for major celebration right now.
There is a distance yet to be travelled and I do intend to complete it safely and with my being intact.
Whatever the final figure is at this point will stand.
Until then, the journey must roll on.
The hospitality of my current hosts will extend now to Sunday.
Mount Gambier waits beyond and the final leg of the journey into Melbourne will unfold.
I cannot create an exacting time frame but 2 weeks is probably fair play.
The time is right to wind this trip to an end and the prospect of a finishing time is exciting.
With no questions left to be answered this time around, new opportunities lie ahead in bounds.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
DAY 118 - ROBE SA
ROBE SA
DAY 118
KINGSTON S-E - ROBE
49.19 km
Total Time: 09.40 – 13.40 (4h)
Time on Bike: 2h 38m 23s
Max. Speed: 38.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.6 km/h
Another overnighter, this time in the town of Robe – a plush and rather spread out holiday settlement on the Southeast coast.
There’s not too much low-brow in Robe, although the local Foodland supermarket does plays its role for the common man.
I guess that’s why I bought dinner here.
Robe is generally a meticulously neat and well-kempt little hamlet as well as being absolutely full of a very attractive range of tourist accommodation.
Heck, even the Caravan Park I’m camped in is Heritage listed.
It runs the gamut of mid-to upper range B&B’s to niche seaside motels (only with heated pools and Jacuzzis on this occasion) to Backpacker and camping facilities (which do indeed happen to be heritage listed).
The town itself sits handsomely in picture perfect Guichen Bay, landmarked on the western extremity by Cape Dombey with its lighthouse and historic Obelisk.
With all this said, I do believe I’ve done well to be actually staying here for under $20, ‘cos it is all quite damn nice.
The town’s Royal Circus has possibly borrowed its name from elsewhere, but does feature in a fairly impressive heritage walk which is as close to what would be known as the Old Town in other parts of the world.
Said walk is apparently a self-guided affair, which suits me just fine and I am interested enough to have a small wander through before rolling on towards Beachport tomorrow morning.
As photogenic as Robe is and as keen as a photographer as I claim to be, the two have come together quite amicably so far and I am suggesting this blog will be the better for it.
For this reason, I’m not done yet and considering it is only a one-nighter, I am hoping for some fine conditions in the new day.
This weekend is a booking in the next town of Beachport with another set of hosts, Shannon and Julie Moran and I believe some good times will be had.
Until then.
DAY 118
KINGSTON S-E - ROBE
49.19 km
Total Time: 09.40 – 13.40 (4h)
Time on Bike: 2h 38m 23s
Max. Speed: 38.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.6 km/h
Another overnighter, this time in the town of Robe – a plush and rather spread out holiday settlement on the Southeast coast.
There’s not too much low-brow in Robe, although the local Foodland supermarket does plays its role for the common man.
I guess that’s why I bought dinner here.
Robe is generally a meticulously neat and well-kempt little hamlet as well as being absolutely full of a very attractive range of tourist accommodation.
Heck, even the Caravan Park I’m camped in is Heritage listed.
It runs the gamut of mid-to upper range B&B’s to niche seaside motels (only with heated pools and Jacuzzis on this occasion) to Backpacker and camping facilities (which do indeed happen to be heritage listed).
The town itself sits handsomely in picture perfect Guichen Bay, landmarked on the western extremity by Cape Dombey with its lighthouse and historic Obelisk.
With all this said, I do believe I’ve done well to be actually staying here for under $20, ‘cos it is all quite damn nice.
The town’s Royal Circus has possibly borrowed its name from elsewhere, but does feature in a fairly impressive heritage walk which is as close to what would be known as the Old Town in other parts of the world.
Said walk is apparently a self-guided affair, which suits me just fine and I am interested enough to have a small wander through before rolling on towards Beachport tomorrow morning.
As photogenic as Robe is and as keen as a photographer as I claim to be, the two have come together quite amicably so far and I am suggesting this blog will be the better for it.
For this reason, I’m not done yet and considering it is only a one-nighter, I am hoping for some fine conditions in the new day.
This weekend is a booking in the next town of Beachport with another set of hosts, Shannon and Julie Moran and I believe some good times will be had.
Until then.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
DAY 117 - KINGSTON S-E SA
KINGSTON S-E SA
DAY 117
SALT CREEK – KINGSTON S-E
98.84 km
Total Time: 08.35 – 15.35 (7h)
Time on Bike: 5h 20m 30s
Max. Speed: 31.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.5 km/h
Kingston South East.
The South East moniker is to distinguish it from another South Australian Kingston somewhere in the north.
Kingston represents both the bottom of the Coorong and the top of what is known as the Limestone Coast.
It is the main holiday and service centre of the sweeping Lacapede Bay and is also a paid up member of Australia’s Big Club.
The Big Club is one of Australia’s more shameful and embarrassing contributions to tourism, whereby numerous towns around the place have something big that is supposed to put it of the map and get people to go and visit.
Some more infamous examples are Big Banana (Coffs Harbour, NSW), Big Pineapple (Palmwoods, Queensland), Big Strawberry (Yarroweyah, Victoria), Big Merino (Goulburn, NSW).
Etcetera.
Kingston’s rather lame contribution to this rather lame culture is a massive 5 metre high fibreglass lobster that greets everybody on arrival through the northern end of town.
It is most certainly big enough and ugly enough to scar small children throughout their childhood years and beyond.
And I most certainly won’t be recommending anyone to visit because of it.
Eating lobster on the other hand is certifiably one of life’s more indulgent experiences and one of the culinary world’s more extravagant delicacies.
There is nothing quite like blowing $50 on a fresh one and sitting there demolishing the beast until no more meat can possibly be located.
Juice and other bits should ideally run down to the elbow region at meals’ end and the sucking technique most suitably applied to each section of claw, no matter how fiddly and difficult to access.
The lobster sadly has a reputation as an extremely fatty item of consumption and would blow most cholesterol budgets to the Moon and back.
The good things in life are rarely good for you they say.
Bah Humbug, I say and if one is give oneself heart disease, then this sure beats the idea of smoking oneself into the grave.
The only issue is always my daily $40 bean count, or else……
Today was the best weather (probably anywhere) for about a month – beautiful bright sun, light northerly breeze and not even as cold as it might have been.
Keep it up, I say once again and more of the same from here on in.
DAY 117
SALT CREEK – KINGSTON S-E
98.84 km
Total Time: 08.35 – 15.35 (7h)
Time on Bike: 5h 20m 30s
Max. Speed: 31.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.5 km/h
Kingston South East.
The South East moniker is to distinguish it from another South Australian Kingston somewhere in the north.
Kingston represents both the bottom of the Coorong and the top of what is known as the Limestone Coast.
It is the main holiday and service centre of the sweeping Lacapede Bay and is also a paid up member of Australia’s Big Club.
The Big Club is one of Australia’s more shameful and embarrassing contributions to tourism, whereby numerous towns around the place have something big that is supposed to put it of the map and get people to go and visit.
Some more infamous examples are Big Banana (Coffs Harbour, NSW), Big Pineapple (Palmwoods, Queensland), Big Strawberry (Yarroweyah, Victoria), Big Merino (Goulburn, NSW).
Etcetera.
Kingston’s rather lame contribution to this rather lame culture is a massive 5 metre high fibreglass lobster that greets everybody on arrival through the northern end of town.
It is most certainly big enough and ugly enough to scar small children throughout their childhood years and beyond.
And I most certainly won’t be recommending anyone to visit because of it.
Eating lobster on the other hand is certifiably one of life’s more indulgent experiences and one of the culinary world’s more extravagant delicacies.
There is nothing quite like blowing $50 on a fresh one and sitting there demolishing the beast until no more meat can possibly be located.
Juice and other bits should ideally run down to the elbow region at meals’ end and the sucking technique most suitably applied to each section of claw, no matter how fiddly and difficult to access.
The lobster sadly has a reputation as an extremely fatty item of consumption and would blow most cholesterol budgets to the Moon and back.
The good things in life are rarely good for you they say.
Bah Humbug, I say and if one is give oneself heart disease, then this sure beats the idea of smoking oneself into the grave.
The only issue is always my daily $40 bean count, or else……
Today was the best weather (probably anywhere) for about a month – beautiful bright sun, light northerly breeze and not even as cold as it might have been.
Keep it up, I say once again and more of the same from here on in.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
DAY 116 - SALT CREEK SA
SALT CREEK SA
DAY 116
MENINGIE – SALT CREEK
66.31 km
Total Time: 10.10 – 15.30 (5h 20m)
Time on Bike: 3h 57m 08s
Max. Speed: 38.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.8 km/h
Salt Creek is about halfway along the Coorong between Meningie and Kingston S-E.
This kind of leaves me in the middle of somewhere or nowhere at once.
For tonight, it is the Gemini Downs Camp, which has lent me a strip of grass in the wide open, untouched expanse of the Coorong.
And untouched it is, in the real sense.
If something is untouched, I am thinking this means that humans generally stay well away.
I’m not sure we can be trusted anymore.
The Coorong therefore must rate as one of Australia’s continuously untouched strips of wilderness.
The narrow mud flats and wetlands that are the Coorong lie between the wilderworld of the Southern Ocean on one side and the National B1 Princes Highway on the other.
It is a 60 kilometre channel of fragile ecosystem that outdates human existence by eons and will hopefully outlast it by about the same.
For its own sake, it is not quite physically spectacular enough to be regarded as a monster tourist hoop.
The nearby settlements are Spartan and don’t support such heavy traffic anyway, and this is the way it should stay.
Most just pass on by but to stop is fair reward with guaranteed encounters of the natural kind.
For myself, it leaves a 90 kilometre coastal run tomorrow, towards the southeast holiday coast of South Australia which will occupy me for the next few days.
The weather has reinvented itself remarkably and this afternoon was the finest display of sunny clear skies for about a month.
It goes to say that I desire for it to hold in this manner, at least for tomorrow and the exposed length of southern highway to Kingston.
DAY 116
MENINGIE – SALT CREEK
66.31 km
Total Time: 10.10 – 15.30 (5h 20m)
Time on Bike: 3h 57m 08s
Max. Speed: 38.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.8 km/h
Salt Creek is about halfway along the Coorong between Meningie and Kingston S-E.
This kind of leaves me in the middle of somewhere or nowhere at once.
For tonight, it is the Gemini Downs Camp, which has lent me a strip of grass in the wide open, untouched expanse of the Coorong.
And untouched it is, in the real sense.
If something is untouched, I am thinking this means that humans generally stay well away.
I’m not sure we can be trusted anymore.
The Coorong therefore must rate as one of Australia’s continuously untouched strips of wilderness.
The narrow mud flats and wetlands that are the Coorong lie between the wilderworld of the Southern Ocean on one side and the National B1 Princes Highway on the other.
It is a 60 kilometre channel of fragile ecosystem that outdates human existence by eons and will hopefully outlast it by about the same.
For its own sake, it is not quite physically spectacular enough to be regarded as a monster tourist hoop.
The nearby settlements are Spartan and don’t support such heavy traffic anyway, and this is the way it should stay.
Most just pass on by but to stop is fair reward with guaranteed encounters of the natural kind.
For myself, it leaves a 90 kilometre coastal run tomorrow, towards the southeast holiday coast of South Australia which will occupy me for the next few days.
The weather has reinvented itself remarkably and this afternoon was the finest display of sunny clear skies for about a month.
It goes to say that I desire for it to hold in this manner, at least for tomorrow and the exposed length of southern highway to Kingston.
Monday, July 21, 2008
DAY 115 - MENINGIE SA
MENINGIE SA
DAY 115
WELLINGTON - MENINGIE
51.41 km
Total Time: 08.30 – 13.00 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike: 3h 44m 29s
Max. Speed: 42.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 13.7 km/h
Following the events of yesterday, I should be thankful to be anywhere, like alive for instance.
However, I am just a little disappointed to only as far as Meningie - disappointed mainly because the weather conditions determined the day’s outcome.
4 hours for just over 40 kilometres is a paltry return but I guess that’s what you get for riding into a stonker of a headwind.
Plan A in fact was originally to be where I am.
However after my brush with the afterlife yesterday, an innate determination to push beyond my fears probably expressed itself a little too ambitiously.
I worked up a Plan B overnight, which had me trundling halfway along the Coorong today – a 100 kilometre run which would have wrapped up a camp near Salt Creek for this evening.
It needs to be understood that the Coorong is a fairly long and lonely 190 kilometre haul between Wellington and Kingston S-E.
Beyond Meningie there isn’t much in the way of civilisation for 150 km.
A small camp and general store are located within 5 kilometres of the Salt Creek settlement, about halfway along and this is what I was going for.
Weather conditions – the wind in particular – made for hard, hard going this morning and it was always going to be a struggle to finish before nightfall.
And apart from this, there seemed no further point in battling the elements any further.
Meningie is quite a well stocked settlement so this was the obvious choice.
By all accounts then, it could be argued that I’m a day behind schedule but considering I have no schedule, this would hardly stand up in court.
So it is.
The Coorong will commence in the morning for real and I will make Salt Creek by tomorrow evening.
DAY 115
WELLINGTON - MENINGIE
51.41 km
Total Time: 08.30 – 13.00 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike: 3h 44m 29s
Max. Speed: 42.9 km/h
Av. Speed: 13.7 km/h
Following the events of yesterday, I should be thankful to be anywhere, like alive for instance.
However, I am just a little disappointed to only as far as Meningie - disappointed mainly because the weather conditions determined the day’s outcome.
4 hours for just over 40 kilometres is a paltry return but I guess that’s what you get for riding into a stonker of a headwind.
Plan A in fact was originally to be where I am.
However after my brush with the afterlife yesterday, an innate determination to push beyond my fears probably expressed itself a little too ambitiously.
I worked up a Plan B overnight, which had me trundling halfway along the Coorong today – a 100 kilometre run which would have wrapped up a camp near Salt Creek for this evening.
It needs to be understood that the Coorong is a fairly long and lonely 190 kilometre haul between Wellington and Kingston S-E.
Beyond Meningie there isn’t much in the way of civilisation for 150 km.
A small camp and general store are located within 5 kilometres of the Salt Creek settlement, about halfway along and this is what I was going for.
Weather conditions – the wind in particular – made for hard, hard going this morning and it was always going to be a struggle to finish before nightfall.
And apart from this, there seemed no further point in battling the elements any further.
Meningie is quite a well stocked settlement so this was the obvious choice.
By all accounts then, it could be argued that I’m a day behind schedule but considering I have no schedule, this would hardly stand up in court.
So it is.
The Coorong will commence in the morning for real and I will make Salt Creek by tomorrow evening.
DAY 114 - WELLINGTON SA
WELLINGTON SA
DAY 114
MANNUM - WELLINGTON
70.26 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 14.15 (4h 45m)
Time on Bike: 3h 51m 19s
Max. Speed: 57 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.2 km/h
Somebody tried to run me over today.
I don’t really want to talk about it very much because I haven’t been as upset and pissed off about something in some time.
If the person had have succeeded, I would not be here anymore due to the size of the vehicle involved.
It is as simple as this.
What has upset me most is that there is obviously a rare but certain kind of mercenary fuckwit that shares the planet with everybody else and no matter how cautious and aware I may pride myself on being, there is nothing to be done if worst comes to worst.
No doubt this awareness saved my life today.
I wish I could make it sound less dramatic than it is.
In fact I am actually having second thoughts as whether to push through to Melbourne now.
It is impossible to tell when luck is going to run out and yet I am also not one to respond to fear.
I am hoping more than anything that in a running total of 5500 kilometres to date, this incident was a one-off so I should take heed and pedal on.
If this is the decision, I now make for the town of Meningie tomorrow before taking on a 150 km stretch of The Coorong come Tuesday.
DAY 114
MANNUM - WELLINGTON
70.26 km
Total Time: 09.30 – 14.15 (4h 45m)
Time on Bike: 3h 51m 19s
Max. Speed: 57 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.2 km/h
Somebody tried to run me over today.
I don’t really want to talk about it very much because I haven’t been as upset and pissed off about something in some time.
If the person had have succeeded, I would not be here anymore due to the size of the vehicle involved.
It is as simple as this.
What has upset me most is that there is obviously a rare but certain kind of mercenary fuckwit that shares the planet with everybody else and no matter how cautious and aware I may pride myself on being, there is nothing to be done if worst comes to worst.
No doubt this awareness saved my life today.
I wish I could make it sound less dramatic than it is.
In fact I am actually having second thoughts as whether to push through to Melbourne now.
It is impossible to tell when luck is going to run out and yet I am also not one to respond to fear.
I am hoping more than anything that in a running total of 5500 kilometres to date, this incident was a one-off so I should take heed and pedal on.
If this is the decision, I now make for the town of Meningie tomorrow before taking on a 150 km stretch of The Coorong come Tuesday.
DAY 113 - MANNUM SA
MANNUM SA
DAY 113
As promised, I took a day around town.
Not a bad move either, as I was feeling just a little licked for some strange reason.
A spot of dehydration perhaps or maybe just a little fatigue.
Whatever, but it does surprise how often just a few hours of rest can work a treat.
Mannum is quite a pretty part of the world anyway, so no excuse required really.
I’m back on the Murray River – somewhere I haven’t been for over 2 months.
The Murray being as long as it is allows one to engage it in vastly different regions and I am indeed in a vastly different region to where I encountered it previously.
In South Australian parlance, this area is known as “Murraylands” – as distinct from “Riverland”, where the Murray flows into South Australia from Victoria in the north.
This section of the river is very much regarded as “downstream”.
Only a matter of miles south of here, the Murray famously enters the ocean at Lake Alexandrina.
In fact, my next destination Wellington is located at this very junction.
Mannum is a popular tourist stop for numerous reasons - least of all it is a well situated and nicely stocked town – a handful of historic pubs, eateries, plenty of accommodation etc.
The main drawcards however are the houseboat and paddlesteamer culture, allowing folk to hire out luxury houseboats for day tripping or even longer excursions with all your wealthy friends.
P.S Marion is Mannum’s historic paddlesteamer in residence and is similarly open for tourist inspection and short-hauls down the river on demand.
The 24-hour/7-day-a-week vehicle punt adds to the ambience although this is hardly a feature exclusive to Mannum.
South Australian river towns north and south have these punts running across day and night, not something to be found so much in the Victorian Murray regions for some reason.
Alas, yet another nasty little storm front has blown into Mannum this evening, so I must anticipate tomorrow’s activity with contingency in mind.
I’d quite clearly prefer to get moving but this weather is for fools and ducks exclusively.
And being neither of these, I’ll just have to wait and see.
DAY 113
As promised, I took a day around town.
Not a bad move either, as I was feeling just a little licked for some strange reason.
A spot of dehydration perhaps or maybe just a little fatigue.
Whatever, but it does surprise how often just a few hours of rest can work a treat.
Mannum is quite a pretty part of the world anyway, so no excuse required really.
I’m back on the Murray River – somewhere I haven’t been for over 2 months.
The Murray being as long as it is allows one to engage it in vastly different regions and I am indeed in a vastly different region to where I encountered it previously.
In South Australian parlance, this area is known as “Murraylands” – as distinct from “Riverland”, where the Murray flows into South Australia from Victoria in the north.
This section of the river is very much regarded as “downstream”.
Only a matter of miles south of here, the Murray famously enters the ocean at Lake Alexandrina.
In fact, my next destination Wellington is located at this very junction.
Mannum is a popular tourist stop for numerous reasons - least of all it is a well situated and nicely stocked town – a handful of historic pubs, eateries, plenty of accommodation etc.
The main drawcards however are the houseboat and paddlesteamer culture, allowing folk to hire out luxury houseboats for day tripping or even longer excursions with all your wealthy friends.
P.S Marion is Mannum’s historic paddlesteamer in residence and is similarly open for tourist inspection and short-hauls down the river on demand.
The 24-hour/7-day-a-week vehicle punt adds to the ambience although this is hardly a feature exclusive to Mannum.
South Australian river towns north and south have these punts running across day and night, not something to be found so much in the Victorian Murray regions for some reason.
Alas, yet another nasty little storm front has blown into Mannum this evening, so I must anticipate tomorrow’s activity with contingency in mind.
I’d quite clearly prefer to get moving but this weather is for fools and ducks exclusively.
And being neither of these, I’ll just have to wait and see.
Friday, July 18, 2008
DAY 112 - MANNUM SA
MANNUM SA
DAY 112
GAWLER - MANNUM
79.74 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.30 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 06m 44s
Max. Speed: 68.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.6 km/h
Someone mentioned a few days ago there would be some climbing between Gawler and Mannum.
They were right.
6 days off the bike and the Gods of Topography delivered a deluxe serving of Asskick today with a sweet raspberry on top.
The first 40 out of Gawler were as steep in sections as anything I’ve climbed to date.
16 km from Gawler, Williamstown is about halfway up one of South Australia’s biggest passes.
Well at least that’s what I thought until I took the Mannum turnoff after lunch.
This is when things got really serious.
Those hills that hem Adelaide in from the east kind of extend north of the city and then even further north they become the Flinders.
It was those bits just north of Adelaide that dragged me all the way over them today.
And no amount of yelping and screaming and swearing was set to help my cause.
In time, I actually came to realise I got the better cut.
For as much hardcore climbing as I did this morning and even after lunch, the downhill drop beyond the town of Tungkillo is where it really takes off.
It is a 10 km screamer – way long and easily as steep as Victoria Pass in the Blue Mountains just north of Palmer.
The speed limit through Palmer is 50 km/h and for good reason.
I breezed through at 64 km/h around 3 pm – I just couldn’t let the end of that final downhill pinch go to waste.
Nice town, Palmer - only you’d only ever find me flying through in one direction.
Beyond here, it is a 15 km run into Mannum that dreams are made of – flat downhill and fast and just a hint of tailwind with a late afternoon July sun finally sinking through the cold walls of darkness behind me.
Mannum was mine by 4.30 when at one stage any hour seemed reasonable.
I think I will stay here a day and have a look around.
It was well earned.
DAY 112
GAWLER - MANNUM
79.74 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.30 (7h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 06m 44s
Max. Speed: 68.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.6 km/h
Someone mentioned a few days ago there would be some climbing between Gawler and Mannum.
They were right.
6 days off the bike and the Gods of Topography delivered a deluxe serving of Asskick today with a sweet raspberry on top.
The first 40 out of Gawler were as steep in sections as anything I’ve climbed to date.
16 km from Gawler, Williamstown is about halfway up one of South Australia’s biggest passes.
Well at least that’s what I thought until I took the Mannum turnoff after lunch.
This is when things got really serious.
Those hills that hem Adelaide in from the east kind of extend north of the city and then even further north they become the Flinders.
It was those bits just north of Adelaide that dragged me all the way over them today.
And no amount of yelping and screaming and swearing was set to help my cause.
In time, I actually came to realise I got the better cut.
For as much hardcore climbing as I did this morning and even after lunch, the downhill drop beyond the town of Tungkillo is where it really takes off.
It is a 10 km screamer – way long and easily as steep as Victoria Pass in the Blue Mountains just north of Palmer.
The speed limit through Palmer is 50 km/h and for good reason.
I breezed through at 64 km/h around 3 pm – I just couldn’t let the end of that final downhill pinch go to waste.
Nice town, Palmer - only you’d only ever find me flying through in one direction.
Beyond here, it is a 15 km run into Mannum that dreams are made of – flat downhill and fast and just a hint of tailwind with a late afternoon July sun finally sinking through the cold walls of darkness behind me.
Mannum was mine by 4.30 when at one stage any hour seemed reasonable.
I think I will stay here a day and have a look around.
It was well earned.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
DAY 111 - GAWLER SA
GAWLER SA
DAY 111
ADELAIDE - GAWLER
82.84 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.00 (7h)
Time on Bike: 5h 10m 03s
Max. Speed: 60 km/h
Av. Speed: 16 km/h
I made the return trip to Gawler and have arrived intact.
Final big thank youse to Geoff and Hellina Barnes as well as Steve and Anne Lewis for fine hospitality during the past week in Adelaide.
This is the 3rd and final transit through Gawler for this trip as I start heading east tomorrow for the journey through to Melbourne.
Overeating was once again on the agenda earlier this evening at the Gawler Arms.
I know it is only a treat so I don’t hold back.
If I was doing it all the time, then I think some kind of serious health problem would develop.
Something like a heart condition or an intestinal disorder or probably just plain fatness.
I think I actually have started on an intestinal problem already.
All the more reason to get riding back to Melbourne….
Adelaide to me was something of a disappointment initially.
Having used up at least 9 lives coming in along Main North Road, first impressions linger.
And knowing it as I do, I would gladly promote Sydney anywhere as one of the least bike-centric places on the planet.
On arrival in Adelaide, I may not have hesitated in nominating it as Sydney’s little sister.
The trick in Adelaide is local knowledge.
Bike tracks are prolific – you just need to find them.
And once you do, they are a pleasure.
The premier track in Adelaide is the Linear Park track.
This is a dual purpose track (bikes/pedestrians) with a north-eastern head in the Holden Hill area.
If you can pick it up from here, it runs for 25 kilometres along the River Torrens into the centre of Adelaide.
From the city centre, another 15 kilometres runs all the way out to the beaches with a western head at the Torrens ocean outlet in West Beach.
The Linear Park track is magnificent – beautiful as it runs the full length of the river banks in both directions and interesting as it passes through some of Adelaide’s more exclusive and impressive postcodes.
Some of the architecture is just top-shelf – not in a big, overbearing and excessive Sydney or Perth kind of way.
The uniqueness of Adelaide architecture is represented mainly by beautifully and tastefully constructed sandstone bungalows - more low-slung and compact than multi-level layers of concrete and glass.
Other materials like timber feature heavily – Australia has every kind of gum tree on earth as well as other indigenous hardwoods that are superb building materials.
And I sure would like to think these wonderfully crafted homes will hold their own down the years and not be sacrificed for more soul-less higher-density accommodation.
Prices don’t get any friendlier, that is for certain – not even in Adelaide.
So long as the population doesn’t spike for any particular reason, 1.5 – 2 million people will probably continue to live and work and play within the city limits for years to come.
For now, Adelaide has become a nice section of vista in my rear-view mirror and I press east towards the town of Mannum tomorrow.
DAY 111
ADELAIDE - GAWLER
82.84 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.00 (7h)
Time on Bike: 5h 10m 03s
Max. Speed: 60 km/h
Av. Speed: 16 km/h
I made the return trip to Gawler and have arrived intact.
Final big thank youse to Geoff and Hellina Barnes as well as Steve and Anne Lewis for fine hospitality during the past week in Adelaide.
This is the 3rd and final transit through Gawler for this trip as I start heading east tomorrow for the journey through to Melbourne.
Overeating was once again on the agenda earlier this evening at the Gawler Arms.
I know it is only a treat so I don’t hold back.
If I was doing it all the time, then I think some kind of serious health problem would develop.
Something like a heart condition or an intestinal disorder or probably just plain fatness.
I think I actually have started on an intestinal problem already.
All the more reason to get riding back to Melbourne….
Adelaide to me was something of a disappointment initially.
Having used up at least 9 lives coming in along Main North Road, first impressions linger.
And knowing it as I do, I would gladly promote Sydney anywhere as one of the least bike-centric places on the planet.
On arrival in Adelaide, I may not have hesitated in nominating it as Sydney’s little sister.
The trick in Adelaide is local knowledge.
Bike tracks are prolific – you just need to find them.
And once you do, they are a pleasure.
The premier track in Adelaide is the Linear Park track.
This is a dual purpose track (bikes/pedestrians) with a north-eastern head in the Holden Hill area.
If you can pick it up from here, it runs for 25 kilometres along the River Torrens into the centre of Adelaide.
From the city centre, another 15 kilometres runs all the way out to the beaches with a western head at the Torrens ocean outlet in West Beach.
The Linear Park track is magnificent – beautiful as it runs the full length of the river banks in both directions and interesting as it passes through some of Adelaide’s more exclusive and impressive postcodes.
Some of the architecture is just top-shelf – not in a big, overbearing and excessive Sydney or Perth kind of way.
The uniqueness of Adelaide architecture is represented mainly by beautifully and tastefully constructed sandstone bungalows - more low-slung and compact than multi-level layers of concrete and glass.
Other materials like timber feature heavily – Australia has every kind of gum tree on earth as well as other indigenous hardwoods that are superb building materials.
And I sure would like to think these wonderfully crafted homes will hold their own down the years and not be sacrificed for more soul-less higher-density accommodation.
Prices don’t get any friendlier, that is for certain – not even in Adelaide.
So long as the population doesn’t spike for any particular reason, 1.5 – 2 million people will probably continue to live and work and play within the city limits for years to come.
For now, Adelaide has become a nice section of vista in my rear-view mirror and I press east towards the town of Mannum tomorrow.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
DAY 110 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 110
31.19 km
Total Time: 11.30 – 16.45 (1h)
Time on Bike: 1h 46m 04s
Max. Speed: 33.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.6 km/h
I leave Adelaide tomorrow for Gawler.
Another chapter is drawing to a close but not before one final round of gluttony at the Gawler Arms tomorrow evening and I refuse to take on any guilt about it….
I took the bike out this afternoon on another run to Semaphore and Largs Pier.
On certain days, photo sessions offer themselves quite freely but today just wasn’t one of them.
With every plan to seize the moment, the conditions make life rather a chore.
I’m guessing this means I must learn to use such conditions more to my advantage, no matter what the situation.
After all, I do take a high measure of enjoyment in getting some quality shots however it is gloomy affairs like today that make me work a little harder for the money.
By the end, I finished with some quite acceptable results of a fine subject on an average day.
I can be happy with this.
This evening was spent at the Buckingham Arms Hotel in the Medindie area of Adelaide for reasons of being invited to a monthly gathering of the Vincent Motorcycle Owners of SA.
Not that I own a Vincent (or ever will), but you see I’m in with the club now that I’m sort of an honorary member or at least a visiting tag-along or some other such thing.
If this makes sense to the uninitiated reader, well maybe I should clarify that we’ve previously met, the Vincent owners and I.
And I’ve kind of kept in touch with some of them over the time and they’ve kept in touch with me and my wanderings.
So with me being in Adelaide and them meeting in Adelaide tonight, it was a nice excuse to get together for a feed and drink and for me to show off some of my travel photography to an otherwise captive audience.
That’s all there was to it and a more than suitable way to spend my final evening in Adelaide.
I have wholly mixed feelings about the next section of the trip that officially gets underway tomorrow morning.
Too much for the current posting, but perhaps more to come in days ahead.
I thank you Adelaide.
DAY 110
31.19 km
Total Time: 11.30 – 16.45 (1h)
Time on Bike: 1h 46m 04s
Max. Speed: 33.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.6 km/h
I leave Adelaide tomorrow for Gawler.
Another chapter is drawing to a close but not before one final round of gluttony at the Gawler Arms tomorrow evening and I refuse to take on any guilt about it….
I took the bike out this afternoon on another run to Semaphore and Largs Pier.
On certain days, photo sessions offer themselves quite freely but today just wasn’t one of them.
With every plan to seize the moment, the conditions make life rather a chore.
I’m guessing this means I must learn to use such conditions more to my advantage, no matter what the situation.
After all, I do take a high measure of enjoyment in getting some quality shots however it is gloomy affairs like today that make me work a little harder for the money.
By the end, I finished with some quite acceptable results of a fine subject on an average day.
I can be happy with this.
This evening was spent at the Buckingham Arms Hotel in the Medindie area of Adelaide for reasons of being invited to a monthly gathering of the Vincent Motorcycle Owners of SA.
Not that I own a Vincent (or ever will), but you see I’m in with the club now that I’m sort of an honorary member or at least a visiting tag-along or some other such thing.
If this makes sense to the uninitiated reader, well maybe I should clarify that we’ve previously met, the Vincent owners and I.
And I’ve kind of kept in touch with some of them over the time and they’ve kept in touch with me and my wanderings.
So with me being in Adelaide and them meeting in Adelaide tonight, it was a nice excuse to get together for a feed and drink and for me to show off some of my travel photography to an otherwise captive audience.
That’s all there was to it and a more than suitable way to spend my final evening in Adelaide.
I have wholly mixed feelings about the next section of the trip that officially gets underway tomorrow morning.
Too much for the current posting, but perhaps more to come in days ahead.
I thank you Adelaide.
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
DAY 109 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 109
BLACK FOREST – HENLEY BEACH
18.36 km
Total Time: 15.30 – 16.30 (1h)
Time on Bike: 58m 38s
Max. Speed: 27.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.8 km/h
I moved across from Black Forest to Henley Beach this afternoon.
Massive thank you’s once again to Geoff and Hellina Barnes for some of the finest and homely hospitality anywhere.
And an introduction now to my current hosts in Henley Beach, Steve and Anne Lewis.
Steve, Anne and myself met in Blinman on a cold, cold night just on nigh 2 weeks ago.
Stoking that log fire in the Blinman Hotel dining room was the catalyst for our connection and I am most grateful to accept more of this South Australian hospitality that seems to be following me around over here.
My tenure in Adelaide is extended by yet another couple of days and the weather forecasts are loaded with gloominess for the next week or more.
I can’t be entirely sure whether hanging about like this is set to be help or hindrance but what I do know is that any kind of hospitality is usually good hospitality and it’s invariably best to grab it when it is on offer.
So this is what I’m doing.
Tomorrow has another exciting program of mini-adventures in store, so I will leave things until then to unfold as they may.
DAY 109
BLACK FOREST – HENLEY BEACH
18.36 km
Total Time: 15.30 – 16.30 (1h)
Time on Bike: 58m 38s
Max. Speed: 27.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 18.8 km/h
I moved across from Black Forest to Henley Beach this afternoon.
Massive thank you’s once again to Geoff and Hellina Barnes for some of the finest and homely hospitality anywhere.
And an introduction now to my current hosts in Henley Beach, Steve and Anne Lewis.
Steve, Anne and myself met in Blinman on a cold, cold night just on nigh 2 weeks ago.
Stoking that log fire in the Blinman Hotel dining room was the catalyst for our connection and I am most grateful to accept more of this South Australian hospitality that seems to be following me around over here.
My tenure in Adelaide is extended by yet another couple of days and the weather forecasts are loaded with gloominess for the next week or more.
I can’t be entirely sure whether hanging about like this is set to be help or hindrance but what I do know is that any kind of hospitality is usually good hospitality and it’s invariably best to grab it when it is on offer.
So this is what I’m doing.
Tomorrow has another exciting program of mini-adventures in store, so I will leave things until then to unfold as they may.
DAY 108 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 108
The bike is back on deck but not without issues.
Some moving parts are approaching 7000 kilometres and this is more than a fair share.
I’m feeling it should be together enough to reach to Melbourne but beyond this, some more serious attention will be booked in on arrival in Sydney.
I will push on and am due to shift across to Henley Beach tomorrow afternoon.
With no further developments, a departure for Melbourne is scheduled for Thursday.
DAY 108
The bike is back on deck but not without issues.
Some moving parts are approaching 7000 kilometres and this is more than a fair share.
I’m feeling it should be together enough to reach to Melbourne but beyond this, some more serious attention will be booked in on arrival in Sydney.
I will push on and am due to shift across to Henley Beach tomorrow afternoon.
With no further developments, a departure for Melbourne is scheduled for Thursday.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
DAY 107 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 107
I was taken on a tour today of LeFevre Peninsula, which includes the Port Adelaide area as well as the precincts of Semaphore, Outer Harbour and several others.
My host Hellina was born to Ukrainian post-war immigrants and grew up in this area so it was all something of a history lesson.
Most things have changed just a little in 60-odd years, not least the sand dunes on which everything has been gradually built upon.
Much of this strip of coastline is now prime real estate which makes it totally exposed to heavy alteration if not complete destruction.
Glenelg has been successfully converted into a mass high-rise resort and marina over barely a 20-year time frame and it would be fairly tragic for this pattern to migrate elsewhere.
What sadly seems inevitable is the removal of the many historic stone and timber beach bungalows that have stood firm for decades, making way for shinier multi-level concrete and glass that rent out to executive tenants for a summer bonanza.
This is exactly what has happened in northern Sydney on a large scale and as an observant traveller, I cannot see the long term future in a place like Adelaide for this mercenary style of over-development.
For now, Adelaide’s western coastline seems to be treading an interestingly fine line and enjoying the best of both in many ways.
My personal regard for South Australia on this expedition has been determined by the care and attention to heritage preservation of the places I have travelled through - this is the very reason it is valuable as a destination to either visit or to live in.
So to think about this being diminished or destroyed in some way is surely cultural suicide for a state that sells itself as something of an Aussie cultural icon…..
The iconic Semaphore Palais was pretty much the place to be for a sunny winter Sunday lunch hour.
A mixed platter of squid and chorizo sausage combined with antipasto and other thingy dips on the side to warm us out of the prevailing sou westerly discomfort.
We returned to base in Black Forest before backing up for an evening barbeque session at the house of Roscoe, a well-known acquaintance of my hosts and a just as well known collector of classic motorcycles.
I was fortunate enough to receive a guided tour of his dozen-strong quiver post-dinner.
9 or 10 Honda’s dominate along with a couple of mint BSA’s.
Some get ridden, some don’t.
That’s just the way it is, although I should consider it an even bigger privilege that I was allowed to fire up one of the Honda 1100’s.
I stopped short of asking to take it for a rip however.
A little too ambitious perhaps with a little too much wine under my skin….
DAY 107
I was taken on a tour today of LeFevre Peninsula, which includes the Port Adelaide area as well as the precincts of Semaphore, Outer Harbour and several others.
My host Hellina was born to Ukrainian post-war immigrants and grew up in this area so it was all something of a history lesson.
Most things have changed just a little in 60-odd years, not least the sand dunes on which everything has been gradually built upon.
Much of this strip of coastline is now prime real estate which makes it totally exposed to heavy alteration if not complete destruction.
Glenelg has been successfully converted into a mass high-rise resort and marina over barely a 20-year time frame and it would be fairly tragic for this pattern to migrate elsewhere.
What sadly seems inevitable is the removal of the many historic stone and timber beach bungalows that have stood firm for decades, making way for shinier multi-level concrete and glass that rent out to executive tenants for a summer bonanza.
This is exactly what has happened in northern Sydney on a large scale and as an observant traveller, I cannot see the long term future in a place like Adelaide for this mercenary style of over-development.
For now, Adelaide’s western coastline seems to be treading an interestingly fine line and enjoying the best of both in many ways.
My personal regard for South Australia on this expedition has been determined by the care and attention to heritage preservation of the places I have travelled through - this is the very reason it is valuable as a destination to either visit or to live in.
So to think about this being diminished or destroyed in some way is surely cultural suicide for a state that sells itself as something of an Aussie cultural icon…..
The iconic Semaphore Palais was pretty much the place to be for a sunny winter Sunday lunch hour.
A mixed platter of squid and chorizo sausage combined with antipasto and other thingy dips on the side to warm us out of the prevailing sou westerly discomfort.
We returned to base in Black Forest before backing up for an evening barbeque session at the house of Roscoe, a well-known acquaintance of my hosts and a just as well known collector of classic motorcycles.
I was fortunate enough to receive a guided tour of his dozen-strong quiver post-dinner.
9 or 10 Honda’s dominate along with a couple of mint BSA’s.
Some get ridden, some don’t.
That’s just the way it is, although I should consider it an even bigger privilege that I was allowed to fire up one of the Honda 1100’s.
I stopped short of asking to take it for a rip however.
A little too ambitious perhaps with a little too much wine under my skin….
DAY 106 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 106
If I were to write an anthem for Adelaide it would be called “The City of Abundance”.
I like it because it is abundant in a non-excessive kind of way.
My opinion of many big cities is of over-abundance and excess and general decay but this is not the feeling I have about Adelaide.
It is a city on the rise, if anything.
It could establish itself as a world-class venue more comfortable in its own skin than many of its counterparts, either here or internationally.
I would like to visit again in maybe 10 years and observe the changes in this time.
Since it is 17 years since my last visit here, the changes are more significant in that time than maybe the next 17, but I see it as a place than can basically write its own history rather than be governed by outside influences or external expectations.
I am aware that it has issues with public transportation and whilst this may seem like small fry now, it is a problem that Adelaide should address or else it may be more than just a problem before long.
Comparing one place with another is not something I find palatable at all.
Like comparing wine with beer or fish with chicken there is not much to be gained.
The learning is to experience the place and its people and the gauge by which many places are judged in these post-post-modern times is a strange measure known as “liveability”.
At least Adelaide possesses enough of what registers as “liveable” to expand its reach without completely suffocating it into an awaiting grave.
This is just my opinion but in seeing what has become of Sydney, I would not be one to recommend it as a blueprint.
Sydney is one of the more visionless venues of the world and it is saved only (again in my opinion) by a mostly favourable and blessed natural environment, for which every effort has been made to generally fuck it up.
No more of this for now however.
The plan is to enjoy the city of Adelaide until returning to the city of Sydney in just a few weeks for attendance to finances and other logistical matters.
Sydney is at least a favourable venue from which to approach these basic necessities.
DAY 106
If I were to write an anthem for Adelaide it would be called “The City of Abundance”.
I like it because it is abundant in a non-excessive kind of way.
My opinion of many big cities is of over-abundance and excess and general decay but this is not the feeling I have about Adelaide.
It is a city on the rise, if anything.
It could establish itself as a world-class venue more comfortable in its own skin than many of its counterparts, either here or internationally.
I would like to visit again in maybe 10 years and observe the changes in this time.
Since it is 17 years since my last visit here, the changes are more significant in that time than maybe the next 17, but I see it as a place than can basically write its own history rather than be governed by outside influences or external expectations.
I am aware that it has issues with public transportation and whilst this may seem like small fry now, it is a problem that Adelaide should address or else it may be more than just a problem before long.
Comparing one place with another is not something I find palatable at all.
Like comparing wine with beer or fish with chicken there is not much to be gained.
The learning is to experience the place and its people and the gauge by which many places are judged in these post-post-modern times is a strange measure known as “liveability”.
At least Adelaide possesses enough of what registers as “liveable” to expand its reach without completely suffocating it into an awaiting grave.
This is just my opinion but in seeing what has become of Sydney, I would not be one to recommend it as a blueprint.
Sydney is one of the more visionless venues of the world and it is saved only (again in my opinion) by a mostly favourable and blessed natural environment, for which every effort has been made to generally fuck it up.
No more of this for now however.
The plan is to enjoy the city of Adelaide until returning to the city of Sydney in just a few weeks for attendance to finances and other logistical matters.
Sydney is at least a favourable venue from which to approach these basic necessities.
Saturday, July 12, 2008
DAY 105 - ADELAIDE SA
ADELAIDE SA
DAY 105
GAWLER – ADELAIDE
73.25 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.45 (6h 45m)
Time on Bike: 4h 23m 09s
Max. Speed: 58.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.7 km/h
Back in Adelaide and I now need to make a call on the Melbourne decision.
Truth be told, I’m up for it.
I think it could be a rewarding 3 weeks.
And I also think it could be cold, wet and difficult.
This is how it stacks up.
In these circumstances, I am more likely to go for it than to shy away from it.
The rewards are greater than the potential suffering.
And besides, I’m not quite ready to give up and get on that plane just yet….
I’m staying with friends Geoff and Hellina in the Black Forest area once again and also have some other people to catch up with whilst I’m around.
I’ll be here at least a few days and maybe even up to a week, depending on what happens.
Immediately, the bike is in need of some minor but important maintenance and I have also established a small shopping list of various items to take care of as the opportunity presents.
This is always the small stuff but it needs to be done, whether you choose to sweat it or not.
Neglect this and it is not at all surprising how quickly the bigger stuff can start to unravel.
For now, the weekend is on and Adelaide is the place to be.
DAY 105
GAWLER – ADELAIDE
73.25 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 16.45 (6h 45m)
Time on Bike: 4h 23m 09s
Max. Speed: 58.4 km/h
Av. Speed: 16.7 km/h
Back in Adelaide and I now need to make a call on the Melbourne decision.
Truth be told, I’m up for it.
I think it could be a rewarding 3 weeks.
And I also think it could be cold, wet and difficult.
This is how it stacks up.
In these circumstances, I am more likely to go for it than to shy away from it.
The rewards are greater than the potential suffering.
And besides, I’m not quite ready to give up and get on that plane just yet….
I’m staying with friends Geoff and Hellina in the Black Forest area once again and also have some other people to catch up with whilst I’m around.
I’ll be here at least a few days and maybe even up to a week, depending on what happens.
Immediately, the bike is in need of some minor but important maintenance and I have also established a small shopping list of various items to take care of as the opportunity presents.
This is always the small stuff but it needs to be done, whether you choose to sweat it or not.
Neglect this and it is not at all surprising how quickly the bigger stuff can start to unravel.
For now, the weekend is on and Adelaide is the place to be.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
DAY 104 - GAWLER SA
GAWLER SA
DAY 104
CLARE - GAWLER
95.84 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 17.00 (7h)
Time on Bike: 6h 10m 55s
Max. Speed: 50.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.5 km/h
I’ve been quite looking forward to getting back to Gawler.
It is quite a nice little town after all and in the region, it is something of a hub for everything in all directions.
Adelaide in the south, Clare Valley and Flinders Ranges in the north, Barossa Valley in the East and the A1 to Port Augusta and everywhere else in the west.
The main point of interest for me however, (aside from direct access to Adelaide) is the $14 buffet at The Arms Hotel.
It is a 3-course affair and on an all-you-can-eat basis.
For the 5200 kilometre cyclist, it just doesn’t get any better at the end of another hard day on the hustings.
The dessert bar in particular is a killer.
Personally, the most satisfying bit is completely drowning the contents of my bowl with chocolate syrup and if I can be bothered with cream, nuts and choccy bits on top, then even better.
I don’t really care what anyone else thinks and I know they were thinking something, just by the subtle disapproving glances from here and there.
It is rather tempting to lick the bowl at the end as well, ‘cos I know I would probably even frown on this myself.
I do thereby maintain that childish behaviour should still be tolerated at certain times…..
Today’s ride was rather an exercise in debunking the myth that B82 between Clare and Gawler is mostly downhill.
I have arrived back in Gawler incredulous as to how I ever came to believe this to be in the first instance.
Riding north from Gawler up into the Clare Valley is generally uphill but somehow this does not translate to the reverse direction being generally downhill.
Quite an interesting phenomena this one.
I took the ride in 3 sections today.
Clare to Auburn was easily the run of the day – 21 km and quite a nice runaway following an initial 6 km climb out of Clare.
Auburn to Tarlee is 30 kilometres and just that much slower with a nice, generous sized pinch out of the town of Rhynie included for free.
I caught the spraying edge of a rain shower that had just delivered a load on Tarlee only moments before halting for a lunch break and my humour was all the better for not having to dine out in wet apparel.
The next 3 or 4 rain showers however did not miss me post-Tarlee and neither did the wind.
This was counterpart to some high-endeavour mountain passes and some high-quality profanity as the road moves closer to Gawler.
And traffic today was heavy, in a big-style kind of way.
South Aussie school holidays are accountable as I see it because conditions were simply not like this when I traversed this area some weeks ago.
The Main North Road into Gawler was nothing shy of treacherous come 4 pm, with wind, rain, rush hour traffic and failing light all contributing to the challenge.
Another day on the road was signed for by 5 pm and fortunately for me, without serious incident.
I was only to be found in the Gawler Arms Hotel at any time after this.
DAY 104
CLARE - GAWLER
95.84 km
Total Time: 10.00 – 17.00 (7h)
Time on Bike: 6h 10m 55s
Max. Speed: 50.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.5 km/h
I’ve been quite looking forward to getting back to Gawler.
It is quite a nice little town after all and in the region, it is something of a hub for everything in all directions.
Adelaide in the south, Clare Valley and Flinders Ranges in the north, Barossa Valley in the East and the A1 to Port Augusta and everywhere else in the west.
The main point of interest for me however, (aside from direct access to Adelaide) is the $14 buffet at The Arms Hotel.
It is a 3-course affair and on an all-you-can-eat basis.
For the 5200 kilometre cyclist, it just doesn’t get any better at the end of another hard day on the hustings.
The dessert bar in particular is a killer.
Personally, the most satisfying bit is completely drowning the contents of my bowl with chocolate syrup and if I can be bothered with cream, nuts and choccy bits on top, then even better.
I don’t really care what anyone else thinks and I know they were thinking something, just by the subtle disapproving glances from here and there.
It is rather tempting to lick the bowl at the end as well, ‘cos I know I would probably even frown on this myself.
I do thereby maintain that childish behaviour should still be tolerated at certain times…..
Today’s ride was rather an exercise in debunking the myth that B82 between Clare and Gawler is mostly downhill.
I have arrived back in Gawler incredulous as to how I ever came to believe this to be in the first instance.
Riding north from Gawler up into the Clare Valley is generally uphill but somehow this does not translate to the reverse direction being generally downhill.
Quite an interesting phenomena this one.
I took the ride in 3 sections today.
Clare to Auburn was easily the run of the day – 21 km and quite a nice runaway following an initial 6 km climb out of Clare.
Auburn to Tarlee is 30 kilometres and just that much slower with a nice, generous sized pinch out of the town of Rhynie included for free.
I caught the spraying edge of a rain shower that had just delivered a load on Tarlee only moments before halting for a lunch break and my humour was all the better for not having to dine out in wet apparel.
The next 3 or 4 rain showers however did not miss me post-Tarlee and neither did the wind.
This was counterpart to some high-endeavour mountain passes and some high-quality profanity as the road moves closer to Gawler.
And traffic today was heavy, in a big-style kind of way.
South Aussie school holidays are accountable as I see it because conditions were simply not like this when I traversed this area some weeks ago.
The Main North Road into Gawler was nothing shy of treacherous come 4 pm, with wind, rain, rush hour traffic and failing light all contributing to the challenge.
Another day on the road was signed for by 5 pm and fortunately for me, without serious incident.
I was only to be found in the Gawler Arms Hotel at any time after this.
DAY 103 - CLARE SA
CLARE SA
DAY 103
JAMESTOWN - CLARE
83.59 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 39m 43s
Max. Speed: 46 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.9 km/h
I rode today.
A 50/50 decision was tipped by better weather – it just wasn’t quite cold or windy or wet as it was supposed to be.
My tent was actually dry when I packed it up.
The ride itself was in 2 main sections.
34 kilometres to Spalding was a flyer – 1 hour 45 minutes was a good return but 2:45 for 39 km from Spalding to Clare was just not quite as handsome.
Rolling into Clare around 2 pm, forecasts of 10ºC were probably generous.
It’s kind of hard to tell when you hop off the bike warm and everyone is dressed like an Eskimo.
Half an hour later, I was with the locals…..
With Adelaide now only 2 days onward, the finish line is drawing closer.
In saying this, there are still 1000 km or so to cover to reach Melbourne if I decide to go all the way.
I don’t see why not, although the weather is going to play a part.
The winter season has sunk in for real and it is not going to become somehow warmer and less windy between here and there.
Still, I cannot possibly use the weather as an excuse for not meeting my goal.
Clare is only a long day from Adelaide by bike – considering about 70% this is downhill, I could make it with a good effort tomorrow.
Instead I will opt for an overnight camp in Gawler tomorrow and into Adelaide on Friday.
This will be a nice opportunity to use my groovy new Adelaide bike maps (thanks gratuitously to Jeff in Port Lincoln) and stick it up that Main North Road once and for all.
I will enjoy every minute of weaving and dodging my way into town with all that inside knowledge along the back streets.
No seriously, it should be fun.
I’m also looking forward to catching up with friends Geoff and Hellina in the Black Forest area, as well as some new folk who I’ve met along the way.
And from Adelaide (weather allowing), it will take as long as it takes to make way to Melbourne.
3 weeks is a fair guess, though it could be quicker.
DAY 103
JAMESTOWN - CLARE
83.59 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 4h 39m 43s
Max. Speed: 46 km/h
Av. Speed: 17.9 km/h
I rode today.
A 50/50 decision was tipped by better weather – it just wasn’t quite cold or windy or wet as it was supposed to be.
My tent was actually dry when I packed it up.
The ride itself was in 2 main sections.
34 kilometres to Spalding was a flyer – 1 hour 45 minutes was a good return but 2:45 for 39 km from Spalding to Clare was just not quite as handsome.
Rolling into Clare around 2 pm, forecasts of 10ºC were probably generous.
It’s kind of hard to tell when you hop off the bike warm and everyone is dressed like an Eskimo.
Half an hour later, I was with the locals…..
With Adelaide now only 2 days onward, the finish line is drawing closer.
In saying this, there are still 1000 km or so to cover to reach Melbourne if I decide to go all the way.
I don’t see why not, although the weather is going to play a part.
The winter season has sunk in for real and it is not going to become somehow warmer and less windy between here and there.
Still, I cannot possibly use the weather as an excuse for not meeting my goal.
Clare is only a long day from Adelaide by bike – considering about 70% this is downhill, I could make it with a good effort tomorrow.
Instead I will opt for an overnight camp in Gawler tomorrow and into Adelaide on Friday.
This will be a nice opportunity to use my groovy new Adelaide bike maps (thanks gratuitously to Jeff in Port Lincoln) and stick it up that Main North Road once and for all.
I will enjoy every minute of weaving and dodging my way into town with all that inside knowledge along the back streets.
No seriously, it should be fun.
I’m also looking forward to catching up with friends Geoff and Hellina in the Black Forest area, as well as some new folk who I’ve met along the way.
And from Adelaide (weather allowing), it will take as long as it takes to make way to Melbourne.
3 weeks is a fair guess, though it could be quicker.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
DAY 102 - JAMESTOWN SA
JAMESTOWN SA
DAY 102
It is cold and wet and I won’t be riding in it.
Not after yesterday.
I spent all day in the Community Library today, posting 2 weeks of overdue blogs and pix and generally keeping warm.
The weather forecasts for the next days are dire – especially for my next destination Clare, which has been diagnosed as South Australia’s coldest place.
I am only 50/50 to ride on tomorrow.
A nor-westerly is due and this is the only thing tempting me.
10ºC in Clare certainly isn’t.
DAY 102
It is cold and wet and I won’t be riding in it.
Not after yesterday.
I spent all day in the Community Library today, posting 2 weeks of overdue blogs and pix and generally keeping warm.
The weather forecasts for the next days are dire – especially for my next destination Clare, which has been diagnosed as South Australia’s coldest place.
I am only 50/50 to ride on tomorrow.
A nor-westerly is due and this is the only thing tempting me.
10ºC in Clare certainly isn’t.
Monday, July 7, 2008
DAY 101 - JAMESTOWN SA
JAMESTOWN SA
DAY 101
ORROROO - JAMESTOWN
83.26 km
Total Time: 09.15 – 17.00 (7h 45m)
Time on Bike: 5h 55m 47s
Max. Speed: 37.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 14 km/h
I’ve been well lost in the Flinders Ranges, hence a blogging lapse for nearly 2 weeks.
All Flinders adventures and photos are now posted so please read below.
My experience today began with a C and ended with a T.
And this is not something a rabbit eats.
A diabolical day.
I’m unsure how best to bring it to life in words.
Perhaps it is best left alone.
Or perhaps it would make me feel better to unload on it.
Yes, I will.
The 57 kilometre section of highway between Orroroo and Jamestown would have tested me even in good conditions.
50 of these were slow, sly and otherwise imperceptible uphill - I have already tasted it over the past 2 days from Parachilna.
What can be included in today’s account however is a top temperature of 11ºC, an ice-cold and gale-force headwind, 4 torrential downpours of rain including an ice-storm and 2 attempts to turn around and head back to Orroroo with the tailwind.
It was the ice-storm that concerned me most.
So cold was it that it effectively paralysed me.
I couldn’t continue – my arms and feet completely lost feeling – and all this in the middle of nowhere.
I really started to believe I was in serious trouble.
By either a stroke of desperation or great wisdom, I somehow summoned the presence of mind to get back on the bike and ride away from the storm by returning to the ghost town of Yatina, about 5 km down the way.
There is nothing in Yatina.
No, I remembered seeing one thing - an old and long-disused hotel which enabled 2 things - a place to temporarily shelter from the ferocious wind and ice as well as a change into dry clothes.
My hands were completely numb to any sensation so it was necessary to at least warm them enough to get into my kit bag.
30 minutes later, I may or may not have been ready to continue.
I did decide to leave until another storm hammered me about 8 kilometres further on and it simply seemed more prudent to quit and return to Orroroo with the tailwind.
It was back to Yatina again for some shelter in the interim.
The 2nd passing storm gave me time to make a decision one way or the other.
Fly back 25 kilometres to Orroroo and be there within 90 minutes or press on into the deadly conditions 32 kilometres to Jamestown and maybe arrive within 3 hours.
At 2 pm, there was still time if I had any remaining will.
It was by far the hardest path, but Jamestown it had to be.
I just don’t believe in backtracking.
I was subsequently pounded heavily by another 2 storms – the final one nearly taking me out completely, such was the cold force of wind and rain.
Not to mention passing traffic.
I arrived in Jamestown right on 5 pm, borderline hypothermic and quite dissatisfied with the whole scenario.
Basically, I never intend to experience another day like this.
It was truly soul-sapping as well as quite dangerous and scary at times.
And I don’t scare easily.
The weather forecasts are not at all promising for tomorrow which eliminates the option of moving on.
It will be challenge enough trying to stay dry and warm around town least of all throwing myself out there at its mercy.
DAY 101
ORROROO - JAMESTOWN
83.26 km
Total Time: 09.15 – 17.00 (7h 45m)
Time on Bike: 5h 55m 47s
Max. Speed: 37.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 14 km/h
I’ve been well lost in the Flinders Ranges, hence a blogging lapse for nearly 2 weeks.
All Flinders adventures and photos are now posted so please read below.
My experience today began with a C and ended with a T.
And this is not something a rabbit eats.
A diabolical day.
I’m unsure how best to bring it to life in words.
Perhaps it is best left alone.
Or perhaps it would make me feel better to unload on it.
Yes, I will.
The 57 kilometre section of highway between Orroroo and Jamestown would have tested me even in good conditions.
50 of these were slow, sly and otherwise imperceptible uphill - I have already tasted it over the past 2 days from Parachilna.
What can be included in today’s account however is a top temperature of 11ºC, an ice-cold and gale-force headwind, 4 torrential downpours of rain including an ice-storm and 2 attempts to turn around and head back to Orroroo with the tailwind.
It was the ice-storm that concerned me most.
So cold was it that it effectively paralysed me.
I couldn’t continue – my arms and feet completely lost feeling – and all this in the middle of nowhere.
I really started to believe I was in serious trouble.
By either a stroke of desperation or great wisdom, I somehow summoned the presence of mind to get back on the bike and ride away from the storm by returning to the ghost town of Yatina, about 5 km down the way.
There is nothing in Yatina.
No, I remembered seeing one thing - an old and long-disused hotel which enabled 2 things - a place to temporarily shelter from the ferocious wind and ice as well as a change into dry clothes.
My hands were completely numb to any sensation so it was necessary to at least warm them enough to get into my kit bag.
30 minutes later, I may or may not have been ready to continue.
I did decide to leave until another storm hammered me about 8 kilometres further on and it simply seemed more prudent to quit and return to Orroroo with the tailwind.
It was back to Yatina again for some shelter in the interim.
The 2nd passing storm gave me time to make a decision one way or the other.
Fly back 25 kilometres to Orroroo and be there within 90 minutes or press on into the deadly conditions 32 kilometres to Jamestown and maybe arrive within 3 hours.
At 2 pm, there was still time if I had any remaining will.
It was by far the hardest path, but Jamestown it had to be.
I just don’t believe in backtracking.
I was subsequently pounded heavily by another 2 storms – the final one nearly taking me out completely, such was the cold force of wind and rain.
Not to mention passing traffic.
I arrived in Jamestown right on 5 pm, borderline hypothermic and quite dissatisfied with the whole scenario.
Basically, I never intend to experience another day like this.
It was truly soul-sapping as well as quite dangerous and scary at times.
And I don’t scare easily.
The weather forecasts are not at all promising for tomorrow which eliminates the option of moving on.
It will be challenge enough trying to stay dry and warm around town least of all throwing myself out there at its mercy.
DAY 100 - ORROROO SA
ORROROO SA
DAY 100
HAWKER - ORROROO
118.45 km
Total Time: 09.15 – 16.30 (7h 15m)
Time on Bike: 6h 34m 19s
Max. Speed: 56.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 18 km/h
Happy Day 100 to me.
Orroroo is my first stop en route back to Adelaide, which is scheduled for arrival on Thursday.
A rollicking northerly is locked in for the trip and the final 120 km downhill run through Clare Valley should be all time.
It was solid days ride today and despite the initial 50 km grind, things picked up to my satisfaction.
It is a little too easy to anticipate a gift downhill run from north to south but that’s not how it started.
With such a massive tailwind, my griping reached new heights and another day of trudging along at 13 km/h was mine to savour.
Not until around 15 km south of the town of Cradock and 45 km along, it just started to go.
Perhaps all the hard Flinders grind was going to start paying me back?
I guess it had to really, so it was maybe a case of when…..
110 kilometres has been the biggest day for a few so my soul always responds better to the higher degree of enjoyment.
It makes me look forward to the new day much more although I can’t be sure what the weather is doing.
A cold, crotchety storm has paid Orroroo a visit this evening and whilst I’ll take the tailwind, the rain is always just a bit much.
One can never be too picky but I will be pushing further south to Jamestown tomorrow, come what may.
DAY 100
HAWKER - ORROROO
118.45 km
Total Time: 09.15 – 16.30 (7h 15m)
Time on Bike: 6h 34m 19s
Max. Speed: 56.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 18 km/h
Happy Day 100 to me.
Orroroo is my first stop en route back to Adelaide, which is scheduled for arrival on Thursday.
A rollicking northerly is locked in for the trip and the final 120 km downhill run through Clare Valley should be all time.
It was solid days ride today and despite the initial 50 km grind, things picked up to my satisfaction.
It is a little too easy to anticipate a gift downhill run from north to south but that’s not how it started.
With such a massive tailwind, my griping reached new heights and another day of trudging along at 13 km/h was mine to savour.
Not until around 15 km south of the town of Cradock and 45 km along, it just started to go.
Perhaps all the hard Flinders grind was going to start paying me back?
I guess it had to really, so it was maybe a case of when…..
110 kilometres has been the biggest day for a few so my soul always responds better to the higher degree of enjoyment.
It makes me look forward to the new day much more although I can’t be sure what the weather is doing.
A cold, crotchety storm has paid Orroroo a visit this evening and whilst I’ll take the tailwind, the rain is always just a bit much.
One can never be too picky but I will be pushing further south to Jamestown tomorrow, come what may.
DAY 99 - HAWKER SA
HAWKER SA
DAY 99
PARACHILNA - HAWKER
96.85 km
Total Time: 08.00 – 14.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 41m 38s
Max. Speed: 44.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 17 km/h
Today’s ride wasn’t high on the fun meter.
Sometimes everything looks so nice and flat but that’s not how it is.
The incline is so slight and constant as to not be even registering but you have to concede it is there.
Either this or my computer was stuck on 12 km/h all morning.
Stock grids and floodways are the main companions along Route B83.
The going was difficult enough and these special features are as helpful as rare disease.
Stock grids weren’t exactly designed with bicycle riders in mind and I’m not sure what happens when stray stock are actually caught in them.
As far as I can imagine they would be waiting for the next road train to come along and the rest is up to the ravens.
And as for floodways (which are only ever of use with water in them) – these are similar to sliding down a small hill on a pizza box and spending 2 hours climbing back to the top.
I only started to tire of these after the first dozen or so…..
Rewind some hours and well before embarking an ongoing series of swearing fits, I actually spotted my first wedge-tailed eagle this morning.
And it sure was a big whopper.
Even more impressive as it took off and gave a full working display of its wing span.
Majestic.
A little less exciting however, were the emus who gave me a foot race every so often.
Out of fear and stupidity more than anything but it was rather entertaining to watch these ridiculous flightless birds trying to run somewhere or anywhere trying to get away from me.
Turning inside and outside, shimmying straight across the road one way, then another and still not quite working it out.
Not quite as thick-witted as a sheep but quite close I would suggest….
The final insult of the day came 15 km north of Hawker and one of the steepest pinches of the trip to date.
Memories of Rocks Pass between Bathurst and Orange resonated.
This one was a little shorter but a whole lot steeper - complete in all its grandeur – all 6 kilometres of it and in 3 mouth-watering sections.
The downhill drop was even more exhilarating – a gentle 1500 meter coast to the bottom and a penultimate 12 km/h grind for the final 10 km into Hawker.
I was just a little grizzly on arrival but after a slightly restful afternoon, I will live to ride another day.
And tomorrow it is to destination Orroroo.
DAY 99
PARACHILNA - HAWKER
96.85 km
Total Time: 08.00 – 14.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 41m 38s
Max. Speed: 44.7 km/h
Av. Speed: 17 km/h
Today’s ride wasn’t high on the fun meter.
Sometimes everything looks so nice and flat but that’s not how it is.
The incline is so slight and constant as to not be even registering but you have to concede it is there.
Either this or my computer was stuck on 12 km/h all morning.
Stock grids and floodways are the main companions along Route B83.
The going was difficult enough and these special features are as helpful as rare disease.
Stock grids weren’t exactly designed with bicycle riders in mind and I’m not sure what happens when stray stock are actually caught in them.
As far as I can imagine they would be waiting for the next road train to come along and the rest is up to the ravens.
And as for floodways (which are only ever of use with water in them) – these are similar to sliding down a small hill on a pizza box and spending 2 hours climbing back to the top.
I only started to tire of these after the first dozen or so…..
Rewind some hours and well before embarking an ongoing series of swearing fits, I actually spotted my first wedge-tailed eagle this morning.
And it sure was a big whopper.
Even more impressive as it took off and gave a full working display of its wing span.
Majestic.
A little less exciting however, were the emus who gave me a foot race every so often.
Out of fear and stupidity more than anything but it was rather entertaining to watch these ridiculous flightless birds trying to run somewhere or anywhere trying to get away from me.
Turning inside and outside, shimmying straight across the road one way, then another and still not quite working it out.
Not quite as thick-witted as a sheep but quite close I would suggest….
The final insult of the day came 15 km north of Hawker and one of the steepest pinches of the trip to date.
Memories of Rocks Pass between Bathurst and Orange resonated.
This one was a little shorter but a whole lot steeper - complete in all its grandeur – all 6 kilometres of it and in 3 mouth-watering sections.
The downhill drop was even more exhilarating – a gentle 1500 meter coast to the bottom and a penultimate 12 km/h grind for the final 10 km into Hawker.
I was just a little grizzly on arrival but after a slightly restful afternoon, I will live to ride another day.
And tomorrow it is to destination Orroroo.
DAY 98 - PARACHILNA SA
PARACHILNA SA
DAY 98
BLINMAN - PARACHILNA
35.25 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.15 (6h 15m)
Time on Bike: 2h 29m 54s
Max. Speed: 52.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 14.1 km/h
Some weeks ago, the blog was enhanced by Aboriginal translations of some town names that I had visited.
And today, I will add another.
Parachilna roughly translates as:
“Disturbingly large number of flies to found somewhere (or anywhere for that matter) in the middle of winter.”
I believe this to be close enough anyhow.
Aside from flies, there is not much to be found in Parachilna at all.
Although there is the Prairie Hotel.
The Prairie is quite a fashionable affair really - an upmarket place to be in the middle of bloody nowhere, if you will.
Famous as much for its menu of Feral Food as much as past clientele.
Harvey Keitel and Kate Winslet were known to have dropped by during filming of Holy Smoke.
And as for Feral Food, one can basically take one’s pick.
My pick this evening was Camel Schnitzel in a mushroom sauce – as a generally non-meat eater, this indulgence is a one-off as I see it.
The Emu Pizza tempted me for a time, but I believe the Camel was the best choice…..
Possibly the achievement of the day however, was arriving with my tyres still inflated.
Parachilna Gorge rates as serious a challenge as any to a set of soft rubber road tyres.
Conventional wisdom should demand that I change to off-roaders for any future gravel bashes.
And this I will.
The Blinman road yesterday was made to look more like a race track against the rocky, corrugated mess of today.
Some 20 km of the entire 30 was downhill, which kind of made amends.
The creek beds were the worst - mostly sitting at the base of steep floodways, you get to pick up top speed on the fly down, only to crunch the brakes as riverbed boulders come on quicker than you can even see them.
I sort of got the gist after the first few and eased down the drop in anticipation.
It had to be for the best.
And the trip from Blinman to Parachilna is not complete without a stopover in Angorichina Village.
Angorichina was once a hospital to house Tuberculosis patients – the location so selected because of its obvious isolation.
My visit today was primarily for a food stop as well as taking a walk to the Blinman Pools.
The entire hike is a 12 km/4-hour return – mostly rock-hopping the bone dry river bed of a substantial section of Parachilna Gorge.
I saved myself the trouble and walked as far as the near pools, which were generally pleasant enough for my menial needs.
I was gone for a good share of 2 hours anyway, taking photos and generally pissing about - it fitted in quite well really.
One thing is for certain though and there is nothing in Parachilna to keep me here longer than tonight – not even Emu pizza.
A 90 km section of B83 back to Hawker in on for tomorrow and I am favouring an early start.
DAY 98
BLINMAN - PARACHILNA
35.25 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.15 (6h 15m)
Time on Bike: 2h 29m 54s
Max. Speed: 52.1 km/h
Av. Speed: 14.1 km/h
Some weeks ago, the blog was enhanced by Aboriginal translations of some town names that I had visited.
And today, I will add another.
Parachilna roughly translates as:
“Disturbingly large number of flies to found somewhere (or anywhere for that matter) in the middle of winter.”
I believe this to be close enough anyhow.
Aside from flies, there is not much to be found in Parachilna at all.
Although there is the Prairie Hotel.
The Prairie is quite a fashionable affair really - an upmarket place to be in the middle of bloody nowhere, if you will.
Famous as much for its menu of Feral Food as much as past clientele.
Harvey Keitel and Kate Winslet were known to have dropped by during filming of Holy Smoke.
And as for Feral Food, one can basically take one’s pick.
My pick this evening was Camel Schnitzel in a mushroom sauce – as a generally non-meat eater, this indulgence is a one-off as I see it.
The Emu Pizza tempted me for a time, but I believe the Camel was the best choice…..
Possibly the achievement of the day however, was arriving with my tyres still inflated.
Parachilna Gorge rates as serious a challenge as any to a set of soft rubber road tyres.
Conventional wisdom should demand that I change to off-roaders for any future gravel bashes.
And this I will.
The Blinman road yesterday was made to look more like a race track against the rocky, corrugated mess of today.
Some 20 km of the entire 30 was downhill, which kind of made amends.
The creek beds were the worst - mostly sitting at the base of steep floodways, you get to pick up top speed on the fly down, only to crunch the brakes as riverbed boulders come on quicker than you can even see them.
I sort of got the gist after the first few and eased down the drop in anticipation.
It had to be for the best.
And the trip from Blinman to Parachilna is not complete without a stopover in Angorichina Village.
Angorichina was once a hospital to house Tuberculosis patients – the location so selected because of its obvious isolation.
My visit today was primarily for a food stop as well as taking a walk to the Blinman Pools.
The entire hike is a 12 km/4-hour return – mostly rock-hopping the bone dry river bed of a substantial section of Parachilna Gorge.
I saved myself the trouble and walked as far as the near pools, which were generally pleasant enough for my menial needs.
I was gone for a good share of 2 hours anyway, taking photos and generally pissing about - it fitted in quite well really.
One thing is for certain though and there is nothing in Parachilna to keep me here longer than tonight – not even Emu pizza.
A 90 km section of B83 back to Hawker in on for tomorrow and I am favouring an early start.
DAY 97 - BLINMAN SA
BLINMAN SA
DAY 97
WILPENA - BLINMAN
69.77 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 11m 54s
Max. Speed: 49.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 13.4 km/h
Blinman claims to be the highest town in South Australia and it sure bloody feels like it.
There aren’t too many easy miles in this part of the world and it is not something I’ll miss when I turn around and head for Adelaide.
The ongoing drama of the Flinderscape is the obvious payoff, but you’d best believe it is well earned.
Today’s ride was an extended gravel bash if the uphill pinch wasn’t enough to keep me interested.
The first 4 km and final 8 km were my bitumen grace for the day, but to be completely fair, the majority of unsealed carriage was not half as bad as it may have been.
The odd rocky patch was the exception although corrugations were generally well represented.
It is planned that the entire Wilpena – Blinman run is to be sealed within 12 months and works are well advanced for 15 km past Wilpena.
The truck convoy over this section was not much for my cause however, showering me with a rich mix of gravel and dust with every pass.
And these were the ones that slowed down.
This section of highway also includes some of the steepest pinches in the Flinders Ranges, as it happens.
I just decided to stop for photo time more often.
It really was the best thing to do and apart from which, I did get some nice shots.
The road crew was generally quite helpful throughout, keeping the truckies alerted to my whereabouts.
I just needed to stay out of their way.
5 hours for just shy of 70 kilometres is tough change for the day but I always get to where I’m going.
I’ve pitched in what passes for the town camping area and $5 for the experience is probably just as tough change.
Not to complain for so few hours out of my existence and a new adventure on the Blinman to Parachilna road awaits tomorrow.
I have at least scored some computer time this evening by the Blinman Hotel’s dining room log fire if this is any consolation for inadequacies in other areas.
At about 5ºC outside tonight, I believe it probably is.
DAY 97
WILPENA - BLINMAN
69.77 km
Total Time: 09.00 – 15.30 (6h 30m)
Time on Bike: 5h 11m 54s
Max. Speed: 49.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 13.4 km/h
Blinman claims to be the highest town in South Australia and it sure bloody feels like it.
There aren’t too many easy miles in this part of the world and it is not something I’ll miss when I turn around and head for Adelaide.
The ongoing drama of the Flinderscape is the obvious payoff, but you’d best believe it is well earned.
Today’s ride was an extended gravel bash if the uphill pinch wasn’t enough to keep me interested.
The first 4 km and final 8 km were my bitumen grace for the day, but to be completely fair, the majority of unsealed carriage was not half as bad as it may have been.
The odd rocky patch was the exception although corrugations were generally well represented.
It is planned that the entire Wilpena – Blinman run is to be sealed within 12 months and works are well advanced for 15 km past Wilpena.
The truck convoy over this section was not much for my cause however, showering me with a rich mix of gravel and dust with every pass.
And these were the ones that slowed down.
This section of highway also includes some of the steepest pinches in the Flinders Ranges, as it happens.
I just decided to stop for photo time more often.
It really was the best thing to do and apart from which, I did get some nice shots.
The road crew was generally quite helpful throughout, keeping the truckies alerted to my whereabouts.
I just needed to stay out of their way.
5 hours for just shy of 70 kilometres is tough change for the day but I always get to where I’m going.
I’ve pitched in what passes for the town camping area and $5 for the experience is probably just as tough change.
Not to complain for so few hours out of my existence and a new adventure on the Blinman to Parachilna road awaits tomorrow.
I have at least scored some computer time this evening by the Blinman Hotel’s dining room log fire if this is any consolation for inadequacies in other areas.
At about 5ºC outside tonight, I believe it probably is.
DAY 96 - WILPENA SA
WILPENA SA
DAY 96
St Mary’s Peak went ahead today.
The wind may have had another say but too bad.
2 Swiss and an Aussie headed on up the Outer Pound track towards the highest point in Wilpena Pound.
It worked well to be with a couple of hard-nosed hikers because there was no messing around.
2½ hours to the 1100 metre summit was more than fair travelling, although the cloud shroud at the top was about as rewarding as a broken leg.
And getting one on the way back down was never far out of the equation with slippery, lichen covered rocks constituting the majority of the return path.
My cautious temperament was for once an asset, despite the Swiss burning back down the escarpment like they were on fire.
They at least had the courtesy to wait for me to catch up.
We parted ways at Tanderra Saddle, at which they rolled back down towards camp in the direction from whence we had come and I instead chose the longer but friendlier Inner Track.
The Inner Track cuts downwards and eventually takes a 7 km route across the floor of the Pound, back towards camp at Wilpena Resort.
The descent, as for most of the upper reaches was a hard, rocky bash.
Not extreme or deterringly difficult, but any lapse of concentration here could easily wind up in a hospital bed – or at the very least a nice rest from the action for a few days.
Knees and ankles are most likely to succumb – back injuries and broken bones of any description would also come into play with a half-decent tumble.
All of this lies well outside my area of interest, so once down on the flat and sandy path of the Pound floor, I was much more at peace amongst the beautiful, whispering Cypress Pines and resident wildlife.
My Swiss buddies had previously made their point about the relative “boredom” of hiking the Pound floor but at the end of 7 hours on the track, I know which part I would come back for…..
Prevailing weather for the past 5 days has been, in short, despicable.
Some rain, but for the most, wind has been the dominant factor.
Today was some relief and it looks like whatever has delivered this foul front may finally be breaking up and heading elsewhere.
I have ridden only 170 kilometres in the past week mainly due to taking extra days to visit the Flinders and at it has happened, the weather conditions would have prevented me riding much further anyway.
It all happens for a reason and I know it.
My 3-day Wilpena vacation ends tomorrow as I head further north to the town of Blinman, taking on the first section of a 90-kilometre gravel bash towards Parachilna and eventually a southerly swing around back to Adelaide.
DAY 96
St Mary’s Peak went ahead today.
The wind may have had another say but too bad.
2 Swiss and an Aussie headed on up the Outer Pound track towards the highest point in Wilpena Pound.
It worked well to be with a couple of hard-nosed hikers because there was no messing around.
2½ hours to the 1100 metre summit was more than fair travelling, although the cloud shroud at the top was about as rewarding as a broken leg.
And getting one on the way back down was never far out of the equation with slippery, lichen covered rocks constituting the majority of the return path.
My cautious temperament was for once an asset, despite the Swiss burning back down the escarpment like they were on fire.
They at least had the courtesy to wait for me to catch up.
We parted ways at Tanderra Saddle, at which they rolled back down towards camp in the direction from whence we had come and I instead chose the longer but friendlier Inner Track.
The Inner Track cuts downwards and eventually takes a 7 km route across the floor of the Pound, back towards camp at Wilpena Resort.
The descent, as for most of the upper reaches was a hard, rocky bash.
Not extreme or deterringly difficult, but any lapse of concentration here could easily wind up in a hospital bed – or at the very least a nice rest from the action for a few days.
Knees and ankles are most likely to succumb – back injuries and broken bones of any description would also come into play with a half-decent tumble.
All of this lies well outside my area of interest, so once down on the flat and sandy path of the Pound floor, I was much more at peace amongst the beautiful, whispering Cypress Pines and resident wildlife.
My Swiss buddies had previously made their point about the relative “boredom” of hiking the Pound floor but at the end of 7 hours on the track, I know which part I would come back for…..
Prevailing weather for the past 5 days has been, in short, despicable.
Some rain, but for the most, wind has been the dominant factor.
Today was some relief and it looks like whatever has delivered this foul front may finally be breaking up and heading elsewhere.
I have ridden only 170 kilometres in the past week mainly due to taking extra days to visit the Flinders and at it has happened, the weather conditions would have prevented me riding much further anyway.
It all happens for a reason and I know it.
My 3-day Wilpena vacation ends tomorrow as I head further north to the town of Blinman, taking on the first section of a 90-kilometre gravel bash towards Parachilna and eventually a southerly swing around back to Adelaide.
DAY 95 - WILPENA SA
WILPENA SA
DAY 95
Wilpena Pound is the central attraction of the Wilpena area although the Flinders offer way too much for it to claim itself completely as star of show.
It is a natural pound, measuring approximately 8 km x 17 km – flat and tree covered throughout the floor and ringed around the outside by spectacular peaks that range from rolling to the jagged.
There are numerous ways to experience the Pound.
Most popular is the system of basing oneself in the Wilpena area and taking one or several designated hikes that range from an hour or so, to overnight treks and beyond.
It is fair to conclude though, that most of the Pound can be covered in a long day.
It is also possible to take scenic flights over the Pound and this is undoubtedly a very impressive way to take it all in.
$100 + buys a half-hour flight or $150 can step it up to 1 hour.
Today I set out early to take on one of the more challenging walks to St Mary’s Peak, which is indeed the Pound’s highest vantage point.
Today however, it was just not meant to be.
Weather once again was not conducive to much human activity other than researching weather forecasts on the internet.
There was some rain this morning, but mostly the fearsome, penetrative wind that has ruined most of the past 4 days persisted again today.
As I fronted at the information office at 8.30 am to further my camping tenure, I seemed to have left my money behind in the tent and I just sensed something was on.
Sure enough on my return trip, Kerry and Graham who I had met in Hawker on Friday evening, spotted me and invited me in for morning refreshments.
When I was still present at 1 pm, St Mary’s Peak was way out of the question, as were most of the other respectable walks on offer.
My final choice however, to the oddly named Mt Ohlssen Bagge, was a good one – a 3-hour return with plenty of super views over the Pound on one side and the entire Central Flinders region on the other.
I was engaged at the top by a 20-strong group of European tourists, all wanting me to take their happy snaps.
No problem for the first half-dozen, but I was ready to start taking some cash for the next…..
As for tomorrow – it is the Hawker connection yet again paving my way.
This time I have met up with Marcel, a Swiss-expat who is in progress on a solo expedition of the famous Heysen Trail.
It has taken him the same amount of time to walk to Wilpena from Hawker as it has taken me to ride and I will join he and another for the St Mary’s Peak trek in the morning.
These fellows know how to hike and to hike hard and between us we will make light of the given 8-hour return time.
6 – 7 hours on the track will be plenty and with an expected ease of crapulent weather, a hearty time should be had.
DAY 95
Wilpena Pound is the central attraction of the Wilpena area although the Flinders offer way too much for it to claim itself completely as star of show.
It is a natural pound, measuring approximately 8 km x 17 km – flat and tree covered throughout the floor and ringed around the outside by spectacular peaks that range from rolling to the jagged.
There are numerous ways to experience the Pound.
Most popular is the system of basing oneself in the Wilpena area and taking one or several designated hikes that range from an hour or so, to overnight treks and beyond.
It is fair to conclude though, that most of the Pound can be covered in a long day.
It is also possible to take scenic flights over the Pound and this is undoubtedly a very impressive way to take it all in.
$100 + buys a half-hour flight or $150 can step it up to 1 hour.
Today I set out early to take on one of the more challenging walks to St Mary’s Peak, which is indeed the Pound’s highest vantage point.
Today however, it was just not meant to be.
Weather once again was not conducive to much human activity other than researching weather forecasts on the internet.
There was some rain this morning, but mostly the fearsome, penetrative wind that has ruined most of the past 4 days persisted again today.
As I fronted at the information office at 8.30 am to further my camping tenure, I seemed to have left my money behind in the tent and I just sensed something was on.
Sure enough on my return trip, Kerry and Graham who I had met in Hawker on Friday evening, spotted me and invited me in for morning refreshments.
When I was still present at 1 pm, St Mary’s Peak was way out of the question, as were most of the other respectable walks on offer.
My final choice however, to the oddly named Mt Ohlssen Bagge, was a good one – a 3-hour return with plenty of super views over the Pound on one side and the entire Central Flinders region on the other.
I was engaged at the top by a 20-strong group of European tourists, all wanting me to take their happy snaps.
No problem for the first half-dozen, but I was ready to start taking some cash for the next…..
As for tomorrow – it is the Hawker connection yet again paving my way.
This time I have met up with Marcel, a Swiss-expat who is in progress on a solo expedition of the famous Heysen Trail.
It has taken him the same amount of time to walk to Wilpena from Hawker as it has taken me to ride and I will join he and another for the St Mary’s Peak trek in the morning.
These fellows know how to hike and to hike hard and between us we will make light of the given 8-hour return time.
6 – 7 hours on the track will be plenty and with an expected ease of crapulent weather, a hearty time should be had.
DAY 94 - WILPENA SA
WILPENA SA
DAY 94
RAWNSLEY PARK - WILPENA
28.81 km
Total Time: 09.10 – 12.20 (3h 10m)
Time on Bike: 2h 03m 15s
Max. Speed: 40.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 14 km/h
First things first, and I must indulge an outburst of name dropping to begin this posting.
I’ve just spent this evening hanging out with movie stars – well at least for the purposes of this gossip column I have.
Bryan Brown and Rachel Griffiths were in person at Wilpena Pound Resort tonight.
A movie is presently being shot on location at a station about 7 kilometres north of Rawnsley Park.
Bryan Brown is one of the most famous Aussie actors of the past 30 years and he and his wife Rachel Ward are at the helm in this film.
It has been tight lipped about who else may or may not be in it, so I can reveal here and now that Rachel Griffiths is a definite starter.
I will probably be hanging about tomorrow as well, so watch this space for more….
Who needs movie stars anyway when I’m on my own path to notoriety?
I did a photo shoot and interview with a pair of Italian photo-journos today.
Nothing planned about it – just some foreign journalists travelling through Outback Australia and thought I may be quite worthy of a small piece.
It was a welcome respite from my misery at the time.
A foul, foul wind with and angry, angry soul has been howling in from the west for the past 48 hours and there was no saving my sorry existence from its wrath this morning.
I’d had enough and together with the relentless uphill grind of the Central Flinders, turning around and heading back was not such a remote idea.
Pitiful I know, but hitting the wall is just something you have to do sometimes.
And just at the height of my fug is often when things just seem to swing around for the better.
Today was no different, as I had actually pulled in to sign into the Flinders Ranges National Park and dispense with my entry fee.
The touring SUV then pulled in right alongside and out popped Romy and Antonio with cameras and notebooks poised in my direction and this is how it happened.
If this wasn’t enough to spur me on, the run into Wilpena suddenly took off downhill and a booming tailwind to boot.
And if this wasn’t enough again, a pair of dear motherly passing travellers rightly took pity on my final 4 km of headwind into Wilpena and generously served me up with sandwiches and soup on arrival.
Phew.
That was some day alright.
There was also a short 2-hour hike involved this afternoon but I think the real hiking must wait until tomorrow and just a little more on the real deal of what this area of Wilpena is all about.
DAY 94
RAWNSLEY PARK - WILPENA
28.81 km
Total Time: 09.10 – 12.20 (3h 10m)
Time on Bike: 2h 03m 15s
Max. Speed: 40.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 14 km/h
First things first, and I must indulge an outburst of name dropping to begin this posting.
I’ve just spent this evening hanging out with movie stars – well at least for the purposes of this gossip column I have.
Bryan Brown and Rachel Griffiths were in person at Wilpena Pound Resort tonight.
A movie is presently being shot on location at a station about 7 kilometres north of Rawnsley Park.
Bryan Brown is one of the most famous Aussie actors of the past 30 years and he and his wife Rachel Ward are at the helm in this film.
It has been tight lipped about who else may or may not be in it, so I can reveal here and now that Rachel Griffiths is a definite starter.
I will probably be hanging about tomorrow as well, so watch this space for more….
Who needs movie stars anyway when I’m on my own path to notoriety?
I did a photo shoot and interview with a pair of Italian photo-journos today.
Nothing planned about it – just some foreign journalists travelling through Outback Australia and thought I may be quite worthy of a small piece.
It was a welcome respite from my misery at the time.
A foul, foul wind with and angry, angry soul has been howling in from the west for the past 48 hours and there was no saving my sorry existence from its wrath this morning.
I’d had enough and together with the relentless uphill grind of the Central Flinders, turning around and heading back was not such a remote idea.
Pitiful I know, but hitting the wall is just something you have to do sometimes.
And just at the height of my fug is often when things just seem to swing around for the better.
Today was no different, as I had actually pulled in to sign into the Flinders Ranges National Park and dispense with my entry fee.
The touring SUV then pulled in right alongside and out popped Romy and Antonio with cameras and notebooks poised in my direction and this is how it happened.
If this wasn’t enough to spur me on, the run into Wilpena suddenly took off downhill and a booming tailwind to boot.
And if this wasn’t enough again, a pair of dear motherly passing travellers rightly took pity on my final 4 km of headwind into Wilpena and generously served me up with sandwiches and soup on arrival.
Phew.
That was some day alright.
There was also a short 2-hour hike involved this afternoon but I think the real hiking must wait until tomorrow and just a little more on the real deal of what this area of Wilpena is all about.
DAY 93 - RAWNSLEY PARK STATION SA
RAWNSLEY PARK STATION SA
DAY 93
The Flinders are basically in 3 sections.
Southern Flinders run between Crystal Brook in the south and Quorn in the north.
Central Flinders covers all of the area I am currently in and will pass through all of this week.
Northern Flinders are another level up again, including the towns of Leigh Creek and Copley.
Arkaroola Station is the main visitor drawcard along this route and involves a return 400 kilometre gravel bash from most directions.
The highly regarded Iga Warta cultural centre also must be included on this agenda.
As tempting and adventurous an Arkaroola mission may be, my interest really only extends to bumming a ride with somebody who might be travelling in this direction.
Disinterest isn’t motivating me here – it’s just that getting there by bike really is the business and I am thinking this increasingly unlikely.
Therefore, I feel as though my Flinders route will take care of itself from here.
Wilpena, Blinman, Parachilna and Hawker will complete the circuit and probably by weeks’ end.
Today amounted to a day off and I put the rest time to good toil by climbing nearby Rawnsley Bluff to the very top.
It was a 12 kilometre, 5-hour return hike and quite a steep haul in sections – the main disappointment once again was a cold and ugly wind – the further the climb unfortunately, the stronger the wind.
It just wasn’t tenable to hang about at the top for long, despite the dramatic panorama.
Worse still was another camera failure, which strategically timed itself until I reached the very summit of the Bluff.
The usual round of blasphemy wasn’t about to change anything and I must accept these problems are stemming from a battery charger now past its use-by.
It has taken around 2 months to narrow it down, but at least have eliminated the camera and the batteries themselves as culprits.
I found out the hard way today so I probably must limp through to Adelaide now and summon as much quality time between 8 batteries as possible.
I leave for the town of Wilpena tomorrow.
DAY 93
The Flinders are basically in 3 sections.
Southern Flinders run between Crystal Brook in the south and Quorn in the north.
Central Flinders covers all of the area I am currently in and will pass through all of this week.
Northern Flinders are another level up again, including the towns of Leigh Creek and Copley.
Arkaroola Station is the main visitor drawcard along this route and involves a return 400 kilometre gravel bash from most directions.
The highly regarded Iga Warta cultural centre also must be included on this agenda.
As tempting and adventurous an Arkaroola mission may be, my interest really only extends to bumming a ride with somebody who might be travelling in this direction.
Disinterest isn’t motivating me here – it’s just that getting there by bike really is the business and I am thinking this increasingly unlikely.
Therefore, I feel as though my Flinders route will take care of itself from here.
Wilpena, Blinman, Parachilna and Hawker will complete the circuit and probably by weeks’ end.
Today amounted to a day off and I put the rest time to good toil by climbing nearby Rawnsley Bluff to the very top.
It was a 12 kilometre, 5-hour return hike and quite a steep haul in sections – the main disappointment once again was a cold and ugly wind – the further the climb unfortunately, the stronger the wind.
It just wasn’t tenable to hang about at the top for long, despite the dramatic panorama.
Worse still was another camera failure, which strategically timed itself until I reached the very summit of the Bluff.
The usual round of blasphemy wasn’t about to change anything and I must accept these problems are stemming from a battery charger now past its use-by.
It has taken around 2 months to narrow it down, but at least have eliminated the camera and the batteries themselves as culprits.
I found out the hard way today so I probably must limp through to Adelaide now and summon as much quality time between 8 batteries as possible.
I leave for the town of Wilpena tomorrow.
DAY 92 - RAWNSLEY PARK STATION SA
RAWNSLEY PARK STATION SA
DAY 92
HAWKER – RAWNSLEY PARK
42.35 km
Total Time: 10.30 – 15.00 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike: 3h 02m 57s
Max. Speed: 41.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 13.9 km/h
It’s hard work for every mile in this part of the world.
3 hours for 40 kilometres is fair change.
Hard, slow going, but the surroundings are superlative.
North of the Southern Flinders is completely different territory.
You know you’re in the outback when all you can hear is the ringing in your ears.
20 years of playing drums in rock bands can claim responsibility for this, but it is another world here.
Rawnsley Park Station lies around 35 km north of Hawker and 20 km south of Wilpena and it is a wonderful place to absorb the Flinders grandeur.
I’ll be staying over the weekend and climbing a 5-hour return hike Rawnsley Bluff tomorrow.
With an early start not so much a priority, things just happen when they do.
And the weather is holding – sunny, mild days on the end of cold, clear nights.
It doesn’t get any better.
The Flinders Charter from here is basically mine to write and this is what I will do.
DAY 92
HAWKER – RAWNSLEY PARK
42.35 km
Total Time: 10.30 – 15.00 (4h 30m)
Time on Bike: 3h 02m 57s
Max. Speed: 41.8 km/h
Av. Speed: 13.9 km/h
It’s hard work for every mile in this part of the world.
3 hours for 40 kilometres is fair change.
Hard, slow going, but the surroundings are superlative.
North of the Southern Flinders is completely different territory.
You know you’re in the outback when all you can hear is the ringing in your ears.
20 years of playing drums in rock bands can claim responsibility for this, but it is another world here.
Rawnsley Park Station lies around 35 km north of Hawker and 20 km south of Wilpena and it is a wonderful place to absorb the Flinders grandeur.
I’ll be staying over the weekend and climbing a 5-hour return hike Rawnsley Bluff tomorrow.
With an early start not so much a priority, things just happen when they do.
And the weather is holding – sunny, mild days on the end of cold, clear nights.
It doesn’t get any better.
The Flinders Charter from here is basically mine to write and this is what I will do.
DAY 91 - HAWKER SA
HAWKER SA
DAY 91
QUORN - HAWKER
75.54 km
Total Time: 09.15 – 16.25 (7h 10m)
Time on Bike: 4h 46m 05s
Max. Speed: 33.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.8 km/h
Hard work for 75 km today although this is the Flinders, not just any old roll of dirt.
In fact, the first 30 km out of Quorn were a treat – I am only taking issue with the final 40.
Not much flat stuff, but I guess that’s life.
Hawker sells itself as “Gateway to the Flinders” and it pretty much is.
No matter what your agenda, you basically have to transit through it at some point.
I will be passing through twice on my chosen route, but it’s what happens beyond this point that is still wide open to will and whim.
I’m next favouring a short-haul to Rawnsley Park Station in lieu of a longer haul north to Parachilna.
Rawnsley is a mere 35 kilometres along the way and is looking nice for at least tomorrow evening.
For now I am sticking to the main roads and this is probably not the ideal means to really consume the Flinders, so I’ll do best to take it all as entrée rather than expect it to fill me up as a main meal.
Like the Nullabor, it is probably going to be here next year and the year after that, so there is no burning need to overcook the schedule.
I am finding it all quite inspirational at this stage anyway, so this is what really should count.
What doesn’t get done this time can in theory be left to next but of course it is equally valid to seize the moment.
No matter, I have good feelings that it will all work out.
Each day is a brand new adventure from here.
DAY 91
QUORN - HAWKER
75.54 km
Total Time: 09.15 – 16.25 (7h 10m)
Time on Bike: 4h 46m 05s
Max. Speed: 33.6 km/h
Av. Speed: 15.8 km/h
Hard work for 75 km today although this is the Flinders, not just any old roll of dirt.
In fact, the first 30 km out of Quorn were a treat – I am only taking issue with the final 40.
Not much flat stuff, but I guess that’s life.
Hawker sells itself as “Gateway to the Flinders” and it pretty much is.
No matter what your agenda, you basically have to transit through it at some point.
I will be passing through twice on my chosen route, but it’s what happens beyond this point that is still wide open to will and whim.
I’m next favouring a short-haul to Rawnsley Park Station in lieu of a longer haul north to Parachilna.
Rawnsley is a mere 35 kilometres along the way and is looking nice for at least tomorrow evening.
For now I am sticking to the main roads and this is probably not the ideal means to really consume the Flinders, so I’ll do best to take it all as entrée rather than expect it to fill me up as a main meal.
Like the Nullabor, it is probably going to be here next year and the year after that, so there is no burning need to overcook the schedule.
I am finding it all quite inspirational at this stage anyway, so this is what really should count.
What doesn’t get done this time can in theory be left to next but of course it is equally valid to seize the moment.
No matter, I have good feelings that it will all work out.
Each day is a brand new adventure from here.
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